All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.
Many thanks for your kind support.
Model Boats Website Team
January 2019: 13 people December 2018: 6 people November 2018: 11 people October 2018: 9 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 20 people
I'm new to this and was told by the guy who gave me the motor that this was the thing to do. He says the coil still provides cooling and says the warm water coming from the stern is all the evidence needed. We will see if he is right. Steve
Bit more info. The donor has come back with some basic instructions for the ESC but I already have more than that from my searches. He also lent me a program 'Card' which is very easy to use and seems to confirm that I have a very basic ESC. The card has 12 levels of settings on the instructions but the ESC only recognises 4 items and then within each item does not have all the setting levels. Have set it best I can for now but will go find me a better ESC later. Steve
Been reading some old threads with plenty of reference to lubrication but only one mention of what to lubricate with (mix of engine oil and graphite powder). I have just fitted a replacement propshaft (M4) to my Huntsman 31 and fitted it with an oiler tube. So question is what to oil/grease it with? Steve
You misunderstood me Doug. Yes, it is in forward and reverse but will not go from forward straight into reverse. you have to come back to centre, go into reverse (nothing happens), back to centre then into reverse. I found another set of instructions that described this...see pic. Not sure I understand what they mean by 'click'. Steve Edit to add...I was given the motor and ESC just before christmas and did not know then that I would need to program it. Since knowing the guy has been on leave so I can't ask him.
Wired it all up again and confirmed you are right Doug it is in the 'brake' mode. However in the instructions sent me by DG there is no option for turning it off. also I have found similar instructions for others that look the same from the pictures and they have the same options. So, looks like I'm stuck with it. Steve
You are correct the coils goes over the body of the outrunner motor but does not touch. it was initially formed around a metal tube but when mounted on the motor mount there is a 'cereal packet cardboard' thickness of clearance around the body of the motor. Steve
Thanks for the reply. I think I did all of those steps. Will have another go in a couple of days. For now the white wine and beeping motor will not be a good combination. 'Merry' Christmas and all that. Steve
I now have the larger prop shaft installed. Waiting for the glue to set so I can align and mount the motor. I need to fit a water pickup for cooling the motor and ESC. Are there any rules/tips on where it should be positioned? My first though was anywhere facing forwards as it will only really need cooling when running at speed. Any thoughts. Next is the paint. I'm trying to match the colours which were a marine 'Toplac' paint but at £25 for the smallest can x 3 colours I need a different route. Paint shops failed to find a match so am going to an automotive paint supplier who assure me they can match anything. So now to the question...what type of paint do I go for, acrylic, cellulose, water based etc.? Steve
Worked through the instructions and it made beeping and squawking noises in what seemed the right places but still no reverse. The increase in revs does now cover the whole of the stick travel above the mid point so I has changed something. Lost the will to live after 2 hours so went and worked on something else. Steve
Right I'm in a similar position. Plugged it all in an just got beeping noises. After some fiddling it all fired up. But, somehow I have programmed it but don't know with what info. The motor will run but not both ways. Is off at the mid position and is at full chat with less than half lever travel. The ESC is a Top Edge SC060B and I have been unable to find any instructions. So, what can be programmed in? How do I get it back into programming mode? The instructions earlier in this thread mention a 'brake mode' but give no indication what this is? Help
Found some info that said 16foot was the most common length. 22' is available but the price goes up considerably. 16' will be fine by me as that is half the length of the actual boat so 16" planks on the model. Having trouble finding planks and sheet in the same wood and thickness. I need some sheet for the king planks etc. Have found Maple and Lime so now need to know which comes closest to Teak? Steve
I don't want to build the deck up too much so have been looking at 0.5mm thick planks. Scale wise they need to be 5mm wide. And as Doug said 10:1 plank/gap so I'm planning to use 0.5mm black plasticard as the caulking. On a full size cabin cruiser what would be the normal length of a plank? I've been on Google to see if I can find any info but the best I found was an advert for planks that were 1220 long which seems rather short to my mind. Steve
I found the pencil did not give enough definition to the plank join. A fine fibre tip pen produced a good line but the ink still tried to chase the grain of the wood. I managed to smudge a couple of lines before they had dried. But finally, the grain of the plywood looked 'wrong' on the planks which would not be too bad down the side of the cabin but the foredeck planks will have a quite significant curve and a large surface area to see how 'wrong' the grain is. I have a wallpaper steamer somewhere in the garage so modifying that will be the next job. Steve
Right ho. Change of plans. Tried some experiments with drawing on my deck planking and screwed it up after only 8 planks worth. I also tried just using pencil but the curved planks are just impossible to draw. So...what type of strip wood is best to replicate a weathered teak look? Where to buy it? How do I glue it to birch ply? What gap should I use for 5mm wide planks? How do you secure the bent planks whilst the glue dries? Do I need to steam the planks? Should be enough questions for now, Steve
Where is the rudder hinged? In some pictures I've looked at it appears to come up through a narrow section of rear deck. If so then hide a drum on the rudder post below that deck and wind control strings around it and routed to another drum on the servo. Steve
Right, just been given some nice bits. Brushless outrunner FUSION 3535/05 1500kv ESC Top Edge 60A water cooled SC060B Plus a coupling. So now to go shopping. Which make of Lipo3 and from where? What type and size of brass prop? Where to buy silicon wires and the fancy gold terminals? Steve
But how do you know what shape to make the frames if you have no plans? You would have more success with a foam/plaster 'buck' where you can add and subtract until the hull shape looks like the photos. At that point you could then continue into GF or dissect the buck to get the frame shapes.