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If there is nothing left to grip in the holes I would next try a left handed drill. The vibration, heat and left hand direction may unscrew the bolt. Which ever direction drill you use the hole in the bolt head will keep it centred. Start with a smaller size and drill deep enough to be just below the head. Go up a size and drill again but don't get to close to the bolt thread diameter. Your ideal situation will be that as you get close the head will snap off. You could drill close then drive a screwdriver bit in and use that to snap the head off. Steve
before resorting to milling/drilling I would get out my box of assorted screwdriver bits. In there I have an assortment of metric hex, imperial hex, spline, torgues, etc. Find something that is too large and (gently) hammer it into the bolt head. You could even grind an oversize down to fit which would give a sharper edge to the hex which will help it grip. Steve
You don't have to think too hard about the keel position at this time as the bolt does not need to be central to the length of the keel. Just choose a rough position and do your hole in the hull. Later when you know more about how much weight you need and where it needs to be positioned you just make the keel to suit the rod position. Steve
Bit the bullet and bought the kit from Deans Marine. Still got no space to build it. I won't be able to build it as fast as the original which was ordered in March 1915, she was launched May 22nd and commissioned in June.
I didn't know I was building a canoe for a small child but that's how it's come out. Now needs strong points for the keel mount, a step for the mast and reinforcement for chain plates etc. I will then glass fibre the inside before making some deck beams.
Nice work but in my case the planks are all curved and herringbone jointed so far more complicated than I am prepared to put into this model. It is going to be hard enough just trying to draw it. Steve
Pretty boat that. Probably know as much about motors as you do but, What may make a difference is what battery you intend to use, Style of boat does not make for rushing about the pond so a 12v lead acid battery would probably be in order in which case the 12v nominal motor would suit. If you plan to use Nicad 7.2v battery then the other motor is more suited. waits to be shot down or should that be scuttled. Steve
Will need to put this on hold for a bit as I have just discovered a guy working in the next industrial unit to mine is into boating and has offered to give me a motor and ESC that he has 'outgrown'. In the mean time I need to replace the propshaft as it is not man enough plus a metal U/J. Bit of hacking required.
Again, as not wanting to nick someone else's thread. Huntsman 31 currently has a geared (belt) brushed motor which was probably quite a good spec. many years ago. I don't remember how quick it was but having watched brushless boats running this morning in Southsea I have decided now is the time for change before I start painting. I've been reading various threads and gleaned some info but it is still a minefield. Whilst this boat (original) is twin screw I am not yet ready to go that far so will stay single screw. A thread suggested 3639 -1100KV which is fine as a spec. but there are a zillion different makes and models for that spec. Cornwall models seem to offer 6 or 8 so I am looking for more specific advise for make and model of each piece of the power system...motor, ESC, battery, charger. I'm not going to say 'money no object' just that I don't 'need' to buy bottom spec. I suspect there will be as many different suggestions as 'Cornwall' have motor makes but something good will come out of it. Many thanks Steve
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272480053426 They sell it in a number of sizes. Worked well but despite my calculations and buying extra I did not have quite enough. Beginning to wonder if the volume figure they advertise is a little short. I've thrown the pots away now so can't measure it. Held up well casting 6.5Kg of lead. I even did it twice because my first pore was a little slow so the finish keel was not pretty so I cut it up and did it again. Steve
Yes you could but to make the template you would have to draw out all the planking so you may as well do it once on the deck. It would be no easier doing it on the template. The second issue would be needing to use card for the template then run the risk of the ink marking running under the template edge.
Yes coming to the same conclusion on a template rather than calipers because the planks follow the hull curve along the side of the cabin but do not follow around the bow. I'll make a template of the side and see if I can move that forwards and achieve the required result. I think I may also cheat a little and have slightly wider planks than scale and hope there arn't too many 'rivet counters' (Land Rover expression) out there.