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>> Home > Members > steve-d
Registered
6th Oct 2018
Last Online
18th Nov 2018
steve-d

Member Stats
Stats
Member No. 5216
Registered 6th Oct 2018
Last Online 18th Nov 2018
City Portsmouth
Country United Kingdom
Boats in Harbour 1
Sailing Locations 0
Forum Posts 34
Photos Posted 36
Likes Received 40
Likes Given 3
48 Total Posts
Sailing Locations
No Sailing Locations
Harbour
Maree
Type: Other
Lieutenant
Ranks Points
Fleet Admiral 1000
Admiral 800
Captain 600
Commander 400
Lieutenant 200
Sub-Lieutenant 100
Chief Petty Officer 50
Petty Officer 25
Seaman 10
Apprentice 2
Recruit 0
116 points away from Commander!
Points
Activity Worth Awarded
Boats in Harbour 8 8
Forum Thread 5 30
Forum Post 2 68
Event 8 0
Photo Gallery 10 0
Photos Response 3 0
Video Post 15 0
Video Response 3 0
Build Blog 20 40
Blog Post 5 40
Blog Response 3 15
Sailor 8 0
Guestbook Post 8 0
Liked Posts 1 3
Received Likes 2 80
284 Total Points
Good Conduct Medal
This member donated!
United Kingdom
Recent Posts
All hooked up, nowt happens... by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 21 hours ago
Before Doug shouts at you. Click on the PDF, It opens as if it a photo, top left click on download, go find it in your downloads. Steve

Metal sanding plates by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
This thread seems to be missing a link😊 Steve

Allen Screw Removal by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
If there is nothing left to grip in the holes I would next try a left handed drill. The vibration, heat and left hand direction may unscrew the bolt. Which ever direction drill you use the hole in the bolt head will keep it centred. Start with a smaller size and drill deep enough to be just below the head. Go up a size and drill again but don't get to close to the bolt thread diameter. Your ideal situation will be that as you get close the head will snap off. You could drill close then drive a screwdriver bit in and use that to snap the head off. Steve

Allen Screw Removal by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
before resorting to milling/drilling I would get out my box of assorted screwdriver bits. In there I have an assortment of metric hex, imperial hex, spline, torgues, etc. Find something that is too large and (gently) hammer it into the bolt head. You could even grind an oversize down to fit which would give a sharper edge to the hex which will help it grip. Steve

Brixham trawler IBEX by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
You don't have to think too hard about the keel position at this time as the bolt does not need to be central to the length of the keel. Just choose a rough position and do your hole in the hull. Later when you know more about how much weight you need and where it needs to be positioned you just make the keel to suit the rod position. Steve

HMS M.33 by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
I only live a handful of miles away and have a dockyard ticket that runs out at the end of the year so have already planned to go down next week and take a ton of pictures.

HMS M.33 by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
I will do a blog but for now the build will have to wait until I have space. With an almost six foot long boat on the bench there is no space. Steve

HMS M.33 by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
That was quick. Kit M.33 arrived just before lunch today. Got some bit counting to do.

HMS M.33 by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
That's neat all the plastic tray compartments for the fittings.

HMS M.33 by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
Bit the bullet and bought the kit from Deans Marine. Still got no space to build it. I won't be able to build it as fast as the original which was ordered in March 1915, she was launched May 22nd and commissioned in June.

Hull off the build jig by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
It won't be my kids (37 & 40) but I do have grand kids that would fit. Thanks for the heads up on the deck beams...good call.

Hull off the build jig by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
I didn't know I was building a canoe for a small child but that's how it's come out. Now needs strong points for the keel mount, a step for the mast and reinforcement for chain plates etc. I will then glass fibre the inside before making some deck beams.

Sail cloth by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
Where did you source the material?

Pretend deck planking by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 16 days ago
Nice work but in my case the planks are all curved and herringbone jointed so far more complicated than I am prepared to put into this model. It is going to be hard enough just trying to draw it. Steve

Tarpon hardware help by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 16 days ago
Pretty boat that. Probably know as much about motors as you do but, What may make a difference is what battery you intend to use, Style of boat does not make for rushing about the pond so a 12v lead acid battery would probably be in order in which case the 12v nominal motor would suit. If you plan to use Nicad 7.2v battery then the other motor is more suited. waits to be shot down or should that be scuttled. Steve

Brushless motors (again) by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
Will need to put this on hold for a bit as I have just discovered a guy working in the next industrial unit to mine is into boating and has offered to give me a motor and ESC that he has 'outgrown'. In the mean time I need to replace the propshaft as it is not man enough plus a metal U/J. Bit of hacking required.

Second hull skin on by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Just fitted the second skin on the hull

Brushless motors (again) by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 20 days ago
Boat was designed for 5cc = .32 = 640W = 58A Bought the watt meter. Both the motors mentioned above are back order.

Brushless motors (again) by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 20 days ago
Any specific reason you refer to a 'car' ESC? What size (dia.) shaft should I use? Will I need to cool that motor? Cheers Steve

just need cable (wire)... by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 21 days ago
https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Thinwall_cable_cut_to_le... All the cables are listed with their amps rating so just go down the list until you find what you need. If you need over 100A then the battery cables would be better as they have far more strands. https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Extra_Flexible_PVC_Cable... Steve

Who's at the helm? by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 21 days ago
Just bought this one which as you say may be OK for modification. All I need is someone holding the wheel. A bit of 'arm breakage' may be required.

HMS M.33 by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 21 days ago
Does anyone have info on plans or kits for this WW1 Monitor. Have an urge to build her despite having too many other things to do. Thanks Steve

Brushless motors (again) by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 21 days ago
Again, as not wanting to nick someone else's thread. Huntsman 31 currently has a geared (belt) brushed motor which was probably quite a good spec. many years ago. I don't remember how quick it was but having watched brushless boats running this morning in Southsea I have decided now is the time for change before I start painting. I've been reading various threads and gleaned some info but it is still a minefield. Whilst this boat (original) is twin screw I am not yet ready to go that far so will stay single screw. A thread suggested 3639 -1100KV which is fine as a spec. but there are a zillion different makes and models for that spec. Cornwall models seem to offer 6 or 8 so I am looking for more specific advise for make and model of each piece of the power system...motor, ESC, battery, charger. I'm not going to say 'money no object' just that I don't 'need' to buy bottom spec. I suspect there will be as many different suggestions as 'Cornwall' have motor makes but something good will come out of it. Many thanks Steve

Who's at the helm? by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 21 days ago
I need a helmsman for my Huntsman 31 in 1:12 scale. All I'm finding is dolls house dolls or gnarley fishermen in sou'westers. Need a man or woman in casual cloths. Any thoughts? thanks Steve

SAND FALCON by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
Can't help on the plans but interested to know why someone in New Zealand would be interested in the Sand Falcon (currently off Clacton-on-Sea heading for London) Steve

Videos by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
Don't have a direct answer but would suggest you check the instructions and find the max card size you can use. A 64 card would pretty much cover anything you wanted to do and they are not expensive.

Maree III sharpie 10 Rater by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 24 days ago
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272480053426 They sell it in a number of sizes. Worked well but despite my calculations and buying extra I did not have quite enough. Beginning to wonder if the volume figure they advertise is a little short. I've thrown the pots away now so can't measure it. Held up well casting 6.5Kg of lead. I even did it twice because my first pore was a little slow so the finish keel was not pretty so I cut it up and did it again. Steve

Painting by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 25 days ago
Yes you could but to make the template you would have to draw out all the planking so you may as well do it once on the deck. It would be no easier doing it on the template. The second issue would be needing to use card for the template then run the risk of the ink marking running under the template edge.

Painting by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 26 days ago
Yes coming to the same conclusion on a template rather than calipers because the planks follow the hull curve along the side of the cabin but do not follow around the bow. I'll make a template of the side and see if I can move that forwards and achieve the required result. I think I may also cheat a little and have slightly wider planks than scale and hope there arn't too many 'rivet counters' (Land Rover expression) out there.

Maree III sharpie 10 Rater by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 26 days ago
Chines and first skin in place.