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Hi Mike, I did buy the laser cut windows for my 34" fire boat from a seller on eBay back in 2011 (2nd may 2011) to be precise, they do, in my opinion, add a great deal to the overall look of the model. I've checked back on my records and can only find the price I paid (£15:50p) and the seller (DW BAKER DG) this was his eBay seller signature, I've looked but can't find anything relating to this particular seller now. Can only assume he has ceased trading. Sorry I can't be of anymore help. Norman.
Hi Martin, glad Doug sorted your spektrum, the problem is we do live in a different world now, back in the 70s 80s and 90s a model rc aircraft was something small boys and even big boys would be in wonder of because you had to spend a lot of time effort,money,and patience to have one. However that is not the case now, I can go to Tesco just now and for very little money (£35ish) walk out of the door with a small 4 channel 2.4GHz rc plane and go attempt to fly it in my local park. Now there lies the problem model rc aircraft are no longer things old men like us would spend months making then going to our club fields to fly. Let's go one step further, let's go to any good model shop and buy, ready to fly, what is described on the box as a "Park flyer" now this Park flyer is capable of over 100mph coming out of a reversal manoeuvre in straight and level flight. Now we on here would never fly this model in a public place, but a lot of people will and do. I used to be an active member of SMAE way back but am no longer because I'm lucky enough to have access to a totally private field. Norman.
Martin its only to prove that your tx is all working and it's just the switch that isn't working, if when you bridge the switch terminals and your tx goes into bind mode, assuming your receiver is ON and adjacent to you, both will bind together and you can remove your temp bridge but DONT turn your tx off until you've removed your bind plug from your receiver. Then you can turn everything off and on as much as you like because the binding process is complete. Now if this works and I hope it does you will need to replace that switch otherwise you'll have to do this all again if for any reason you lose bind, which can happen from time to time, although most of my models have been bound for years and never lost bind tx to rx. Norman
Good morning all, Martin I've just removed the back from my dx5e and as I thought the switch in question is just a dead simple on/off switch. If it is indeed faulty it will not enable your tx to go into bind mode, so to eliminate it from the equation ( I've just done this with mine) and all was well. Remove your six small Philip head screws to open your tx, you won't have to separate the two halves completely just enough to gain access to the offending switch. Now you should see one brown wire and one red wire going to the switch, with a small piece of wire just breach the two together making a temporary by pass to the switch then turn your tx to ON, at this point all your lights (one red and four green) hopefully will illuminate and the buzer will be a different tone (or as Brasil would say " listen you stupid people it's one decibel higher ". Hopefully this will work and you are in business all you need to do is replace the switch because you've proved it's faulty (not Basil). Fingers X Martin. Norman.
So it's deffo' your tx that has a problem, I would be tempted, as you've nothing to lose (no guarantee now), to remove the back and take a look at your trainer switch, sounds like it's just that switch is possibly inoperative, try replacing it perhaps, I think it's simply an on off switch switching different circuits on your board. I'll remove the back from my old dx5 tomorrow Martin and take a look inside. Let you know in the morning Martin. Norman
One more thing Martin, not sure it's been mentioned previously, your transmitter must be in the off position before you flick the trainer switch with your index finger top left of your transmitter. So.........receiver on, (rapid flashing led in receiver) Then with your index finger flick and hold you trainer switch on your transmitter then turn power on your transmitter, all lights on the front will flash and your receiver led should then go to solid. Bind complete, remove bind plug from receiver off you go. Norman.
Sorry Marin, that tx is undoubtably dsmX👌, so with that in mind I think your next step would be to.............count out aloud to three, then if your transmitter has still not bound with your receiver............beat the living daylights out of them both with a big stick😁. Seriously Martin I can't understand why you've had no success, all the forgoing advice has been spot on and correct. I did purchase an orange receiver recently off eBay that refused to bind, I simply returned it,at a cost of one pound postage and received a replacement the next day which worked fine.
I've been using Spektrum now for 10 years, never a minuets problem, granted I only use the budget "orange" receivers on my boats but remember your transmitters protocol HAS to be dsmX and NOT just dsm2 otherwise you may experience binding problems. I am using spektrum to fly my 1/4 scale piper J3 cub and its faultless but I always use matching spektrum receivers in planes, not because I don't trust the orange just because when you've got over £1000 worth of plane in the sky it's worth having the added security. Martin are you sure your dx5s protocol is dsmX?. Norman.
Hi Martin, thanks for your reply, yes we have a great steam loco engineering club next to the model boat club I attend, so intend taking the old Gannet along one day to let them have a look and hopefully one of the guys will be able to fabricate a new connecting rod. Norman.
Martin you do have a way with words, I like it!, yes, and steam locomotives run on at least ten times the pressure of a steam driven boat. Happy memory's of the old New Brighton lake, my nan and mum would take me over from Liverpool on the ferry, which in those days went to New Brighton, with my pride and joy under my arm, my "victory models fire boat" remember the one? all plastic with twin brass screws driven by a mighty midget motor. The old lake was demolished approx' 10 to 15 years ago and the new one constructed 30 yards further up. I was there as demolition was going on and the old lake was a large heap of concrete and rubble fenced off to the public. Do you know to this day I so so regret not squeezing through the fence and taking a hand size piece of the concrete side wall, the concrete wall I would have lent over 1000 times as a young boy of seven to launch my boats.
Coronation Park in Crosby, a very very popular venue for all types of model boats back in the 50s and before, hosted tethered hydroplane racing (as Martin has just stated) that was a crowd puller and the old guys in those days had some balls to run them, as I remember there was a bad accident late 50s and it was all over for them. Still going as a model boat club to this day although re-formed several years ago. Martin, yes I will put some pics up as soon as my grandchildren show me how to🤔, you see I may be able to bring a 1950s boat into the 21st century but that doesn't mean I can use a computer as I should😉. Norman. Small foot note guys, steam also is discouraged if not banned by some model boat clubs now because of the pressurised boiler risk, yes I know health and safety gone mad.
Hi Les, funny we've come full circle, I started my model sailing at newsham park back in the late 50s and was there at the beginning of "The Liverpool model POWER boat club back in 1964, when I was 14 years old. Notice the power was omitted from the clubs name approx' 15 years ago. In 1964 i had just completed my first aerokits sea scout complet with an ED seagull 1cc diesel, this club was where I met most of my mentors and founder members of the club, Jimmy Wilson, Cliff'Broadbent, Monty, Oscar Poulson etc etc all now sadly gone to that big lake in the sky where anything goes. I'm in southport now and do go back to newsham from time to time. Thank you for that bit of very interesting info'. The afore mentioned sea scout has just undergone a major re-fit after 55 years, the 1cc diesel has been replaced with a 3940 kv brushless and 60 esc running on 11.1 lipo, yes I know all to big for a little 24inch sea scout, but as the yanks would say " there ain't no substitute for C.C. Boy", you don't have to use it but nice to have. Martin you mentioned the old glue used in those days, the sea scout I made was glued using "caskomite" (can't remember the correct spelling) the boat is still 100% waterproof with no skin separation at all, I do not intend tarting the boat up at all, prefer to keep it the way a 14 year old boy (me) had made it apart from bringing the running gear up to 21st century and something that can be used at my local lakes. Norman.
May I just say how heart warming it is to have had so much positive response to my rant, I truly did not expect at the time to trigger so much support. I don't think we have had one negative post, as I say it's nice to know that we all share an affinity in the love of ALL aspects of model boating, not least the fast disappearing world of internal combustion. I do now intend keeping all of my vintage collection of engines and boats, if only to simply look at from time to time,all thanks to you guys, especially Martin for his straight forward way of speaking, it defiantly made me think again. Thanks guys👍. Norman.
Hi you guys, Your car creations sound fantastic Martin. Like most of us oldies on here I've used all the radio makes over the years, I used to fly on 27 before it went to 35, so how long ago was that?. The way forward now,especially with boats, and medium sized aircraft is to use the like of spectrum dx6i which even the old model holds up to 10 models (the new one holds 250 models😳). I have two transmitters one for boats and one for planes, I only have two because of the boats really need a throttle return spring on the left stick. Then,as Haverlock mentioned, just buy orange rx receivers @ £9 each for individual boats or models, although I do us a more expensive orange receiver for the planes, but they only work out to £20 / £30. Happy days. Norman.
Not sure about the 6v in your winch Martin all I can say is one of my many many models (boats planes and cars) is a one meter racing class yacht, now I can't remember for the life of me which winch servo I fitted, it was 15 years ago. I do not race the yacht now just pootle about the lake and all I have ever used is four Duracell AA 4.8v batteries (other makes are available) in the boat serving the receiver the winch and rudder, the winch works fine, ok in strong winds if tacking X wind the sails may not draw in quickly but I normally wait until I'm turning and the boat is momentarily into wind before winching in (hope that makes sense). I'm sure the serious racing boys will be able to explain further. I can remember using a dedicated 4.8v battery serving my retract servo in a large scale aircraft many years ago but can't remember at the mo' how it was wired into the system. Norman.
Sorry Martin just read your post, I'm no expert however just to start the ball rolling with my little imput:- All orange receivers can run on anything between 3.7 to 9.6volts, The wire configuration is always:- top is signal, middle is positive and negative is bottom, if you look on one side of your receiver you will see a very small "s" embossed into plastic case denoting signal. Binding is dead easy, may I suggest take a look on YouTube under "binding orang rx" and all will be revealed (a picture paints a thousand words). Sorry I can't be of more help Martin however I'm sure we will receive more input soon👍 Norman.
Respect to you my boy! That engine is a thing of great beauty!!. Here in Liverpool we have the "Tate modern" art gallery, if it was up to me and I'm sure many of you, that engine would be pride of place in the foyer under glass. You must not sell it, you'll regret it, keep it and just look at it when your feeling low🤧, I would. I am so tempted to contact you, but my wife has told me " no more boys toys or I'm leaving home" which gives me even more incentive, as if the engine wasn't enough on it's own😳👌. Norman.
Ian, I thought all ED where compression ignition (diesel) so not sure what yours could be. I still have a seagull (1cc) hunter (2.5cc) and a sea otter (3.5cc) I believe that the sea otter was the only engine ED made specifically for use in boats (water cooled) because the flywheel was at the opposite end of the crank eliminating the need to thread your starter cord under your prop shaft and u.j. Norman.
Thank you from the bottom of my heart you guys, I consider myself well and truly bolloked!!, love you're engines. I feel better now with your support, your correct, why should we just accept it, I'm keeping 95% of my IC boats and engines now, in fact I've just ordered a 6volt battery to fire up the 15cc coil ignition gannet in the huntsman and intend giving it an outing. This is just my opinion I do not wish to offend, however I believe as we with IC boats in clubs became the minority then most members who just like pootling around looked upon the fast loud smelly ICs as a nuisance so let's ban them. Thanks again guys "power to the people"✌️.
Hi Boatshed, that's crazy, £80 fine for running your boat, i'd like to have met that ranger (jobsworth) you could rob your local sweet shop and got fine less. I to have several SCs 40,45,60 and a 90 ABC wonderful bargain little engines, the 60 must have had, no exaggeration, at least 20 gallons of fuel run through it and it's still as good as new, the 90,O.M.G., has that much compression it needs 24volts to start it. My pride and joy is my veron huntsman which I built in 1966 with a 15cc gannet four stroke petrol engine.
Thanks you guys for your replies, my old club used to have a wonderful system which was:- on the hour electrics could use the water and on the half hour I.C. Had the water, it worked great👌everybody was happy😁. However several years ago it was decided to ban all I.C.s. It's a shame because I've never seen the crowds of public spectators a Sunday of "flatie" racing used to draw, small highly tunes boats racing around three boys😭. Never mind onwards and upwards with brushless and lipos.
Yes I've decided to sell most of my I.C. Boats and engine, because of this "nanny state" that we live in now. Probably 95% of clubs and sailing waters in my area(Liverpool) stipulate No I.C.s, l'm not traveling 50 miles to sail when in reality I've got several clubs and lakes within 5 to 10 miles from my home. I started model boat building in the 50s with balsa models and on to "aerokits" sea urchin, scout, rover, commander, and the holy grail the sea queen all of which had diesel or petrol engines. Granted we have come a long long way since then with electric and brushless motors, I do use them in both planes and boats, but there is still something to be said for the sound smell and reality of an I.C.engine in a boat, aircraft aren't to bad at the present, until they ban them to. Sorry for the rant but that's the way I feel.😭
Purchased this motor back in 1966, I've broken my con' rod, I need to replace it so any ideas?, I've had one fabricated from aircraft quality aluminium but I'm not happy with it 😢. I do still have the original, though in two pieces 😪. So I'm putting it out there for any ideas on replacing it, whether it be original (not much hope) or a good engineer to re-manufacture👍.
Good morning all, Many thanks Ron for your information. Can I ask:- say you only using your batteries every four weeks or so, should we leave them with full charge or should we reduce voltage to holding charge for that four weeks?. I understand this could be a "how long is a piece of string" question. Norman.