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Model Boats Website Team
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Thanks Doug and Donnie tried the 15 amp fuses all went well the boat is ready for the lake. and thank you all for the help and advise during this build over the past year I really don't think I could have managed it without your input. the next stage is going to be replacement of the brass rudders and some work on weight saving and some pic on the RC system. and making a suitable box for transportation. that will kept me occupied till the better weather. So thank you all and have a merry Christmas and happy new year and a good hangover cure and may your god be with you in all your sailing
Schnellboot Radio control setup 3 Mtroniks M400 marine Motors (running at 12V, at maximum efficiency it will run at around 20,000 Rpm and pull around 4 amps. Start-up current depending on prop size (30mm on 4mm prop shaft) would be around 10amps (6-12 volts) 3 Mtroniks Viper marine 15 ESCs connected using Mtroniks W-tail mixer with 10-amp fuses used between ESC and battery’s Batteries are 1 Carson 2100 MAH High performance NiMH battery pack 2 Vanquish 22oo MAH NiMH battery pack All Batteries are 7.2 V I have tested the set -up all the ESC are synchronised, and all seems well on the bench but when I try it in test tank all the fuses blow, and I check all connections and there are not short circuits on the connections or switches can anyone help
Hi all thank you all for advice and comments , I have had a good look at all the suggestion and decided to go for the 3m scotch suitcase type and I will let you know if they are ok. now I have a question for all when choosing motors should you chose a voltage rating equal to the of the battery or higher then the voltage of the battery
Hi all , can any one recommend a fuse holder type for RC boat , I have tested the schenllboot in the testing tank got all three working but intermittently , motor 1 fuse blown motor 3 smoking ,its a 15 amp 7.2v system.my aim is to replace Halfords fuse holders with ones more suited to model boat cant find any on internet which are specific for model boats , also planning to change wire for mtroniks wire for the fuse holder, programing the ESC works better doing one at a time
Hi all , I still having trouble with the motors , all connections fixed , now here a question , when programing multiple ESCs would you program them individually or do you have to program them simultaneously?
Hi onetenor normally I would suggest stud/screw extractor/ but I would suggest that you drill it out using 2mm drill then if you have an tapered burr you could try and catch the screw with that, I managed it once, or you could drill it out with 2mm drill then use a smaller burr and carefully grind the screw out and if successful re-tape the hole for 4mm screw
Hi all back at bench for a couple hours my back is slowly improving. the build is nearly complete, but I do have a bit of a problem with the motors, two of the motors have grouper type connectors the other has connectors form Halfords, The one from Halfords is motor 3 this is the central motor , motors 1&2 have grouper connectors , motor runs really well no problems, but 1&2 RUN INTERMITTILY but only when tweak the connector, Now I don't know if there is some other piece of kit I yet to find out about or maybe the grouper type connectors are just finicky , any body any suggestions or comments before I replace the connections with the Halfords connectors and here is question for Doug you said it would be wise to fit a switch and a fuse on the battery for the RX I have a four cell battery , what size of fuse would recommend. and lastly here is the picture of my little milling machine
Hi all I have been reading the post concerning lathes, my little lathe suits my needs and my pocket its great. I also forty years experience working with manufacturing machines, wood lathes ,bandsaws, milling machines, and metal turning lathes, and more. I was also a first aider most of working life, And what I would advise for people who have no experience in using any of these type machines weather full size or mini is to get instruction preferably from a time served machinist who have trained apprentice's or a course at further education college. I have had to attend three lathe accidents and all were life changing. you can see what I mean if you Google lathe accidents and good look at the images. full size or mini makes no difference
Hi Rookysailor I got from site called Banggood great peace of kit. but I would advise you to type in mini lathe in your search engine and have a good look around. And also look for one that has a tail stock that you can put a chuck in , I bought mine separately and the tail stock have be altered a bit. no big problem just inconvenient . The site also have a mini milling machine that bought,not to bad if you take your time. I will post a pic when I can hobble out to the garage
Yep quite spectacular said the wife, as to the ground loop. I was half way getting up and out of the thing when the good Samaritan tried to take hold the handle bar ,and in the process also grabbed the throttle, such is life.
Dear all for those following this blog, due to having a bit of a problem getting out of the optician yesterday and the overs zealous help I may not be able to post any for a couple of weeks . the helper was trying help out the shop and the throttle on the scooter at the wrong moment ,I did a sort of barrel role and hit the pavement at great rate of knots, I am back on my back till the pain subsides. sorry guys.
Hi all , question, can 3 esc,s be connected on to one switch or do you need an another piece of electronics to switch all the esc,s with one switch or would two of the be made redundant when using the W-Tail mixer.
Hi all and thank you for your comments, and thanks to Doug, have read and understood order is placed and looking forward to setting it up as advised, and I will try to remember to use paragraph's or smaller chapters.👍
Hi all for the second blog report on the schnellboot I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need advice on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.
Hi all this is my first blog, last year I post my intention to do a project about an RAF D boat that my Father served on and as a precursor to that build That I was going to do this S/E boat as the hull design is shared by both, and as plastic kit modeller the kit great the first stage was to put together the decks and superstructure as normal, with the exception of all the bits that would be easily broken as most kit aircraft modellers aerials and guns tend to brake ,so long ago I got into the habit of making these out brass rod or bar using a mini drill and a set of needle files, holding the drill in my left hand and the files in my right, when started this I saw the number of stanches I needed so I came across this little beauty a mini bead lathe it is a great bit of kit and not expensive less than £50 and plenty of types and accessories available so all the stanches aerials hand rails, gun rails, horn, and some of the components for the rudder and tiller were made on this lathe. so good time being had in my first radio control boat. the next post will show all the parts for the rudder/tiller setup ( I have reposted blog because I think I did not do it properly first time round)
Hi Doug I am using 3 mtroniks viper marine 15 ESC,s and 3 MFA RE-380-Pole DC Motors all have been tested singularly at low speed and connected to 4mm propeller shafts and 30mm propellers and all went well
Hi all, I want to connect three ESC,s which connect to the three motors . I have looked at the mtroniks W-tail marine mixer and I am not sure if this will do the job, they seem more for 2 motors rather than three . any suggestions
I really like your schenllboot and I hope you get the same satisfaction as I am getting, I have building the same kit for the last year and a bit , and the support on this site is tremendous, as well as the tips and methods in the blogs and posts . I think I would have be lost without the members help, so keep at PS the boat looks really good
Hi RNinMunich thank a lot put my mind at rest and nice to have the reasoning explained , also good to here from you, been a while, and good to be back making stuff again after getting the needles in my spine hope all is well with all members