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Model Boats Website
Liked Deans Marine 3 days ago
Liked Styrene glues???? on Styrene boats 2 months ago
Liked Fitting deck to FG hull 5 months ago
Liked Nile River Gunboat - Stern Wheeler 5 months ago
Liked Billing Boats St. Canute 12 months ago
Liked Re: HMS Buttercup K193 1 year ago
Liked HMS Buttercup K193 1 year ago
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📝 Deans Marine
3 days ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland (
Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 55 Views · 3 Likes
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Many years ago I purchased some resin parts for a model boat I was building, when they arrived they were still sticky and had the firmness of a wine gum. Most were deformed. I phoned up the factory and was told that Ron Dean was away at a trade show in Germany. I asked for a replacement or a refund and was told to F*** off. The following week I again phoned up to complain to R Dean. He defended his worker and implied that I was at fault however he would send some replacements. When they came they were nearly as bad as the originals. The most annoying thing is that I could make the parts much better myself. I had assumed that so called "professionally" made would be better than mine.
I learnt some valuable lessons that day
1. is look before you spend serious cash and
2. I won't ever buy from Deans Marine again.
I learnt some valuable lessons that day
1. is look before you spend serious cash and
2. I won't ever buy from Deans Marine again.
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📝 Fighting Lights
4 days ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 26 Views · 4 Likes
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Hi Steve, This was the very first type of boat that I scratch built and thoroughly enjoyed making and sailing. Normally the navigation lights are perched atop the cabin roof, From your description, these lights are perched higher up and doubled which sounds to me as though they were meant to be seen at the height of battle. Also consider that an HDML is quite a low down boat and in open ocean they could easily disappear in deep wave troughs. So in conclusion my thought are that they were just extra lights to make them more visible in difficult circumstances. You also state that this HDML was a navigational leader therefore it needed to be visible.
Best wishes Tim.
P.S. Although John Lambert is considered an authority, I have been building Caldercraft's Sir Kay, I have discovered some discrepancies between his drawings and dockyard plans and photographs.
Best wishes Tim.
P.S. Although John Lambert is considered an authority, I have been building Caldercraft's Sir Kay, I have discovered some discrepancies between his drawings and dockyard plans and photographs.
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📝 Styrene glues???? on Styrene boats
2 months ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 53 Views · 3 Likes
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As Len states, the glue is actually a solvent which dissolves the styrene then evaporates which sort of welds the joint together. So, roughing up the joint doesn't help and could hinder though I don't think this is the problem. The joint needs to be close fitting as these solvent glues are not gap filling and, as Len says, squeezed together. ABS is odd in that epoxies will stick temporarily but soon come adrift. There is a special 2 part adhesive for ABS which is like an epoxy and fills gaps. Sorry can't remember the name. Solvent glues should work on styrene and ABS. Could you put a corner fillet of styrene or ABS in the joint or would it spoil the look of the boat?
Good luck, Tim
Good luck, Tim
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💬 Re: Nile River Gunboat - Stern Wheeler
5 months ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 16 Views · 0 Likes
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Hi Neil,
A lovely model. I am interested in late Victorian gunboats, torpedo boats etc. and would love to see pictures after refurbishment. I have found that on ebay there are many manufacturers (Cottage industries) of armaments for wargames that are accurately 3d printed. Some are more than happy to reprint stuff at different scales. Might be worth a look if you are missing anything. Also Osprey publishing (Vanguard series) sell a book "Nile River Gunboats 1882–1918" for about £10.00. Lots of photos etc. Might be worth alook.
Beat wishes Tim
A lovely model. I am interested in late Victorian gunboats, torpedo boats etc. and would love to see pictures after refurbishment. I have found that on ebay there are many manufacturers (Cottage industries) of armaments for wargames that are accurately 3d printed. Some are more than happy to reprint stuff at different scales. Might be worth a look if you are missing anything. Also Osprey publishing (Vanguard series) sell a book "Nile River Gunboats 1882–1918" for about £10.00. Lots of photos etc. Might be worth alook.
Beat wishes Tim
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📝 Fitting deck to FG hull
5 months ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 55 Views · 3 Likes
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Hi Les,
Just to add my bit to flaxbybuck's good advice. I build a wooden frame all the way round the top of the hull just below deck level rather than blocks. to get round sharp curves put lots of little nicks in the wood and crack it slightly. don't try and bend wood round a curve as this could distort the hull. I then put in cross members to support the deck. These cross members can have a slight curve on the top edge to give a camber to the deck. Where you are gluing wood to fibre glass it's worth roughing up the surface slightly to give a better grip. Also use epoxy glue as cyano glue has the potential to come apart when damp. flaxbybuck is oh so correct when he talks about water ingress though sometimes it is condensation from taking a boat from a warm house and putting it in cold water so make sure you can dry internals out.
Best wishes Tim
Just to add my bit to flaxbybuck's good advice. I build a wooden frame all the way round the top of the hull just below deck level rather than blocks. to get round sharp curves put lots of little nicks in the wood and crack it slightly. don't try and bend wood round a curve as this could distort the hull. I then put in cross members to support the deck. These cross members can have a slight curve on the top edge to give a camber to the deck. Where you are gluing wood to fibre glass it's worth roughing up the surface slightly to give a better grip. Also use epoxy glue as cyano glue has the potential to come apart when damp. flaxbybuck is oh so correct when he talks about water ingress though sometimes it is condensation from taking a boat from a warm house and putting it in cold water so make sure you can dry internals out.
Best wishes Tim
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📝 Unknown boat
6 months ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 23 Views · 0 Likes
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Sorry spelling mistake HMS. Poneke.
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📝 Unknown boat
6 months ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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Looks like early Thorneycroft torpedo boat circa 1880 look at HMS Poeneke
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📝 magnetic drive
10 months ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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Sorry still sending only half the message. Don't know why. Mountfleet Models once produced a Chariot kit. This is R & R Engineering's drive unit for it at £290. The picture of the unit might give you some ideas. Good luck .
Tim
Tim
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📝 magnetic drive
10 months ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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Sorry Jacko, for some reason this website only sent half the message. Look at this website (it does exist )
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📝 magnetic drive
10 months ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 18 Views · 1 Like
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Hi Jacko,
I've had a look at the Lego sub and the chariot MK1 diagram. Under normal circumstances a simple prop tube assembly glued into a sub would be sufficient as there isn't enough water pressure to force water into the body if it is surface running and the prop shaft is greased. However the chariot had contra rotating props. I can't imagine how to solve it. The Lego system is novel but I would worry that if it hit a submerged object in a pond the prop assembly could get dislodged. Don't let me discourage you as I'm sure there is an answer out there somewhere.
R & R engineering (
I've had a look at the Lego sub and the chariot MK1 diagram. Under normal circumstances a simple prop tube assembly glued into a sub would be sufficient as there isn't enough water pressure to force water into the body if it is surface running and the prop shaft is greased. However the chariot had contra rotating props. I can't imagine how to solve it. The Lego system is novel but I would worry that if it hit a submerged object in a pond the prop assembly could get dislodged. Don't let me discourage you as I'm sure there is an answer out there somewhere.
R & R engineering (
)
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📝 Action Electronics P94 Dual ESC Mixer
10 months ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 34 Views · 0 Likes
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Hello Atreius ,
Modern electronics produce effective results, but if you are having problems have you thought of the old method where moving the rudder would activate a micro-switch which would reverse the power to a motor? If you are interested let me know and I'll find a circuit diagram.
Good luck
Tim
Modern electronics produce effective results, but if you are having problems have you thought of the old method where moving the rudder would activate a micro-switch which would reverse the power to a motor? If you are interested let me know and I'll find a circuit diagram.
Good luck
Tim
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📝 magnetic drive
10 months ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 32 Views · 1 Like
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Hi Jacko,
Can you expand a bit on why you need a magnetic drive? The reason I ask is that subs use a different method to keep water out of the waterproof cylinder whilst driving a propellor.
Best wishes Tim
Can you expand a bit on why you need a magnetic drive? The reason I ask is that subs use a different method to keep water out of the waterproof cylinder whilst driving a propellor.
Best wishes Tim
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📝 Other Functions for Model Boats
12 months ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 54 Views · 5 Likes
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I once read an article where a buoyant object was tied to the boat with string and then stuck to the deck of a boat with soap. Don't know whether it would work or not. I'm sure there are stickier things around than soap which are also water soluble but it seemed like a good idea at the time.
Best wishes to all, Tim
Best wishes to all, Tim
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📝 Losing interest.
12 months ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 44 Views · 5 Likes
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Hello Nick,
I think you have received some good advice from the others, however just remember that what works for one person won't always work for another so don't be discouraged. I have been in a similar situation to you and the others and I think the worst thing that happened was when others said things like buck your ideas up, sort yourself out or it could be worse. Grief, depression, anxiety etc affects different people in different ways so do NOT compare your self to others. I have found that talking to others (not necessarily about my problems ) helped me. The answer might not lie with model boats, I believe that colouring books have helped some people regain interest. Forcing yourself to do something you once enjoyed may be counter productive. CBT or mindfulness are certainly worth thinking about. Please let us know how you are getting on, it's obvious that in this group there are plenty of members who have been in the same situation. You are not alone.
Good luck and best wishes Tim
I think you have received some good advice from the others, however just remember that what works for one person won't always work for another so don't be discouraged. I have been in a similar situation to you and the others and I think the worst thing that happened was when others said things like buck your ideas up, sort yourself out or it could be worse. Grief, depression, anxiety etc affects different people in different ways so do NOT compare your self to others. I have found that talking to others (not necessarily about my problems ) helped me. The answer might not lie with model boats, I believe that colouring books have helped some people regain interest. Forcing yourself to do something you once enjoyed may be counter productive. CBT or mindfulness are certainly worth thinking about. Please let us know how you are getting on, it's obvious that in this group there are plenty of members who have been in the same situation. You are not alone.
Good luck and best wishes Tim
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📝 Mystery boat
1 year ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 88 Views · 4 Likes
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Hello,
Like Doctor John I am interested in pre WW1 torpedo boats which this is most likely a model of. Elements of the boat look familiar. particularly the round conning tower. I have included a picture of USS Cushing built by the Herreshoff brothers. Note the double round armoured conning towers and the rectangular air vents. Most boats had round air cowls. I think this boat is a development of this type of American boat or someone's idea of what a TBD should look like. Just sticking my oar in. (Pun perhaps intended).
best wishes to all Tim
😀
Like Doctor John I am interested in pre WW1 torpedo boats which this is most likely a model of. Elements of the boat look familiar. particularly the round conning tower. I have included a picture of USS Cushing built by the Herreshoff brothers. Note the double round armoured conning towers and the rectangular air vents. Most boats had round air cowls. I think this boat is a development of this type of American boat or someone's idea of what a TBD should look like. Just sticking my oar in. (Pun perhaps intended).
best wishes to all Tim
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💬 Re: HMS Buttercup K193
1 year ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 59 Views · 1 Like
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Many thanks for that. I like the look of your boat and set-up. My mister is too big for the boat.
Best wishes Tim
Best wishes Tim
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💬 Re: HMS Buttercup K193
1 year ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 69 Views · 2 Likes
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Hi Scratchbuilder, I'm interested in your smoker. Is it possible to put a quick sketch on the website to show how you've constructed it? I'm having trouble fitting a mister in my Sir Kay and your unit looks nice and compact.
Best wishes Tim.
With regard to the colour of the smoke , the only way that you'll get black smoke is to burn something and get soot in the smoke just like the real thing. Even if you use a mister and put dye in the water you'll only get white smoke.
Best wishes Tim.
With regard to the colour of the smoke , the only way that you'll get black smoke is to burn something and get soot in the smoke just like the real thing. Even if you use a mister and put dye in the water you'll only get white smoke.
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📝 My little Victory
1 year ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 56 Views · 6 Likes
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I once read that marines etc. on ships, wore red coats to conceal blood from gunshot wounds. Never did find out why they wore brown trousers though.😊 Seriously though the army and navy were dealing with illiterate men and women, so it was probably easier to colour code similar items if they had to be repaired. Blue bits for one type of gun red for another. Just a thought.
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📝 lippo wind up
1 year ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 44 Views · 1 Like
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Slightly off topic, but I was reading an article on I think the BBC web site about the number of fires at waste recycling plants. In some cases the factories were burnt down. The authorities can't be 100% certain but they believe most of them were caused by batteries in disposable items ( musical birthday cards and toys etc.) and batteries thrown away. There is a video from a security camera of an explosion on a conveyor belt. All batteries should be disposed of at an appropriate place. I was repairing my grandson's drone when I accidentally shorted it out. The small flat LiPo immediately puffed up into a barrel shape. Fortunately it didn't explode.
Best wishes Tim
Best wishes Tim
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Colin H
📝 Hull sheets/plating
1 year ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 41 Views · 1 Like
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Have you thought about decent cardboard or paper strip? "Don't use card in layers like mountboard. It delaminates". If you soak it with several coats of thinned varnish afterwards it is very hard. I have used it and was very surprised at how good it was. It was very popular many years ago before plasticard and liteply. One advantage of using card or gummed paper is that rivet detail can be impressed on the reverse.
Best wishes Tim
Best wishes Tim
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Colin H
📝 1;14 Deck guns ww2 vintage
1 year ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 25 Views · 0 Likes
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There are several people advertising on ebay and elsewhere who make some excellent guns/armament etc . by 3d printing for War gamers (such as Bolt action). They are usually to war gaming scales which don't match model boat scales. All the people that I have contacted have been more than happy to rescale for me. Obviously you will have to negotiate a new price. The only problem is that you can't do private deals on ebay as all purchases must go through them so they get their cut. It is not really a problem just an annoyance. The dealer sends a separate invoice through ebay you pay through ebay. I have been tempted by Shapeways but have been put off by horrendous charges. Good luck
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📝 From plan to board
1 year ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 32 Views · 2 Likes
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Hi Jordan,
Just sticking my oar in (no pun intended). I photocopy like John and Wallismanby but cut roughly round the photocopy image and stick it straight onto the wood. I once made the mistake of sticking the plan down with PVA glue and couldn't get it off the wood. I now use something like wallpaper paste which soaks off readily. The paper stretches slightly when wet, but when cutting along the black line of the plan allows for cleaning up if you're clumsy with a saw, like me. If you keep using the original plan it soon tears along creases or you get glue on it. Photocopies are always a good idea to work from.
It boils down to personal choice in the end.
Good luck Tim
Just sticking my oar in (no pun intended). I photocopy like John and Wallismanby but cut roughly round the photocopy image and stick it straight onto the wood. I once made the mistake of sticking the plan down with PVA glue and couldn't get it off the wood. I now use something like wallpaper paste which soaks off readily. The paper stretches slightly when wet, but when cutting along the black line of the plan allows for cleaning up if you're clumsy with a saw, like me. If you keep using the original plan it soon tears along creases or you get glue on it. Photocopies are always a good idea to work from.
It boils down to personal choice in the end.
Good luck Tim
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Colin H
📝 Motors for 1/32 scale plastic Elco PT boat
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 21 Views · 1 Like
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Many thanks for the reply Doug I'll take your advice. I have lots of other projects on the go but saw this old Lindberg PT 109 for sale cheap as it had been partly made. An impulse purchase. I don't want to spend too much time or money on it but it is an ideal project to get the grandkids interested in the hobby.
Best wishes Tim
Best wishes Tim
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RNinMunich
📝 Motors for 1/32 scale plastic Elco PT boat
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 56 Views · 2 Likes
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I have just acquired a 1/32 scale plastic Elco PT boat it needs fitting out with electrics. can anyone suggest what size brushed motors I should use? I'm not familiar with boats this size and weight etc. so any advice welcome. It needs two motors and will be used by grandchildren so don't want anything too fast that they can't control it. They are of the age where it's full speed or nothing.
Best wishes Tim
Best wishes Tim
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📝 Ship's navigation lights and deck colour. WWII
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 27 Views · 0 Likes
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Thanks for your comment Ron. If I painted my model like that people would say that I'd bodged it and should strip it down and start again.
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📝 Ship's navigation lights and deck colour. WWII
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 56 Views · 0 Likes
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Many Thanks to Peejay and Toradog for your replies. What you suggest is what I suspected. I think i will take the attitude that if no-one knows then no-one can criticise me for not including them. I have the Caldercraft Sir Kay which is a nice starting point. I have replaced most of the white metal parts with resin ones to cut down on top weight. If you compare the model with the John Lambert plans it is wrong in many ways, however if you compare the John Lambert plans with the original shipyard plans they are wrong too. As a final problem, if you compare the shipyard plans with photos they too are wrong. So if any of you see me sailing her on my local pond and come to me saying my model is wrong , I will not be polite😠😠😠.
Best wishes and thanks Tim😊😊😊
Best wishes and thanks Tim😊😊😊
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📝 Ship's navigation lights and deck colour. WWII
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 66 Views · 3 Likes
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Hello everyone, it's snowing again so back to modelling. I am currently building a WWII minesweeper. On various websites there are rules for lighting when minesweeping which are 3 green lights facing forwards and to rear, set in a triangular shape at the top of the mast and yardarms. There should also be some sort of ball hoisted to show which side is being swept. The balls appear on some photos but the the lights do not appear on any photo or plan. Were they abandoned during the war?
A second question, was the steel plating of the deck the same shade of grey as the rest of the boat? I have seen models where modellers have painted them different shades to emphasise the vertical and horizontal planes.
Any advice is gratefully accepted.
Best wishes Tim
A second question, was the steel plating of the deck the same shade of grey as the rest of the boat? I have seen models where modellers have painted them different shades to emphasise the vertical and horizontal planes.
Any advice is gratefully accepted.
Best wishes Tim
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Carlos31
📝 Balsa of choice and alternatives
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 46 Views · 2 Likes
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Hi Roboboyo,
I didn,t know what you were building but a block of balsa might be perfect for the hull. depends whether the interior will be solid or open. Also many people like to make the superstructure out of solid balsa then skin it with thin ply, card or plasticard. It's your choice really. What do others think?
best wishes Tim
I didn,t know what you were building but a block of balsa might be perfect for the hull. depends whether the interior will be solid or open. Also many people like to make the superstructure out of solid balsa then skin it with thin ply, card or plasticard. It's your choice really. What do others think?
best wishes Tim
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📝 Balsa of choice and alternatives
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 55 Views · 3 Likes
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Hello roboboyo,
I totally agree with Dave and Newby, many of us started out many years ago by buying balsa kits from firms like keil-kraft and others. Here's my contribution.
1.Screws rip out of balsa. An extreme case would be an engine mount for an ic. engine.
2. There is different quality balsa, some is harder than others, some is too soft. Some cuts nicely across grain with a knife others tear.
3. Direction of grain in a model is very important. Whilst the same is true of ply it is more forgiving.
4. It sands easily, in some cases too easily. i have lost count of the times I have got carried away sanding.
5. I find that using a razor saw is best (for me) for cutting across grain. Cutting inside curves can be tricky as the knife blade sometimes follows the grain rather than where you want to go.
6. Finally, balsa has prominent grain which might need a lot of filling.
a model that I am currently working on is HMS Hornet, a Torpedo boat destroyer from the 1890's. The structural parts of the boat are wooden rod and ply but the stern, part of the bow and fore deck are carved balsa block covered in aircraft tissue and doped several times.
Good luck with your project.
Tim
I totally agree with Dave and Newby, many of us started out many years ago by buying balsa kits from firms like keil-kraft and others. Here's my contribution.
1.Screws rip out of balsa. An extreme case would be an engine mount for an ic. engine.
2. There is different quality balsa, some is harder than others, some is too soft. Some cuts nicely across grain with a knife others tear.
3. Direction of grain in a model is very important. Whilst the same is true of ply it is more forgiving.
4. It sands easily, in some cases too easily. i have lost count of the times I have got carried away sanding.
5. I find that using a razor saw is best (for me) for cutting across grain. Cutting inside curves can be tricky as the knife blade sometimes follows the grain rather than where you want to go.
6. Finally, balsa has prominent grain which might need a lot of filling.
a model that I am currently working on is HMS Hornet, a Torpedo boat destroyer from the 1890's. The structural parts of the boat are wooden rod and ply but the stern, part of the bow and fore deck are carved balsa block covered in aircraft tissue and doped several times.
Good luck with your project.
Tim
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💬 Re: Another St Canute
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 tim morland ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)✧ 60 Views · 3 Likes
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I like your photos, very atmospheric. I thought that photo number 2 was the real thing to start with.
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