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    tomarack
    Member Stats
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    Member No.#2665
    Registered๐Ÿ“…16th Dec 2013
    Last Online๐Ÿ“…16th Mar 2026
    City๐Ÿ“Roznov p.R.
    Country๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟCzech Republic
    Genderโ™‚๏ธMale
    Age๐Ÿ‘ถNot Provided
    Posts๐Ÿ’ฌ244
    Followers๐Ÿ“ฃ5
    Likes Received๐Ÿ‘686

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    ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ premecekcz ( Master Seaman)
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    Liked Testing LED diodes 27 days ago
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    ๐Ÿ“ Wanted Pulley
    1 day ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 7 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Hi,

    I can recommend a reliable company for the selection of various pulleys and accessories


    https://www.rbmodel.com/
    https://abermodels.com/
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: SMS Embden plus maiden video
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 14 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    It is a truly beautiful model, unfortunately with mixed feelings I take the liberty of correcting the name of the model. It is the SMS Emden..
    See >

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SMS_Emden_(1916)
    ๐Ÿ“ Question of the Day?
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 41 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    I was initially considering a bowline knot, but my choice was questioned by the claim that it could be easily untied...which I don't think.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Royal Naval Steam Pinnace
    6 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 22 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hi,here is another interesant source
    I wish you success in finding details and constructing the model.
    Tom




    https://www.nationalhistoricships.org.uk/register/40/steam-pinnace-199
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Royal Naval Steam Pinnace
    6 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 29 Views ยท 1 Like
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment


    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steam_Pinnace_199
    ๐Ÿ“ MIAOW
    7 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 4 Views ยท 14 Likes ยท 3 Comments
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    A friend gave me a thin(1 mm) plywood sheet measuring about 60x40 cm. I didn't know what to build with it, until I finally chose a model, Emma by Gary Webb (Bearospace Industries). Is it a semi-scale portrayal of a sprit-rigged cruising sloop from the mid 20th century, designed for RC sailing, reduced to 60% so that the individual parts fit on the plywood.
    The total length of the model is ultimately 58.5 cm (23").
    Due to this, I had to improvise a lot, instead of a lever servo I used a sail winch, but even so there is unexpectedly little space under the deck. I had to come up with a different arrangement for the sail sheets and adjust the location of the rudder servo.
    By reducing the length to approximately 60%, the sail area has decreased to 36% and the displacement to 22% compared to the original model.
    This is because when increasing or decreasing the length changes linearly, the area changes quadratically and the weight (displacement) changes cubically.
    I used 1mm and 3mm plywood (for the ribs) for the model. I glued everything with polyurethane glue, and the finished model was impregnated with diluted epoxy.
    For the mast and spars I used carbon fiber tubes with a diameter of 6mm, 4mm and 3mm, the spar is made of bamboo.
    The sails are made of Ripstop nylon.
    The fin keel is made of 2mm aluminum, with a lead bomb it weighs 980 grams.
    The hull of the model with full equipment and sails (without keel) weighs 1060 grams.
    Surface treatment - nitro spray, deck and superstructures Revell colors. After much deliberation, I named the model MIAOW
    More photos at: tomarack rajce net

    Dear friends
    I have to declare here...
    If I had known in advance what problems I would have to solve, I would have probably built Emma in the recommended size (1 meter) as Gary Webb recommends.
    On the other hand..the model fits in a bag even with a stand and fin keel + transmitter in a backpack..
    To my surprise, it sails quite well even in very light winds, and I am happy with it.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Emily
    9 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 26 Views ยท 5 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Yesterday I also finished and tested the scaled down model of Emma by Gary Webb.
    Length 58 cm, sail winch, rudder servo.
    If I had known in advance what tricks the scaled-down version offers, I would have preferred to build the large model...


    https://www.rajce.idnes.cz/tomarack/album/emma-mini
    ๐Ÿ“ various electrical connection diagrams for two motors
    11 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 5 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    HI,
    I think I've already posted this here, but it never hurts to repeat it. On my Lulonga quarter-wheeler model, I use the connection according to Figure 7 with the difference that instead of a separate battery I use the BEC from the ESC. The motors are controlled on the receiver Th 3 channel and Ail 1 . channel via the V-tail mixer. So I can control the model with a single stick ( Th ). I have the rudder connected to channel 4 as usual. Of course, you can control the boat with just the rudder, but in my case, this is only of little effectiveness.
    This connection with an external V-tail mixer seemed the easiest to me, but I was unable to program this connection option appropriately.
    Basically, by moving the Th stick (channel 3) forward and backward, we control the power of both engines. By moving the same stick left or right, we control the direction of their rotationโ€”it's similar to the ailerons on an aeroplane.
    It's interesting - if I want to turn the model on the spot, I don't "give gas", I just tilt the stick left or right. At that moment (in my case) one wheel turns forward and the other one turns back (and vice versa) so the model stops and just turns.
    greetings!!
    Lulonga schema -wiring for my RC quarter wheeler,fog horn and siren switching via canal 2, prop servo switches microswitches, see color photo.
    I wanted to add some articles in Word (doc) but they wouldn't open here.


    Tom K

    ๐Ÿ“ various electrical connection diagrams for two motors
    11 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 5 Views ยท 2 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    HI,
    I think I've already posted this here, but it never hurts to repeat it. On my Lulonga quarter-wheeler model, I use the connection according to Figure 7 with the difference that instead of a separate battery I use the BEC from the ESC. The motors are controlled on the receiver Th 3 channel and Ail 1 . channel via the V-tail mixer. So I can control the model with a single stick ( Th ). I have the rudder connected to channel 4 as usual. Of course, you can control the boat with just the rudder, but in my case, this is only of little effectiveness.
    This connection with an external V-tail mixer seemed the easiest to me, but I was unable to program this connection option appropriately.
    Basically, by moving the Th stick (channel 3) forward and backward, we control the power of both engines. By moving the same stick left or right, we control the direction of their rotationโ€”it's similar to the ailerons on an aeroplane.
    It's interesting - if I want to turn the model on the spot, I don't "give gas", I just tilt the stick left or right. At that moment (in my case) one wheel turns forward and the other one turns back (and vice versa) so the model stops and just turns.
    greetings!!
    Lulonga schema -wiring for my RC quarter wheeler,fog horn and siren switching via canal 2, prop servo switches microswitches, see color photo.
    I wanted to add some articles in Word (doc) but they wouldn't open here.


    Tom K

    ๐Ÿ“ various electrical connection diagrams for two motors
    11 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 5 Views ยท 1 Like
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    HI,
    I think I've already posted this here, but it never hurts to repeat it. On my Lulonga quarter-wheeler model, I use the connection according to Figure 7 with the difference that instead of a separate battery I use the BEC from the ESC. The motors are controlled on the receiver Th 3 channel and Ail 1 . channel via the V-tail mixer. So I can control the model with a single stick ( Th ). I have the rudder connected to channel 4 as usual. Of course, you can control the boat with just the rudder, but in my case, this is only of little effectiveness.
    This connection with an external V-tail mixer seemed the easiest to me, but I was unable to program this connection option appropriately.
    Basically, by moving the Th stick (channel 3) forward and backward, we control the power of both engines. By moving the same stick left or right, we control the direction of their rotationโ€”it's similar to the ailerons on an aeroplane.
    It's interesting - if I want to turn the model on the spot, I don't "give gas", I just tilt the stick left or right. At that moment (in my case) one wheel turns forward and the other one turns back (and vice versa) so the model stops and just turns.
    greetings!!
    Lulonga schema -wiring for my RC quarter wheeler,fog horn and siren switching via canal 2, prop servo switches microswitches, see color photo.
    I wanted to add some articles in Word (doc) but they wouldn't open here.


    Tom K

    ๐Ÿ“ various electrical connection diagrams for two motors
    11 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 5 Views ยท 1 Like
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    HI,
    I think I've already posted this here, but it never hurts to repeat it. On my Lulonga quarter-wheeler model, I use the connection according to Figure 7 with the difference that instead of a separate battery I use the BEC from the ESC. The motors are controlled on the receiver Th 3 channel and Ail 1 . channel via the V-tail mixer. So I can control the model with a single stick ( Th ). I have the rudder connected to channel 4 as usual. Of course, you can control the boat with just the rudder, but in my case, this is only of little effectiveness.
    This connection with an external V-tail mixer seemed the easiest to me, but I was unable to program this connection option appropriately.
    Basically, by moving the Th stick (channel 3) forward and backward, we control the power of both engines. By moving the same stick left or right, we control the direction of their rotationโ€”it's similar to the ailerons on an aeroplane.
    It's interesting - if I want to turn the model on the spot, I don't "give gas", I just tilt the stick left or right. At that moment (in my case) one wheel turns forward and the other one turns back (and vice versa) so the model stops and just turns.
    greetings!!
    Lulonga schema -wiring for my RC quarter wheeler,fog horn and siren switching via canal 2, prop servo switches microswitches, see color photo
    I add some articles related to the topic.

    Tom K

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    ๐Ÿ“ Help with wiring 2 motors please
    11 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 30 Views ยท 2 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Hi Alessandro,
    I did it...see> how to >various electrical connection diagrams for two motors <
    I had problems with transferring images, basically, my entire post is there, it is possible to join it and add your comments and other useful diagrams... I put the wiring for my RC Lulonga quarterwheeler too. I am sorry, I don't have a better graphic design at the moment.
    Tom

    ๐Ÿ“ various electrical connection diagrams for two motors
    11 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 5 Views ยท 0 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    HI,
    I think I've already posted this here, but it never hurts to repeat it. On my Lulonga quarter-wheeler model, I use the connection according to Figure 7 with the difference that instead of a separate battery I use the BEC from the ESC. The motors are controlled on the receiver Th 3 channel and Ail 1 . channel via the V-tail mixer. So I can control the model with a single stick ( Th ). I have the rudder connected to channel 4 as usual. Of course, you can control the boat with just the rudder, but in my case, this is only of little effectiveness.
    This connection with an external V-tail mixer seemed the easiest to me, but I was unable to program this connection option appropriately.
    Basically, by moving the Th stick (channel 3) forward and backward, we control the power of both engines. By moving the same stick left or right, we control the direction of their rotationโ€”it's similar to the ailerons on an aeroplane.
    It's interesting - if I want to turn the model on the spot, I don't "give gas", I just tilt the stick left or right. At that moment (in my case) one wheel turns forward and the other one turns back (and vice versa) so the model stops and just turns.
    greetings!!
    Lulonga schema -wiring for my RC quarter wheeler,fog horn and siren switching via canal 2, prop servo switches microswitches, see color photo
    Tom K

    ๐Ÿ“ various electrical connection diagrams for two motors
    11 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 5 Views ยท 0 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    HI,
    I think I've already posted this here, but it never hurts to repeat it. On my Lulonga quarter-wheeler model, I use the connection according to Figure 7 with the difference that instead of a separate battery I use the BEC from the ESC. The motors are controlled on the receiver Th 3 channel and Ail 1 . channel via the V-tail mixer. So I can control the model with a single stick ( Th ). I have the rudder connected to channel 4 as usual. Of course, you can control the boat with just the rudder, but in my case, this is only of little effectiveness.
    This connection with an external V-tail mixer seemed the easiest to me, but I was unable to program this connection option appropriately.
    Basically, by moving the Th stick (channel 3) forward and backward, we control the power of both engines. By moving the same stick left or right, we control the direction of their rotationโ€”it's similar to the ailerons on an aeroplane.
    It's interesting - if I want to turn the model on the spot, I don't "give gas", I just tilt the stick left or right. At that moment (in my case) one wheel turns forward and the other one turns back (and vice versa) so the model stops and just turns.
    greetings!!
    Tom K

    ๐Ÿ“ Help with wiring 2 motors please
    11 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 54 Views ยท 11 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    HI,
    I think I've already posted this here, but it never hurts to repeat it. On my Lulonga quarter-wheeler model, I use the connection according to Figure 7 with the difference that instead of a separate battery I use the BEC from the ESC. The motors are controlled on the receiver Th 3 channel and Ail 1 . channel via the V-tail mixer. So I can control the model with a single stick ( Th ). I have the rudder connected to channel 4 as usual. Of course, you can control the boat with just the rudder, but in my case, this is only of little effectiveness.
    This connection with an external V-tail mixer seemed the easiest to me, but I was unable to program this connection option appropriately.
    Basically, by moving the Th stick (channel 3) forward and backward, we control the power of both engines. By moving the same stick left or right, we control the direction of their rotationโ€”it's similar to the ailerons on an aeroplane.
    It's interesting - if I want to turn the model on the spot, I don't "give gas", I just tilt the stick left or right. At that moment (in my case) one wheel turns forward and the other one turns back (and vice versa) so the model stops and just turns.
    greetings!!
    Tom K

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: 5. Old Stern wheel steamer
    1 year ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 85 Views ยท 5 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hi,
    I was a little surprised that one of the options is for your model to turn into a submarine.
    Well...it's been almost 50 years since I got the plans for the sternwheeler Chaperon from a friend in the US. I remembered...and planned to build that model.
    American river sternwheelers generally had a low hull and shallow draft.
    Given the construction materials I had available, I was worried that the model would be too heavy.
    Therefore, I started calculating how much displacement the model would have - and it scared me quite a bit. It turned out to be very low for a model length of around 120cm.
    To ensure sufficient draft (+ sufficient reserve), the draft of the model would have to be increased at least 2x - regardless of the similarity to the original.
    I don't know what draft you're counting on for your model, and I don't know if you've already tried putting your model in the water (maybe first the hull itself without the superstructure).
    Try to at least virtually recalculate the displacement and then compare it with the weight of the superstructure and all the equipment.
    I solved this problem with some of my models (e.g., Ned Kelly) by adding (gluing and laminating) a polystyrene foam board of suitable thickness to the bottom of the model so that the displacement of the model increased.
    It's barbaric, but the model floats and you won't know it on the water anyway.
    I hope you have a nice model, not a submarine!!
    I didn't build that model in the end for various reasons.. I like it.

    ๐Ÿ“ What makes a Good Jib?
    1 year ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 20 Views ยท 2 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Maybe too heavy canvass for such little sail,inappropriate cut.
    Try using a lighter material and instead of sewing, stick the edges of the sails with double-sided tape. You can find many instructions online.
    I wish you success.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: 5. Old Stern wheel steamer
    1 year ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 94 Views ยท 5 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    I may have already written about it here, but now the Australian site for modelers building paddle steamers should be available again.
    www.paddleducks.co.uk
    You will find a number of interesting articles, plans and instructions there
    When I built my paddle steamer I chose the "Australian" type... simple construction, good access to the steam engine - the engine room is usually open, similar to the paddle steamers on the
    Mississippi.
    When I was inserting text into the post, it disappeared after I inserted the images. So I'm repeating myself here.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: 5. Old Stern wheel steamer
    1 year ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 94 Views ยท 8 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment


    https://www.murrayriverpaddlesteamers.com.au
    ๐Ÿ“ My newest sailboat project
    1 year ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 17 Views ยท 1 Like
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Hi gents, thanks for your help.
    I use Libreoffice writer and the Czech keyboard.It seems that special characters are not very well understood when inserting text directly into the editor in MB.I am attaching the same post as .doc and .pdf documents.
    The attachments contain text that I originally copied and pasted into MB.(with problems)
    It can be seen that inserting this new way is without problems. I used a free program to convert to .pdf
    >pdf 24 tools< https://tools.pdf24.org . However, the .doc format also transferred without any problems .

    https://tools.pdf24.org
    ๐Ÿ“ My newest sailboat project
    1 year ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 17 Views ยท 1 Like
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Hi gents,
    thanks for help. Sorely I use LibreOffice Writer and Czech keyboard mutation..something went wrong.
    I'll try to insert the post as a separate text now. I'll see if everything is transferred correctly.

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    ๐Ÿ“ My newest sailboat project
    1 year ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 31 Views ยท 4 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    to RNinMunich > Many thanks for the correction and help!!!
    I was not able to copy the math formulas from my editor correctly. How did you do it please?

    to jumpugly > Scale Conversion Calculator .. interesting and helpful !!!

    Greetings
    Tom

    ๐Ÿ“ My newest sailboat project
    1 year ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 34 Views ยท 4 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    to Ronald ..>oh yes, the lead bulb weight for my 60 cm model based on calculation 748g
    for your model 28" will be lead bulb then 3 400(grams) x( 0.72x0.72x0.72)
    3400 x 0,37 = 1258 g =

    to AlessandroSPQR> .My lead batteries have reached the end of their useful life, so for my larger boats (Lulonga, barges) I use Li-Ion bat 3S1P12.6V, Models with ESC+BEC. For Minikitty NiMH Eneloop AAA 1.2V (min 750mAh) , for this my new project probably Eneloop AA 1.2V(4 pieces in a simple holder). These batteries are intended primarily for industrial use, they are very reliable.

    There are also rechargeable Li-Ion 1.5V - I have them in my Canon camera.

    ๐Ÿ“ My newest sailboat project
    1 year ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 33 Views ยท 4 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    You will use a slightly different procedure when choosing a model based on a large pattern.
    We will use as the pattern the scale 1:200 =>(1/M)
    Your model must be a reduction of this model (whether it is a motorboat, steamer, or military ship, always in a certain scale).
    This default scale is the same for all dimensions of a large ship.
    However, it is always true that lengths decrease linearly, for example, the scale M 1:200 means that all dimensions are divided by 200, and your model will have 1/200 the length of your representative. The optical appearance is absolutely the same as your model.

    Areas โ€“ decrease quadratically, with the square power => 1/Mยฒ=>1/200ยฒ
    1/200ยฒ = 1/200x200 = 1/40 000

    this means that 1mยฒ of the original => 10 000cmยฒ /40 000 = 0.25 cmยฒ

    in scale M =1:100 then the area is 1/10 000 of the original, 1mยฒ is then 10 cmยฒ large
    The same formula is used to calculate the area of โ€‹โ€‹sails.

    Volumetric measures and weights are reduced cubically, with the third power.

    1/200ยณ = 1/200x200x200 = 1/ 8 000 000
    in scale 1:100 then it is only 1/1 000 000

    A model in scale 1:200 whose model has a displacement of 10 000 t => 10 000 000 kg
    then has a displacement of 10 000 000 / 8 000 000 = 1.25 kg
    in scale 1:100 => 10 000 000 / 1 000 000 = 10 kg
    Basically, only take into account the DISPLACEMENT !!!!.
    This is mainly given for military ships, and only sometimes for others.

    Regarding speed, the following relationship applies: Vm = Vo / โˆšM

    Example: Vo = 20 km/h
    M = 1:100
    then for model > Vm = 20 (km/h) / โˆš100 = 20/10 = 2 km/h
    = 33.4 m/min
    =0.56 m/sec

    ๐Ÿ“ My newest sailboat project
    1 year ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 33 Views ยท 5 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    I would like to add a little theory here

    Scaled down proportions, basic dimensions of original model = 100%
    example on my model>
    If Emma has length 1 meter, my model has length 60 cm => 60%=>L x 0,6 => 1x0.6 = 60 cm
    sail area 3393sq.cm => sail area P/ 0.6x0.6 => 3393 x 0.36 => 1221.48 sq.cm,
    ballast 3400 g => => P/ 0.6x0.6x0.6 =>3400 x 0.22 => 748 g .

    Lengths are converted linearly, areas are converted to the square power, and weights are converted to the cube power.๐Ÿค‘

    ๐Ÿ“ My newest sailboat project
    1 year ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    I'm slowly continuing with the construction of my "Miniemma". I have the sides glued, and I'm continuing with gluing the bow and stern of the model. I decided to adjust the location of the rudder - I'll put it on a hanger on the sternpost. I had to add sternpost due to a minor construction error too. It seems more convenient to me, for transportation.
    The bottom parts come out optimally according to the drawing.
    I intend to move the deck 5 mm up - see the glued stops. I am also considering adding a bowsprit (if necessary). It is one thing to build a model and another thing - to teach it to sail. It happened to me with my "Minikitty" model.I had to increase the rudder area incredibly to balance the rigging.
    Especially when you make adjustments against the original plan - there's always a hitch. She sails well at present...

    ๐Ÿ“ My newest sailboat project
    1 year ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Hi, I see I'm not the only one building a scaled down copy of the RC sailing sloop Emma.
    About a year ago I got 2 sheets of plywood measuring 60 x 40 cm from a friend. I didn't know what to use them for. It occurred to me that this plywood could be used to build a small model.
    Some time ago, while searching the net, I visited the Bearospace Industries website again. It seemed to me that the scaled down plan for Emma could be used. When recalculating the dimensions, the length of the model came out to be about 58 cm, the side parts are just 60 cm long.
    Currently, I have the middle part glued together - the fin box,and the parts are ready to be glued together.
    A minor problem arose when recalculating the weight of the lead bulb - with the result of 750 grams at an estimated displacement of 1350g. There is quite a small reserve for the hull, rigging and RC equipment.

    ๐Ÿ“ Paddle rpm
    1 year ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    It is possible that I did not directly address the content of your post.
    Forget Froudรฉ and Reynolds. I'm afraid there's a big problem with the theory in such models. You can theoretically calculate the length, speed, displacement from the scale of the model, but the speed of rotation of the wheels is too dependent on the design and efficiency, which can't be determined in advance.

    More about paddle wheels rpm .. I also recommend you take a look at the website, www.paddleducks.co.uk ,
    , which is mainly intended for paddle boat lovers.

    Tom

    ๐Ÿ“ Paddle rpm
    1 year ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 51 Views ยท 8 Likes
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    As for me and my models with paddle wheels, I think it is necessary to test the optimal speed setting, which depends on the size of the model and the design of the paddle wheels.
    The lower limit is calculated from zero rpm, the optimal working speed of the wheels also depends on the type of ship - calculate around 80 - 150 rpm. In no case should the steamer sail at the speed of a racing boat - but I saw that on the video too.

    For example, my model of the Lulonga steamer has, in my opinion, an optimal speed, as if you were walking at a slow pace.
    It is built in 1:32 scale.


    ๐Ÿ“ part13
    1 year ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฟ tomarack ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    When I finished the model, I was very excited and immediately took it to the lake in the park to test it out.
    I didn't even have a fin with a 3 kg lead bomb at that time.
    The model looked very good on the water, but it didn't want to respond to the rudder at all when it was powered only by sails. Fortunately... I have an auxiliary motor in the model, so it was no problem getting it to shore.
    I finished the fin keel and thought it would be fine - but it wasn't. In a short time, a friend took me to a regatta at the Vรฝrovice dam near Znojmo. After arriving, I completed the model and the next morning the race in the free category started.
    The model swam to the start, and instead of starting to race, it just drifted sideways away from the start. First run - 0 .
    Now all my construction mistakes were added up. I had to come up with something quickly. The easiest thing seemed to me to use a large outer jib sail on the bow instead of the original small one. After this modification, my Capricorn finally went out on the race course - even though it had no chance against the others. During the last run, the battery failed, and I only managed to reach the shore from the starting point. This time it was a bitter end...
    At home I put the model on the shelf and devoted myself to building other models. I only occasionally took the model to the water.
    Gradually, however, I adjusted the rigging of the front sails. I left only the fore sail and only one - the big one - jib sail. Because there was little space to pull the sails when tacking, I made a new bowsprit 50 cm long - 10 cm longer than the original one. The model now behaves as expected.
    I wondered why the model didn't want to sail under sails the first time. The answer was probably the simplest...my mistake when building the model, when I placed the fin right behind the main mast. According to experienced modelers
    it should have been at least 3" ( 7.5 cm). The center of gravity of the sails was thus above the center of gravity of the side surface, instead of being a little in front of it.
    There was probably another option - to lower the mizzen sail, but that didn't occur to me at the time.
    As an attachment, I am attaching photos of the model on the water...how it has progressed over the years.
    If anyone has any questions, I'd be happy to answer them.



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