Hi,
On the other hand, there is a simple program for calculating the load, which I have used several times. It can of course be used for materials other than lead. It is possible to select a suitable bulb shape in it, the output is possible as a drawing in 1: 1 scale.
TX
http://www.onemetre.net/design/bulbcalc/bulbcalc.htm
Here is this program with a detailed calculation procedure. This comment is for the footy class, where the optimal weight of the bulb is around 250 g (approx. 9 oz)
http://www.sailfootyuk.com/use-markos-bulb-calculator.html

http://www.onemetre.net/design/bulbcalc/bulbcalc.htm

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http://www.sailfootyuk.com/use-markos-bulb-calculator.html

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Hi Nerys,
I must say that I am fine, even though the situation around me is quite tense, the number of patients is increasing sharply from day to day. I haven't been to the water with the model since that first sailing in June.
Over the summer, my wife employs me in the garden, and when I had relatively time for models, the wind didn't blow at all.
To be honest, I didn't want to drive a sailboat model just by using an engine.
I was looking forward to a nice autumn, but now it's been raining in one piece with us for a week now ... and in 14 days the pond in the park will be emptied.Then the bell and the end of the fun..
The article I wrote for our RC Revue about Gundalow was happily published - at least something positive.
greetings
Tom

Hi,
It is also due to drought and high temperatures, the trees have little sap and cannot defend themselves.
Now I'm just waiting for better weather so I can go with the models to the water.
It is said that it is a normal summer, but we are somehow not used for such summer, that it also rains in the summer here...
 I managed to write an article in our RC Revue about the construction of my model Piscataqua river gundalow.
At least something's going on
Tom

Hi to all - a few hours ago I returned from the wilderness.
Gentlemen, there is nothing worse and sadder than the all dead spruce forests eaten by bark beetles ...
Tom

Hi,
I tried to make a clip from the Caprice Maiden voyage, unfortunately, problems with focusing, it is difficult to control the model with one hand and shoot the video with the other ..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFa0tQnBr5s
It's without sound .. I don't know what musical accompaniment to record so that I don't come across Copyright ..
next time it may work better
greetings
Tom

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFa0tQnBr5s

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▶️

Hi,
the problem with the RC gear solved himself,the device works..
Martin, gundalow is a working ship before all,sailing with the tides, similar to Thames sailing barges in London.
It can be seen from the pictures that a rather reduced area of the mainsail is used on the original of the vessel, no possibility to use next sails.(pictures are from the internet ).
https://analesaharvey.wordpress.com/2018/04/16/the-piscataqu...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gundalow
> www.gundalow.orgpiscataqua gundalow Wikipedia (images)
Tom

https://analesaharvey.wordpress.com/2018/04/16/the-piscataqua-river-gundalow/

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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gundalow

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Hi,
I have a permanent problem with the wind - there are tall trees around the lake in the park. Now I do not have the opportunity to go with the models to more suitable water. When I was at the dam Vyrovice in South Moravia with Capricorn, there was a large body of water, but the wind still didn't blow...
The river Bečva, which flows through the city, usually has little water, so it is not possible to let a sailboat with a keel there.
As for the steamer Ned Kelly, unfortunately, I have no video from its operation. After a long break, when I tried to get a more suitable boiler (the original boiler from Wilesco is really only for toys), I finally sold the model to my friend. For such models, it is necessary to have at least a lathe in the workshop equipment, which I do not have, and I will not buy it anymore ... it is a bit too late for me.
Originally, it was supposed to be just a model for testing a steam engine. But when the money spent began to exceed a reasonable limit, it was more advantageous for me to build a straight model of an Australian steamer. That's when I got books and plans from Australia from penfriends. The only question was the name of the steamer - my friend Dick wrote to me ... why it couldn't be Ned Kelly (a well-known Australian robber). I thought ... why not, in the end ... so the steamer was named Ned Kelly.
The last pictures - this is our river Bečva, when it doesn't rain, there is little water in it, and a very strong current after the rain.
It is not suitable for launching models ...
 greetings
Tom

Hi,
thanks for the advice, I immediately tried DeepL, unfortunately he doesn't know the Czech language ..

Tom

Hi,
The meteorological forecast said today that the sun will shine here for 3 hours after lunch. So I took the model with confidence, loaded it on the cart and drove to the park. The wind was very weak, so I had to help the engine several times. As usual, every first ride of my model ends in disaster. It ended with a jammed rudder and the RC equipment terminated service. Fortunately, it was by the shore, so I didn't have to go into the water.
On the other hand, the model sailed quite well even in such a weak wind.
Next time, maybe it will be better ...
greetings
Tom

Hi,
thanks for the rating. I really like the older sailboats and steamers with high smoking stacks , from a time, when the ships looked like ships and not shoeboxes.
I do not dare to build complex models of ships, rather I am looking for - from today's point of view - some unusual or generally unknown constructions - as in this case Piscataqua river gundalow. I just hope I can still build some models of ships..time flies very fast for me ..
In addition, the translator from Uncle Google is still correcting my writing, and if I don't pay attention for a while, he writes nonsense.
Tom

But now I turn a little away from the topic
Pict. - my model Ned Kelly, my first and the last live steam model, Australian type steamer, according to the steamer Alexander Arbuthnot (Echuca / Moama, Murray river steamer, Australia).( echuca paddle steamers)
( echuca paddlesteamers
https://www.echucapaddlesteamers.net.au/),
https://www.murrayriverpaddlesteamers.com.au/
P.S. The following interesting pages are intended for modellers and lovers of paddle steamers - http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/
and brand news > Murray River Paddleboats >
https://www.facebook.com/groups/260527864150656/

https://www.echucapaddlesteamers.net.au/),

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https://www.murrayriverpaddlesteamers.com.au/

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http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/

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https://www.facebook.com/groups/260527864150656/

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Hi,

There is finally enough water in the lake in the park, but I have to wait again.

Yesterday I was preparing my model Caprice (Piscataqua river gundalow) for her first maiden voyage. It's raining and the weather is damned cold, almost like March, not the end of May.

Nicer weather should appear hopefully next week. I'm quite curious how the model will behave on the water... hopefully I will finally see.

Pictured all my models - Caprice, tsb Gusty Cat and tsb Capricorn (all in scale 1:24)
at the back on the shelf is my quarter wheeler Lulonga.

Greetings

Tom

P.S.
In the end, I replaced the purple foresail on the Gusty Cat model ..

BTW Doug: I never called you "RNinMunich" .. at least I don't remember .. :-)

What can I say .. maybe just .............
Aye , aye , Sir !

(zum Befehl Ihr Exzellenzflottenadmiral )

(Tom ... geht auch :-) )

To RedRider -
these are great sites - I started with them too -- some long years ago ...
I have some photos of somewhat old and a little rustyCoastguard Life boat - MLB 44 feet -

If you are interested, I can email it
Tom

Doug .. Oh boy!
Tom

those. who cares ..
If you have any links to the modeling site, I recommend - please browse through the offer of their topics .. yourself best know what you are interested. Excuse me .. you can also find many articles here too , on Modelboats => How to .. and this is where you should start.
I also recommend the reverse procedure .. enter the topic you are interested in - and Uncle Google will print a series of links ... search and answer ... if that's not what you're interested in - try to ask in another way .. when I started, it took me at least 3 days before I got the right answer to my specific question ..
Beware - you always have to take into account that Uncle Google has a "classic" education, and its technical knowledge is ... in many cases - say - minimal or curious.

Hi,
modelboatmayhem pages can be found on my link,>https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Common/Electrics/1electric...
or here> https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/index.htm
Plus, you can visit their clone on FB>

https://www.facebook.com/groups/ModelBoatMayhem/

RC groups - you surely find on Google..
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/index.php

maybe > https://www.facebook.com/rcgroups/

Who seeks - so will find..
wishing success..
Tom

https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Common/Electrics/1electrics.htm

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https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/index.htm

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https://www.facebook.com/groups/ModelBoatMayhem/

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https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/index.php

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https://www.facebook.com/rcgroups/

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Hi,
I really recommend reading the articles in Model Boat Mayhem . In any case, you will find answers to your questions - even those that might interest you in the future.
I think those articles will certainly be of interest to experienced modelers - you can always find something interesting..
Ahoy !
Tom

Hi,
Of course, one battery is enough, the output wires from the esc connect both engines in parallel - but you have to test the sense of rotation. If you have 2 engines on the model, then one must be right-handed and the other left-handed. I hope I'm not mistaken now. (see article from MBMayhem).
Try the motors first somewhere on the table, connect the wires directly to the battery (or 12V power supply - eg 12V car battery charger)
if you put a bow-oriented model in front of you, then the engine on your right hand must turn to the right (like tightening a screw), and the propeller must be clockwise - and drive the model forward. The engine on the left hand must rotate to the left, and must have an anticlockwise propeller. here you have to be careful and secure it because it tends to unscrew from the shaft.
After testing the motors, connect the wires + of both motors to the output + of ESC and
 - wires from both motors to - output from ESC. (servo do not have to deal with, compared to motors it has minimal power consumption)
yeah - you see - the ESC must be bidirectional - with zero position in the middle. this ensures that you can drive the model back and forth. ESC for aircraft models are unidirectional - they do not change the direction of rotation of the engine.
This completes the connection of the motors, you need a battery - you have to choose according to voltage and load (what current will the batteries draw while driving--
TOM
I can recommend too > https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Common/Electrics/Twin_moto...
forewords.. > https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Common/Electrics/1electric...

https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Common/Electrics/Twin_motors.htm

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https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Common/Electrics/1electrics.htm

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Hi,
you have two options - 1 Esc for both engines, control (usually channel 3 -Throttle) and steering the model using the rudder. I think this arrangement is easiest for you. Steering - rudder channel 4.

There is a second option, control by changing the speed of the left or right engine. You need 2x ESC (for each motor) and mixer (for mixing control channels). I use this to control the Lulonga paddle steamer model - the rudder model has little efficiency. Mixing channel 3 -Throttle +channel 1 - Ailerons (right stick)
I control the model with only one stick.I had less difficulty programming the mixer in the transmitter, so I used the V tail mixer.-No problems .(http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6336.45 )
- Left stick- - channel 4 -rudder ,channel 2 + siren, - foghorn .
Ahoy!

Tom

http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6336.45

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Hi Doug,
as you can see, giving advice is often problematic. If one has many years of experience with RC models, he does not even realize what problems a complete beginner has to solve, especially when he is not familiar with at least the fundamentals of electricity and the operation of the various components that are used.
It reminds me of a modeler who did not build a small boat, but immediately begins building Nelson's Victory with 100 cannons. Usually it ends infamously and with disgust - and with aversion to ship modeling.
That's why we try to help, but as you write, it is really not possible without basic information.
Ahoy!
Tom

Hi,
it is difficult to advise remotely when we do not have information - what engines do you have? - brushed,or brushless?? , what voltage, what ESC, what servos?
Selection is based on electric motors, according to which ESC (electronic controller) and batteries are selected ( LiPo,LiFe, Pb, NiCd).
In every ESC package you have a manual with all the components involved. So please read it carefully and connect the individual components accordingly. If there is no manual, so you will find it on the Internet by manufacturer and type.

On the Internet you will find a number of manuals that deal with RC models. There you will find a number of good advice clearly written. It is always recommended to start from the simplest models with simple operation. Try to find an experienced modeller somewhere near your home, who will specifically advise you.
Thus, you should probably start as the first option.
Attached is some connection options - on the net is more .. just a look ..
As for the transmitter, the engine (ESC) is controlled at the throttle position, the other servos you plug into the positions that suit you. Usually, it is possible to select a combination of channel positions on the transmitter that correspond to the positions of the controlled channels on the receiver.

wishing success
Tom

Hi Doug,
thanks for infos.Very interesting, indeed!! It is true that I did not think to look into the Wiki at all.
Greetings
Tom

Today I can finally say that the Caprice model is complete in addition to a few details.I fixed the sheets and vangs of the mainsail. I have to try rc control again - and then just wait for "big water" in the pond in the park and nice weather.
Greetings from (Moravian) Vallachian mountains Tom

Hi,
try please this "onemetre" forum
https://mya-uk.org.uk/forums/,maybe > https://www.radiosailing.org/classes/one-metre,
maybe the best> http://www.onemetre.net/index.htm

wishing success
Tom

https://mya-uk.org.uk/forums/,maybe

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https://www.radiosailing.org/classes/one-metre,

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http://www.onemetre.net/index.htm

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Hi and thanks to all of you -
in our country it is called .. nine crafts and tenth misery ..
I admire people who do only one activity and excel in it, but - on the other hand, I can say - at least I never get bored.
Doug,it was a cartoon joke in an old magazine and I liked it right away .. for my wood carving I was looking for ideas everywhere..
Forgive me when I departed from the original topic. If you would like to see a selection of my carvings, please look here:
https://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/deda_vyrezaval/
On Rajce I also have pictures of some of my other ship models.
greetings
Tom

https://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/deda_vyrezaval/

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Hi Doug,
thanks. I have some older (round 20 years) portable PC with new "bowels" . Time to time I have little troubles, but nothing serious.
I try to download interesting things, mainly concerning ships and ship modelling; over the years there is a lot of this material.
it's easier to read this, than models build 😉
I don't have much time to carve too. Woodcarving is my second big hobby.
Greetings
Tom

Hi Nerys,
I can say only - it is your model and your decision...we often have to choose compromises when creating the model, and especially the RC model. Moreover, it all depends on the modeler...Unless it's about life-there is nothing to solve-
greetings
Tom

Hi Doug,
It is the BOOKLET! Thanks !!

Let me return to Veronica deadeyes.

Today I remembered that more accurate rigging dimensions should also be listed somewhere.
BINGO !!
 I found the answer in the book > Modelling Thames Sailing Barge < by Freston and Kent.
Shrouds 3“ wire, 2´apart , deadeyes 6“ dia, 1´9“ apart (drift) (page 51,page 56)
Ratlines – clove hitches – 2“ hemp,1´6“ apart.
> So - deadeyes 6 "= 15.24cm; at 1:24 scale you have to divide this value by 24 => 6.35mm. The diameter of 7mm is quite reasonable then .
Diameter 9mm in 1:24 scale (Mastman) means 21.6 cm in fact, I would say it's really the maximum dimension - try to draw deadeye in real size!
it can be really maximum proper size for model, I think.
This is a description of the model construction of the TSB Kathleen, as well as in the book by E.J.March> Spritsail barges
Greetings
Tom

Hi Doug,

I have some troubles with upload,upload got frozen and I had to made several restarts.
I managed to accidentally click on flag on your link
I am very sorry , excuse me,please.
Tom

Hi, here is next some issue about modelling tsb model

https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/view/11663676/building-a-m...
Uo can read it "via" Yumpu browser.
Modelbarge info do not exists now,maybe the best way is - download this issue , if it is possible (I have it in my archive).
Tom

https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/view/11663676/building-a-model-thames-sailing-barge-modelbargeinfo

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Hi Nerys,
As you write correctly, I live somewhat far from you. When I saw Lady Daphne's plans in H.Underhill's book (I mean, it's been 40 years), I thought it was a really lost past. I was surprised to find that these vessels still exist (some years ago). I had to study every available material, given that I had no opportunity to get aboard a barge directly.
Therefore, I have a relatively large archive, although I do not have everything I want. Even so, if I can, I try to help the modellers at least with advice.
Tom