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MIAOW
A friend gave me a thin(1 mm) plywood sheet measuring about 60x40 cm. I didn't know what to build with it, until I finally chose a model, Emma by Gary Webb (Bearospace Industries). Is it a semi-scale portrayal of a sprit-rigged cruising sloop from the mid 20th century, designed for RC sailing, reduced to 60% so that the individual parts fit on the plywood.
The total length of the model is ultimately 58.5 cm (23").
Due to this, I had to improvise a lot, instead of a lever servo I used a sail winch, but even so there is unexpectedly little space under the deck. I had to come up with a different arrangement for the sail sheets and adjust the location of the rudder servo.
By reducing the length to approximately 60%, the sail area has decreased to 36% and the displacement to 22% compared to the original model.
This is because when increasing or decreasing the length changes linearly, the area changes quadratically and the weight (displacement) changes cubically.
I used 1mm and 3mm plywood (for the ribs) for the model. I glued everything with polyurethane glue, and the finished model was impregnated with diluted epoxy.
For the mast and spars I used carbon fiber tubes with a diameter of 6mm, 4mm and 3mm, the spar is made of bamboo.
The sails are made of Ripstop nylon.
The fin keel is made of 2mm aluminum, with a lead bomb it weighs 980 grams.
The hull of the model with full equipment and sails (without keel) weighs 1060 grams.
Surface treatment - nitro spray, deck and superstructures Revell colors. After much deliberation, I named the model MIAOW
More photos at: tomarack rajce net
Dear friends
I have to declare here...
If I had known in advance what problems I would have to solve, I would have probably built Emma in the recommended size (1 meter) as Gary Webb recommends.
On the other hand..the model fits in a bag even with a stand and fin keel + transmitter in a backpack..
To my surprise, it sails quite well even in very light winds, and I am happy with it.
tomarack
7 months ago
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1 Photo
1 Like
Piscataqua river gundalow
next article you can find here
http://www.gundalow.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Wooden_Boat_Article.pdf
pictures
https://www.rajce.idnes.cz/tomarack/album/gundalow
tomarack
6 years ago
0 Attributes
45 Photos
5 Likes
(Other) Gusty Cat
Gusty Cat is model of Thames sailing barge staysail class with auxiliary motor (no bowsprit) (Motor: 12V) (ESC: HK) (5/10)
tomarack
7 years ago
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5 Photos
4 Likes
(Other) Capricorn
Capricorn is model of Thames sailing barge with auxiliary electric motor. (ESC: HK) (5/10)
tomarack
9 years ago
6 Attributes
1 Photo
17 Likes
(Tug Boat) Lulonga quarterwheeler
Scratchbuilt,plywood, balsa, PSH/two ESC,two el motors GM37 - 150 (snail instruments)two independent paddlewheels 140 mm dia,steam engine sound module, fog horn module,el. device siren 12V,
Tx/Rx six-channel HKT6X 2,4 GHz. (Motor: 12V geared 150 rpm) (ESC: DSYS 28 DCRS) (5/10)
tomarack
12 years ago
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Members Blogs
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Thames barge Champion class model building report
For more than two years I build model Thames barge "Champion class" according to the adapted Chapelleยดs drawing (in the book by F.G.Carr) .
At the very beginning I would like to state once more, that this was a working title. In the final consequence will be the model name Capricorn (scratch building, of course) as will be explained later .
I began to think about building a model TSB some day a few years ago, when I met Thanes sailing barges for the second time /really!) and did found the sailing barges really exists and Lady Daphne is not only picture in Harold Underhill book (Sailing ship rigs and rigging) but in fact quite nice boat .So decided to buy from England plans just for the sailing barge Lady Daphne by Harold Underhill โฆ and bought I bought it from Brown, Son and Ferguson .
When I prepared model Lady Daphne ( "LD") at a scale of 1:28 ,I am on the Internet stumbled on plans for further barges, and it was TSB Nautilus , TSB Champion. In the books of England there was described TSB Kathleen and construction of its model . Along with plans Kathleen was little plan TSB Giralda - "champion of champions". Giralda had done a lot of winning races barges around 1900. I was struck that the ship had virtually the same dimensionsย ย and profiles as those listed for TSB Champion . Plans for the Champion, as I later discovered, are from one book by the American author H.I.Chapelle , and plan itself is marked as "Champion class sailing barge".
Given that a plan for the Champion were not detailed drawings or sail plan, I was forced to redraw it in 1:24 scale(also the ribs for LD to scale 1:28)), so to get an idea of the dimensions of the construction details, sails and structural elements. Even so, during construction showed imperfections in the structure of ribs, due to enlarged artwork for my use at least 20 times. As a jobbing basis, I used especially plans for LD and pictures from books and photos from the Internet. A great help for me to were web pages dedicated to tsb > modelbarge.info < in which were published methods of building models of tsb by authors Kim Holland and Bob Smith. Also pages about the theory and construction of TSB, which was published on the Internet by Mr. Ivor Bittle (unfortunately no longer available)) are directly textbook models not only for Thames barges builders.Unfortunately, the site is no longer available - try searching...
I cut out keels for both barges from the 8 mm plywood , for LD in scale 1:28 with a length of model 98 cm, and Champion 1:24 with a length of model 110 cm. Followed by cutting of the ribs from 3 mm poplar plywood for both models. Fins for both models I've cut out from 8 mm plywood.ย Picture xย ย
I now had a choice .. and so appeared crucial question .. what to do next? Build both models, or just one?
Champion resemblance to the Giralda, which was designed and built especially for wins in the barge races , and cargo for her was in second place, decided. I chose Champion .. and so prepared for me a series of unexpected difficulties, of which slightly asymmetrical hull was just the beginning.
To do this, I want to point out ... I do not know how will behave my model on water. It seems to me that just Champion for my model is too optimistic name , and so I decided then to name the model of one zodiac sign "Capricorn"
So .. I had ribs and keel for Lady Daphne and Champion as I stated before.
Since I was curious to see what will be the Champion hull shape as the real model, so I chose Champion. I did not start building the model too happily, because only after coating the hull I found that keel was glued little asymmetrically . Nevertheless I decided go on building of this model.
Somewhere in the books I read , that similar accidents occurred also among reputable barge builders ( no comment ). In my gallery photos you can monitoring the progress of construction of model.
But I have to admit that the process and materials used during construction were amended several times.
After considering all the pros and cons I decided to glue the keel of 4 parts of plywood, 8 mm thick, with an integrated shaft for fin. Shaft thus formed central portion of the keel. (here mentioned inaccuracy occurred).ย Pict 2
Shaft I created such such way - the keel model was divided into two parts, leaving between them a gap in width of the keel (2 ) , front and rear part are joined with side walls , which form the own shaft .The plywood fin is tucked into centreboard casing only provisionally , for accurate keel sticking - but insulated with Scotch tape so they don't stick.
On the keel I'm stuck ribs of poplar plywood 3 mm (not very good) .Pict 3
To reinforce the keel was higher with notches for individual ribs. As an adhesive for the keel and ribs a I used epoxy, for most other connections I used a polyurethane adhesive.(ย picture 4ย and the following).ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย
tomarack
1 year ago
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Piscataqua river gundalow
Piscataqua river gundalow
Some time ago I was preparing an article for modelers who used to sail with RC sailboat models .This article was to make known the types of sailboats practically unknown in our country.
ย On this occasion, I have practically discovered that, for example, Thames sailing barges still exist - even if they are few and increasingly costly to maintain.
While collecting the materials, a friend lent me a book about Thames sailing barges. On the Internet I searched the site > modelbarge info < operated by Richard Chesney(sorely not functional now) . I managed to get more materials, and this eventually led me to build two models TSBยจ(TSB Capricorn and TSB Gusty Cat - (Tomcat))
ย In my archive, after many years, I pulled out a book that I received from a friend in New York >American ship models< by V.R.Grimwood > where there are many other interesting types of sailboats, but this time in the US.
I started writing an article about really another rarity - Piscataqua River Gundalow. In this book there are other rarities, for example < Chesapeake Bay skipjack,Chesapeake Bay Bugeye, Scow schooner and more next vessels> but gundalow looked the most bizarre .. outside the shape that resembles a large surfboard (about 18 to 20 m long), so it has a Latin sail.
More information about gundalow can be found on the web, in the above-mentioned book by V.R. Grimwood and also in the magazine> Ships in scale (11-12 1998).
http://www.gundalow.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Wooden_Boat_Article.pdf
GUNDALOW - THE WORK HORSE OF THE RIVERS
June 2008 (a short excerpt from the next article as info)
ย The conditions in the shallow tidal basin area around Portsmouth, New Hampshire and Maine were a special case.Piscatqua River, and on its network of tributaries and the shallow Great Bay, which is seven miles upstream. The upstream towns were engaged in agriculture and manufacturing. Domestic and foreign imports arrived at Portsmouth on ships too large to navigate the Piscataqua River.. Portsmouth was their access to markets. The condition of roads at the time made them a last resort choice for transporting cargo, and not a choice at all in mud and snow seasons. Manufacturers and seasonal crop farmers needed more reliable transportation.
The solution was a simple shallow draft vessel that could reach these growing river ports. A barge in its earliest configuration, the gundalow was poled over the shallows, rode the tide in and out of the Piscataqua, was rowed with long oars called sweeps, and later carried a large sail.The gundalows were simply built, many were little more than rafts. Some were 70 feet long and built to protect the cargo.They were not sea vessels. The sails where rigged on a short stout mast, about 12 feet above deck. The lateen sail was rigged much like the Dhows of the Red Sea and Middle East. The long boom, in some cases 70โ, could easily be lowered for passing under bridges. The boom was hung on a chain from the top of the mast, about a quarter of its length from the boomโs forward end. Balanced there, the forward end was secured to the deck with block and tackle near the bow. The aft end of the boom, pivoted on the top of the mast was raised above deck at about 45 degrees.
The Fanny M., launched from Adamโs Point in Durham, NH in 1886 by Captain Edward H. Adams, was the last gundalow to operate commercially in the area
No gundalow has been preserved, but two replicas were built (1982 "Captain Edward H. Adams" and in 20011 - "Piscataqua")
When I finished both models, I wondered what to do next ... so I started to build gundalow model.
The model is approximately 1:24 scale, 90 cm long, 24 cm wide.
.........................................................
https://www.fishermensvoice.com/archives/0608gundalow.html
.........................................................
Building a Piscataqua River gundalow
> Ships in scale /vol XI/Nr 6 1998 (november - december)
tomarack
7 years ago
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๐ Wanted Pulley
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Hi,
I can recommend a reliable company for the selection of various pulleys and accessories
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๐ฌ Re: SMS Embden plus maiden video
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It is a truly beautiful model, unfortunately with mixed feelings I take the liberty of correcting the name of the model. It is the SMS Emden..
See >
| https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SMS_Emden_(1916) |
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๐ Question of the Day?
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I was initially considering a bowline knot, but my choice was questioned by the claim that it could be easily untied...which I don't think.
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๐ฌ Re: Royal Naval Steam Pinnace
6 months ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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Hi,here is another interesant source
I wish you success in finding details and constructing the model.
Tom
| https://www.nationalhistoricships.org.uk/register/40/steam-pinnace-199 |
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๐ฌ Re: Royal Naval Steam Pinnace
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| https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steam_Pinnace_199 |
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๐ MIAOW
7 months ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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A friend gave me a thin(1 mm) plywood sheet measuring about 60x40 cm. I didn't know what to build with it, until I finally chose a model, Emma by Gary Webb (Bearospace Industries). Is it a semi-scale portrayal of a sprit-rigged cruising sloop from the mid 20th century, designed for RC sailing, reduced to 60% so that the individual parts fit on the plywood.
The total length of the model is ultimately 58.5 cm (23").
Due to this, I had to improvise a lot, instead of a lever servo I used a sail winch, but even so there is unexpectedly little space under the deck. I had to come up with a different arrangement for the sail sheets and adjust the location of the rudder servo.
By reducing the length to approximately 60%, the sail area has decreased to 36% and the displacement to 22% compared to the original model.
This is because when increasing or decreasing the length changes linearly, the area changes quadratically and the weight (displacement) changes cubically.
I used 1mm and 3mm plywood (for the ribs) for the model. I glued everything with polyurethane glue, and the finished model was impregnated with diluted epoxy.
For the mast and spars I used carbon fiber tubes with a diameter of 6mm, 4mm and 3mm, the spar is made of bamboo.
The sails are made of Ripstop nylon.
The fin keel is made of 2mm aluminum, with a lead bomb it weighs 980 grams.
The hull of the model with full equipment and sails (without keel) weighs 1060 grams.
Surface treatment - nitro spray, deck and superstructures Revell colors. After much deliberation, I named the model MIAOW
More photos at: tomarack rajce net
Dear friends
I have to declare here...
If I had known in advance what problems I would have to solve, I would have probably built Emma in the recommended size (1 meter) as Gary Webb recommends.
On the other hand..the model fits in a bag even with a stand and fin keel + transmitter in a backpack..
To my surprise, it sails quite well even in very light winds, and I am happy with it.
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๐ฌ Re: Emily
9 months ago by
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๐ various electrical connection diagrams for two motors
11 months ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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HI,
I think I've already posted this here, but it never hurts to repeat it. On my Lulonga quarter-wheeler model, I use the connection according to Figure 7 with the difference that instead of a separate battery I use the BEC from the ESC. The motors are controlled on the receiver Th 3 channel and Ail 1 . channel via the V-tail mixer. So I can control the model with a single stick ( Th ). I have the rudder connected to channel 4 as usual. Of course, you can control the boat with just the rudder, but in my case, this is only of little effectiveness.
This connection with an external V-tail mixer seemed the easiest to me, but I was unable to program this connection option appropriately.
Basically, by moving the Th stick (channel 3) forward and backward, we control the power of both engines. By moving the same stick left or right, we control the direction of their rotationโit's similar to the ailerons on an aeroplane.
It's interesting - if I want to turn the model on the spot, I don't "give gas", I just tilt the stick left or right. At that moment (in my case) one wheel turns forward and the other one turns back (and vice versa) so the model stops and just turns.
greetings!!
Lulonga schema -wiring for my RC quarter wheeler,fog horn and siren switching via canal 2, prop servo switches microswitches, see color photo.
I wanted to add some articles in Word (doc) but they wouldn't open here.
Tom K
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๐ various electrical connection diagrams for two motors
11 months ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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HI,
I think I've already posted this here, but it never hurts to repeat it. On my Lulonga quarter-wheeler model, I use the connection according to Figure 7 with the difference that instead of a separate battery I use the BEC from the ESC. The motors are controlled on the receiver Th 3 channel and Ail 1 . channel via the V-tail mixer. So I can control the model with a single stick ( Th ). I have the rudder connected to channel 4 as usual. Of course, you can control the boat with just the rudder, but in my case, this is only of little effectiveness.
This connection with an external V-tail mixer seemed the easiest to me, but I was unable to program this connection option appropriately.
Basically, by moving the Th stick (channel 3) forward and backward, we control the power of both engines. By moving the same stick left or right, we control the direction of their rotationโit's similar to the ailerons on an aeroplane.
It's interesting - if I want to turn the model on the spot, I don't "give gas", I just tilt the stick left or right. At that moment (in my case) one wheel turns forward and the other one turns back (and vice versa) so the model stops and just turns.
greetings!!
Lulonga schema -wiring for my RC quarter wheeler,fog horn and siren switching via canal 2, prop servo switches microswitches, see color photo.
I wanted to add some articles in Word (doc) but they wouldn't open here.
Tom K
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๐ various electrical connection diagrams for two motors
11 months ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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HI,
I think I've already posted this here, but it never hurts to repeat it. On my Lulonga quarter-wheeler model, I use the connection according to Figure 7 with the difference that instead of a separate battery I use the BEC from the ESC. The motors are controlled on the receiver Th 3 channel and Ail 1 . channel via the V-tail mixer. So I can control the model with a single stick ( Th ). I have the rudder connected to channel 4 as usual. Of course, you can control the boat with just the rudder, but in my case, this is only of little effectiveness.
This connection with an external V-tail mixer seemed the easiest to me, but I was unable to program this connection option appropriately.
Basically, by moving the Th stick (channel 3) forward and backward, we control the power of both engines. By moving the same stick left or right, we control the direction of their rotationโit's similar to the ailerons on an aeroplane.
It's interesting - if I want to turn the model on the spot, I don't "give gas", I just tilt the stick left or right. At that moment (in my case) one wheel turns forward and the other one turns back (and vice versa) so the model stops and just turns.
greetings!!
Lulonga schema -wiring for my RC quarter wheeler,fog horn and siren switching via canal 2, prop servo switches microswitches, see color photo.
I wanted to add some articles in Word (doc) but they wouldn't open here.
Tom K
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๐ various electrical connection diagrams for two motors
11 months ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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HI,
I think I've already posted this here, but it never hurts to repeat it. On my Lulonga quarter-wheeler model, I use the connection according to Figure 7 with the difference that instead of a separate battery I use the BEC from the ESC. The motors are controlled on the receiver Th 3 channel and Ail 1 . channel via the V-tail mixer. So I can control the model with a single stick ( Th ). I have the rudder connected to channel 4 as usual. Of course, you can control the boat with just the rudder, but in my case, this is only of little effectiveness.
This connection with an external V-tail mixer seemed the easiest to me, but I was unable to program this connection option appropriately.
Basically, by moving the Th stick (channel 3) forward and backward, we control the power of both engines. By moving the same stick left or right, we control the direction of their rotationโit's similar to the ailerons on an aeroplane.
It's interesting - if I want to turn the model on the spot, I don't "give gas", I just tilt the stick left or right. At that moment (in my case) one wheel turns forward and the other one turns back (and vice versa) so the model stops and just turns.
greetings!!
Lulonga schema -wiring for my RC quarter wheeler,fog horn and siren switching via canal 2, prop servo switches microswitches, see color photo
I add some articles related to the topic.
Tom K
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๐ Help with wiring 2 motors please
11 months ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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Hi Alessandro,
I did it...see> how to >various electrical connection diagrams for two motors <
I had problems with transferring images, basically, my entire post is there, it is possible to join it and add your comments and other useful diagrams... I put the wiring for my RC Lulonga quarterwheeler too. I am sorry, I don't have a better graphic design at the moment.
Tom
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๐ various electrical connection diagrams for two motors
11 months ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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HI,
I think I've already posted this here, but it never hurts to repeat it. On my Lulonga quarter-wheeler model, I use the connection according to Figure 7 with the difference that instead of a separate battery I use the BEC from the ESC. The motors are controlled on the receiver Th 3 channel and Ail 1 . channel via the V-tail mixer. So I can control the model with a single stick ( Th ). I have the rudder connected to channel 4 as usual. Of course, you can control the boat with just the rudder, but in my case, this is only of little effectiveness.
This connection with an external V-tail mixer seemed the easiest to me, but I was unable to program this connection option appropriately.
Basically, by moving the Th stick (channel 3) forward and backward, we control the power of both engines. By moving the same stick left or right, we control the direction of their rotationโit's similar to the ailerons on an aeroplane.
It's interesting - if I want to turn the model on the spot, I don't "give gas", I just tilt the stick left or right. At that moment (in my case) one wheel turns forward and the other one turns back (and vice versa) so the model stops and just turns.
greetings!!
Lulonga schema -wiring for my RC quarter wheeler,fog horn and siren switching via canal 2, prop servo switches microswitches, see color photo
Tom K
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๐ various electrical connection diagrams for two motors
11 months ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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HI,
I think I've already posted this here, but it never hurts to repeat it. On my Lulonga quarter-wheeler model, I use the connection according to Figure 7 with the difference that instead of a separate battery I use the BEC from the ESC. The motors are controlled on the receiver Th 3 channel and Ail 1 . channel via the V-tail mixer. So I can control the model with a single stick ( Th ). I have the rudder connected to channel 4 as usual. Of course, you can control the boat with just the rudder, but in my case, this is only of little effectiveness.
This connection with an external V-tail mixer seemed the easiest to me, but I was unable to program this connection option appropriately.
Basically, by moving the Th stick (channel 3) forward and backward, we control the power of both engines. By moving the same stick left or right, we control the direction of their rotationโit's similar to the ailerons on an aeroplane.
It's interesting - if I want to turn the model on the spot, I don't "give gas", I just tilt the stick left or right. At that moment (in my case) one wheel turns forward and the other one turns back (and vice versa) so the model stops and just turns.
greetings!!
Tom K
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๐ Help with wiring 2 motors please
11 months ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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HI,
I think I've already posted this here, but it never hurts to repeat it. On my Lulonga quarter-wheeler model, I use the connection according to Figure 7 with the difference that instead of a separate battery I use the BEC from the ESC. The motors are controlled on the receiver Th 3 channel and Ail 1 . channel via the V-tail mixer. So I can control the model with a single stick ( Th ). I have the rudder connected to channel 4 as usual. Of course, you can control the boat with just the rudder, but in my case, this is only of little effectiveness.
This connection with an external V-tail mixer seemed the easiest to me, but I was unable to program this connection option appropriately.
Basically, by moving the Th stick (channel 3) forward and backward, we control the power of both engines. By moving the same stick left or right, we control the direction of their rotationโit's similar to the ailerons on an aeroplane.
It's interesting - if I want to turn the model on the spot, I don't "give gas", I just tilt the stick left or right. At that moment (in my case) one wheel turns forward and the other one turns back (and vice versa) so the model stops and just turns.
greetings!!
Tom K
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๐ฌ Re: 5. Old Stern wheel steamer
1 year ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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Hi,
I was a little surprised that one of the options is for your model to turn into a submarine.
Well...it's been almost 50 years since I got the plans for the sternwheeler Chaperon from a friend in the US. I remembered...and planned to build that model.
American river sternwheelers generally had a low hull and shallow draft.
Given the construction materials I had available, I was worried that the model would be too heavy.
Therefore, I started calculating how much displacement the model would have - and it scared me quite a bit. It turned out to be very low for a model length of around 120cm.
To ensure sufficient draft (+ sufficient reserve), the draft of the model would have to be increased at least 2x - regardless of the similarity to the original.
I don't know what draft you're counting on for your model, and I don't know if you've already tried putting your model in the water (maybe first the hull itself without the superstructure).
Try to at least virtually recalculate the displacement and then compare it with the weight of the superstructure and all the equipment.
I solved this problem with some of my models (e.g., Ned Kelly) by adding (gluing and laminating) a polystyrene foam board of suitable thickness to the bottom of the model so that the displacement of the model increased.
It's barbaric, but the model floats and you won't know it on the water anyway.
I hope you have a nice model, not a submarine!!
I didn't build that model in the end for various reasons.. I like it.
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๐ What makes a Good Jib?
1 year ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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Maybe too heavy canvass for such little sail,inappropriate cut.
Try using a lighter material and instead of sewing, stick the edges of the sails with double-sided tape. You can find many instructions online.
I wish you success.
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๐ฌ Re: 5. Old Stern wheel steamer
1 year ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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I may have already written about it here, but now the Australian site for modelers building paddle steamers should be available again.
www.paddleducks.co.uk
You will find a number of interesting articles, plans and instructions there
When I built my paddle steamer I chose the "Australian" type... simple construction, good access to the steam engine - the engine room is usually open, similar to the paddle steamers on the
Mississippi.
When I was inserting text into the post, it disappeared after I inserted the images. So I'm repeating myself here.
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๐ My newest sailboat project
1 year ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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Hi gents, thanks for your help.
I use Libreoffice writer and the Czech keyboard.It seems that special characters are not very well understood when inserting text directly into the editor in MB.I am attaching the same post as .doc and .pdf documents.
The attachments contain text that I originally copied and pasted into MB.(with problems)
It can be seen that inserting this new way is without problems. I used a free program to convert to .pdf
>pdf 24 tools< https://tools.pdf24.org . However, the .doc format also transferred without any problems .
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๐ My newest sailboat project
1 year ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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Hi gents,
thanks for help. Sorely I use LibreOffice Writer and Czech keyboard mutation..something went wrong.
I'll try to insert the post as a separate text now. I'll see if everything is transferred correctly.
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๐ My newest sailboat project
1 year ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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to RNinMunich > Many thanks for the correction and help!!!
I was not able to copy the math formulas from my editor correctly. How did you do it please?
to jumpugly > Scale Conversion Calculator .. interesting and helpful !!!
Greetings
Tom
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๐ My newest sailboat project
1 year ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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to Ronald ..>oh yes, the lead bulb weight for my 60 cm model based on calculation 748g
for your model 28" will be lead bulb then 3 400(grams) x( 0.72x0.72x0.72)
3400 x 0,37 = 1258 g =
to AlessandroSPQR> .My lead batteries have reached the end of their useful life, so for my larger boats (Lulonga, barges) I use Li-Ion bat 3S1P12.6V, Models with ESC+BEC. For Minikitty NiMH Eneloop AAA 1.2V (min 750mAh) , for this my new project probably Eneloop AA 1.2V(4 pieces in a simple holder). These batteries are intended primarily for industrial use, they are very reliable.
There are also rechargeable Li-Ion 1.5V - I have them in my Canon camera.
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๐ My newest sailboat project
1 year ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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You will use a slightly different procedure when choosing a model based on a large pattern.
We will use as the pattern the scale 1:200 =>(1/M)
Your model must be a reduction of this model (whether it is a motorboat, steamer, or military ship, always in a certain scale).
This default scale is the same for all dimensions of a large ship.
However, it is always true that lengths decrease linearly, for example, the scale M 1:200 means that all dimensions are divided by 200, and your model will have 1/200 the length of your representative. The optical appearance is absolutely the same as your model.
Areas โ decrease quadratically, with the square power => 1/Mยฒ=>1/200ยฒ
1/200ยฒ = 1/200x200 = 1/40 000
this means that 1mยฒ of the original => 10 000cmยฒ /40 000 = 0.25 cmยฒ
in scale M =1:100 then the area is 1/10 000 of the original, 1mยฒ is then 10 cmยฒ large
The same formula is used to calculate the area of โโsails.
Volumetric measures and weights are reduced cubically, with the third power.
1/200ยณ = 1/200x200x200 = 1/ 8 000 000
in scale 1:100 then it is only 1/1 000 000
A model in scale 1:200 whose model has a displacement of 10 000 t => 10 000 000 kg
then has a displacement of 10 000 000 / 8 000 000 = 1.25 kg
in scale 1:100 => 10 000 000 / 1 000 000 = 10 kg
Basically, only take into account the DISPLACEMENT !!!!.
This is mainly given for military ships, and only sometimes for others.
Regarding speed, the following relationship applies: Vm = Vo / โM
Example: Vo = 20 km/h
M = 1:100
then for model > Vm = 20 (km/h) / โ100 = 20/10 = 2 km/h
= 33.4 m/min
=0.56 m/sec
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๐ My newest sailboat project
1 year ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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I would like to add a little theory here
Scaled down proportions, basic dimensions of original model = 100%
example on my model>
If Emma has length 1 meter, my model has length 60 cm => 60%=>L x 0,6 => 1x0.6 = 60 cm
sail area 3393sq.cm => sail area P/ 0.6x0.6 => 3393 x 0.36 => 1221.48 sq.cm,
ballast 3400 g => => P/ 0.6x0.6x0.6 =>3400 x 0.22 => 748 g .
Lengths are converted linearly, areas are converted to the square power, and weights are converted to the cube power.๐ค
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1 year ago by
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๐ My newest sailboat project
1 year ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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Hi, I see I'm not the only one building a scaled down copy of the RC sailing sloop Emma.
About a year ago I got 2 sheets of plywood measuring 60 x 40 cm from a friend. I didn't know what to use them for. It occurred to me that this plywood could be used to build a small model.
Some time ago, while searching the net, I visited the Bearospace Industries website again. It seemed to me that the scaled down plan for Emma could be used. When recalculating the dimensions, the length of the model came out to be about 58 cm, the side parts are just 60 cm long.
Currently, I have the middle part glued together - the fin box,and the parts are ready to be glued together.
A minor problem arose when recalculating the weight of the lead bulb - with the result of 750 grams at an estimated displacement of 1350g. There is quite a small reserve for the hull, rigging and RC equipment.
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๐ Paddle rpm
1 year ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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It is possible that I did not directly address the content of your post.
Forget Froudรฉ and Reynolds. I'm afraid there's a big problem with the theory in such models. You can theoretically calculate the length, speed, displacement from the scale of the model, but the speed of rotation of the wheels is too dependent on the design and efficiency, which can't be determined in advance.
More about paddle wheels rpm .. I also recommend you take a look at the website, www.paddleducks.co.uk ,
, which is mainly intended for paddle boat lovers.
Tom
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๐ Paddle rpm
1 year ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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As for me and my models with paddle wheels, I think it is necessary to test the optimal speed setting, which depends on the size of the model and the design of the paddle wheels.
The lower limit is calculated from zero rpm, the optimal working speed of the wheels also depends on the type of ship - calculate around 80 - 150 rpm. In no case should the steamer sail at the speed of a racing boat - but I saw that on the video too.
For example, my model of the Lulonga steamer has, in my opinion, an optimal speed, as if you were walking at a slow pace.
It is built in 1:32 scale.
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๐ part13
1 year ago by
๐จ๐ฟ tomarack (

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When I finished the model, I was very excited and immediately took it to the lake in the park to test it out.
I didn't even have a fin with a 3 kg lead bomb at that time.
The model looked very good on the water, but it didn't want to respond to the rudder at all when it was powered only by sails. Fortunately... I have an auxiliary motor in the model, so it was no problem getting it to shore.
I finished the fin keel and thought it would be fine - but it wasn't. In a short time, a friend took me to a regatta at the Vรฝrovice dam near Znojmo. After arriving, I completed the model and the next morning the race in the free category started.
The model swam to the start, and instead of starting to race, it just drifted sideways away from the start. First run - 0 .
Now all my construction mistakes were added up. I had to come up with something quickly. The easiest thing seemed to me to use a large outer jib sail on the bow instead of the original small one. After this modification, my Capricorn finally went out on the race course - even though it had no chance against the others. During the last run, the battery failed, and I only managed to reach the shore from the starting point. This time it was a bitter end...
At home I put the model on the shelf and devoted myself to building other models. I only occasionally took the model to the water.
Gradually, however, I adjusted the rigging of the front sails. I left only the fore sail and only one - the big one - jib sail. Because there was little space to pull the sails when tacking, I made a new bowsprit 50 cm long - 10 cm longer than the original one. The model now behaves as expected.
I wondered why the model didn't want to sail under sails the first time. The answer was probably the simplest...my mistake when building the model, when I placed the fin right behind the main mast. According to experienced modelers
it should have been at least 3" ( 7.5 cm). The center of gravity of the sails was thus above the center of gravity of the side surface, instead of being a little in front of it.
There was probably another option - to lower the mizzen sail, but that didn't occur to me at the time.
As an attachment, I am attaching photos of the model on the water...how it has progressed over the years.
If anyone has any questions, I'd be happy to answer them.
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