Very nice model, indeed!
I made the hull of my model about 1 cm deeper, mainly because of the weight of the homemade paddlewheels.
I also have problems with the strong wind, the model behaves as if it were sliding on ice. I think it would help to glue several longitudinal strips to the bottom, which would serve as a keel.
Hopefully it could help.
Tom

Some more of my articles about Lulonga you can find here

forum/117431#130896

Hi Mike,
as Alessandro wrote, the best is , when you can take a motor with an already integrated gearbox and proper DC engine . Mainly 12 DC , due to the usual battery voltage used in the model. It is necessary to choose a type of motor with an appropriately selected speed (150 - 200(300)rpm max.
By controlling the motor via ESC, you can simple choose the proper
low rotation speed.

I found Tamiya gearboxes, they are used for example in tank models, but I don't have any experience with them

http://www.snailshop.cz/146-prevodovky-tamiya

As to geared motors, I used similar engine to this one from Snail Instruments. They are small, with sufficient power, and an appropriate gear ratio can be selected. Of all the offered modifications, I liked the "pololu" 12V DC version the most.
The transmission from the motor to the paddlewheels is by means of a toothed belt.

https://www.rajce.idnes.cz/tomarack/album/rc-model-lulonga/627007917

https://www.rajce.idnes.cz/tomarack/album/rc-model-lulonga/549939641

More info you can get on > www.paddleducks.co.uk, it is an Aussie link for all paddle steamer modellers.
Unfortunately, a number of Aussie links have been unavailable lately, I don't know what's going on.
the process of building my model can be found here >

https://www.rajce.idnes.cz/tomarack/album/rc-model-lulonga

http://www.snailshop.cz/prevodove-37-mm-pololu-12v/2963-30-1-metal-gearmotor-37d

Hi gents,
it's been quite a while since I built a Lulonga model. An acquaintance from Australia sent me the plans, and I was just as intrigued as you. The only thing I would change about the model is its length. If you build it, increase its length by at least 10". There is a problem with the longitudinal (weight) balancing of the model.
The model is controlled either by the rudder (but it has little efficiency) or by independent control of the paddle wheels. I simplified this control by controlling both motors with one stick by connecting the V-tail mixer between channels 1 and 3.
1- Ailerons,3- Throttle.The model sails slowly, it is not a racing machine. As it is, it is able to turn practically on the spot. Engaging Ailerons helps by turning one wheel forward and the other backward when turning in place.
To improve the impression I use a "steam sound unit", a siren and a fog horn.

https://www.youtube.com/user/tomarack/videos

here is next link

To Ross .. Is it the one or similar. The width of the tape according to the size of the sail. I used such tapes mainly when gluing Ripstop material, both for gluing parts together and for gluing edges. My friends mainly use this technology. We use mainly
3M tape 4 - 5 mm overlap. I even use this tape for gluing boltropes to big cotton sails for model and for gluing boltropes in general.
You can find many similar tutorials on YouTube

Tom

Hi,
for a similar procedure, it is recommended to use double-sided adhesive tape, it is best to glue on a shaped mat, where you can ensure the permanent shape of the sail.the procedure is published on the net.Of course, the molded parts of the sail are glued directly together .This eliminates sewing.
Tom

e.g.

Hi,
as I can see .. much ado about nothing...

But now the main question - probably should have been asked at the beginning -
Alessandro .. I still don't understand why you still don't want to recognize just the spritsail as the mainsail for Thames sailing barges....
To your pictures..
The mainsail, as you describe it, is the mainsail of just and only a few types of single-masted ships(for example, the mainsail of cutters) and then of schooners, brigs and brigantines, which carry fore-aft sails on their mainmast. In other cases it is only and only a Gaff sail, as opposed to Yard sails, which are called square sails.

Gaff is a spar which extends the head (or upper portion)of a (square) fore-and-aft sail.
The sail suspended by gaff is called a gaff sail !
The foot of the gaf sail can be extended by boom or can be free, like at barges .
Sail booms take their names from sails, they extended, as the main,mizzen, or spinnaker booms.
The Sprit, in modern sailing craft, is a pole set diagonally across fore-and-aft sail to extend that sail by the peak.
Sprit sail (it is in Holland > spreet< ,then this applied to small boats is used with conjunction with a foresail . This combination is called > sprit and foresail rig < which at big barges is pecuilliary adapted.
In the end - I helped myself here with a Dictionary Of Sea Terms from A.Ansted in my statement. Otherwise, I really ran out of all the arguments.

Tom

Hi Alessandro, thanks for the interesting explanation, but I'm afraid there's a big misunderstanding here.
First of all..it's a shame you can't argue with Mr. Ivor Bittle, who was a great theoretician in all things sailing.I will try to find at least some of his texts.
So, the way I see it - I think you're confusing the sail's function with its design in this case....
I recommend that you familiarize yourself with the terminology used among bargemen. I myself discovered that it is quite different from everything I have known so far - and without his knowledge, we cannot come to an agreement..
What I mean by this is that the main sail of most Thames barges today has a spritsail design...you have to accept that the MAINSAIL HERE IS USUALLY THE MAINSAIL SPRITSAIL..

But now a little history..
* The spritsail and leeboard are both of Dutch origin. The rig was certainly employed in Holland as far back as 1416, and some of the early Thames barges had it by 1600
The rig developed slowly and by the end of 18 th century > the usual sail plan still consisted of foresail* and mainsail ,the latter a spritsail. With increasing length of hull an extra sail was needed to assist in handling and about 1800 mizzens were added. The mast was stepped on the rudder post . These sails were small and little of driving power . Later the mizzens were stepped in-board and made larger to balance the increased head sail of later craft.* (Handbook of sailing barges by Cooper and Chancellor).
* The sailing barges from the south-east could be broadly clasified into types by their cargo capacity,dimensions and rig , all reflecting the requirements of the trades for which were built.
The „stumpies“ were the smallest of these basic types and retained the original and simple rig of the Thames spritsail barge into the 1930s.
Average dimension 70ftx14ft x 5ft load draft. The „STUMPY“ rig was a foresail , a sprit mainsail fitted with brails , and a small mizzen sheetet to the top of the rudder.Some stumpies did not have a mizzen.
The next larger size of sailing barge worked generally between the Thames and Medway rivers
and to the many small ports on the adjacent coasts of the counties of Essex,Suffolk and north Kent..
Many were rigged -when less bowsprit - with foresail*, sprit mainsail, topsail ,and staysail. Next were rigged with jib set on bowsprit which could be topped up and large mizzen, which was stepped well forward,reducing the mainsail and topsail to a size suitable for crew. The mizzen was often set from a standing gaff and was fitted with brails. This rig was known as „MULE“ (Mullies) (e.g.Cambria),the term the coasting sailors and fishermen applied to any hybrid rig or hull form.*(Barges by John Leather).
Some similar size coasting ketch barges had a gaff and boom mainsail and mizzen, then they were „BOOMIES“.

I would like to say that if anyone has specific questions, if I can, I will be happy to answer them.
In any case, I would advise the builders of Thames barge models to familiarize themselves with the corresponding literature, which is mainly available in England, before construction. Then they will at least have a basic overview and avoid trivial mistakes. I didn't have that option right from the start, so my models have a lot to perfect... I just happened to come across the AMBO website, and thanks to my friends, the result wasn't a complete fiasco...

Thanks luckyduck, a friend said that one becomes an expert with age. I really don't know.
But I must emphasize that without good friends I would not have become a small expert. I was really helped by the Thames barge model builders - Kim Holland from the Isle of Man, Peter Simmonds from the Isle of Wight, Richard Chesney and (the late) Ivor Bittle. Thanks, friends.
Tom

Mainly for Alessandro - spritsail on barges is always mainsail ..
Next for others.. you are well aware that in creating a model we have lost the real-life ratio of the volume to the surface area of the hull, and the relationship between the sail area, hull volume, and wet hull area.
Large barges usually have a box-shaped hull, which itself is quite heavy with great initial stability. This allows them to sail under full sail even when empty, without cargo.
Still, without resort to complicated calculations, etc. most model bargees decide to add a keel. Visual examination of the barge profile (all scales) shows that this is also the position that the leeboards occupy when lowered, so if it was a good position for the full size barge builders, then it’s probably good for us modellers too.
The use of movable leeboards is nice to watch for onlookers, but it has practically no effect on the navigation of the model (I tried that too)- and besides, you can't see it on the water anyway (without binoculars)..
of course.. it's up to the model builder what features they come up with on the model.
I, for example, had trouble even teaching my model to sail the way it should, and to imagine that I should still check what and how it works on board during the voyage -I really can't do it.
And then there are those that believe that model barges should not use keels, leads or extensions. If only we would be satisfied with true scale wind and speed, then we’d probably get away with that. The last newsletter reported a barge racer not using a keel or lead, he finished, in third place. Maybe he was a poor sailor, who knows, but he didn’t win, a barge with a keel did. Maybe we should have a new class, keelless and leadless and see what happens.
My model Capricorn (bowsprit class) is built on the basis of plans for Champion class (similar to sb Giralda) M 1:24 - the second model Gusty Cat (staysail class) according to plans for sb Lady Daphne 1:28, the smallest, Minikitty according to simple plans for sb Kitty (Model Boats April 1999) reduced for Footy class.
​

Here I present a few more interesting sketches of paddle steamers from Central Africa.I tried to color something.I have read that this type of ship has an unusually raised bow, mainly for overcoming waves over the bar (at river mouths into the sea.)

Allesandro ,
Even our little Bečva can sometimes be big... even bigger...

Some pictures from the construction of my Lulonga model.
I found this plan on the internet.. I put it here as info( source unknown..) If anyone is interested in building this model, I recommend increasing the length of the model by at least 4"-8", due to the longitudinal balance of the model and directional stability.
I simply did the centering and alignment of the paddle wheels by pushing a long steel rod with a diameter of 4 mm through all 4 bearings, and only then glued the bearings in place. Then I could use split axles (Ø 4 mm) , for each wheel separately. I used a toothed rubber strap to transmit the movement from motors.
Due to the model speed, the paddle wheels (Ø140 mm) have a resulting speed of approximately 100 - 120 rpm.The hull has a simple box shape with a rounded bilges.

I found another modification of the ESC connection in a model with an external mix.
As I wrote, I normally have the rudder control on channel 4 on the Lulonga model, and I only control the direction with the motors. Even so, the model is unusually agile and can turn almost on the spot. But I think that for classic sidewheel steamers, this connection with the connection of the rudder servo into the mix can additionally increase the maneuverability of the model.

What do you think about the model >> John Fitch rowboat< ?

This American inventor invented this method of propulsion even before the invention of the ship's paddle wheel
You will find a number of interesting links on YouTube and the Internet.
An article about this model was published in the magazine > Marine Modeling International < , September 2013, under the title "The Beast". This America´s first power boat was a 34-foot craft,model is 5 feet long, about 1 foot wide and 6" deep.

​Look up details

something for paddlewheelers fan>a slightly different other steamer..

>

paddle propulsion steering complex by SEATECH

https://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6113.0

https://img20.rajce.idnes.cz/d2003/7/7200/7200686_2372fd2ee5ca1f63da2da7161469f2

Here are my contributions to the mentioned issue on the paddleducks site

https://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6228.0

http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/RC_model_Lulonga

https://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6336.0

http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6113.0

http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6228.0

http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6227.0

http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6336.0

http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6336.15

Hi Allesandro,
it's too many questions at once.
So - Lulonga has a rudder (for me on channel 4) but it is placed under the inclined stern, and it has been tested that it works only with little efficiency, so I practically do not use it.
Location - I live in a small town Rožnov pod Radhoštěm, Czech Republic, Europe. The river Bečva flows through it. It is, as the experts say, a mountain-type river, for you it would be more like a stream.. We were here on the river with model Lulonga > 49.463001, 18.147153 The first photos - the lake in the park with my Capricorn model, the last photo - I think it's the place in Bečva where we were with model Lulonga.
I also run model boats on the small lake in the park, which is a little bit next to the footbridge. I have no other choice at present.
Angled Paddle Paddles - I covered this in detail on www.Paddleducks.co.uk which is mainly for paddle steamers. In the original, the inventors claim that wheels shaped in this way have better maneuverability.

Just a small sample of what a real boat looks like with a similar drive to my Lulonga model...

Hi Allesandro,
it's been more than 10 years since I started building the Lulonga model. I won't tell you exactly how I finally solved the problem. Anyway, I had an external BEC in the model from the start. I don't know now if it's still there, I haven't had the model on the water for several years. I think I have this module now in spare parts, but the RC assembly works, so the connection from the ESC to the receiver via the mixer exists. I'm not sure if I disconnected the jumper from one BEC or not. Anyway, it works without problems. I have RC apparatus HKT6A, 6 channel. 2.4GHz.
I still adhere to the principle of > if it is not broken - don't repair It !
Tom
(Tug Boat) Lulonga quarterwheeler
Scratchbuilt,plywood, balsa, PSH/two ESC,two el motors GM37 - 150 rpm(snail instruments),two independent paddlewheels 140 mm dia,steam engine sound module, fog horn module,el. device siren 12V,
Tx/Rx six-channel HKT6X 2,4 GHz. (Motor: 12V geared 150 rpm) (ESC: DSYS 28 DCRS) (5/10),V-Tail mixer.

You can take a look on Youtube
RC model Lulonga C , steering with V-Tail mixer 1(

Hi:
I have just heard that Nerys passed away... I did not know him personally, but he always had a word of encouragement, support and help. Rest in peace,Nerys.

It seems that private messages are not working lately

To wmbc40
As to Kitty model .. it is your choice......

To luckyduck > write me please > tomarack@seznam.cz
Tom

Hi,
As for the old plan on the sb Kitty, I think it's quality only suitable for building a small toy for fun. So - I am also building it for this purpose. The plan is simple, practically without the necessary details.
In addition to her, I have scratch- built 2 large models in 1:24 scale - the Capricorn model, according to the modified plan of H.I.Chapelle, very similar to the sb Giralda, and another model according to the Lady Daphne plan (1:28).
I am attaching a copy of my plan for Capricorn here.
I can recommend here pls>

https://www.modelboats.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=131302&p=1

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1036890286476399

https://www.facebook.com/groups/2659272094133382

Hi,
According to Figure 1, on my Lulonga quarterwheeler model, I use the wiring with a V-Tail mixer.
Even though I have the option of mixing in the transmitter, this connection seemed simpler to me. In addition, the options and method of mixing in the transmitter did not suit me.
In the V-tail mixer manual, you can see two servos, in my case, instead of servos, I have two ESCs connected to the motors. On the transmitter, I have a V-tail mixer connected to channels 1 + 3 (Ailerons + Throttle) as I wrote earlier. Now I control the model with only one stick - Throttle (3. channel) forward and backward, by tilting the stick to the left or right, the mix of Aillerons is mixed in, so I use the motors to control the direction as well. If the model is standing, then using only AIL the model can turn around in place. Controlling the model is thus very easy. Of course, I can also steer the model using the rudder, but this has little effect on this model.

Tom

Hi,
I am giving some examples here.

here (fig 1) you can control the model with only one stick too(e.g. put throttle to channel 3 , rudder to channel1(ailerons)
I really don't remember where I found this on the net
I finally managed to find a comment, probably from RC Groups
I found it interesting,but there were difficulties in placing the document on these pages.
Tom
Due to several people asking similar questions, some diagrams to help make things easy to understand.

image 2, having a BEC enabled ESC and a seperate battery pack,
you will notice here that the red wire in the tri-color servo lead falls short of the rx, this is to symbilize its removal from the plug. don't snip the wire carefully remove it and tape it back, that way you can still use it if you have to.

using a seperare battery on a bec esc can be used if your rx happens not to have BEC ability because its old, or you need to add a touch of ballast, why add lead when your ballast can be made to work for you.

Image 3, full BEC system one esc one motor.
BEC means Battery Eliminating Circuit, this means that the main battery that feeds your Electronic speed controller, (ESC), also feeds power to the rx though some in-built step-down regulator circuit. again this diagram depicts one propeller, this is usually used where space is an issue, such as in a converted lindberg trawler or other small model. Another issue is weight, such as racing boats where the additional weight of an rx pack may cost a second or two a lap because your boat is hauling a few more ounces than it needs to.

Image 4 Full BEC system with twin motors, one esc.
one esc and two motors, wired in parrallel, with a fuse off each motor. not everyone has multi channel boats, some people still have 2 channel AM systems but may want to run more than one motor in their boats, this is the easist way to do it. wiring in parrallel means that should one engine stop working because of binding and so blow the fuse, (fishing line wrapped around the propeller is a usual cause), the iother motor should still be able to bring the boat home, though the operator will probably suffer some handling issues. using series wired, where the electricity flows through one motor then through the other would have just one fuse, one stalled motor would pop that sole fuse and so leave the boat in need of rescue.

Image 5, twin escs with bec esc's and rx battery.
This sort of layout is often found where the transmitter has on-board mixing, and usually found on larger models where space isnt an issue, such as 1/35th scale tugs and bigger boats, up to something like a 1/96th scale tico or burke type warship. the single battery may be because you want the physical space inside for fitting of working features, gas powered bb guns for the RC combat people, or things like working sirens, or your battery may be quite large to start with anyway.

Image 6 is identical in laypout except it has two batteries in parrallel to double the run time or the main battery supply is also being used for lights etc

As with any BEC equipped ESC, if you are using a seperate battery pack remove the red wire to prevent damage to reciever

image 7, mechanical esc, one motor
yes mechanical type speed controllers, or relay type like those by Electronize may not have a BEC system, so need to have a seperate battery supply for the RX to work,
image 1, twin esc's with a mixer
if you have no on board mixing on your radio and wish to make your twin screw boat perform like its real counterpart, you can do this by adding a V-tail mixer, this device normally found on aircraft links the two esc's, in this case BEC type such as Proboat tornado 50 or Viper15's with their bec wire removed from the servo plug because you are using a seperate power source.
to do this, you are best having more than 4 channels on your radio set, both tx and rx, a typical set suitable for this is the Futaba 6EXA or Hitec Optic 6, or a Skysport 4, though you may have other preferences.

Fusing
You may notice on the diagrams, there are more than 1 fuse, the one on the motor side of the esc protects the electronics within the esc, so should your motor start to over-amp the esc, it will fail before the esc gets damaged. however should your esc develop a fault, the fuse between the esc and battery should pop, protecting the battery, especially useful if lithium polymer type batteries are your power source