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[Score: 5/10] 43"/7000g Capricorn Direct Drive Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HK ESC - Comments: Capricorn is model of Thames sailing barge with auxiliary electric motor.
Hi, for OSA gun armament look please at > AK 230 gun in Google, interesting link .. https://www.liveleak.com/view? i=8dc_1310664262 and rockets used for this class were Termit missiles > https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ P-15_Termit ( GRAU: 4K40, NATO: SS-N-2 Styx ) Tom
Hi, do not forget to ask Uncle Google > russian Osa class missile boat .. ..and Wiki, of course. There are two versions of AA armament. For further questions I will answer. Of course, there are some better drawings, unfortunately I do not have these . Wishing success Tom
Hi, very nice model, indeed!! I would greatly appreciate if you put photos your models, also on our website, designed for modellers and enthusiasts of Thames sailing barges .. => modelbarge.info < or > http://barge.homeunix.org/inde x.php/home I wish you much success in modeling !!! Tom
Hi, sorely I can not put the wiring diagram here, so please look at my album on Rajce , where I placed the wiring diagram!!! > http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz /RC_model_Lulonga/ I do not think you got the wrong V-tail mixer, you just need it put to wiring and properly involve. Therefore, I do not use internal mix at transmitter, and even and cannot program it ( therefore, I chose a simple mixer - it performed only simple mixing of signals, in my case Ail and Throttle , no damned programming!!) when connecting of engines because you have to program the transmitter to function properly. (Thr forward - backward) and canal -1 ("Ailerons" - adjust the direction of rotation so that when tilting the control stick left, right engine had more speed than the left engine, and vice versa) I have on Lulonga the rudder separately on channel 4 (on my model has a lousy efficiency), but it can be connected via a Y cable to output Ail, where one branch goes to the servo, the second branch to the V-tail mixer, or you can engage Mix, which lead the canal 1 Ail, a slave can 4 - Rudder - wants this just to try. Of course you can try a mix of programming of the transmitter, but I wanted first and foremost a simple electrical connection that works. Then, if you know how that works, then it is easier to try and programming of the transmitter. This I then used my second model, Thames sailing barge Capricorn > http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz /TSB_Capricorn/ At the end of this album I gave examples of wiring and mixes too. I made a simple table, and then tried what and how it works. But it is a control model sailboats. For your model table would look different. It depends on what type of transmitter you have. wishing success ! Tom
Hi, in my model quarterwheeler Lulonga I am using a simple V-tail mixer from HK , each motor has it´s own ESC ,I mix canal 1(Ail) and canal 3 (throttle). the direction of movement I drive with one stick Thr - forward and backward .Ail - left and right. Thr if it is set in the middle position and tilting the control stick to left or right to the maximum to ensure that the motor is rotating against each other, and the ship that turns virtually in one place. wiring diagram > please look here > RC model Lulonga river tug - Posted: 5th Jan 2014 by tomarack http://mdlbt.com/12361 https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=iS6F8y60BAU https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=tr59Ipalx9g
Hi, I´m back . As I can see .. two-pole socket is designed for insertion of a crystal, ( quartz oscillator prism 35 MHz) not as a supply battery - this also may cause misunderstandings. This arrangement was customary for facilities of 80 and 90 years of the last century with interchangeable crystals. wishing success Tom
Hi, Unfortunately, I do not know this type, and at the net is a range of products from Sanwa - can you write which number sanwa type Rx you have,please? for 2,4 Mhz sanwa Rx has - minus at outer pin, plus at the middle , and signal at inner pin ,(see picture) I think, it is possible for 35MHz too , but it can be a question. As there are some more RX ´s .. so seek the answers for your type. Try Uncle Google with proper question ( e,g, > sanwa receiver compatibility )
Hi, because it is a ship model forum , I would like to add , that after a general agreement the frequency of 35MHz is primarily intended for model aircraft and for ship models this is 40 MHz. Modeler with his boat model to 35MHz in our country considers to be a reckless pirate. If by chance your transmitter operates on the same frequencies, and close air modeler accidentally tuned to your channel, you can cause air model disaster , which is several times more expensive than your ship model. Tom
Hi, this is my last model, thames siling barge on its maiden voyage,October 2, 2016. Preparation for construction of barges - Fall 2013. I have not chosen according to what plans I will build. I bought plans for TSB Lady Daphne, finally I chose but I have other plans. On the Internet I found an information plan barge "Champion class" from H.I.Chapelle. Even though I had prepared and cut out the ribs on the LD (1:28, Loa 98 cm), I finally began to build a "Champion". Loa 110 cm. More photos and a description to> http://barge.homeunix.org/inde x.php/home < It still remains to be done many details - winches, dinghy, and more. Also, set the the sails just sewn just for a test.Everything I wanted to finish through the winter Tom
As I have this elder transmitter , I needed to set new parameters using t6config. This program worked well on older versions of Windows, up to WinXP. Now I have Win 7, and there were problems connecting to a PC, lacked the necessary drivers. I solved the problem installing CP210x USB to UART Bridge VCP Drivers the address for download > http://www.silabs.com/products /mcu/pages/usbtouartbridgevcpd rivers.aspx (Windows 7/8/8.1/10 Download VCP (5.3 MB) (Default) ) wishing success Tom
well .. I do not use practically the rudder, because in this configuration on my model is practically ineffective, even though is still working on can 4 - Rudder. Due to difficulties in setting internal mixer of the transmitter for 2 motors, I chose an external V-tail mixer; it struck me as easier to adjust.I had always had constant problems with the engines, it turned out at the end that it was defective ESC on one of the two engines.I had to buy two new esc, but from a different manufacturer. The system then worked ok, so I did not need to change the settings.
I have on my model Lulonga quarterwheeler control the direction by changing the speed of individual motors. I use an external V-tail mixer and mix Throttle (can 3) and ailerons (CAN 1). Without problems, one control stick. I think it's more convenient, than mix rudder and throttle.(Rx = HK6A 6 can.) > https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=iS6F8y60BAU if I thr. stick in neutral and lean it to the left or right, the motors have a reverse operation, and the model turns nearly in one place. I use sound mixer module connecting before steam sound unit , on the water just as big a difference can not be heard. You can of course use connecting the sound module with Y cable. This is in my sailing model boat with "iron topsail". I switch it over relay, thus imitating the sound of starting. Tom
I have to say, my first live steam model (sorely the last steam model)was Ned Kelly, aussie type paddleboat model. Aussie paddleboats have as a rule open engine room, it is very convenient for access and control of the steam engine and boiler tuning. When I choose the type Wilesco D52, I chose LPG heater instead of using the tablets for heating. More infos about this model you can find at > paddleducks.co.uk < where are plenty next informations about models of paddleboats. Tom
As to Wilesco steam engine.. What concerns the steam engine,it is but rather a toy. I had a machine equipped with a double geared (total of about 8: 1) , simple paddlewheels about 150 mm dia. and the model sailed fairly quickly, I could not complain. Great pain but steam boiler, which corresponds to more use in toys than the RC model. It has useful content to about 0.2 liters of water, which lasts a maximum of 8 to 10 minutes, with risk of bursting welds. Must then be LPG and the water replenish. The little gas cartouche got heat during operation and it can not be fulfilled again quickly. So I replaced original LPG tank with a large cartouche with a valve of a camping stove, and used the nozzle of a small gas solder. This brought next troubles.. My Wilesco D 52 used a Bunsen burner type, and therefore it is difficult to adjust the unit with new nozzle , and may then fire model. It also happened to me. So it happened... Fortunately, I was expecting a similar opportunity, so I entire engine room and above the ceiling of the superstructure capped with aluminum foil. (This would also recommend to other modelers) I fire quickly extinguished and that there are no damages. It was not a perfect solution, I'd recommend a more professional boiler containing at least 0.5 to 0.8 liters with integrated LPG heating... but think instead about the new steam engine, although the actual steam engine by Wilesco as an introduction to the steam community suits well... It is nearly all.. wishing success! Tom
hi, as I have already answered a similar question on paddleducks, splush the sound of blades, hiss sound is generated electronically steam unit, connected in series with ESC engines (another Lulonga model page 4 there)
Hi, according to my experience (the last time with model Lulonga River steamboat) I would recommend a geared motors with the maximum speed of around 150 rpm for Graupner paddle wheels Ø 140 mm. I use a simple external V Tail mixer - throttle for speed, and mix ailerons for ESC. I can so with a single stick to control both speed and direction. The rudder for my Lulonga model is inapplicable , as to classical the steamer ,the rudder will surely have better efficacy. On my first live steamer Ned Kelly(australian type, wheels mounted on a common fixed axis), I had only controlled the rudder, the model was quite handy;rudder but was somewhat larger.On a boating exam, I used substitute wheel from plywood (graupner wheels I got up later).The model was 115 cm long (o.a) Wishing success Tom
RC model Lulonga , control with V-tail mixer (1.channel -Ailerons and 3.channnel - Throttle) with only one stick (thr) Model of quarterwheeler Lulonga.Smilar ships sailed along African rivers, were built in the UK, France and Germany.Usually they used to be smaller paddle steamers with a little draught.
Today Lulonga River steamer passed further navigation tests after replacing the ESC.(the new ESC are from HK...), working well, The electronics work reliably, problems with stability again, but this time with a transverse stability. Since the superstructures that I built are quite heavy, and the model also has a flat bottom, so setting up a balanced position is very sensitive, and somehow I can not. I try to stick around under the bottom of the line model, additional load. Perhaps it will also help the exchange wheel https://youtu.be/tr59Ipalx9g http://youtu.be/T-GNZ3Qzq1A some more Lulonga photos (also other than the model) can be found atl) can be found at > http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz /RC_model_Lulonga
Hi, I recomend repeatedly to put your question to paddleducks.There you could certainly find modelers, who have experience with models paddlesteamers and can help with your problem. My model Lulonga has two Independently driven wheel, each has Its own ESC. Driving Is a double ... classic rudder control but especially ESC ..drive back and forth Is controlled via Throttle position on transmitter, using a Y cable. This allows the trimmer to adjust the speed .. optimally 90-150 rpm. Adjusting the speed of motors to the same value terms set by a trimmer on the transmitter. Own control direction Is a mix throttle with "ailerons" channel (1 and 3). This allows you to change the speed of each wheel Independently on Throttle position and thereby control the direction of navigation. . It Is even possible to change the sense of rotation, so that the wheel rotates against each other. This ship turns almost on the spot. A wheel diameter of my Lulonga Is 150 mm. A similar problem like yours, I did not met personally. next ..and perhaps your main problem may be that you can not mechanically practically ensuring that each wheel had the same number of turns .. Each motor has the same Input voltage slightly different speeds .. and without trim It Is Impossible to adjust. Additionally .. the question Is the size of the model. As regard to speed of paddle wheels (rpm) I think It Is practically negligible, If any blade touches the water before the blade wheel on the opposite side of the model.... maybe you need a proper trim then. Paddle wheel drive model has Its own specific problems. The main problem Is, that the model has a closed paddlebox . It happens that the water, Instead of being driven backward, Is suctioned Into paddlebox ,rotates similarly as In the pump , and model practically do not move. Help .. proper area of holes In the paddlebox side panels (at least). Lulonga has louvers fixed at the back of paddlebox . My first paddleboat was australian type steamer Ned Kelly(live steam propulsion 115 cm long hull, hull breadth about 20 cm without paddleboxes). Her superstructure was too high and and a relatively small breadth of the hull caused great Instability while sailing - the breadth recommended at least 25 cm. When I removed the superstructure, Improved stability, then model sailed with straight keel very exemplary. had the wheel of simple construction made of plywood, very effective .. though not as nice as yours at your model. I have model ,at present , quarterwheeler Lulonga(see gallery, the long article about model building you can find at Paddleducks) . She has also the paddlewheels of my homemade construction, nevertheless very heavy. Her stern sits very deep In the water The model Is about 75 cm long, but due to the structure and shape of the hull would be good If and Its length was at least 85 cm. I have a problem lengthwise balancing model. Tom
Hi, I believe, plenty of Interesting questions and answers about paddle boats you can find at > www.paddleducks.co.uk < forum specifically for modellers and models of paddle steamers of all sizes and types Tom