The acrylic sealers seem to work well. Johnson's Floor Wax, Vallejo clear gloss, ect. After applying gloss sealer, over spraying with Acrylic dull coat then works nicely.

Westward,
First off and without being snotty, what kind, nationality ect, deck guns are you looking for? 1/14th is an off scale. That said there are numerous designers of 3d fittings that are, most likely, more than happy to scale their product to your needs.
If you give more specific information as to the weapons you are aftr, I will happily steer you to a few appropriate designers.

Rowan,
Those Chinese ESc's are a bear. So are the motors some times.
I like your solution of simply using a switch. Are you using a reversing electronic switch in the boat?

Ron,
I think that she sails very nicely. I would make one point. I think that you mentioned abeing able to sail in a fairly high wind speed. Remeber scale.
I build in 1/48th and as such natural condition sometimes work to my advantage. That said, real wind speeds can be deceptive. Scale them correctly and you find yourself trying to sale in a hurricane.

Ron,
You are asking two inter-related questions. The length of the fin and the amount of weight required on the end of the fin.
The weight will, in part, be determined by the lenght of the fin. The longer the fin, the less weight required, and visa versa. Therefore, the lenght of the fin, your choice, seems to become the determining factor tin the amount of weight required. How much do you want her to draw? It becomes a matter of leverage.
As for specifc numbers, I ain't no navel architect.🤣

Stan,
I did see that FD had hull plans for the Texas, a New York Class BB. The follow-on class to the Wyomings. Dimensionaly they are quite close, only 11 ft differece in length and a few ft in width. Draft was the same. Building her in 144th scale would mean, if my math is correct(doubtful) that there would be about a 1/4" difference in lenght between a NY and a Wyoming. Just a thought.

Sorry Stan, But I have struck out as well for Wyoming's stations. It seems that even NARA does not have them. I'll check with the Smithsonian and I have one other possibility, but don't hold your breath.
Jonathan

While FD may not have the plans in the scale you desire, they can be enlarged or reduced at a photo shop.
Otherwise, you will find the plans you need here:
https://floatingdrydock.com/MasterPlan.htm

https://floatingdrydock.com/MasterPlan.htm

🔗

Nick,
There are two answers to your question, yes and no. A lot depends upon the capacity rating of the ESC and the current draw of the motor under load. Ideally, the ESC should be over capacity. It should be able to handle any current draw from the motor if the motor were to stall, ie, wrap in weeds, run into a rock, or if you were to lock the shaft, ect. The ESC should also be protected by a fusable link to protect it and the motor.
Back to your question, if your ESC has a capacity of say 40 amps, and your motor draws about ten amps at stall, then yes you could use smaller wire. If your motor draw were say 25 amps, then I, personally, would use the same size wire as the ESC. Manufacturers are notorious for rating ESC's according to their standards, not a universal one. Better to be safe.
Lastly, wire size is not the only factor in a wire's capacity. The number and size of the conductors that make up the wire are critical to it's capacity.
I you err on the safe side you will be far less likely to have problems in the future.
Cheers

Withonly two exceptions, all of my other boats run multiple motors independently. I simply put a throttle on each vertical stick of my radios. I do have the advantage of being able to mix the throttles so that, except for docking or emergency manuvers, I can run both motors off one stick. Frees up my other important hand... the drinking one.😁
As previously mentioned, do make sure that you disconnect one of the red power leads of one of the ESC's( only if they are BEC equipped).

Les,
Graham is correct again. Most radio battery packs are realy designed and sufficient for powering the receiver and servos only. As soon as one adds more servos or, as in your case, relay switches, the battery pack becomes insufficient to satisfy the needs of the system.
A long time ago, in my first class on basic electrical systems, my teacher said,nad I paraphrase, "always start at the battery because 75% of the time, that is where the trouble is". A great lesson learned. 😀

Good thought Graham.
I would also suggest checking the voltage required for the switch, if possible. I say this because on many current radio systems, the receiver side of things, are now designed to operate on from5 to 7.2 volts or more. My new BEC's are selectable to that range.
I have another thought. I have run into this situation, where a dedicated switch channel does not send a signal at the full range of signal width that is available on , say, proportional channels. If I recall correctly, a similar situation occurred with an electronic switch. I pulled many a hair, they weren't gray back then, and some how stumbled upon the answer when I plugged the switch into a proportional channel. Of course, that didn't work still, but when I added the trim button range, viola, the switch worked. I am not saying that this is the case here, but an option.
You may also have a bad relay, solder connection on the board, or many other possibilities.
With luck, your battery pack meeds charging. If you have a BEC that you caan power your receiver pack with, that may be worth a try as well.

I do believe that the unit is series wired. It can be wired on the positive or negative side of the battery circuit. Personally, I would apply battery + to common, then it is your choice regarding whether you want the circuit to be normally on(closed) or open( off). Then when the switch is energized, the circuit respondes accordingly, ie, the circuit closes(turns on) or opens (turns off).

Pete,
Yes. I seem to be developing a brain finger interchage problem... or it could be age related, or just plain uncoordiated two finger typing.... 🙄

1/48 scale destroyer, lead ship in a class of 175 built.

PM sent

All quite true Lew. While model boating in the Northeast was never to most popular hobby, it has certainly seen a significant die off over the years. I attribute a substantial amount of the loss of interest in the tme and expense involved.

At least you all across the Pond have models shows. On this side they are bgoing the way of the Local Hobby Shop., almost extinct. I have noticed more cars are creeping in when a show does take place, especially over boats. I think there are two reasons for that. first, the number of ready to run wheeled models compared to boats is huge. The other reason is more a financial one. it is easy and safe to set up a track for wheeled models, but having a pond available or setting up a pool takes lot's of $ and is more risky. The thought of a pool springing a leak scares organizers to no end. Tat and having to fund the purchase and transport of, say, 10,000 gallons of H2O is not going to happen. THEN, what to do worth the H2O after the show.
While none of these issues is insurmountable, in today's environment, organizers just say NO.
☹️☹️☹️☹️☹️

Colin,
The motors run on 24 volts and I am series wiring two 12 v batteries to supply the 24V. The 24 V pos (red Lead) from the battery goes to a junction block(not labeled), then thru telemetry modules to the ESC's and hence the motors.
cheers

Wonderful idea! I had not considered that. Thank you!

Daave,
Scroll down to my early post for the block diagram.
I thought about using SBUS for all the extra channels, but I had the receivers and I like the redundancy of multiple receivers. I use this set-up in my other models and am happy with it( ie, I am a dinosaur and slow to change).

Dave,
I'll try to answer all your points. I expect to use at least 3 receivers, but 4 are possible. This will give me 8 channels/receiver. I'll KISS it as needed. There are two drop down converters planned, 12 to 6 volt, and 12 to 3 volt. Again, as needed. The radio will be powered by the house 12V via 10 amp BE/VR's. Each of which can power 2 receivers. Depending upon the servo amp loads will determine the # of BE/VR's used. The ESC's are from Modelbau-Regler in Germany. I have use these numerous times and find them to be very reliable, absolutely silent and easy to program, when needed to be.They are 12-24 volt, 60A constant, surge to 100a.
Smoke units will be the oil type(Harbor Models) which draw about 2A max each. I have not fully decided upon the sound systems yet, so specs are in the air.
I attached a rough block diagram to my earlier post.
The V/A telemetry module are FrSky. They report voltage and amps used and the accuracy can be user selected. The connections are very simple. It series installs in the Pos and Neg leads from the battery. It then connects to the receiver via the SBUS and the module can be daisy chained together, they can be combined with other modules as well, ie, GPS, Altitude( although I do not expect to need that one😋). The radio will allow many modules to be used. My current thinking is one per motor, and one for the house battery draw.

Just to take the tease away from my previous post.
As many of you know, I focus on 1/48 scale USN builds. I have 2 Fletcher destroyers, and an icebreaker, to name a few.I haave always admired the Dido class of light cruiser and tried to find a hull for a build, but that fell through. next in line, and it is a very close second, is the Atlanta class light cruiser. There were two infamous ones, the Atlanta and the Juneau. Both were lost at the Naval Battle of Guadalcanal. The former was decimated by another USN cruiser and scuttled, while the latter was seriously damaged by a Japanese torpedo, but managed to retire. while retiring, Juneau was hit again in the same are by a submarine launched torpedo and disintegrated. 10 out of 650 crew survived, none of the 5 Sullivan brothers did.
My build is the Juneau. I hope to post a build of her. Please be patient. It will take time...

cjanik001,
Many Thanks. your answer is what I was hoping for.
Yes, I use circuit breakers and fuses extensively. I had not illustrated them.
I had considered the idea of tapping 12V off each of the series wired motor batteries, however I wanted to dedicate the motor batteries. As such, the "house" battery. Besides, I think that I will be adding ballast even after 3 or possibly 4 26amp/hr batteries are put into place.
My thought is to run a 10 gauge grd lead around the hull. My motors draw around 5a each at stall and the rest of te circuits are in the 1-3a range, if that. Many circuits will not be in use simultaniously, so I think I'll be safe.

Hi All,
I appreciate the feedback from all of you. here is my basic block diagram.Note that there are numerous sub-systems that will run of the House 12 V supply that are not yet added. They include R/C multiswitches, smoke systems, sounds systems, and LED's. I have not shown circuit breakers/fuses, and the S in the box equates to Volt/Amp telemetry modules.
My "plan" is to use two 12V batteries in series to supply dedicated 24V to the motors, via ESC's. All other requirements will be met by the dedicated "House" battery(s), 2 in parallel if needed.
What I am wondering, is whether I can run a common GRD, wire around the hull (11'4") and attach all neccesary GRDs to it rather than running masses of individual GRD leads back to terminal blocks. Also, should the 24v system be GRD'd to the 12v system as well?
Thanks again for your inputs.

Great subject Lew. Al Ross, who you no doubt know of, lives just down the road from me. I am sure he approves of your effort, as well as I do.

My new project will be using numerous voltages, from 24 down to 3 or less. Some of the devices, ESC's,buck converters, ect, will operate two voltages, the operating voltage and the regulated voltage. My battery sources will be 24(12 x 2 in series) and 12 volt.
My electronic know fits on a pinhead.
My question: should I common all of the ground circuits of the various voltages, or does this open another can of worms?
Thank you.

I think your planking looks fine. You can not really judge you final product until you have one, and I think yours will be fine. Rmember that Sequin was built with a lot of hand sawn lumber. Runs of decking will not be perfect. What is? with some sanding of the planking to remove glue stains, a bit of stain, maybe soem steel wooling, she look great. I don't know if they sealed her deck with varnish, I kinda doubt it, but it will make for a nice look and good water-tightness. I think I would suggest a satin on the deck while using a gloss on the hull and house. You might even consider steel wool after the satin, to break down any sheen.
She is you build...if you don't like the result, you can always paint the deck😊

Is that a nylon washer stuck to the end of your tube? Or is is a nylon bushing in the tube?
They make two types of syringes, Luer-lock and flusshing. The former is designed to accept a needle, the latter is designed to irrigate tissues. Try to find a small version of the latter.
I have also found that the grease should be a light weight grease, NOT a bearing grease. You should not have to warm the grease to fill the syringe, nor to inject it into the tube. If you use a bearing, or heavy grease and have to warm it to inject it, it will harden in the shaft and create extra drag on your shaft. remeber that the water is going to cool the tube, the grease and the shaft. DRAG. A light weight teflon bearing grease will seal the shaft and lubricate the the shaft in the tube with minimum drag.
My last point is that if you use a heavy grease, it will be so much harder to remove it when the time comes.😀

I think that you are referring to the stuffing box, one of many terms to describe the tube supporting the shaft where it transits the hull. There are numerous ways to seal the "stuffing box/shaft tube". I have used these three. Many of my 1/48th hulls require a shallow angle for the prop shaft, some are even even with the keel. I do not have leakage.
Perhaps the easiest method is to make the tube with bearings in it, they should all have bearings to reduce the drag on the shaft. Adding an oil or grease tuve to the "box" allows sealant(oil of grease) to be added when needed. it also provides lubrication, although so does the water.
A second method is to use a manufactured(or homemade if you are up for it) "box" that has an o-ring in it. The o-ring seals the shaft, without too much drag, while te water lubricates the o-ring. These work well also.
Third system I'll mention is one I use on my submarine.Cup seals, miniature versions of oil seals found on your car's crankshaft, work very well. They can be harder to find, but are/were available in fittings to silicon to the "box" or they can be fitted in a homemade arrangement. ONE Drawback, they need to be exposed to water all the time to keep them cool and not burn up the fine sealing lip.
I think choice 1 is your best and easiet option. A homemade tube is easy to make with a couple sizes of brass tubing soldered together. Add a grease tube to it and you should have very little or no leakage.
There are many ways to achieve what you need. Hopefully others will chime in a swell.