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RAF crash tender refurb
Hey folks, I know this subject has been done before but I thought I would share some images of a refurbishment I am undertaking of a 34โ RAF crash tender (maybe Aerokits?). I am doing this one for a friend of mine and I picked up the boat about three weeks back. It wasnโt in terrible condition to start with but the paintwork and installation layout did leave something to be desired. The previous owner was also clearly a fan of milliput as well but this was not up to the job of holding the propshaft in as I discovered the hull filling with water when I floated it
So far I have:
Stripped the hull back to bare wood
Fully glassed the outside
Resin coated and painted the inside
Made new motor, battery and servo mounts
Reset the propshaft and rudder
Added new spray rails
Am building new cabin roofing
Primed the hull exterior (pics showing it fully painted were before I went to work on it with Paint stripper, which was a horrible task!)
Some of the hatches have been made
Cabin roofing painted
Have started repainting the hull
Will add more pics as it develops in the coming weeksโฆ
Trident73
11 months ago
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Perkasa (SLEC Kit)
Have been making this for the last six months and it was ready for โsea trialsโ yesterday. The kit is sold by SLEC here in the UK and is a wooden built up hull. The hull is glassed inside and out and has been painted with spray (rattle) cans - principally primer red and Ford Polar Grey. Still have to make up some of the kits such as the deck guns and hand rails and of course add the torpedoes.
Trident73
1 year ago
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Italeri Vosper MTB. Converted to RC
Took a couple of years to figure this one out. Cut part of the deck to make it removable and then inside (before I glued the rest of the deck on) I made battery trays / motor mount etc from GRP sheet. Small 1400kv brushless motor and a 3blade 25mm brass prop. (It does a very scale 200mph at full chat)
The mast is GRP sheet as well with some of the kit parts added. The masts fore and aft are brass tube. I did all that to make them more robust to the odd knock.
Trident73
1 year ago
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Recent Posts
๐ Wordle of the Day?
41 minutes ago by
๐ฌ๐ง Trident73 (
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In threeโฆโต๏ธ
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๐ Brushless setup
3 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง Trident73 (
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I did a setup with a shark esc recently.
Ensure receiver is bound first to the transmitter
Turn on tx
Put throttle to high
Connect main drive battery
Return throttle to neutral after first beep
Wait for startup tones
It should then work โnormallyโ
Stay clear of prop though throughout in case it runs up!
After that it should all be fine and you can next time just turn on tx and connect battery. The first time you are basically teaching the esc the โhigh pointโ of your throttle range
IF it runs the wrong way i.e goes in reverse instead of forward then simply swap over two of the three wires from the esc to motor. Do NOT reverse the throttle on the transmitter
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๐ Wordle of the Day?
15 days ago by
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In 4
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๐ Battery's
18 days ago by
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Iโm not 100% sure on this one but my understanding was that Lipos can better withstand the higher discharge loads that a brushless motor will place on the pack. Like I say, I am not totally sure and others will certainly know better but you may find that your voltage under load drops more with a nimh and that the pack discharges a bit faster than with a lipo. Personally I have only used Lipos with my brushless setups.
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๐ aerobats crash tender
19 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง Trident73 (
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Hiya. Take a look at my harbourโฆ I restored one of these last summer and documented the process. I fitted an Emax 2815/09 using a 3s (11.1v) lipo and a 35mm X prop. Flies along. If you cannot find that motor on ebay or wherever then pretty much any 35mm brushless motor of 1000kv to 1200kv would be sufficient I would say. A basic guide is that the higher the kv then the smaller the max prop size, but equally if you lower the voltage to say 7.4v then you can increase the prop size a bit. Hope that helps. Oh, do use a substantial coupling as a plastic huco type will fly apart with a brushless motor.
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๐ฌ Re: Brushless motor sync problems
22 days ago by
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Hi Alessandro, i just saw in your message that the three fuses are on the three motor wires between the motor and esc. I had not realised that until now. I had assumed they were battery side between the esc and battery, although I guess that would not do much... I would still say definitely to get rid of them (just my opinion). Imagine a situation where one fuse blows and the other two dont. They would not save anything and the ESC would still send signals to some of the windings causing a rapid stuttering of the motor and probably โmagic smokeโ to escape the ESC
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๐ฌ Re: Brushless motor sync problems
22 days ago by
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Another Q, sorryโฆ. Are you using good quality silicone insulated wire (eg such as the stuff on your ESC and Motor) to hook up your fuses, and do they have good quality soldered joints to the fuse holder terminals?
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๐ฌ Re: Brushless motor sync problems
22 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง Trident73 (
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Another thought (this has bitten me in the past). Double check your motor mounting screws are not protruding too far into the back of the motor case and touching any of the windings.
Also, make sure your system knows where your top of throttle is. Usually this is done by connecting the battery with the transmitter OFF then turning ON the transmitter with the throttle set to MAX. After the first โbeepโ lower the throttle and you should hear normal startup tones.
Goes without saying to stay clear of the prop while you do this in case it starts. Also some ESC brands may have different procedures for calibration of the throttle range
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๐ฌ Re: Brushless motor sync problems
22 days ago by
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Just personal preference but in a brushless setup I have never used a fuse, assuming that you have spare capacity in the esc and that the battery has the โcโ rating to deliver the necessary current it should not be necessary.
One other thought springs to mind - might be worth double checking that no foreign object (screw / washer etc ) has found its way into the motor can and stuck to one of the magnets on the rotating can. That would induce noise, balance issues and other problemsโฆ ๐ค
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๐ฌ Re: Anteo
22 days ago by
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Lovely model ๐๐ป
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๐ Wanted: Can I commission you to build a boat? UK based
23 days ago by
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Jamesmay. I saw this ad in the back of RCM&E (rc planes magazine). No idea if โTomโ has any experience with ships and boats or offers a build service for marine models but it might be worth a phone call to seeโฆ?
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๐ฌ Re: Brushless motor sync problems
23 days ago by
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Best investment i ever made when i got into brushless for planes was to buy a watts up meter. Connect inline between battery and ESC and it shows you the power output of your system (Watts) and importantly, current draw (A) The fact that your fuse holders have melted tells you the system is under stress and way too much heat is being released. Without knowing the amps (current draw) I would suggest going with a smaller prop and a smaller battery. 5s (~18v) is a lot of power, were you running around at the top of the throttle range for that 15 minutes? Was the ESC very hot? Was the propshaft free running or was it locking up under load, as that would also generate heat in the system.
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๐ฌ Re: Italeri Vosper MTB
25 days ago by
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Hi Alessandro, yes in static trim it is a little low. I can probably use a smaller lipo and could probably afford to drop to 2cells (7.4v) rather than 3 (11.1v). That would help at the cost of a little speed. A test to do next time I take her outโฆ
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๐ฌ Re: Maiden voyage
25 days ago by
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Hiya Alessandro, thanks for the comments. On the day I only hooked up one battery to the motor, but the plan would be to use a parallel connection to the others next time. I am sure it could sail for longer than 45mins. By the time the rest of the build is done I guess I will probably be down to two batteries and some lead for ballast as the fittings will all add up in weight terms.
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๐ฌ Re: Maiden voyage
26 days ago by
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Hi Doug, thanks for the heads up. On this case though everything has been glassed or varnished and the grey primer is a coat to show any imperfections of the glass coating.
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๐ฌ Re: Maiden voyage
26 days ago by
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Hi Boatshed. Yes I am in Sevenoaks but this weekend I was in Gloucestershire and that was a quiet section of the Gloucestershire and Shapeness canal. I had been paddleboarding with a mate that weekend and the worst case scenario was that we would have had to blow one up and go get the boat. We did have a case of a lost prop on one boat this weekend but I used the new tug to push the stricken boat back to safety.
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๐ฌ Re: Italeri Vosper MTB
26 days ago by
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Hi Ronald, yes it will go more slowly as well. The main problem I have found in that conversion was trying to make it light. The injection moulded plastic is quite heavy and by the time the running gear is in you are struggling to keep the waterline accurate. Mine is a bit on the heavy side and noticeable when it is static as it floats with the black lower hull a little too deep. Probably because i used GRP sheet inside it which I would change if I ever did one again.
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๐ Maiden voyage
26 days ago by
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๐ Italeri Vosper MTB
26 days ago by
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๐ฌ Re: Mast
2 months ago by
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Looks really smart ๐๐ป
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๐ฌ Re: Started on the superstructure
2 months ago by
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Thanks for the info Doug and Len. It all makes sense. I will have a think about whether I could replicate a sliding door perhaps ๐ค
Regards, Chris.
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๐ฌ Re: Started on the superstructure
2 months ago by
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Hi Ronald, no the woods in the kit are basically sapelli for the deck planks, Walnut for all the other planking and panelling and framing and some lime also.
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๐ฌ Re: Started on the superstructure
2 months ago by
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Thanks Doug and Wolle - I asked my dad about the door as well - he was a harbour pilot for his career and he reckons it would have been outwards as well or otherwise even possibly a sliding door. It makes sense what you say about pushing onto the weather seal ๐๐ป
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๐ Started on the superstructure
2 months ago by
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Now that the deck woes are finished (scraping down and revarnishing worked), I have made a start on the superstructure. I have to line the wheelhouse inside and out with strips of walnut. Should hopefully look nice when it is finished. I was pondering whether I could make the door functional - in real life would it swing inwards towards the cabin interior?
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๐ฌ Re: Zwarte Zee
2 months ago by
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Looks great ๐๐ป
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๐ฌ Re: Ulises
2 months ago by
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That looks awesome! Well done. I can only hope the one I am doing will be half as good.๐๐ป
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๐ฌ Re: It got worse ๐
2 months ago by
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I agree. I will persevere past it. I have already scraped the deck clean back to the wood using a half of a knife blade. I will check it carefully again tomorrow and then have a fresh go at finish coating it.
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๐ฌ Re: About to start the glass fibre
2 months ago by
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Hi Alessandro.Thanks for your compliment on the fibreglassing. I did a couple of coats of resin on the inside of the hull as well. On the inside there is no cloth however. Basically the hull is fully watertight inside and out.
Watch this space for updates on the deck ๐ the reaction has spread across the whole deck where I masked the deck off. I am going to sand it back and start over.
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๐ It got worse ๐
2 months ago by
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The longer I left it to cure the more the deck reacted. I think a full sanding and varnishing with something neutral/waterbased like the eze kote iswhat I am going to have to do now. Oh well, i guess modelling is 90% about solving challenges.
Update 24.05: the deck scraping seems to have worked thankfully. I have applied a couple of coats of really thinned down yacht varnish and all seems to be well so far. I think this coming weekend I will begin to make a start on the superstructure and possibly start the colour on the hull. I donโt know why but I donโt really want to paint it the box art colours so I am going to go with dark green and white above the waterline instead of the black that the box shows.
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๐ฌ Re: ยฃ&@@ยฃ#!!
2 months ago by
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Hi Wolle, no just at the edges where a particular brand of masking tape was used. I guess some of the adhesive residue must have been left behind. Am considering flat-scraping the edges with a razor blade edge when it has fully cured and then satin coating the edges again. It happened in places on the port side and all the way down the stbd side.
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