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💬 Re: On the water
2 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 (
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Hi Isaac… it was one of these. Only took a week to arrive in the UK from China.
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📝 On the water
2 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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Managed to get out and test the Occre Ulisis today. I added one of the super cheap plug and play sound modules that Garth mentioned in his blog post a week or so ago (from Aliexpress). Water was a bit choppy but I am really pleased with how she looks on the water.
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💬 Re: Modified Lesro Stiletto
2 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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That looks great!
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💬 Re: Jimwilder Tug diesel sound generator
2 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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Just ordered one. Will be interested to experiment with it…
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💬 Re: 99% finished
2 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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Many thanks RN - I dunno about Neptune, but I am very pleased with how she has turned out 🙂 Thoughts now turn to what to do next 🤔
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💬 Re: 99% finished
2 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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Thanks so much Doogle. Appreciated.
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💬 Re: 99% finished
2 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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Thanks Isaac, it has been a fun kit to build.
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💬 Re: 99% finished
2 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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Thanks DW and Alessandro. Appreciate your comments 👍
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💬 Re: 99% finished
2 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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Thanks Phil and Michel 🙏🏻
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💬 Re: 99% finished
2 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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Thank you Ronald
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📝 99% finished
2 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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I’m just waiting for the frame that supports the lifeboats to dry and then I can add those. Hopefully the next update will be of her on the water…
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📝 A bit more progress
3 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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I’ve been a bit quiet on the forum for a while as life’s other priorities are dealt with. On occasion I have found time to do bits and pieces on the tug however. I have pretty much finished the woodwork and am now awaiting a decent day to do some varnishing of the planking on the wheelhouse.
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📝 Hull painted
9 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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Well that is the hull done now I think. The green took several coats to get right. I decided Humbrol gloss #3 was a bit too bright for my liking so I mixed in some gloss black before I sprayed it until it looked about right to my tastes and I am quite happy with the result.
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📝 It has been a while
9 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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I have had limited time to build recently, but in the recent run of good weather I have made a start to the painting of the hull and superstructure on the Occre Ulises. All the paints are either Humbrol or Revell enamels and have been thinned about 40-50% for airbrushing. I still have to do another coat of the antifouling red and then I am going for a dark green upper hull to leave a thin white waterline between the two.
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📝 Fibreglassing a wooden hull
9 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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Regarding whether to use the cloth or not. This is just my preference but I always would as it has lots of pros… It is easy once you get used to it. It helps give a uniform surface. It adds a lot of strength to woods like balsa and other softer types (but if anyone is worried about protection from their boat being hit by another - well it wont really save you from that resultant damage depending on speeds etc). I guess ultimately it is up to yourself. If you are after a beautiful wood finish maybe avoid the cloth as in the right lights and on close inspection you can sometimes still see some weave. Like someone said earlier maybe best to do a test piece and see what you think after that. Best of luck with it whichever route you go 👍🏻
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📝 Fibreglassing a wooden hull
9 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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Hi Roy.
I use halfords spray paint (cans) over my glassed hulls also with no problems. I have also used airbrushed Humbrol enamels. No problems with either. I also tend to use the halfords grey primer ( several coats rubbed down with wet and dry) as a base coat regardless of whether I am ultimately finishing with enamel or other halfords colours.
I have never used pigments to colour any epoxy resin I have used so I cannot advise on that one I am afraid. Cheers.
I use halfords spray paint (cans) over my glassed hulls also with no problems. I have also used airbrushed Humbrol enamels. No problems with either. I also tend to use the halfords grey primer ( several coats rubbed down with wet and dry) as a base coat regardless of whether I am ultimately finishing with enamel or other halfords colours.
I have never used pigments to colour any epoxy resin I have used so I cannot advise on that one I am afraid. Cheers.
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📝 Fibreglassing a wooden hull
9 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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Hi roy, when i rub down the initial coat the first time it is just a very light touch done dry, just to knock any sharp high spots off. Ie where a glass strand may have protruded slightly or whatever . After that when i have put the second coat of resin on , yes I do that wet with a bit of washing up liquid in the water.
If you were resining without cloth, I am guessing it would be similar and you could go for wet sanding after a couple of coats of resin…
If you were resining without cloth, I am guessing it would be similar and you could go for wet sanding after a couple of coats of resin…
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📝 Fibreglassing a wooden hull
9 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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Hi. I do a lot of glass fibre covering on both boats and planes. I would use 0.6 oz or 1oz per sq yard weight cloth. Take a look at my blog of my occre ulises as it shows how i do it.
In a nutshell:
I use bucks composites resin or finishing resin from Zap./pacer
Once mixed i personally add a bit of meths to thin it.
Be precise with the mix ratios as the instructions specify. This is critical. I mix by weight and use a digital scale that i got off ebay.
Once I have mixed it I tend to let it sit for a few minutes, maybe 5, before I start to work with it.
Personally I lay the cloth on dry, having first made sure the surface of the wood is smooth and blemish free
I dab the mixed epoxy resin on with a bit of torn sponge. With fine cloths, if you use a brush you can snag and wrinkle it, hence the sponge and dabbing technique. You can also use an old credit card to scrape the resin around on the cloth if you are careful.
Once it is saturated i keep dabbing to remove as much excess resin as poss. You only need enough to get it to stick at this stage. Too much anf you will have a lot more rubbing down to do which should really be unnecessary. Looking along the wet cloth, if it is a sort of ‘satin’ finish then it is about right, if it is glossy in places there is a bit too much resin there and you can dab that off with toilet tissue (see below).
You may need to make small snips in the cloth in places where the curves are severe, but it is pretty good with compound curves.
I then use toilet tissue wadded up to dab any additional excess resin away. It will not stick to the epoxy in its pre-cured state.
The epoxy mix will be workable for about 30 mins. The warmer the environment the faster it will go off.
Let it dry overnight. I sometimes put my covered components in the airing cupboard where the HW tank is if it is a cold day.
Once dry and no longer tacky….
320 grit glasspaper to cut the excess off that overhangs the edges
A REALLY light sanding with 320 grit all over to remove any roughness. Not too much as you don’t want to sand off the cloth.
Mix some more epoxy resin up and paint it on or dab it on with another bit of torn sponge. This fills what is left of the weave.
Wet and dry sanding to give a glass like finish for painting
H&S: do wear a mask for sanding. You dont want epoxy and glass dust in your lungs!
Lots of youtube videos out there showing methods similar to described above.
Oh, one more tip. Get a box of nitrile gloves from amazon or somewhere. You will go through a lot of them. Use meths to clean up scissors and other tools.
In a nutshell:
I use bucks composites resin or finishing resin from Zap./pacer
Once mixed i personally add a bit of meths to thin it.
Be precise with the mix ratios as the instructions specify. This is critical. I mix by weight and use a digital scale that i got off ebay.
Once I have mixed it I tend to let it sit for a few minutes, maybe 5, before I start to work with it.
Personally I lay the cloth on dry, having first made sure the surface of the wood is smooth and blemish free
I dab the mixed epoxy resin on with a bit of torn sponge. With fine cloths, if you use a brush you can snag and wrinkle it, hence the sponge and dabbing technique. You can also use an old credit card to scrape the resin around on the cloth if you are careful.
Once it is saturated i keep dabbing to remove as much excess resin as poss. You only need enough to get it to stick at this stage. Too much anf you will have a lot more rubbing down to do which should really be unnecessary. Looking along the wet cloth, if it is a sort of ‘satin’ finish then it is about right, if it is glossy in places there is a bit too much resin there and you can dab that off with toilet tissue (see below).
You may need to make small snips in the cloth in places where the curves are severe, but it is pretty good with compound curves.
I then use toilet tissue wadded up to dab any additional excess resin away. It will not stick to the epoxy in its pre-cured state.
The epoxy mix will be workable for about 30 mins. The warmer the environment the faster it will go off.
Let it dry overnight. I sometimes put my covered components in the airing cupboard where the HW tank is if it is a cold day.
Once dry and no longer tacky….
320 grit glasspaper to cut the excess off that overhangs the edges
A REALLY light sanding with 320 grit all over to remove any roughness. Not too much as you don’t want to sand off the cloth.
Mix some more epoxy resin up and paint it on or dab it on with another bit of torn sponge. This fills what is left of the weave.
Wet and dry sanding to give a glass like finish for painting
H&S: do wear a mask for sanding. You dont want epoxy and glass dust in your lungs!
Lots of youtube videos out there showing methods similar to described above.
Oh, one more tip. Get a box of nitrile gloves from amazon or somewhere. You will go through a lot of them. Use meths to clean up scissors and other tools.
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📝 Wordle of the Day?
9 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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Was about to hit rock bottom when I got it on 5 😀
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📝 Wordle of the Day?
9 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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In three…⛵️
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📝 Brushless setup
9 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
Midshipman)✧ 60 Views · 6 Likes
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I did a setup with a shark esc recently.
Ensure receiver is bound first to the transmitter
Turn on tx
Put throttle to high
Connect main drive battery
Return throttle to neutral after first beep
Wait for startup tones
It should then work ‘normally’
Stay clear of prop though throughout in case it runs up!
After that it should all be fine and you can next time just turn on tx and connect battery. The first time you are basically teaching the esc the ‘high point’ of your throttle range
IF it runs the wrong way i.e goes in reverse instead of forward then simply swap over two of the three wires from the esc to motor. Do NOT reverse the throttle on the transmitter
Ensure receiver is bound first to the transmitter
Turn on tx
Put throttle to high
Connect main drive battery
Return throttle to neutral after first beep
Wait for startup tones
It should then work ‘normally’
Stay clear of prop though throughout in case it runs up!
After that it should all be fine and you can next time just turn on tx and connect battery. The first time you are basically teaching the esc the ‘high point’ of your throttle range
IF it runs the wrong way i.e goes in reverse instead of forward then simply swap over two of the three wires from the esc to motor. Do NOT reverse the throttle on the transmitter
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📝 Wordle of the Day?
10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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In 4
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📝 Battery's
10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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I’m not 100% sure on this one but my understanding was that Lipos can better withstand the higher discharge loads that a brushless motor will place on the pack. Like I say, I am not totally sure and others will certainly know better but you may find that your voltage under load drops more with a nimh and that the pack discharges a bit faster than with a lipo. Personally I have only used Lipos with my brushless setups.
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📝 aerobats crash tender
10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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Hiya. Take a look at my harbour… I restored one of these last summer and documented the process. I fitted an Emax 2815/09 using a 3s (11.1v) lipo and a 35mm X prop. Flies along. If you cannot find that motor on ebay or wherever then pretty much any 35mm brushless motor of 1000kv to 1200kv would be sufficient I would say. A basic guide is that the higher the kv then the smaller the max prop size, but equally if you lower the voltage to say 7.4v then you can increase the prop size a bit. Hope that helps. Oh, do use a substantial coupling as a plastic huco type will fly apart with a brushless motor.
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💬 Re: Brushless motor sync problems
10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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Hi Alessandro, i just saw in your message that the three fuses are on the three motor wires between the motor and esc. I had not realised that until now. I had assumed they were battery side between the esc and battery, although I guess that would not do much... I would still say definitely to get rid of them (just my opinion). Imagine a situation where one fuse blows and the other two dont. They would not save anything and the ESC would still send signals to some of the windings causing a rapid stuttering of the motor and probably “magic smoke” to escape the ESC
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💬 Re: Brushless motor sync problems
10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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Another Q, sorry…. Are you using good quality silicone insulated wire (eg such as the stuff on your ESC and Motor) to hook up your fuses, and do they have good quality soldered joints to the fuse holder terminals?
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💬 Re: Brushless motor sync problems
10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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Another thought (this has bitten me in the past). Double check your motor mounting screws are not protruding too far into the back of the motor case and touching any of the windings.
Also, make sure your system knows where your top of throttle is. Usually this is done by connecting the battery with the transmitter OFF then turning ON the transmitter with the throttle set to MAX. After the first ‘beep’ lower the throttle and you should hear normal startup tones.
Goes without saying to stay clear of the prop while you do this in case it starts. Also some ESC brands may have different procedures for calibration of the throttle range
Also, make sure your system knows where your top of throttle is. Usually this is done by connecting the battery with the transmitter OFF then turning ON the transmitter with the throttle set to MAX. After the first ‘beep’ lower the throttle and you should hear normal startup tones.
Goes without saying to stay clear of the prop while you do this in case it starts. Also some ESC brands may have different procedures for calibration of the throttle range
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💬 Re: Brushless motor sync problems
10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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Just personal preference but in a brushless setup I have never used a fuse, assuming that you have spare capacity in the esc and that the battery has the ‘c’ rating to deliver the necessary current it should not be necessary.
One other thought springs to mind - might be worth double checking that no foreign object (screw / washer etc ) has found its way into the motor can and stuck to one of the magnets on the rotating can. That would induce noise, balance issues and other problems… 🤔
One other thought springs to mind - might be worth double checking that no foreign object (screw / washer etc ) has found its way into the motor can and stuck to one of the magnets on the rotating can. That would induce noise, balance issues and other problems… 🤔
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💬 Re: Anteo
10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
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Lovely model 👍🏻
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📝 Wanted: Can I commission you to build a boat? UK based
10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Trident73 ( Midshipman)
Midshipman)✧ 63 Views · 4 Likes
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Jamesmay. I saw this ad in the back of RCM&E (rc planes magazine). No idea if “Tom” has any experience with ships and boats or offers a build service for marine models but it might be worth a phone call to see…?
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