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>> Home > Members > Trillium
Registered
12th Aug 2014
Last Online
13th Oct 2018
Trillium

Member Stats
Stats
Member No. 2991
Registered 12th Aug 2014
Last Online 13th Oct 2018
City Dundas
Country Canada
Boats in Harbour 0
Sailing Locations 1
Forum Posts 73
Photos Posted 44
Likes Received 93
Likes Given 3
136 Total Posts
Sailing Locations
Confederation Marine Modellers
Since: 27th Aug 2014
Harbour
Empty Harbour
Captain
Ranks Points
Fleet Admiral 1000
Admiral 800
Captain 600
Commander 400
Lieutenant 200
Sub-Lieutenant 100
Chief Petty Officer 50
Petty Officer 25
Seaman 10
Apprentice 2
Recruit 0
144 points away from Admiral!
Points
Activity Worth Awarded
Boats in Harbour 8 0
Forum Thread 5 25
Forum Post 2 146
Event 8 8
Photo Gallery 10 40
Photos Response 3 24
Video Post 15 15
Video Response 3 0
Build Blog 20 20
Blog Post 5 100
Blog Response 3 81
Sailor 8 8
Guestbook Post 8 0
Liked Posts 1 3
Received Likes 2 186
656 Total Points
Canada
Recent Posts
Empress of Canada 1961 by Trillium Captain   Posted: 14 days ago
I am interested in getting in touch with anyone who has built a sailing model of "Empress of Britain" or "Empress of England" to Vic Smeed's plan. I'd like to know if they built to scale draft, and if the model was stable and sat at waterline depth. Roy

Steam sound unit (variable speed) by Trillium Captain   Posted: 10 months ago
Eric, Here's another option to consider: http://www.modelsoundsinc.com/index.php I have three of these systems - not all in the same boat. Roy

Props by Trillium Captain   Posted: 10 months ago
This rotation question seems to pop up regularly. Probably for a model, rotation direction doesn't really matter, but one authoritative answer can be found here: http://modeltugforum.com/index.php?topic=5947.0, which quotes from the Ship Handler's Guide. To summarise the comments: Outward-turning propellers means the blades of the propellers are outward turning in the upper half of their circle of rotation, and, when viewed from astern, the propeller with the right-hand blades is on the starboard (right) side and again, when viewed from astern to drive the boat forward, it must rotate in a clockwise direction. This is the preferred arrangement on full-size ships because when using the props to assist a turn, i.e one prop pushing ahead and one pushing astern, the side thrust from the two propellers assists the turn. The attached image from www.slideshare.net may help. Roy

HMS Dreadnought by Trillium Captain   Posted: 10 months ago
I sympathise Norm. I contacted the Tyne and Wear Museum for plans of the "Empress of Canada". I would need 5 sheets, 4 at £42 each and one at £63. £231!!! Not economical for a retired model builder. Roy

MV TEAKWOOD by Trillium Captain   Posted: 10 months ago
It's looking really good. The superstructure front looks like the most difficult part of the whole model. What thickness of styrene did you use? Roy

lots of sanding by Trillium Captain   Posted: 10 months ago
The main advantage of Eze-kote may be its main disadvantage: it's water-based. As stated on the Great Hobbies website, "This product may be damaged by freezing. Shipping during periods of weather below zero is not recommended." So in Canada, shipping between December and May is not recommended. It does not state "Protect from freezing" on the bottle, but it would be helpful if someone who has tried it can confirm it's OK after freezing. There are 4 Great Hobbies stores in Canada if you are lucky enough to be able to visit and pick up the product. Roy

Prop Shaft Grease by Trillium Captain   Posted: 10 months ago
Doug, you are correct. Another CRAFT moment. Roy

Prop Shaft Grease by Trillium Captain   Posted: 10 months ago
Yes, if it is one of the type identified as "totally maintenance-free and watertight". Roy

Prop Shaft Grease by Trillium Captain   Posted: 10 months ago
Hi Dave, I guess I have not run my models long enough yet since I have had no wear in either shafts, bearings or seals. I did have one seal in a Raboesch assembly, in a twin shaft model, which didn't leak but seemed to be deteriorating. Raboesch supplied a replacement free of charge. I had used Goop adhesive to attach the seal/bearing cap so it was a 5 minute job to soften the adhesive with a heat gun and fit the replacement. Roy

Prop Shaft Grease by Trillium Captain   Posted: 10 months ago
Every time I see a post about lubricating a prop shaft I wonder why more people don't used sealed prop shafts, such as those made by Raboesch and others. It's clearly not an option if your model has the prop shaft already in place but for new construction it's a case of 'fit and forget'. I have not used anything else, ever. Is the extra cost the only disincentive to their universal adoption? Roy

M.V. TEAKWOOD by Trillium Captain   Posted: 10 months ago
It's one of the facets of scratchbuilding that is little talked about. It seems inevitable that undesirable features (I don't want to say errors) will occur and then there's some serious head-scratching about whether to ignore, cover up, fix (and how to) or start again. This is a great encouragement to others facing similar dilemmas to figure out a fix.

rotating radars off mast by Trillium Captain   Posted: 11 months ago
Dave, Thanks for the tip about using the stepper motors. I found some 6mm x 6mm motors on ebay which will be ideal for mast mounted radars on a future project. Roy

HMS Dreadnought by Trillium Captain   Posted: 11 months ago
Norm, Going by the picture you posted it looks like you are building the Dreadnought that was commissioned in 1884. Is that correct? Roy

HMS Illustrious Aircraft carrier by Trillium Captain   Posted: 12 months ago
Well up to your usual high standard,Norm. Too modest as usual, looks great. Roy

Klondike by Trillium Captain   Posted: 12 months ago
Great work. A superb example of how a scale model gives viewers a 3D view of something that exists now only in 2D images.

paddle tug Aid by Trillium Captain   Posted: 12 months ago
A really intriguing choice of model, and a great example of where inspiration can be found for a scratch-built model. I will look forward to seeing a picture of the finished vessel. I notice that the book does not contain any information on the hull lines; what did you use as the source for the shape of your frames? Roy

Lights all wired up by Trillium Captain   Posted: 1 year ago
Hi NPJ, You may find the reference here to LED's and resistors useful. Roy http://www.confederationmarinemodellers.ca/new-this-month.ht...

web site by Trillium Captain   Posted: 1 year ago
In view of Doug's experience, we contacted Godaddy. They advised us that we need SSL certification for our site. I'm a complete novice when it comes to website design and security but I learnt two things. One is that SSL is indicated by the green padlock and the 's' in https in the address bar. The second is that it's considered vital if sensitive information is being transmitted, such as credit card data, usernames and passwords, etc. And of course, SSL costs money. A scan of the list of clubs on this website showed that only one has SSL and they are using Google Sites, Google being actively pushing for SSL on everything. We are a group of model boaters whose website is simply making available for viewing some of our activities, we are not collecting anything from visitors. In conclusion, we will not be making any changes, and so McAfee users will continue to receive the message Doug reported. Roy

Sea Commander Ocean yacht by Trillium Captain   Posted: 1 year ago
Garth, no doubt that Graupner make excellent products but CAD$35 + shipping is a stretch. Especially when you can make up a double universal for CAD$10 with two of these. I've been using these for several years now. Roy

M.V. TEAKWOOD by Trillium Captain   Posted: 1 year ago
If I start a model using a fibreglass hull the first thing I do is bolt it down to a building board, just as RHBaker has done. Access to the bottom is not needed until painting, so the model can be worked on 'keel down'. I have two end boards that can be screwed on to the building board, and these allow me to lay the hull on its side, or upside down, and be stable, if I need to work on it that way. When the hull is ready for painting the holes in the hull are filled and sanded.

Light up the night by Trillium Captain   Posted: 1 year ago
Our club's 2nd annual "Light up the night" evening sail with lights on. The weather co-operated so it was dry and balmy after the sun went down. Lots of spectators on hand to enjoy the spectacle. Some boats were lit up like Christmas trees but others had the bare minimum navigation lights; at times navigating was a challenge.

M.V. TEAKWOOD by Trillium Captain   Posted: 1 year ago
I share your frustration with paper plans that stretch with high humidity, but never shrink back when the humidity drops, and stretch more when the humidity rises again. (One reason why drawing offices used to make tracings on mylar. ) I use paper plans as a guide or for measuring small dimensions. For larger dimensions I work from a digital file, using software such as GIMP (which is free) to take measurements - making sure that the digital image is to size !

web site by Trillium Captain   Posted: 1 year ago
Dave, I edit this site and have done since we set it up in February so I can hardly refrain from visiting it. It was set up using the Godaddy facility and, as such, is their responsibility to ensure security. Sounds like we might have made the wrong choice regarding host. Roy

web site by Trillium Captain   Posted: 1 year ago
Can't help you there. I, and others, can access it without a problem. Suggest you "accept the risk". Roy

Denatured Alcohol by Trillium Captain   Posted: 1 year ago
Here in Canada we are very happy that DNA is still available in the USA. It's not available here but fortunately a trip across the border solves that problem. Roy

34" sea commander Aerokits kit by Trillium Captain   Posted: 1 year ago
Garth, Don't forget that shipping charges, HST, and brokerage fees will likely double the cost to you. The good news is that it's fast; you'll get it in a couple of days. See you at the pond? Roy

battery charging by Trillium Captain   Posted: 1 year ago
Gentlemen, many thanks for all the feedback. To respond to Dave's questions first: the charger I have been using is an MRC Super Brain 989, and the recorder is an Eagletree Micropower E-logger V2; both are off-the-shelf items and not calibrated. I know there can be some discrepancy between the two, but surely not enough to explain the numbers? I cannot check the temperature of the battery. That will be affected by another variable - charge and discharge current, will it not? As Dave and Doug have pointed out, I made a very, very rough, simple, conservative calculation of mAh looking at the chart. I did not try to be mathematically precise. It was a number for me to explain my question of whether the apparent charge and discharge efficiencies made sense and could they be explained. I have learnt a lot from this exchange and, since I have already acquired 3 battery chargers over the years, I am reluctant to invest in another one only to measure battery impedance. Question is now, does future potential use of such a charger make better financial sense than simply throwing away the questionable batteries and replacing them. Decisions, decisions. One final question, what charge and discharge efficiencies would you expect from a new battery past its "running-in" duration? I am aware that mAh capacities are not based on any recognised standard, but I have been led to believe that the stated capacities of Panasonic and Venom batteries are more reliable than most. Thanks again, Roy

propshafts by Trillium Captain   Posted: 1 year ago
Doug, Regarding your comment, "Avoid using double jointed couplings, they waste power and create wear and noise". Can you please explain this in more detail? I have heard this comment before, but my experience has been quite the opposite. No noise, no wear (yet) and no noticeable loss of power, presumably evidenced by the couplings getting hot. Roy

battery charging by Trillium Captain   Posted: 1 year ago
Here's a conundrum that I'd like your thoughts on. I recorded some data on one of my boats now running on a couple of the battery packs that were cycled as discussed earlier. They are 6V 5000mAh NiMH packs which, after their final charge, showed they received 5500mAh according to my charger. For the subsequent run I fitted a recorder which showed the current consumption, as on the attached chart; typically 2.55A, with a maximum of 2.9A. A rough consumption calculation based on the chart, of 2.55A for 70 minutes, is a little less than 3000mAh. When I recharged them after the run, the charger showed they'd taken 3850mAh. Why the difference between the 3000mAh consumption, and the replacement charge of 3850mAh? The charge and discharge efficiencies are obviously less than 100%, but this data suggests that the two combined are only 78%. So, for example, if the two efficiences are equal (89%), if the charger states a charged value of 5000mAh, the battery has only accepted 4450mAh (=5000*89/100). When delivering the power, it can only put out 3960mAh.(=4450*89/100). Or in other words, only 78% of a battery's stated capacity is usable. Or is there a different explanation? Roy

Logos etc by Trillium Captain   Posted: 1 year ago
My preferred logo paper is the white waterproof adhesive-backed vinyl made by Papilio for inkjet printers. http://www.papilio.com/inkjet%20waterproof%20adhesive%20film... You may find a supplier in the UK - which is where I presume you are. A UV-resistant spray is all that is recommended. Its adhesive is far superior to that on waterslide transfer paper. Roy