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April 2018: 19 people March 2018: 13 people February 2018: 8 people January 2018: 25 people December 2017: 7 people November 2017: 13 people October 2017: 9 people September 2017: 6 people |
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Isn't it funny how I used my Crash Tender 53 years ago with 27 meg R/C and never ever had any interference problems. Now the fashion victims all want those ugly little cans from Mabuchi or brushless, suddenly the lovely old Taycols are unusable. Rubbish. If modern R/C is that fussy we haven't moved on at all. Maybe because I have an unbroken link to the Taycol and the Crash Tender I see no reason to just give in and use modern stuff I detest. I have never been a fashion victim and I am not starting now. I think this and any other model boats forum and I have reached the limits to our mutual usefulness. I'm off to do things my way. Where I've had help, thanks. Otherwise?............ Martin
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Dave, I'm not sure what your point is. I know all that stuff about Crash Tenders and I also know that 28 knots really isn't that quick! Lifting the front third (just) clear of the waves isn't saying much compared to a full on plane. It's all academic as almost nobody gives a stuff about scale speeds. Belt your MTBs around like demented ducks, but it looks stupid on a Crash Tender, as it does on tugs and warships that are too fast as well. Indeed, most people use speedboats too fast as well. Martin
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Boatshed, I would say the Taycol would suit the Sea Queen better as it's more of a cruiser. The Fire Boat needs some ooomph to get it on the step, as they say. If you have a brushless, use it in the big Crash Tender. The beauty of the Taycol coupling is that it simply works. It cannot NOT work. Been in my Crash Tender for 53 years, doesn't look even slightly worn! As to electronics, I just don't trust ESCs, whoever makes 'em and with Taycols you need somebody who understands lecktrickery, which ain't me, but Doug's an electrical man. You can see him trailing wires when he goes for a stroll. I have bought some supression condensors, but no idea where to put 'em! Cheers, Martin
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2 bolts one side, 2 tother. Good enough for Lotus Elan, GT6 Mk2 and early 3 and Hillman Imps. Absolute pigs to renew! Martin
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They tend to work OK on angularity, but not actual misalignment. I'm happy with slot and pin! Or those wonderful Taycol ones with two sections that have a rough square shape bashed into the ends, then a square stick in between. They help the Taycol famous noise which I love. Who wants silence anyway? Martin
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I did have the T-shirt, but wore it out on the staircase because I couldn't afford a speedboat as a kid! Martin
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Having once been the Editor of the Classic Motor Boat Association, yes, I have been at 30 knots. In my own Albatross. And faster than that in a Delta. It is like sliding down the stairs with your knees under your chin and your backside hitting every step. I've done that too. You keep talking about MTBs. I'm talking purely about the Crash Tenders. 30 mph is not that quick! MTBs were quicker. They were longer and much more highly powered. Probably why the Crash Tenders were only 2 in number and never saw real service, but they are so pretty! Martin
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Eagle for me. Martin
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Any 6 volt motor using gears, probably a worm set. Martin
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PT boats maybe, but Crash Tenders were not as fast. 30 knots isn't that quick and if they went everywhere on the plane they probably wouldn't have the fuel to get home! 2 Meteorite V8s are a very different matter to three Packards! pmdevlin, it's difficult to build heavy if you follow the instructions. Mine is built to Aerokits instructions , has a Taycol Supermarine and used a lantern battery (which Dad used to get for nothing) and it would do a nice scale speed on its marks. Martin
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Looks a good read, but not the one I was after. Thanks Haverlock, Martin
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Hi, does anyone recall that a few years ago, Model Shipwright magazine was available in digital form to download free? Now I can't find it. Even the inadequate annual version of the mag. died out when Bowen retired as editor. Now, something bearing the name is published as a blog and is a) largely American content and b) virtually unreadable. Martin
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Hmmm, well, Model Shipwright is some kind of car crash blog format that is virtually unreadable and maritime Models is an online only outfit. Both, therefore, gone as were. Model Shipwright had gone digital I believe a while back but I can't find it any more. I did download a few copies, but they were on my old PC and got lost. Thanks, anyway, Doug, but Model Shipwright never used to sink to the level of building a Midwest kit fer Krissakes! Martin
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Ah, my replacement copies of Plank-on-Frame Models have arrived. Indistinguishable from the copies I lent and never got back. I simply cannot be without these books. I've had them since I was wee loddy in Devon, when my love of quality model boats began. I was a member of the Thames Ship Lovers and Ship Model Society and got my first ever proper commission through them. Where are they now? They were one of the main London based clubs at one point, meeting in a Pub in the West End on a Tuesday night. I believe the magazine Model Shipwright came about through those meetings. Now, even that magnificent organ has gone. What is it about model boaters? No TSLSMS, no Scale Sail, no Model Shipwright. And no doubt Maritime Models has gone in Greenwich and Model Shipwrights in Putney. For a maritime nation all this is a disgrace. Martin
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Excellent. So now it's all up and running. That was a quick restoration too. Martin
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Brilliant! Yes they too use odd number threads. Martin
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Apparently, across the flats of 5BA should be 0.220". Martin
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I'll have a good look at my ones later and see what they measure up to, Doug. Wife's still sleeping so I can't make any noise for a while. Martin
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Oh dear, you don't. I suspect I'll have to find out what BA they are and send you some. Unless you know what size it is, in which case I can recommend a company called BA Nuts and bolts .co.uk I just got some 9BA nuts, bolts and a tap from them to suit the 1/16th" pivots I've made for the Vanity model. If youever wondered what used the odd number BAthreads, it's Meccano (3BA), Stuart Turner steam engines(7BA) and anything with a nice round 1/16th" (9BA). I have taps and dies for them all now! Do you mean to say that she doesn't have a growl when running. Maybe it's just the bigger ones. Martin
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Fantastic result, Doug, well done. I look forward to hearing that Taycol noise. I love it! Martin
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I have no luck drilling holes anywhere I want them. I bought a minidrill stand and find it only fits a square block Bohler drill, but with a little gizmo I made I can hold the hand piece of my pendant flexible drive. I went halves with my son on a pillar drill. It's at his place! I have an electric drill stand which does at least work well, but won't hold tiny drills. So.....I use a model railway rivetting machine on thin sheet metal and then file the pip off the back and open up the hole that's left with tapered broaches and then if necessary, a fine rat tail Swiss file. Silly, innit? But it's all that works for me. I have never made a wire wheel yet and never shall unless it's with photo-etched parts. Martin
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I lost four customers to 3D printing and that was when it was seriously shite! These days it can be quite good, so I'm waiting for the day when, having taken my newest trade of clay modelling and then technical illustration, the pootah will finally take even that simple relatively cheap work I used to do on slot car patterns. But it can't take wood away, so there's always that left I suppose. Martin
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Ain't nuttn cheap about Proxxon. I only got my Proxxon drill and transformer in a once in a lifetime deal! You have a 3D printer? Can you do the CAD for it? My son also has a 3D machine and does some good stuff using free files, but he's having luck with a thing called TinkerCAD. Martin
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The real ones barely planed, like most of their kind. Martin
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Oh, I don't have any luck with milling machines. If I did and could ever have afforded one I'd have made working model IC engines. Looks like the brushes are in good hands there. Martin
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Always best to drill the uncut metal in case it goes awry and because drill rarely go where we want them to, so drill first cut second, file against vice jaws to final shape/size. Good progress so far, mate. Martin
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Ah, good luck indeed! Show pics of new brushwork, pliz? Martin
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This one is (for you furriners) 80mm long by 50 wide. This is the tiddler between the roundhouse/tiller area and the companion aft. Then there's a bigger one forward of the companion and then a forward companion forward of the mast. Mast bitts, Samson posts for the bowsprit and prism bricks in the deck. Fortunately Vanity's deck was laid a la workboat, all planks parallel unlike most yachts. I shall pay for that simplicity when I deck Bloodhound. That has swept decks with mitred toeboards round every item of deck furniture, joggled into a King plank fore and aft and the main companion is shell topped, requiring steamed, tapered planks all the way across, but I tend to like the fiddly bits. The finish on that is cellulose sanding sealer. When the other light is done I'll varnish it all very thinly. Cheers, Martin
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It does look a bit manic in those shots, but can't you just slow down on the stick? Martin
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Modelling Timbers does one as a kit of parts. All their stuff is superb. Martin
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