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August 2018: 3 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 24 people March 2018: 13 people February 2018: 8 people January 2018: 25 people December 2017: 4 people |
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Luna 50
Type: Yacht 
Venice
Type: Pleasure Craft 
Not permitted
Type: Pleasure Craft 
Albatross
Type: Pleasure Craft 
Baby Horace III
Type: Racing Boat +1 More
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Fleet Admiral!
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United Kingdom
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The first brushed coat of primer, rubbed down and another coat sprayed, so I'm not wasting time rubbing down brush strokes. A little filling with one shot putty and a final fine paper rub down and we'll be on with the red enamel for the bottom colour. Martin
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I was just going on the memory of it being so tall. I can't imagine flying an aerobatic schedule with it. Martin
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Gents, just put the Sea Hornet in the build blog section, but whether it gets seen or not, I don't know. If the IC engine is an easy runner, Colin, run it on a water where the turds can't stop you. A navigable river or canal or just run the bugger till someone can prove (PROVE, mind) that you can't. Then just run it till the fuel runs out, reluctantly apologise and leave. BTW, I won't be showing video of this as I have no mobile phone beyond an emergency one that don't do pictures of any kind. I have a video camera somewhere that has dead batteries and a power pack, but where I sail there ain't no power! Doug, would the ED aerial be more like 27 meg if it was 6 foot long? I think it gets damned close to his ceiling if you try to put it up at home. So, chaps, Sea Hornet/Chris-Craft Special Runabout over on the Build blog section ifn you'm interested. Cheers, Martin
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I should, perhaps, have said that this hull with its shaft and tube, but nowt else cost me a grand 99 pence on ebay a couple of years back. You won't find anything worth having for 30 times that now! Martin
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OK, you know and I know that this is an Aerokits Sea Hornet, BUT, with a little reworking, it becomes a very passable Chris Craft Special (sometimes Custom) Runabout. One cockpit, long engine deck. I think it suits the Sea Hornet shape and proportions very well. Generally, I think too much is expected to be going on with a basic Hornet and the deck furniture is too simplistic. Also, don't be tempted to call this one a barrel back They had one continuous curve right over the transom from chine to chine, whereas this hull and the Special Runabout had a break, albeit a small one at the deck level. Anyway, I redecked the Hornet with 1/16th" ply, leaving the engine hatch long. I also had to make a small hatch at the stern to service the tiller and its connection. Then I realised I would never be able to get to the two starboard screws that hold the steering servo in, so a wee hatch went in over them too. That will be held in with a small magnet and just popped up from inside the engine 'ole hatch. Because the hull needed filling and various repairs, I decided to paint it, but veneer plank the deck. many Chris-Crafts were painted and I think this one in a nice off-white with a varnished Mahogany and pear deck will look just the job with nickel plated deck furniture, made in brass and nickel silver and plated in nickel to look like chrome in scale. Chrome is a) difficult to get these days and b) too bright and garish on a model. The hull has been epoxied and rubbed down then brush panted heavily with cellulose primer surfacer. This rubs down a treat ready for a sprayed enamel top coat or three. Cheers, Martin
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Oh PLEASE buy it, Colin. Sounds marvelous. Far too few diesel powered boats about and that RC sound s wonderful. I have an old chum who still has a 10 channel reed set of E.D. RC gear which still works. He says he had to fly with a plastic trimmer screwdriver in his hand to constantly retune the pots whilst flying! It has an 8 foot aerial and stands on the ground while he has a hand set wired to it. Doug could get that going. T They say you can't get the batteries, but a box of ten PP3s is a 90 volt battery. That's what my old REP set had, plus a 22 1/2 volt, the same size as a PP3. Not sure what you'd do for that! Cheers, Martin
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Nowhere near the interest required, Colin. I was once asked by the editor of Model Railway Journal to write some articles. I did and the editor had changed and he said, "Nobody makes anything any more". And he the editor of the one magazine for scratchbuilders! Nah, sod 'em. Cheers, Martin
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Maybe I should write one, eh, Colin? For the scratchbuilders among us. A treatise on brass bashing and woodwork. Nobody would be interested. I've just epoxied my Sea Hornet, which I'm modifying as a Chris Craft Custom Runabout. One cockpit, big hatch. Cost me 99p off ebay a few years ago. I just had to scrape all the old red paint off it as it wanted to fall off anyway! Then a huge rub down, a wipe with cellulose thinner and a coat of epoxy applied with a square of styrene sheet because I couldn't find an old credit card on the quick, just as good though. Next, rub down and 2 coats of cellulose primer surfacer, then the top coats. This one is to be one of the painted CCs. There were quite a few. But the deck will be veneered in the correct style and varnished. Martin
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Hmmm, well a cursory look through over lunch shows me that the book is fine if you're a kit basher as it covers the Dumas kind of kit, but for the actual modelmaker it holds nothing but nice pics on indifferent paper. Some useful addresses in the back. That's about it. Nothing on deck fittings, etc. Martin
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Hi all, just received a copy of the above and will curl up with that tonight while the telly churns out its usual diet of Saturday night crap. I shall review it when I've been through it. Martin
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Doug, I do most of that with veneers, which just require a sharp scalpel. No need for too much precision woodwork, but if there is, you just treat the timber as metal, using metalworking tools to cut and work it. It really isn't difficult. What MIGHT put some people off are all those shiny deck fittings and hull furniture. They have to be done by hand in brass, then polished, then sent off to be plated. Each of my Rivas had over 150 separate pieces of polished brass and nickel silver to be plated! Martin
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I tried Lumiweld years ago on an all aluminium model of an Albatross speedboat in 1/6th scale. The first joint was perfect, but I was never able to make a second, just burned the flux. This has no flux separately and you don't need the stainless wire brush either. So easy. Martin
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Here you go. There are several adverts, some for 2 sticks, some for more and some where you select your preference. I just went for one stick. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALUMINIUM-BRAZING-SOLDER-Ultra-lo... Martin
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This test piece is about 2" square, Colin. The solder went in from the inside of the piece and was then filed to finish and sandpapered then polished. The joint is the lower left one as the bloody picture, being done on my wife's 'phone, turned itself round, despite being corrected when uploaded. Martin
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Well, it arrived today and I tried it out on a part that echos the corner shape I'd need to make on the Hornet stern deck. Here's a picture. It really was that easy! Unreservedly recommended! How nice to find a new material one can rely on. Martin
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Yup, and e-mail answered and paid by Paypal. Model is scale, but of a speedboat, but if, as you say, your Sea Scout is on a Roebesch brass, maybe I could go the same way. I just want to give that Speed 400 the best chance of lifting the boat's skirts. Anyway, enjoy your meal. Cheers, Martin
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Oh! Happy Birthday, matey! Have a great meal. Is that Chinese Asian or Indian? We had endless trouble finding decent Indian meals in Germany, but when we did it was superb! Cheers, Martin
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Problem with Raboesch props, Doug (apart from cost) is that they're very scale boatish. I will need something a bit sporty and 2 bladed. I could make one, of course, but have no idea where to start shapewise apart from copy a real fast runabout prop. Silver soldering a prop ain't a problem for me. It's a damned faff though! Here's the boat I'm kinda modelling the Sea Hornet mods on. Cheers, Martin
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But you can't make him spend his spondooliks, yeah I know. Found the prop shaft for the Sea Hornet. It appears to be M3. Knowing my luck it'll be 1/8th" Haha. Cheeres, Martin
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Hi all, Needing to consider aluminium solder I looked it up and there seems to be something new around. It's only 300 degree C solder and fluxless. Cheapish too. I've ordered some and will report back. "Film...at 11" as they say. I'm thinking it could be ideal for the stern corners of the Hornet II model. My alternative was to make a press tool, which I didn't really want to get involved in. Apparently with this stuff you can even use a big soldering iron for smaller bits. The beauty of 300 C is there's no risk of melting the object being soldered and they claim there's no difference in hardness, elasticity, brittleness, etc, so clean up is easy, all objections to the original ally solder. I once used the original with complete success, then next time, complete failure. Maybe this new stuff will be the answer to a maiden's prayer, as my Dad would have said. Cheers, Martin
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Doug, thanks for the reference to Raboesch, but 12 quid a prop ain't gonna happen I'm afraid! I shall have to find some under 30mm plastics somewhere though, just in case they are what's needed. Either that or cut down 35mm props. Me, in Hornet II? Ha! I should be so lucky. I've still only ever been in one speedboat despite loving them all my life (apart from my own Albatross of course, which I only ever got one go in before the river speed police moaned at me). Martin
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Thanks, Doug, the blue brushless is held by something that grabs the smaller cylinder and the rest spins round, ergo, outrunner. If I ever make a lightweight I might try one in there. The brushed 400 I will try in the Sea Hornet. Gotta be worth a try. And that Simprop should be OK for it, n'est ce pas? What concerns me is the lack of sizes available in props. They all seem to start at 35mm which might be a little too hefty for the 400, but I can't find a 30mm anywhere. I also found the Hornet II I carved a while back with a view to getting it scanned for frame sections, so that's another wee job to finish off. I am looking forward to doing that one. Cheers, Martin
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Bon appetites, mon Braves. I have stopped doing Vincent heads (my neck feels like it'll break) and started looking for stuff. The Supermarine is, I hope to hopes, in the loft. But, whilst looking for the drill motor, I found the speed 400 from the electric Ugly Stik aeroplane. I'm wondering if that will power the Sea Hornet. Not sure what voltage they run at, so I'm orff to check that out. Also found the Hornet II model I carved in the hope I could get it scanned and sections (i.e. frames) made. 2 down, 2 to go! Fingers crossed. Cheers, Martin
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Aha, I assumed it was an airyplane motor. I had an Ugly Stick once, given to me with a speed 400 motor and a gearbox with a bent shaft. So the motor came on board as a spare and the gearbox was dumped, but I stopped doing aircraft and so gave the Ugly Stik back to its reluctant owner. There's a whole range of Ugly Stik type things, all ugly and odd looking but apparently they fly very well. Looks like your photo shows a brushed 380 type motor with gearing too. Not sure about the 62mm length! It's way shorter than that. Has, as you can see, a flange mount. There's no mount for the blue one. The magnetism is amazing. I can hardly turn the shaft with fingers. So, do you reckon the motors would work in a boat? Cheers, Martin
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Right, took some pics., typically not great, thanks to this useless bloody camera needing the centre of the sun to take a decent clear picture. The writing on the chrome motor says 2408-21-T3. There's nothing on the other one. The ESC just says ESC and Made in China, but then what ain't? I think what I'll do is actually finish the boats first, then buy in the necessary as by then I will have sold some stuff to pay for it without seeming selfish to the dear bride. Martin
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Doug, just seen the prices of 12V NiMh packs! I'd be better off using a 3s LiPo! I can get one of those from the local model shop for 15 quid. I could use the inrunner I have just got for the outboard in the Sea Hornet and just get one of those brushless ESCs. Jeez, this is all so expensive! Cheers, Martin
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Hi Doug, thanks for the info. I'll try all that this coming weekend. I'm pre-occupied with grandson and getting the cylinder heads done on the Vincent master pattern currently. That's been around for a year now and is very near completion, so I tend to keep weekends for my stuff only. I'll take some pics. of my ESCs for you. One small one is a Simprop 18Amp. That much is printed on it. So, I assume OK for a smaller motor. The others I don't even remember getting. But I have often been sent stuff as a thankyou for making bits or sending materials that they couldn't get hold of. I got some small brushless motors that way. A 2012? Would that power a smaller boat with a couple of LiPos? I'll do some pics of those too. Don't forget to add the postage of my stuff to the bill. Cheers, Martin
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Doug, I'll stick with your build blog. I still don't understand how you used the servo tester to replace TX and Rx, but don't worry, I'm happy to use the RC gear. As I did tonight in fact. Hooked the FlySky up to a Futaba servo I'd put on the rudder for the Sea Hornet and it all worked a treat. First RC installation I've ever done! Made loads of statics, but no RCs before. And you will NEVER find lights on one of my models. Mike Karslake, life long professional modelmaker, to a customer..."Sir I make models, not bloody table lamps". Cheers, Martin
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I would be using the 9.6 or 11 volt options probably. No idea, off the cuff what the ESCs are. In fact the bigger ones with heat sinks on them have no writing. They also don't seem to be BEC equipped either. There's a switch on the end of a lead, but nothing out of the other end of the switch! Martin
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Hi Doug, yes, very similar sizes. (Nice finish on your Sea Hornet, btw. Mine cost me 99p off ebay!). My drill motor is from a 14.4Volt one, if I can find it! OR, I'll buy a 20,000 rev one from ebay. Roughly the same I should think. I'm going brushed because I have ESCs to use up, apart from the one or two for the Taycols, thanks to your kind provision of electro-boards. I was thinking 30-35mm prop. so that's good to have confirmed. This is actually the first full installation I've ever done in a model boat. My Sea Urchin is free running, the Crash Tender was installed by my Dad with REP single channel stuff and I once put a rudder servo in my brother's borrowed 575 yacht. Everything else (and that's a lot) has been static. Just got the steering servo mounted and made a sweet wee box for the Rx to help prevent it getting wet. Motor next. Cheers, Martin
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