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    zooma
    Member Stats
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    Member No.#5995
    RegisteredπŸ“…23rd Sep 2020
    Last OnlineπŸ“…26th Feb 2024
    CityπŸ“Rossendale
    CountryπŸ‡¬πŸ‡§United Kingdom
    Gender♂️Male
    AgeπŸ‘Ά74
    PostsπŸ’¬329
    FollowersπŸ“£3
    Likes ReceivedπŸ‘655

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    πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ bobs2 ( Recruit)
    πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Steveg171 ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
    πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Madwelshman ( Midshipman)
    3 Followers
    Recent Activity
    Liked Re: Modified Stiletto project 1 month ago
    Liked Re: Modified Stiletto project 1 month ago
    Liked Rustoleum Pain Can Nozzle Restoration 3 months ago
    Liked Rustoleum Pain Can Nozzle Restoration 3 months ago
    Sub-Lieutenant
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    237 Points Away From Lieutenant!
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    Never too old to learn
    About
    Been making r/c model power boats since the 1960's - and riding off road bicycles even longer!
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    Recent Posts
    πŸ“ Sea rover cabin cruiser
    8 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 30 Views · 2 Likes
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    πŸ“ Reply
    Great to see another Classic model power boat given a new life extension!

    Well done - I hope you enjoy running it. πŸ‘

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    πŸ“ Vic Smeed RTTL Vosper
    28 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 36 Views · 1 Like
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    πŸ“ Reply
    The colour scheme of the RTTL that we had running in our club back in the early 1960's had a black hull with red undersides, grey superstructures with white cabin tops - just like the colours used on the Aerokits fire and rescue launches.

    I have no idea what colour scheme's were used on these launches (in real life) over the years, but no doubt there would have been some changes.

    πŸ“ Vic Smeed RTTL Vosper
    28 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 37 Views · 2 Likes
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    πŸ“ Reply
    We had one of these Vic Smeed RTTL launches in our local club back in the early 1960's and it was powered by a Gannet 15cc petrol motor. Not overly fast but it look really good and sounded nice too!

    πŸ’¬ Re: Modified Stiletto project
    1 month ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 40 Views · 1 Like
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    I will also be making a much modified Stilleo/Rapier as a future project - thanks to some excellent ideas provided by Chris

    When I get all the templates drawn-up I will also cut a spare set of parts for Will (madwelshman) so that he can bung one together too! πŸ‘

    πŸ’¬ Re: Lesro "Arrow"
    1 month ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 24 Views · 3 Likes
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    Here is a picture of my LesRo Javelin - the Arrows big brother.

    These hulls really work very well and can handle the Great British weather very well !

    πŸ’¬ Re: Lesro "Arrow"
    1 month ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 29 Views · 0 Likes
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    I have the larger version of the Arrow - the LesRo Javelin (shares the same hull as the LesRo Rapier) and I bought a kit to make the smaller LesRo Arrow some time back - but I have not made it yet.

    It's a shame that LesRo never re-kitted either the Rapier or its smaller brother/sister the Stiletto (share's the same hull as the Arrow).

    They are all great "classic" r/c model power boats that perform well, and your Arrow looks really smart!!

    πŸ“ Rustoleum Pain Can Nozzle Restoration
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 57 Views · 3 Likes
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    πŸ“ Reply
    Good tips - and I like Colins idea of saving old nozzles after the cans are empty! (something I have done many times over the years!).

    I sometimes drop the dirty rattle can nozzle into a small screw top jar (like an airbrush storage paint jar) part filled with thinners - and give it a good shake .

    This agitates the clogged paint (after it has had time to soak) and can save risking any damage to the nozzle if you don't have the correct size drill bits to open them out accurately.

    Soak - Shake - Repeat. This process can be repeated several times until the nozzle is clear and doing more than one nozzle at a time (if your jar is big enough) helps the agitation and can save time if you have more than one blocked nozzle.

    Bob.

    πŸ’¬ Re: Chris Craft Corvette
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 34 Views · 0 Likes
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    I wanted to show the true rotten condition of the hull and superstructure before I started working on it as most who saw it agreed that it was most definitely not worth bothering with.
    If it were not for the lock down I would not have considered trying to save it either !
    These early pictures cannot be taken again - but they are stored safely on my iMac and can be sent by email to anyone that would like to see them - or is able to upload them for others to see.

    πŸ’¬ Re: Chris Craft Corvette
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 42 Views · 0 Likes
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    I am using an Apple Mac computer - 2012 model - so maybe not as up to date as it needs to be?

    πŸ“ Chris Craft Corvette
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 4 Views · 5 Likes · 7 Comments
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    I rescued this badly damaged fuel soaked rotten wreck from the skip at the start of lockdown...and I am still working on it......now and again!

    Every time I try to upload any pictures of my Corvette I get the message "invalid file".............but I will keep trying!

    πŸ’¬ Re: Flying Christine2
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 46 Views · 1 Like
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    A friend of mine has done a little research into the Flying Christine and believes that it would be possible to build all three variants of this well known craft from this one kit.
    With some minor modifications this should be reasonably easy to achieve and would make an impressive trio.

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    πŸ“ Update on my Sterling Corvette
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 65 Views · 1 Like
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    A friend of mine has done a little research into the Flying Christine and believes that it would be possible to build all three variants of this well known craft from this one kit.
    With some minor modifications this should be reasonably easy to achieve and would make an impressive trio.

    πŸ“ Update on my Sterling Corvette
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 68 Views · 1 Like
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    My ex Sterling Kits Chris Craft Corvette is currently almost back in one rot-free lump, but it has taken so much time to get it this far, the comparatively simple matter of final finishing and detailing has not been given any recent attention.
    I think it just "wore me out" :(

    πŸ“ Update on my Sterling Corvette
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 67 Views · 1 Like
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    I "rescued" the remains of a Sterling Kit Chris Craft Corvette from a skip at the start of the Covid lockdown.
    My restoration involved removing a lot of rot and can be seen here

    herehttps://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,64895.0.html
    πŸ’¬ Re: Flying Christine2
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 64 Views · 3 Likes
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    I saw the original Flying Christine back in the very early 1960's during a fortnights (Junior) school visit to the island.
    The original craft was painted in black and white only and proudly displayed the St Johns Ambulance logo on its hull sides.
    I think the current Flying Christine is the third (similar sized) craft to bear the name.

    πŸ’¬ Re: Flying Christine2
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 64 Views · 3 Likes
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    I was lucky to see the original Flying Christine in Guernsey when it was first crewed by local hero Dan Blanchflower who used the craft to save several lives that would have been lost before St Johns Ambulance were able to commission her as a floating ambulance service.

    πŸ“ Paint
    4 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 67 Views · 7 Likes
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    It's getting a lot harder to find good oil based household paint, and my testing with various brands of the current "water based - easy clean" household paints has proven to be very disappointing.
    Poor coverage and no long term resistance to immersion in water are my main complaints against these easy clean-up paints.
    I restore classic r/c power boats -usually from the late '50's to the mid '70s - and I like to paint them by hand with brush paint to finish them in the traditional way with oil based gloss paints.

    πŸ’¬ Re: Hovercraft
    4 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 286 Views · 0 Likes
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    Since my first comment I have been able to open your link and see the short hovercraft video Phil.

    The model is described as a GRIFFON so I am guessing that I should be able to find out more about the model online - maybe there is a commercially available kit for it?

    I will see what I can find out about building and running an r/c hovercraft.

    πŸ’¬ Re: Hovercraft
    4 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 285 Views · 0 Likes
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    Do you have any more info about your hovercraft Phil?

    Sadly, your link does not work for me, but I find hovercraft a fascinating subject and would like to learn more about them if I can.

    Bob.

    πŸ“ The resurrectionists and a bit of maths, mainly percentages!
    4 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 40 Views · 1 Like
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    I am pleased to know that you are feeling better now that you have "vented your spleen" Roy.
    Now you can look forward to another wet weekend out with your model boat.πŸ‘
    Stay safe,
    Bob.

    πŸ“ Fairey Huntress
    4 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 34 Views · 0 Likes
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    πŸ“ Reply
    What adhesive did you use to glue your windows in with Chris?

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    πŸ“ Cooling for the ESC
    4 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 31 Views · 4 Likes
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    Hi DG,

    I run brushless motors with matching ESC's and I have always water cooled them both.

    My brushless motors are mounted on alloy water-cooled motor mounts and both are fed from a single water scoop pick-up.

    This may well be a hang-up from the 1960's when all my r/c boats were powered by ic engines, but the water-cooled alloy motor mounts are a more recent thing that I have only been doing over the last few years.

    I always buy water-cooled ESC, but I also have some water-cooled base plates that I bought for use with a non-water cooled ESC. I have not used these yet, but it looks like a nice simple idea, although heat rises and the efficiency of cooling the underside of the ESC may not be a perfect solution.

    It is nice to be able to check the water flow from the outlet when the boat passes by so I can see that the cooling system is working well.

    πŸ“ One of the most useful bits of kit in my workshop
    4 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 90 Views · 3 Likes
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    That looks like a really useful bit of kit EdW.

    I make all of my stripping and triangular shaped strip on my bandsaw, but your miniature saw table will be able to cut smaller sections and to a much finer tolerance's.

    .......and it will take up a lot less space too!

    πŸ“ Came across this Fairey Swordsman
    4 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 70 Views · 4 Likes
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    When fixing strakes (the underwater ribs on the bottom of the hull) to older hulls that I am refurbishing - or just adding them to hulls that never had them fitted before - I always mark the positions of them on the bottom of the hull first.
    When I am happy with the positions, I scrape away the paint in a channel that is just a little wider than the strake that I am going to fit.
    This gives a nice clean channel to fit the strake into and ensures the glue being used has some good clean wood to bond onto.

    πŸ“ Came across this Fairey Swordsman
    4 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 64 Views · 4 Likes
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    When fixing strakes, spray rails, or deck edge rails with "dry" (non soaked or steamed) wood it is important to navigate the bow curve very slowly, and to start working from the tip of the bow.
    I have found that fixing the first 5-10mm at the bow end with extra thin superglue anchors the strake/rail in position firmly.
    Then the next 5-10mm can be super-glued into position and when dry the next 5-10mm or so until the curved section of the bow is successfully navigated.
    After that the sides are a lot easier to fix when longer sections can be glued into place, step at a time, but I still only work in short lengths or 20 - 30 mm or so and hold the strake/rail in place to the marks every time until it is firmly fixed in place.
    Marking the position that the strake/rail is to fit against before starting to glue anything down is important.
    I mark the position with small marks every 10 - 20 mm apart or so before I start any glueing so the strake/rail will always be glued in the correct position.
    Tip:- I have found that a Biro gives a nice clear mark that is easier to work to and easier to see than a pencil mark.

    πŸ“ Rttl2755 maiden voyage
    5 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 69 Views · 2 Likes
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    You have made a superb job of your RTTL, hope all goes well on your maiden voyage with her today πŸ‘

    Bob.

    πŸ“ Came across this Fairey Swordsman
    5 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 69 Views · 4 Likes
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    Nice to hear about another competitive Swordsman EdW. They are reliable and competitive models that perform really well.

    My first Swordsman was powered by an OS 40M marine engine and later by a Merco 61 Twin-Plug.

    It performed really well with both of these engines. I think the OS40M had good power for a .40 size glow engine and the Merco 61 Twin Plug was OK for a .61 glow engine but probably didnt have the power of some of the rival Webra 61 engines etc.

    I think torque was an important factor when shoving the Swordsman through the sea and it never looked "second best" to any of the more exotically powered rival models I ever competed with.

    I fitted trim tabs to the red Rapier hull shown pictured here for a while, but later made a front hatch to hold a little ballast weight so I could adjust the angle of the boat at speed without the trim tabs.

    I never needed trim tabs on my Swordsman - it ran beautifully without them.

    πŸ“ Came across this Fairey Swordsman
    5 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 82 Views · 9 Likes
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    Hi Schmango,

    I made my spray rails and deck edge rails from 1/8" x 1/4 " obechie hardwood and found them easy to fit to the shape of the hull.

    For the "strakes" I used triangular shaped obechie strips and spaced them as per the Aerokits /Philip Connolly plans, and fitted them as follows:-

    Start at the bow and only fix 10mm or less at a time (using thin superglue) and hold each small section until it is fully bonded before moving on to the next small section.

    This is time consuming, but I have done several hulls this way and they have all worked well

    I have also added similar spray rails to some of my older hulls that never had them originally (such as the LesRo Rapier shown here) and found an improved performance.

    I think they are worth adding and the constant Deep Vee (mono-hedron) hull on a Swordsman works especially well with them fitted.

    Bob. πŸ‘

    πŸ’¬ Re: LesRo Javelin p
    5 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 22 Views · 0 Likes
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    Thanks for the link to the graphics supplier Barry, I will take a look to see what I can find locally.
    Bob.πŸ‘

    πŸ’¬ Re: Thunder Tiger AVANTI
    5 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ zooma ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 23 Views · 0 Likes
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    Thunder Tiger re-released this model with yellow and green coloured hulls (with more colourful paintwork and decals) and called it "OUTLAW Jnr OBL".

    Most of the parts for this new model and the AVANTI are exactly the same, so I was hoping that this would improve the supply of basic spare parts - but I was wrong!

    There are no spare parts available for this model either πŸ‘Ž



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