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💬 Re: Aerokits Sea Commander. Strange Handling ?
19 minutes ago by 🇬🇧 zooma (
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Regarding the cheeky comment from ChrisF suggesting that the cause of my strange handling problem was my “throttle hand”.
…..I admit to driving all my classic power boats quite quickly at times (fast) as I like to see them make “white water”.
However, I drive all of my Classic Model Power Boats “with enthusiasm” and enjoy seeing them perform well and in a scale like way (OK maybe slighter faster at times 🤓).
As I have a variety of different Classic Model Power Boats to drive (along with some quite fast flatties etc) I appreciate that they do not all perform in the same way and drive them accordingly.
However, the ONLY Classic Model Power Boat that I have driven since the 1960’s when I first started driving (and racing) them that has displayed this strange nose diving quirk has been my Sea Commander!
This is not all bad news as now I have gotten used to it (and even know how to “encourage” it to perform in this way), I sometimes deliberately drive it into this situation as it looks so spectacular with the decks awash and partly submerged forcing the “wave breaker” to display its effectiveness (it does work!).
Having admitted to the above, and seen other Sea Commanders behaving in exactly the same way (depending on speed and water conditions), I am not really worried about it at all……but I would still like to understand why this particular design handles so uniquely differently from any other Classic Model Power Boat that I have ever driven or experienced over the last 60 years or so of “enthusiastic” driving with the same “throttle hand”. 😎
…..I admit to driving all my classic power boats quite quickly at times (fast) as I like to see them make “white water”.
However, I drive all of my Classic Model Power Boats “with enthusiasm” and enjoy seeing them perform well and in a scale like way (OK maybe slighter faster at times 🤓).
As I have a variety of different Classic Model Power Boats to drive (along with some quite fast flatties etc) I appreciate that they do not all perform in the same way and drive them accordingly.
However, the ONLY Classic Model Power Boat that I have driven since the 1960’s when I first started driving (and racing) them that has displayed this strange nose diving quirk has been my Sea Commander!
This is not all bad news as now I have gotten used to it (and even know how to “encourage” it to perform in this way), I sometimes deliberately drive it into this situation as it looks so spectacular with the decks awash and partly submerged forcing the “wave breaker” to display its effectiveness (it does work!).
Having admitted to the above, and seen other Sea Commanders behaving in exactly the same way (depending on speed and water conditions), I am not really worried about it at all……but I would still like to understand why this particular design handles so uniquely differently from any other Classic Model Power Boat that I have ever driven or experienced over the last 60 years or so of “enthusiastic” driving with the same “throttle hand”. 😎
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📝 Adding a Reverse to Forwards Only ESC?
39 minutes ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
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I will give that idea some consideration RubaDub as it could save me taking a perfectly good working ESC out of a boat and replacing it with an untried and untested (as of yet) water-cooled SHARK ESC that has forwards and reverse built in.
A couple of weeks ago one of my local friendly holiday camp neighbours started coming to the Southport Model Boat club with me and showed some interest in getting started with Classic Model Power Boats and over a couple of pints of our latest (strong) home brewed beer he revealed that he is an avid electronics components buyer.
He also had various discount codes that he could apply to his purchases from a well known Chinese supplier.
This quickly deteriorated into a competition to find the cheapest SHARK 100A ESC and I found one for £19 including delivery !
Surprisingly it has arrived safely in the post (!) so I now have one to test and my new future model boating companion also bought one (for slightly more!).
Bob.
A couple of weeks ago one of my local friendly holiday camp neighbours started coming to the Southport Model Boat club with me and showed some interest in getting started with Classic Model Power Boats and over a couple of pints of our latest (strong) home brewed beer he revealed that he is an avid electronics components buyer.
He also had various discount codes that he could apply to his purchases from a well known Chinese supplier.
This quickly deteriorated into a competition to find the cheapest SHARK 100A ESC and I found one for £19 including delivery !
Surprisingly it has arrived safely in the post (!) so I now have one to test and my new future model boating companion also bought one (for slightly more!).
Bob.
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📝 Sprite
53 minutes ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
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Hi EdW,
Have you been able to buy lengths of silver steel over 12” long?
I have quite a few boxes of 10” and 12” silver steel from my model engineering days, but longer lengths were not usually stocked by my local steel supplier.
Are you going to turn your own flanged bearings from Phosphor Bronze or Brass?
Lastly, do you mind letting me know how you anneal your silver steel to make it soft enough to cut a screw thread in it using High Speed steel dies?
I just used to heat my silver steel until it was glowing red (on the end to be threaded) and then let it cool down slowly, but knowing which colour band to quench it at after cutting the thread and re-heating it again was always a bit of a guess for me.
When I get home I may check the cost and availability of 8mm O/D brass tube and 5mm stainless steel or silver steel bar locally along with the same for brass or phosphor bronze to make some bearings from and see how the prices compare with buying a 5mm Maxi shaft ready made.
Bob.
Have you been able to buy lengths of silver steel over 12” long?
I have quite a few boxes of 10” and 12” silver steel from my model engineering days, but longer lengths were not usually stocked by my local steel supplier.
Are you going to turn your own flanged bearings from Phosphor Bronze or Brass?
Lastly, do you mind letting me know how you anneal your silver steel to make it soft enough to cut a screw thread in it using High Speed steel dies?
I just used to heat my silver steel until it was glowing red (on the end to be threaded) and then let it cool down slowly, but knowing which colour band to quench it at after cutting the thread and re-heating it again was always a bit of a guess for me.
When I get home I may check the cost and availability of 8mm O/D brass tube and 5mm stainless steel or silver steel bar locally along with the same for brass or phosphor bronze to make some bearings from and see how the prices compare with buying a 5mm Maxi shaft ready made.
Bob.
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hermank
💬 Re: Classic Model Power Boats
3 hours ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
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I will check the balance points of my Rapier and Sea Commander copy and compare them to those that Harry has noted here.
I seldom measure the balance point of any of my Classic Model Power Boats, but I always aim to have this around two thirds to three quarters along the hull from the bows.
Making small adjustments to this balance point can make a difference to the handling (see the thread :- Aerokits Sea Commander - Strange Handling notes).
I will take a look and compare as although my Rapier has outstandingly good performance in rough water conditions - my Sea Commander most certainly doe not enjoy the same degree of performance these water conditions.
Bob.
I seldom measure the balance point of any of my Classic Model Power Boats, but I always aim to have this around two thirds to three quarters along the hull from the bows.
Making small adjustments to this balance point can make a difference to the handling (see the thread :- Aerokits Sea Commander - Strange Handling notes).
I will take a look and compare as although my Rapier has outstandingly good performance in rough water conditions - my Sea Commander most certainly doe not enjoy the same degree of performance these water conditions.
Bob.
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📝 Sprite
3 hours ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
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Hi RodC,
A postal service is something that everyone wants/needs but would prefer not to pay for.
In the UK less and less people are posting letters. Part of the reason for this is because fewer people can actually be bothered to write with a pen/pencil (keyboards are preferred) but the cost of posting a letter has made it less attractive.
In comparison, the cost of posting a small package looks like much better value for money and our local “postie” reports carrying fewer letters every day - but many more padded envelopes and small packages that ever before.
Larger packages and boxes etc are delivered by van and not by the “postie” who still uses his legs to walk his delivery route.
Some suppliers (less and less) these days add unrealistic postal delivery costs to their products to make a little extra cash, but most take advantage of the very competitive delivery service that we have in the UK that has several couriers competing against each other, and this drives the prices down - or at least keeps them competitive.
Some suppliers add a standard delivery charge to everything they sell. This can work out OK if you are spending and buying a lot, but penalises those of us that just want to buy small lightweight items such as a few plastic propellers or an odd prop-shaft that anyone could take to the post office and post for less (much less sometimes).
Even more interesting is that anyone can arrange and pay (by mobile phone, iPad, computer etc) for their small package to be uplifted from their home at no extra cost!
Being aware of this can cause a little unhappiness when a supplier adds a fixed delivery charge to small items that anyone (that does not even have a business rate deal with any particular courier) can send for less.
Against that, we do have quite a good postal delivery service here in the UK, but (traditionally) we enjoy a good moan about things from time to time, so any perceived over-charge for being sent something by mail gives us a good opportunity to enjoy a good moan about it - and to share this discontent with anyone else who can be bothered to listen 🤣
Having had a bit of a moan, few of us will make the effort to escalate this to the next level and actually complain to the sender about adding unjustified costs to those small but essential little items we need …….but it doesn’t stop us either being fully aware of it - or being little “miffed” about it.
From what you say, maybe you could have even more of a (justified) moan about your postal service in Canada?
Bob.
A postal service is something that everyone wants/needs but would prefer not to pay for.
In the UK less and less people are posting letters. Part of the reason for this is because fewer people can actually be bothered to write with a pen/pencil (keyboards are preferred) but the cost of posting a letter has made it less attractive.
In comparison, the cost of posting a small package looks like much better value for money and our local “postie” reports carrying fewer letters every day - but many more padded envelopes and small packages that ever before.
Larger packages and boxes etc are delivered by van and not by the “postie” who still uses his legs to walk his delivery route.
Some suppliers (less and less) these days add unrealistic postal delivery costs to their products to make a little extra cash, but most take advantage of the very competitive delivery service that we have in the UK that has several couriers competing against each other, and this drives the prices down - or at least keeps them competitive.
Some suppliers add a standard delivery charge to everything they sell. This can work out OK if you are spending and buying a lot, but penalises those of us that just want to buy small lightweight items such as a few plastic propellers or an odd prop-shaft that anyone could take to the post office and post for less (much less sometimes).
Even more interesting is that anyone can arrange and pay (by mobile phone, iPad, computer etc) for their small package to be uplifted from their home at no extra cost!
Being aware of this can cause a little unhappiness when a supplier adds a fixed delivery charge to small items that anyone (that does not even have a business rate deal with any particular courier) can send for less.
Against that, we do have quite a good postal delivery service here in the UK, but (traditionally) we enjoy a good moan about things from time to time, so any perceived over-charge for being sent something by mail gives us a good opportunity to enjoy a good moan about it - and to share this discontent with anyone else who can be bothered to listen 🤣
Having had a bit of a moan, few of us will make the effort to escalate this to the next level and actually complain to the sender about adding unjustified costs to those small but essential little items we need …….but it doesn’t stop us either being fully aware of it - or being little “miffed” about it.
From what you say, maybe you could have even more of a (justified) moan about your postal service in Canada?
Bob.
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hermank
📝 Sprite
15 hours ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 13 Views · 2 Likes
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£55.75 for two basic prop-shafts (not ball raced or anything special) and a rudder.
Not very long ago that price for so little would not have been thought possible - but here we are!
…..and that is not actually too bad !
I have not bought any wood yet, but wood prices have also shot up, so I am not expecting any bargains there either !
Prices have gone up everywhere for everything, and our hobby only reflects that situation, but it doesn’t make it any easier.
Some of my Remora was made from scrap used plywood - but it hasn’t suffered from that in any way, and it runs really well, so maybe recycling and restoring old models could get more popular in the near future?
Bob.
Not very long ago that price for so little would not have been thought possible - but here we are!
…..and that is not actually too bad !
I have not bought any wood yet, but wood prices have also shot up, so I am not expecting any bargains there either !
Prices have gone up everywhere for everything, and our hobby only reflects that situation, but it doesn’t make it any easier.
Some of my Remora was made from scrap used plywood - but it hasn’t suffered from that in any way, and it runs really well, so maybe recycling and restoring old models could get more popular in the near future?
Bob.
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hermank
RodC
💬 Re: Aerokits Sea Commander. Strange Handling ?
20 hours ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 9 Views · 0 Likes
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Yup, I think some hull designs cope with the phenomenon described by Chum444 much better than others.
The LesRo Rapier hull just shrugs it off, whereas the Sea Commander hull copes with it noticeably badly.
Bob.
The LesRo Rapier hull just shrugs it off, whereas the Sea Commander hull copes with it noticeably badly.
Bob.
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📝 Adding a Reverse to Forwards Only ESC?
20 hours ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
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Just to finish this “knowing who makes what” chat, when I had my first Toyota MR2 sports car, I was really surprised when I opened the engine bay of this early mid-engined car to find the name YAMAHA proudly cast into the engine!
After taking delivery of a new Nissan X-Trail e-Power and finding the failed battery was marked “Mitsubishi” was another surprise.
Having electronics companies sub-contracting manufacture of certain models of ESC in their product ranges to other manufacturers comes as no surprise to me.
Bob.
After taking delivery of a new Nissan X-Trail e-Power and finding the failed battery was marked “Mitsubishi” was another surprise.
Having electronics companies sub-contracting manufacture of certain models of ESC in their product ranges to other manufacturers comes as no surprise to me.
Bob.
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RodC
📝 Sprite
1 day ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 18 Views · 2 Likes
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I have placed my order for both M5 Maxishaft prop shafts (along with a large size rudder) so the deed is done and they will be with me very soon.
The rudder can be cut to shape and size as required as it is probably too big for the Sprite Plus.
Bob.
The rudder can be cut to shape and size as required as it is probably too big for the Sprite Plus.
Bob.
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RodC
hermank
💬 Re: Aerokits Sea Commander. Strange Handling ?
1 day ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 18 Views · 1 Like
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I forgot to mention it at the time, but since it is still bothering me, the cost for sending the spare plastic propellers to me that I bought locally recently was £6.50.
This is a standard delivery charge from my favourite supplier of model boat bits and pieces and is worth remembering when only a small lightweight item (such as a plastic propeller) is needed.
It is less expensive to buy these things and have them posted from China, but I always support my local supplier whenever possible.
Bob.
This is a standard delivery charge from my favourite supplier of model boat bits and pieces and is worth remembering when only a small lightweight item (such as a plastic propeller) is needed.
It is less expensive to buy these things and have them posted from China, but I always support my local supplier whenever possible.
Bob.
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hermank
📝 Lost Transmitter
1 day ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 8 Views · 2 Likes
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All of these miniature electronics can be found on eBay and are not too expensive.
Some of the good model shops that specialise in small racing cars can also be very helpful - especially if the part (such as a combined receiver/speed controller) is a “spare part” for cars that they stock and sell anyway.
I have used Modelsport in Otley for some of my parts and found them to be a good supplier with reasonable delivery costs.
Bob.
Some of the good model shops that specialise in small racing cars can also be very helpful - especially if the part (such as a combined receiver/speed controller) is a “spare part” for cars that they stock and sell anyway.
I have used Modelsport in Otley for some of my parts and found them to be a good supplier with reasonable delivery costs.
Bob.
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ChrisF
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💬 Re: LesRo Sportsman (?) Restoration
1 day ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 3 Views · 1 Like
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A new 12” prop shaft will be needed to be fitted fairly early into the hull rebuild, so I need to either buy one or make one.
As the hull is already built the bulkheads would make it really difficult to fit a tube that already has an oiler soldered onto it, so I will fit a plain shaft without an oiler.
Most of my prop shafts have a 5mm inner shaft and have run for years (some have run for hundreds of hours) without an oiler fitted so this is not likely to be a problem on this boat - and various clamp-on oilers can be retro-fitted easily enough if I should ever feel the need to have one in the future.
Bob.
As the hull is already built the bulkheads would make it really difficult to fit a tube that already has an oiler soldered onto it, so I will fit a plain shaft without an oiler.
Most of my prop shafts have a 5mm inner shaft and have run for years (some have run for hundreds of hours) without an oiler fitted so this is not likely to be a problem on this boat - and various clamp-on oilers can be retro-fitted easily enough if I should ever feel the need to have one in the future.
Bob.
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jumpugly
📝 Sprite
1 day ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
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As a pensioner, I suppose I notice the increasing cost of things a bit more than when I was at work and I was a little surprised at the cost of an 11” Maxishaft (8mm outer tube with 5mm inner shaft) to fit this boat.
With the oiler tube fitted, the cost is £21.25 which is probably not too bad, but £6.50 to post it to me makes it £27.75.
I also want to buy a 12” Maxishaft to fit into “Christine” the LesRo Sportsman and (being one inch longer that shaft will cost more, so I think I will make that one myself and see how I get on.
When I was still at school I used to make my own prop shafts for myself and my friends when I was able to use the lathe during the dinner-time break or after school, so it is hardly rocket science, but I would guess that the cost of brass tube for the outer and phosphor bronze for the bearings will be a lot more these days …..and then the 5mm steel for inner shaft still has to be purchased.
Inner shaft material choice is an interesting one too. Plain mild steel is easy to work and cut a thread on but will rust easily if it is not kept well lubricated and so is not the best choice especially if the boat is likely to be run in salt water.
Stainless steel is a fairly obvious alternative but there are several “grades” of stainless steel and one of the so called “marine grades” would be the natural choice and it too can be quite easy to cut and thread.
Silver steel is another (expensive) option. This comes in shorter lengths, is very hard and very straight but it is not as easy to find in lengths longer than 12” and has to be annealed on the end to the threaded and then (ideally) re-hardened to a suitable hardness afterwards and is more rust resistant the mild steel but not as good as stainless steel.
Unless I have some suitable materials in stock - it is probably cheaper to buy the Maxishafts than make them - but the £6.50 local postage for such a small light padded envelope does annoy!
Bob.
With the oiler tube fitted, the cost is £21.25 which is probably not too bad, but £6.50 to post it to me makes it £27.75.
I also want to buy a 12” Maxishaft to fit into “Christine” the LesRo Sportsman and (being one inch longer that shaft will cost more, so I think I will make that one myself and see how I get on.
When I was still at school I used to make my own prop shafts for myself and my friends when I was able to use the lathe during the dinner-time break or after school, so it is hardly rocket science, but I would guess that the cost of brass tube for the outer and phosphor bronze for the bearings will be a lot more these days …..and then the 5mm steel for inner shaft still has to be purchased.
Inner shaft material choice is an interesting one too. Plain mild steel is easy to work and cut a thread on but will rust easily if it is not kept well lubricated and so is not the best choice especially if the boat is likely to be run in salt water.
Stainless steel is a fairly obvious alternative but there are several “grades” of stainless steel and one of the so called “marine grades” would be the natural choice and it too can be quite easy to cut and thread.
Silver steel is another (expensive) option. This comes in shorter lengths, is very hard and very straight but it is not as easy to find in lengths longer than 12” and has to be annealed on the end to the threaded and then (ideally) re-hardened to a suitable hardness afterwards and is more rust resistant the mild steel but not as good as stainless steel.
Unless I have some suitable materials in stock - it is probably cheaper to buy the Maxishafts than make them - but the £6.50 local postage for such a small light padded envelope does annoy!
Bob.
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RodC
hermank
peterd
📝 Lost Transmitter
1 day ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 10 Views · 1 Like
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Hi Chris,
RadioLink is the most popular radio used in our club and along with Spectrum is the one that I have seen used the most often with the miniature receivers, combined receiver/ESC, and the very small electric motors that have their own built-in ESC.
All three of the above systems work well with the miniature receivers combined to regular sized transmitters and bind in the way that is normal for the make.
Good quality radios are used as several can be raced in the hall together and need to work well to save any interference in such close proximity to each other.
Probably a much more demanding situation then when running a model boat outside, and range is not a problem as we are using the same transmitters.
Hope this helps if/when you decide to upgrade your smaller RTR model boats.
Bob.
RadioLink is the most popular radio used in our club and along with Spectrum is the one that I have seen used the most often with the miniature receivers, combined receiver/ESC, and the very small electric motors that have their own built-in ESC.
All three of the above systems work well with the miniature receivers combined to regular sized transmitters and bind in the way that is normal for the make.
Good quality radios are used as several can be raced in the hall together and need to work well to save any interference in such close proximity to each other.
Probably a much more demanding situation then when running a model boat outside, and range is not a problem as we are using the same transmitters.
Hope this helps if/when you decide to upgrade your smaller RTR model boats.
Bob.
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RodC
📝 Lost Transmitter
2 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 22 Views · 2 Likes
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If you do decide to upgrade any of your RTR boats that currently use a circuit board to provide all functions you may like to use the same smaller sized rx and ESC (and servos?) that we fit in our 1/12 scale LMP race cars that we run with RadioLink transmitters.
Even smaller 1/18 scale crawlers have been converted to run with standard size transmitters usuing a compatible combined rx and ESC,
Some of the small 1/16 scale buggies and trucks that we race use motors that actually have their own ESC built into them!
These tiny little combined motors and ESC give nothing away in performance to their separate component rivals.
These combined motors and ESC are so tiny that they “begger belief”, but we have been running them at our club for at least 2 years + and we have had no failures yet !
Bob.
Even smaller 1/18 scale crawlers have been converted to run with standard size transmitters usuing a compatible combined rx and ESC,
Some of the small 1/16 scale buggies and trucks that we race use motors that actually have their own ESC built into them!
These tiny little combined motors and ESC give nothing away in performance to their separate component rivals.
These combined motors and ESC are so tiny that they “begger belief”, but we have been running them at our club for at least 2 years + and we have had no failures yet !
Bob.
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RodC
ChrisF
📝 Adding a Reverse to Forwards Only ESC?
2 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 22 Views · 2 Likes
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HobbyKing make a lot of good ESC - many of which are used in r/c car racing (I have used them for many years).
There can be quite a lot of confusion about which Chinese manufacturer makes what ESC and the marketing names that they or their distributors and sellers use to market them with, and even this can change from territory to territory.
As far as I am aware Hobby Wing make most of the well known ESC that could be be branded with their own name, Quickrun, SeaKing, Leopard and Turnigy - and probably others that I have not come across yet.
Another important Chinese manufacturer is Surpass who also make some excellent ESC and servos too!
Surpass may well also produce other servos and ESC under other brand names for all I know.
It is difficult to be 100% sure about who makes what brands these days or to know if that will remain the case in future years as brand names are re-used or sold, and some have various models made under sub-contract elsewhere as well etc.
Bob.
There can be quite a lot of confusion about which Chinese manufacturer makes what ESC and the marketing names that they or their distributors and sellers use to market them with, and even this can change from territory to territory.
As far as I am aware Hobby Wing make most of the well known ESC that could be be branded with their own name, Quickrun, SeaKing, Leopard and Turnigy - and probably others that I have not come across yet.
Another important Chinese manufacturer is Surpass who also make some excellent ESC and servos too!
Surpass may well also produce other servos and ESC under other brand names for all I know.
It is difficult to be 100% sure about who makes what brands these days or to know if that will remain the case in future years as brand names are re-used or sold, and some have various models made under sub-contract elsewhere as well etc.
Bob.
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RodC
peterd
📝 Sprite
2 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 20 Views · 5 Likes
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Here are some more cabin roof structures to help illustrate how they simply “plug-in” to the space in the open cabin top.
The open cabin space is copied and then cut onto a flat piece of 4mm ply to become the base for the cabin roof. This will be a close fit all around as it will become the shape of the “plug” that becomes the removable roof.
The roof formers are glued onto this base.
Additional bracing can also be added to this base to stop this assembly twisting as the skins dry - even though they are always fitted in pairs (if more than one piece).
When the skins are fitted to these roof assemblies they are usually made to overlap the cabin front and sides (and sometimes even the rear too).
When dry the skins can be trimmed to be flush with the sides, and shaped to give the overlap look that is required for the front and rear (sunshade etc).
Sometimes the sides can also be trimmed to give a slight overlap if this looks better or suites the boat better than haveing them flush to the cabin sides.
Bob.
The open cabin space is copied and then cut onto a flat piece of 4mm ply to become the base for the cabin roof. This will be a close fit all around as it will become the shape of the “plug” that becomes the removable roof.
The roof formers are glued onto this base.
Additional bracing can also be added to this base to stop this assembly twisting as the skins dry - even though they are always fitted in pairs (if more than one piece).
When the skins are fitted to these roof assemblies they are usually made to overlap the cabin front and sides (and sometimes even the rear too).
When dry the skins can be trimmed to be flush with the sides, and shaped to give the overlap look that is required for the front and rear (sunshade etc).
Sometimes the sides can also be trimmed to give a slight overlap if this looks better or suites the boat better than haveing them flush to the cabin sides.
Bob.
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RodC
chugalone100
hermank
EdW
thadlietz
📝 Sprite
2 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 18 Views · 4 Likes
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I like the idea of the split screen including a slight vee to give it come additional charactor (think VW Camper) and the roof could be extended over it slightly like a mini sun visor.
Most of my removable cabin roofs are like this and it is not a problem as they are basically just a “plug” that fits in to the opening space with the skin covering forming the extended “visor” shape.
Bob,
Most of my removable cabin roofs are like this and it is not a problem as they are basically just a “plug” that fits in to the opening space with the skin covering forming the extended “visor” shape.
Bob,
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RodC
hermank
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thadlietz
📝 Adding a Reverse to Forwards Only ESC?
2 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 23 Views · 1 Like
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I am not too sure about that Chris.
Most of mine are branded ‘Sea King” but others have the Hobby King brand on them - but they are all water-cooled ‘forwards only” ESC from the same manufacturer.
Pictured is the 150A ESC that I have in my Rapier, and that one is branded Turnigy as it is sold by HobbyKing, but I have the same ones branded Sea King which I believe is the manufacturers own brand name?
When I get home I can picture some of them and the two different branded boxes they came in.
Bob.
Most of mine are branded ‘Sea King” but others have the Hobby King brand on them - but they are all water-cooled ‘forwards only” ESC from the same manufacturer.
Pictured is the 150A ESC that I have in my Rapier, and that one is branded Turnigy as it is sold by HobbyKing, but I have the same ones branded Sea King which I believe is the manufacturers own brand name?
When I get home I can picture some of them and the two different branded boxes they came in.
Bob.
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RodC
💬 Re: Classic Model Power Boats
2 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
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I wish I had a local print shop that could print a pdf into a full sized plan for me.
That would come in very handy and I could easily become a very regular customer - especially if they could also size-up or size down a plan to a specific length !
Bob.
That would come in very handy and I could easily become a very regular customer - especially if they could also size-up or size down a plan to a specific length !
Bob.
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💬 Re: Aerokits Sea Commander. Strange Handling ?
2 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
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Thanks for your thoughts Will, this has been something that was previously suggested by Chris as he experienced a similar thing on his Huntsman 28 testing and guessed that his spray rails may have been “digging-in” as the bow drops.
I think the problem is worsened on the Sea Commander as it barges it way through the water when the bow drops back down from riding on the plane.
At first I did wonder if the strakes were also contributing to this, but if you read my previous post starting “Two Sea Commanders …” the other boat that did not have any strakes acted in the same way.
To date I have seen a few Sea Commanders in action, and unless they are being driven very slowly (many are!) they all display the same action.
The difference seems to be magnified when dropping from a high speed run (when the bows naturally drop) or when turning into a wake wave or very choppy water at low speed and then opening the throttle to power into them.
I will continue to experiment with various things including the placement of different weights in different places and also test the effect of running a smaller prop that produces less torque that may or may not also contribute to this strange nose diving effect.
At this stage I am not convinced that sanding away (or removing) the spray rails at the bows will help to remove this strange willingness to dive down into the water under certain conditions, but I am considering picking up a cheap used Sea Commander to test run a plain hull with no spray rails or strakes fitted to see if it handles any differently with the same power, propeller and weight distribution etc.
I have also read the article that Chum444 offered as a reference.
Bob.
I think the problem is worsened on the Sea Commander as it barges it way through the water when the bow drops back down from riding on the plane.
At first I did wonder if the strakes were also contributing to this, but if you read my previous post starting “Two Sea Commanders …” the other boat that did not have any strakes acted in the same way.
To date I have seen a few Sea Commanders in action, and unless they are being driven very slowly (many are!) they all display the same action.
The difference seems to be magnified when dropping from a high speed run (when the bows naturally drop) or when turning into a wake wave or very choppy water at low speed and then opening the throttle to power into them.
I will continue to experiment with various things including the placement of different weights in different places and also test the effect of running a smaller prop that produces less torque that may or may not also contribute to this strange nose diving effect.
At this stage I am not convinced that sanding away (or removing) the spray rails at the bows will help to remove this strange willingness to dive down into the water under certain conditions, but I am considering picking up a cheap used Sea Commander to test run a plain hull with no spray rails or strakes fitted to see if it handles any differently with the same power, propeller and weight distribution etc.
I have also read the article that Chum444 offered as a reference.
Bob.
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hermank
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💬 Re: Aerokits Sea Commander. Strange Handling ?
2 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
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Hi Stephen, I have “spray rails” along the sides of my Sea Commander as well as strakes along the bottom skins.
The chine rails terminate at the bows and the strakes terminate where they blend in to the chine rails.
Your spray rails stop short of the bows on your Vivacity - do you have a picture of them on your Sea Commander by any chance?
Maybe where they stop has some bearing on how they affect this problem that seems to “dog” all Sea Commanders?
Bob.
The chine rails terminate at the bows and the strakes terminate where they blend in to the chine rails.
Your spray rails stop short of the bows on your Vivacity - do you have a picture of them on your Sea Commander by any chance?
Maybe where they stop has some bearing on how they affect this problem that seems to “dog” all Sea Commanders?
Bob.
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hermank
📝 VIC SMEED'S VIVACITY
2 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
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If you know the outer diameter of your prop shaft tube Nick, it would be better to cut the slot out for it now and add the doublers to retain the keel shape.
I like the way you have pieced the pine together to make best use of the width you have available and the way you have formed the “buttress” at the bow to give it the best support.
Nice work - no stopping you now !
Bob.
I like the way you have pieced the pine together to make best use of the width you have available and the way you have formed the “buttress” at the bow to give it the best support.
Nice work - no stopping you now !
Bob.
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💬 Re: Classic Model Power Boats
2 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
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Pictured alongside each other, one of these hull shapes slices through the water and one of them crashes into it like a barge.
The larger boat on the left is my 39” Rapier and the smaller boat on the right is my 34” Kopy Kommander.
Both boats have their cockpit floors removed following their runs (for a change of battery) when their comparative hull shapes become quite clear to see.
I know that one hull has a deep vee and the other does not, but it still makes an interesting comparison.
Bob.
The larger boat on the left is my 39” Rapier and the smaller boat on the right is my 34” Kopy Kommander.
Both boats have their cockpit floors removed following their runs (for a change of battery) when their comparative hull shapes become quite clear to see.
I know that one hull has a deep vee and the other does not, but it still makes an interesting comparison.
Bob.
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Madwelshman
💬 Re: Aerokits Sea Commander. Strange Handling ?
2 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
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That’s interesting Stephen, could you add a picture of them here please as maybe you have found the answer for us?
Bob.
Bob.
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hermank
💬 Re: Classic Model Power Boats
2 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
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You should never let the facts get in the way of a good story Dave 😂
Bob.
Bob.
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Oxford-Dave
📝 Sprite
2 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
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I copied your latest and your previous drawings so I could place them side by side to make it easier to compare, and yes that slight increase in depth at the bows does look better.
The model is evolving slightly from being a basic utility boat to a utility boat with some style.
Since we are “styling it up” a little bit, I admit to also wondering what a split screen would look like, with a very slight vee on it.
That may be a daft idea as the craft has a “punt nose” but if you think classic VW Camper van, the early split screen variant does have a more appealing look than the later flat screen (Bay Window) type - and they are fairly flat fronted vehicles.
When you draw the plan elevation it will be easier to see if the design would take it or not, but as a previous Bay Window owner, I have to admit that the “splittee” had more style with no other real (apparent visible) changes to the body shape.
Nice work Chris.
Bob.
The model is evolving slightly from being a basic utility boat to a utility boat with some style.
Since we are “styling it up” a little bit, I admit to also wondering what a split screen would look like, with a very slight vee on it.
That may be a daft idea as the craft has a “punt nose” but if you think classic VW Camper van, the early split screen variant does have a more appealing look than the later flat screen (Bay Window) type - and they are fairly flat fronted vehicles.
When you draw the plan elevation it will be easier to see if the design would take it or not, but as a previous Bay Window owner, I have to admit that the “splittee” had more style with no other real (apparent visible) changes to the body shape.
Nice work Chris.
Bob.
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💬 Re: LesRo Sportsman (?) Restoration
3 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
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As the previous picture showed, my replacement Tamiya razor saw came with a spare blade, so “Christine” (as I now refer to my Sportsman) has even more to worry about as I have fitted it to my old handle so I have two active razor saws in action 😂.
Tamiya have not changed any (visible) detail of this razor saw in over 25 years (maybe longer?) as the new and old saws pictured together shows.
Also shown together are the old (broken) and new blades that also look unchanged (before I broke my original copy!).
The long M5 prop shafts seen above them (the shortest is 14” long) are in stock for use on other projects.
The 17” M5 shaft is to replace the pathetic 17” 4BA shaft that came fitted in the Sea Queen that is on the bench for a refit and minor restoration.
With a decent brushless motor and a 5mm prop-shaft coupled together with a Maxi-coupling the Sea Queen should run smoothly for many years to come.
Bob.
Tamiya have not changed any (visible) detail of this razor saw in over 25 years (maybe longer?) as the new and old saws pictured together shows.
Also shown together are the old (broken) and new blades that also look unchanged (before I broke my original copy!).
The long M5 prop shafts seen above them (the shortest is 14” long) are in stock for use on other projects.
The 17” M5 shaft is to replace the pathetic 17” 4BA shaft that came fitted in the Sea Queen that is on the bench for a refit and minor restoration.
With a decent brushless motor and a 5mm prop-shaft coupled together with a Maxi-coupling the Sea Queen should run smoothly for many years to come.
Bob.
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jumpugly
💬 Re: 34" Fairey Huntsman 31 #3
3 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
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I have been able to find a copy of the Model Boats October issue in W.H.Smiths on Saturday 20th.
…. they had 5 or 6 issues in stock when I called but at £6.35 a copy the magazine needs to be good - and it was, so I am going to subscribe 😇 to make it more of a pensioner friendly purchase😂
Bob.
…. they had 5 or 6 issues in stock when I called but at £6.35 a copy the magazine needs to be good - and it was, so I am going to subscribe 😇 to make it more of a pensioner friendly purchase😂
Bob.
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ChrisF
Madwelshman
💬 Re: Classic Model Power Boats
3 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Captain)
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Maybe Dave,
….or perhaps they fitted it with a good brushless motor and a 4C LiPo and powered it into the side of the pond and were too embarrassed to to let you know just how much fun it was. 🤣
Bob.
….or perhaps they fitted it with a good brushless motor and a 4C LiPo and powered it into the side of the pond and were too embarrassed to to let you know just how much fun it was. 🤣
Bob.
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Madwelshman
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