Join Us On Social Media!
|
|
|
Download The App!
Login To
Remove Ads
Remove Ads
Login To
Remove Ads
Remove Ads
Model Boats Website
Captain)
Rear Admiral)
Commodore)
Petty Officer 1st Class)
Lieutenant)
United Kingdom
Recent Posts
📝 Sprite
9 hours ago by 🇬🇧 zooma (
Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 7 Views · 0 Likes
Flag
📝 Reply
The Two Part Engine Bed.
A mock-up was made to check the way that a two part engine bed could be made into an integrated unit when it was combined with the bulkhead that crossed the engine bay.
We had recently scrapped a large model warehouse that we had been using for some years when we used to run a truck club for Wedico radio control trucks, and this was made from 3/8" plywood.
This wood was about 8.5mm thick (in new money) and since the engine mounting plate was to be split into two parts, I thought that it would be a good idea to recycle some of this plywood to make a really sturdy engine plate on which to fix the engine mount.
Using the underside of the bulkhead templates as a guide, the front and rear halves of the motor plates were cut and shaped from this 8.5mm plywood that was used for the base and the ends, with 4mm plywood sides.
The smaller front half of the motor mounting plate was fitted tightly under the motor mount and bonded into place with J.Perkins Rapid bond PVA.
A new solid coupling was quickly machined on the ML10 as the one that I bought with the matching Powerflex coupling was a sloppy fit and I wanted the motor to be held firmly in exactly the correct position while the first of the engine mounting parts was bonded in place.
After this tight fitting solid coupling was fitted, there was zero movement of the engine and its mount and so the first half of the base was held firmly in place underneath it while a small pair of clamps held it against the bulkhead to keep everything aligned until the glue dried.
Bob.
A mock-up was made to check the way that a two part engine bed could be made into an integrated unit when it was combined with the bulkhead that crossed the engine bay.
We had recently scrapped a large model warehouse that we had been using for some years when we used to run a truck club for Wedico radio control trucks, and this was made from 3/8" plywood.
This wood was about 8.5mm thick (in new money) and since the engine mounting plate was to be split into two parts, I thought that it would be a good idea to recycle some of this plywood to make a really sturdy engine plate on which to fix the engine mount.
Using the underside of the bulkhead templates as a guide, the front and rear halves of the motor plates were cut and shaped from this 8.5mm plywood that was used for the base and the ends, with 4mm plywood sides.
The smaller front half of the motor mounting plate was fitted tightly under the motor mount and bonded into place with J.Perkins Rapid bond PVA.
A new solid coupling was quickly machined on the ML10 as the one that I bought with the matching Powerflex coupling was a sloppy fit and I wanted the motor to be held firmly in exactly the correct position while the first of the engine mounting parts was bonded in place.
After this tight fitting solid coupling was fitted, there was zero movement of the engine and its mount and so the first half of the base was held firmly in place underneath it while a small pair of clamps held it against the bulkhead to keep everything aligned until the glue dried.
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
Login To
Remove Ads
Remove Ads
📝 Sprite
11 hours ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 13 Views · 2 Likes
Flag
📝 Reply
Sprite Plus - fitting the motor mount.
With a brushless motor fitted onto the alloy water-cooled mount and joined to the 5mm prop shaft with a solid coupling, the angle of the motor mount assembly can be clearly seen.
The carbon fibre "side spats" of the water cooled motor mount can be seen to be resting nicely on top of the bulkhead cross member.
As luck would have it, the motor mounting "side spats" sit exactly on top of the bulkhead where is crosses through the middle of the engine bay giving the assembly good support in exactly the right place !
The first picture shows the front of the motor mount sitting nicely on top of the bulkhead. (Frame number 4).
The second picture shows the rear of the motor mount on the other side of Frame number 4..
The third picture shows the position that the motor will have to be mounted - partly in-front and partly behind Frame number 4.
This will necessitate the need to have one part of the motor mounting platform in-front of this bulkhead and the other half behind the bulkhead.
Bob.
With a brushless motor fitted onto the alloy water-cooled mount and joined to the 5mm prop shaft with a solid coupling, the angle of the motor mount assembly can be clearly seen.
The carbon fibre "side spats" of the water cooled motor mount can be seen to be resting nicely on top of the bulkhead cross member.
As luck would have it, the motor mounting "side spats" sit exactly on top of the bulkhead where is crosses through the middle of the engine bay giving the assembly good support in exactly the right place !
The first picture shows the front of the motor mount sitting nicely on top of the bulkhead. (Frame number 4).
The second picture shows the rear of the motor mount on the other side of Frame number 4..
The third picture shows the position that the motor will have to be mounted - partly in-front and partly behind Frame number 4.
This will necessitate the need to have one part of the motor mounting platform in-front of this bulkhead and the other half behind the bulkhead.
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
EdW
Madwelshman
📝 Sprite
13 hours ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 14 Views · 1 Like
Flag
📝 Reply
Sprite Plus.
Having had a rest over Christmas and New Year from building the Sprite Plus prototype, I thought I would take care of the next step - making and fitting an engine mounting plate.
Once this simple job is finished, the adjustable water-cooled alloy motor mount can be fitted to it before the side skins are cut and fitted.
Having fitted the solid 5mm x 5mm coupling to a brushless motor and then screwing this assembly in-between the carbon "side spats" of the motor mount, I had the precise location for the motor to be fitted after it is clamped onto the end of the 5mm prop shaft.
At this stage, I came across a problem that I have not encountered before in all of my 60 or so years of building and restoring Classic Model Power Boats.
The motor has to be mounted on top of a bulkhead that passes directly across the middle of the engine bay. Usually the engine bay is "open" and free of any bulkheads crossing it to give an "uncluttered" and "open" space to plan and fit any type of motor in the best location.
Although the bulkhead that is fitted across the engine bay has a full cut-out, the base of it still has to be "straddled" by the engine mounting plate.
The combination of the shallow angle of the prop shaft and the position of this bulkhead means that the engine mounting plate will have to be made in two halves - one half in-front of this bulkhead, and the other half behind the bulkhead!
The height of the bulkhead cut-out is only just high enough for the motor mounting sides to rest on.
The 6mm motor mounting plate cannot sit on it as it will be too high, so this bulkhead cross member will also become an integrated part of the engine bed (or engine mounting plate).
The motor plate (or engine bed) has to be "rock solid" in any Classic Model Power Boat so this has given me an interesting problem to resolve.
I could cut away 6mm from the shallow base of the bulkhead to make way for the engine mounting plate, but that would weaken the hull (the bulkhead is not very deep at this point any case) and so I have decided not to do that.
As I work my way through this, I will take some pictures to illustrate the problem as I think my words alone cannot describe the situation well enough.
The enclosed picture shows the shape of the bulkhead that runs across the engine compartment (Former number 4).
Bob.
Having had a rest over Christmas and New Year from building the Sprite Plus prototype, I thought I would take care of the next step - making and fitting an engine mounting plate.
Once this simple job is finished, the adjustable water-cooled alloy motor mount can be fitted to it before the side skins are cut and fitted.
Having fitted the solid 5mm x 5mm coupling to a brushless motor and then screwing this assembly in-between the carbon "side spats" of the motor mount, I had the precise location for the motor to be fitted after it is clamped onto the end of the 5mm prop shaft.
At this stage, I came across a problem that I have not encountered before in all of my 60 or so years of building and restoring Classic Model Power Boats.
The motor has to be mounted on top of a bulkhead that passes directly across the middle of the engine bay. Usually the engine bay is "open" and free of any bulkheads crossing it to give an "uncluttered" and "open" space to plan and fit any type of motor in the best location.
Although the bulkhead that is fitted across the engine bay has a full cut-out, the base of it still has to be "straddled" by the engine mounting plate.
The combination of the shallow angle of the prop shaft and the position of this bulkhead means that the engine mounting plate will have to be made in two halves - one half in-front of this bulkhead, and the other half behind the bulkhead!
The height of the bulkhead cut-out is only just high enough for the motor mounting sides to rest on.
The 6mm motor mounting plate cannot sit on it as it will be too high, so this bulkhead cross member will also become an integrated part of the engine bed (or engine mounting plate).
The motor plate (or engine bed) has to be "rock solid" in any Classic Model Power Boat so this has given me an interesting problem to resolve.
I could cut away 6mm from the shallow base of the bulkhead to make way for the engine mounting plate, but that would weaken the hull (the bulkhead is not very deep at this point any case) and so I have decided not to do that.
As I work my way through this, I will take some pictures to illustrate the problem as I think my words alone cannot describe the situation well enough.
The enclosed picture shows the shape of the bulkhead that runs across the engine compartment (Former number 4).
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
Madwelshman
💬 Re: Classic Model Power Boats
14 hours ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 6 Views · 0 Likes
Flag
💬 Add Comment
Hi Harry,
To answer your question - YES - your 1964 Chris Craft racing boat defiantly qualifies for inclusion here as it is definitely a Classic Model Power Boat.
Looks nice - thanks for sharing your pictures of it on here 👍
Bob.
To answer your question - YES - your 1964 Chris Craft racing boat defiantly qualifies for inclusion here as it is definitely a Classic Model Power Boat.
Looks nice - thanks for sharing your pictures of it on here 👍
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
📝 Future Fairey Projects
3 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 8 Views · 1 Like
Flag
📝 Reply
Swordsman 37.
With only so much time available, the Swordsman 37 would still be my first choice as my next model to build from scratch ....although the Solent Spear would definitely be a consideration if any reference drawings should become available in the future.
At 37" long I think that the Swordsman 37 would be a really good model that would definitely clock-up a lot of hours on the water as it could be used 12 months of the year in any weather conditions that my local lakes are likely to suffer.
I already have a good idea about just how well this boat would drive as I have clocked-up many hours of experience over the years with an Aerokits Swordsman - including racing it in an off-shore race in 1970 when it performed surprisingly well.
My slightly longer and slightly modified restored LesRo Rapier probably (and surprisingly) out-performs the Swordsman (!) and that does not please me as much as it should.
A couple of small changes were made to the rudder position and the prop-shaft when I restored the Rapier from a wreck, and I think similar detailing would work equally well on the Swordsman 37.
To see a Swordsman 37 performing as well as my Rapier would be something that I would really look forward to experiencing - and it would certainly be a much better looking model ( I never really liked the Rapier design that much!).
Bob.
With only so much time available, the Swordsman 37 would still be my first choice as my next model to build from scratch ....although the Solent Spear would definitely be a consideration if any reference drawings should become available in the future.
At 37" long I think that the Swordsman 37 would be a really good model that would definitely clock-up a lot of hours on the water as it could be used 12 months of the year in any weather conditions that my local lakes are likely to suffer.
I already have a good idea about just how well this boat would drive as I have clocked-up many hours of experience over the years with an Aerokits Swordsman - including racing it in an off-shore race in 1970 when it performed surprisingly well.
My slightly longer and slightly modified restored LesRo Rapier probably (and surprisingly) out-performs the Swordsman (!) and that does not please me as much as it should.
A couple of small changes were made to the rudder position and the prop-shaft when I restored the Rapier from a wreck, and I think similar detailing would work equally well on the Swordsman 37.
To see a Swordsman 37 performing as well as my Rapier would be something that I would really look forward to experiencing - and it would certainly be a much better looking model ( I never really liked the Rapier design that much!).
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
Madwelshman
📝 Future Fairey Projects
3 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 8 Views · 1 Like
Flag
📝 Reply
Solent Spear
I did consider using my spare glass fibre Huntsman 31 hull as the base for a model of the Solent Spear.
The Solent Spear is a very attractive looking boat and I think it would make a superb model that should perform very well.
......but I also think that this would also be a really good model to build from wood as I generally prefer to have a wooden hull than a glass fibre hull.
In a model boat, I much prefer the sound of a wooden boat in the water to the sound of a plastic hull - it just sounds nicer!
Bob.
I did consider using my spare glass fibre Huntsman 31 hull as the base for a model of the Solent Spear.
The Solent Spear is a very attractive looking boat and I think it would make a superb model that should perform very well.
......but I also think that this would also be a really good model to build from wood as I generally prefer to have a wooden hull than a glass fibre hull.
In a model boat, I much prefer the sound of a wooden boat in the water to the sound of a plastic hull - it just sounds nicer!
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
Madwelshman
💬 Re: Classic Model Power Boats
3 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 22 Views · 3 Likes
Flag
💬 Add Comment
Nice video Harry - your Classic Model Power Boats are running well!
The Aerokits Sea Rover certainly has some pace and looks very stable on the water without its deep keel, and your Aeokits Sea Scout looks good too!
Stay safe,
Bob.
The Aerokits Sea Rover certainly has some pace and looks very stable on the water without its deep keel, and your Aeokits Sea Scout looks good too!
Stay safe,
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
Madwelshman
hermank
BOATSHED
📝 Tools
4 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 27 Views · 2 Likes
Flag
📝 Reply
I don't disagree with your comments about using power tools Lew, but I still find it very satisfying to work with hand tools when I can
........even though it probably take a bit longer.....
Bob.
........even though it probably take a bit longer.....
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
Ronald
hermank
💬 Re: Fairey Fisherman 27
4 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 52 Views · 2 Likes
Flag
💬 Add Comment
Nice work Chris and an interesting model that must be very satisfying to build.
The integrated cabin will help to keep any "deck wash" water out of the hull - probably even more important with a sail boat and a round bilge hull as it will roll more than the more traditional Fairey Marines deep-vee power boat hull shapes.
Bob.
The integrated cabin will help to keep any "deck wash" water out of the hull - probably even more important with a sail boat and a round bilge hull as it will roll more than the more traditional Fairey Marines deep-vee power boat hull shapes.
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
Madwelshman
jumpugly
💬 Re: wave master hull improvements
4 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 11 Views · 0 Likes
Flag
💬 Add Comment
That looks good Stephen T 👍
Your Wavemaster 34 will steer better without the deep keel and it should also help to reduce or avoid any tendency for the hull to "nose dive" when turning RIGHT into choppy water or a wake.
You have also left enough keel on the hull to remove some more IF you should experience any future problems with nose diving.
As you have now discovered - removing the keel from a built hull is very simple and quick to acheive.
Well done !
Bob.
Your Wavemaster 34 will steer better without the deep keel and it should also help to reduce or avoid any tendency for the hull to "nose dive" when turning RIGHT into choppy water or a wake.
You have also left enough keel on the hull to remove some more IF you should experience any future problems with nose diving.
As you have now discovered - removing the keel from a built hull is very simple and quick to acheive.
Well done !
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
💬 Re: Non-Classic Fairey Builds
4 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 13 Views · 0 Likes
Flag
💬 Add Comment
All of these "just mentioned" boats should retain the superb Fairey Marine handling due to the use of the same (or very similar) deep-vee hull shapes.
As far as model power boats go, they give some alternative cabin shapes for us to try, but most would not be recognisable as being significantly different to the better known originals when seen on the water from a distance.....apart from the Campbell models with the sloped front windscreens.
Bob.
As far as model power boats go, they give some alternative cabin shapes for us to try, but most would not be recognisable as being significantly different to the better known originals when seen on the water from a distance.....apart from the Campbell models with the sloped front windscreens.
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
Login To
Remove Ads
Remove Ads
💬 Re: Non-Classic Fairey Builds
5 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 21 Views · 2 Likes
Flag
💬 Add Comment
I did find these pictures of different Campbell boats when I was looking for the Christina.
These models looks to be slightly longer (?) and have more slope on the front windscreen which I quite like.
Bob.
These models looks to be slightly longer (?) and have more slope on the front windscreen which I quite like.
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
Kennybeck
Madwelshman
💬 Re: Non-Classic Fairey Builds
5 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 21 Views · 2 Likes
Flag
💬 Add Comment
Campbell Christina,
...another boat that I didn't know anything about, and there are less pictures that I could find of this type.
Again, it has some passing similarity to the Fairey Marine models that we are much better known to us.
It would appear to be another boat from the early 1960's that was available in 23ft and 25 ft lengths.
Bob
...another boat that I didn't know anything about, and there are less pictures that I could find of this type.
Again, it has some passing similarity to the Fairey Marine models that we are much better known to us.
It would appear to be another boat from the early 1960's that was available in 23ft and 25 ft lengths.
Bob
▲
⟩⟩
Madwelshman
EdW
💬 Re: Non-Classic Fairey Builds
5 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 21 Views · 2 Likes
Flag
💬 Add Comment
Dell Quay Ranger.
I didn't know what a Dell Quay Ranger boat looked like as I have never heard of one before - so I looked it up and found some pictures of it.
It certainly looks quite a bit like the Fairy Marine Classic Power Boats that we like so much and I noticed that some of the pictures were from the Fairey Owners Club - so I assume that it has some connection?
The boats look to be from the early 1960's and the ones that I have read about are 27ft long.
Bob.
I didn't know what a Dell Quay Ranger boat looked like as I have never heard of one before - so I looked it up and found some pictures of it.
It certainly looks quite a bit like the Fairy Marine Classic Power Boats that we like so much and I noticed that some of the pictures were from the Fairey Owners Club - so I assume that it has some connection?
The boats look to be from the early 1960's and the ones that I have read about are 27ft long.
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
Madwelshman
EdW
💬 Re: wave master restoration
5 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 22 Views · 2 Likes
Flag
💬 Add Comment
As promised Stephen T - when I got back I took this picture of the Wavemaster 34 keel.
It is indeed a very deep keel.
I will be cutting this off when the hull build is completed as I am sure that the boat will steer and handle better without it.
Bob.
It is indeed a very deep keel.
I will be cutting this off when the hull build is completed as I am sure that the boat will steer and handle better without it.
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
Madwelshman
EdW
💬 Re: Where to sell?
6 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 24 Views · 1 Like
Flag
💬 Add Comment
I am not too sure where the best place to sell your model boat would be cheddarman, but if you have a local model boat club, or any friends that you sail with, that would be the most obvious place to try first.
Local model shops can sometimes also be helpful when selling on your models, but sadly they are becoming quite rare these days, but if you do have one within striking distance, it could be worth a quick call - or even a visit to see if they can help?
Online selling on places like eBay or even a site like this one can generate a lot of interest, but would probably attract more buyers from outside your immediate area, and so you would need to consider how prepared you would be to pack and send your model by carrier...or even consider delivering or meeting the buyer part-way, if they were unable to collect.
Good luck with your sale, your model looks good on the water and goes very well.
Bob.
Local model shops can sometimes also be helpful when selling on your models, but sadly they are becoming quite rare these days, but if you do have one within striking distance, it could be worth a quick call - or even a visit to see if they can help?
Online selling on places like eBay or even a site like this one can generate a lot of interest, but would probably attract more buyers from outside your immediate area, and so you would need to consider how prepared you would be to pack and send your model by carrier...or even consider delivering or meeting the buyer part-way, if they were unable to collect.
Good luck with your sale, your model looks good on the water and goes very well.
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
Rookysailor
💬 Re: Classic Model Power Boats
6 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 29 Views · 2 Likes
Flag
💬 Add Comment
Hi Nick,
Thank you for sharing and contributing to this thread with your really nice, neat and tidy LesRo Sprite.
Your workmanship is excellent and you have kept another (quite rare) Classic Model Power Boat alive and well.
Your recently built pond gives you a good opportunity to test your latest projects before committing them to a larger expanse of water - even your Vivacity can probably be test floated on it when it is finished !
The smaller Aerokits models that you mention would be better suited to the size of your pond, and allow you to enjoy slightly longer run times with less fear of crashing them than you experienced with your Sprite 🤣.
The Sea Urchin is the smallest of the Aerokits Classic Model Power Boats and is probably the model that has the most "character" as well as providing the builder with the challenge of connecting the transom mounted rudder to the steering servo without causing any leaks!
...as you suggest - I will "watch this space" for any new additions to your fleet 👍
Bob.
Thank you for sharing and contributing to this thread with your really nice, neat and tidy LesRo Sprite.
Your workmanship is excellent and you have kept another (quite rare) Classic Model Power Boat alive and well.
Your recently built pond gives you a good opportunity to test your latest projects before committing them to a larger expanse of water - even your Vivacity can probably be test floated on it when it is finished !
The smaller Aerokits models that you mention would be better suited to the size of your pond, and allow you to enjoy slightly longer run times with less fear of crashing them than you experienced with your Sprite 🤣.
The Sea Urchin is the smallest of the Aerokits Classic Model Power Boats and is probably the model that has the most "character" as well as providing the builder with the challenge of connecting the transom mounted rudder to the steering servo without causing any leaks!
...as you suggest - I will "watch this space" for any new additions to your fleet 👍
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
Madwelshman
hermank
💬 Re: Classic Model Power Boats
7 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 32 Views · 2 Likes
Flag
💬 Add Comment
Hi Chris,
I did notice that the Spearfish (and the Spear) that Harry has are also not pictured here, but it must have taken some time to arrange all of the Classic Model Power Boats that he has pictured along with his collection of interesting "working boats".
...I am also fairly sure that there are quite a few more that have not been pictured yet, but Harry's boats do all get well used and so some may be in the workshop for regular maintenance work ...?
Bob.
I did notice that the Spearfish (and the Spear) that Harry has are also not pictured here, but it must have taken some time to arrange all of the Classic Model Power Boats that he has pictured along with his collection of interesting "working boats".
...I am also fairly sure that there are quite a few more that have not been pictured yet, but Harry's boats do all get well used and so some may be in the workshop for regular maintenance work ...?
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
Madwelshman
hermank
📝 Tools
7 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 37 Views · 5 Likes
Flag
📝 Reply
A one handed plane can be a very useful tool to have when building or restoring a model boat.
This latest addition to my toolbox was seen NEW on eBay for just over £12 .....including delivery by Royal Mail!
There are several different suppliers of what looks to be exactly the same tool, but I can only comment on this one suppled by Toolzone Tools that are based here in the UK.
It is a heavy CAST IRON plane that has machined BRASS adjuster knobs and CHROMIUM plated adjustor levers to open the throat spacing and to adjust the angle of the blade.
This is a LOT of specification for the money (how do they do it?), and although the engineering finish is not as good as the more expensive planes that it is (probably) copied from, it works well and should give many years of good solid service.
The blade (iron) can be sharpened and honed in the usual way and the base of the casting could be fine polished to improve its finish - but as it comes it works well enough.
At just over 6" long it is a handy (but quite heavy) little tool that could easily earn its keep in most model boat workshops (or shed in my case!).
Bob
This latest addition to my toolbox was seen NEW on eBay for just over £12 .....including delivery by Royal Mail!
There are several different suppliers of what looks to be exactly the same tool, but I can only comment on this one suppled by Toolzone Tools that are based here in the UK.
It is a heavy CAST IRON plane that has machined BRASS adjuster knobs and CHROMIUM plated adjustor levers to open the throat spacing and to adjust the angle of the blade.
This is a LOT of specification for the money (how do they do it?), and although the engineering finish is not as good as the more expensive planes that it is (probably) copied from, it works well and should give many years of good solid service.
The blade (iron) can be sharpened and honed in the usual way and the base of the casting could be fine polished to improve its finish - but as it comes it works well enough.
At just over 6" long it is a handy (but quite heavy) little tool that could easily earn its keep in most model boat workshops (or shed in my case!).
Bob
▲
⟩⟩
Ronald
chugalone100
EdW
hermank
IanL1
💬 Re: Where to sell?
7 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 32 Views · 0 Likes
Flag
💬 Add Comment
Your MTB looks really good on the water cheddarman, and has a nice realistic speed.
Bob.
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
💬 Re: Classic Model Power Boats
7 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 35 Views · 2 Likes
Flag
💬 Add Comment
Thats an impressive picture Harry, and includes some really nice Classic Model Power Boats.......and it doesn't even include your Sea Commander or your Sea Queen.🤔
Bob.
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
Madwelshman
hermank
Login To
Remove Ads
Remove Ads
💬 Re: Other Classic Fairey Builds
7 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 18 Views · 1 Like
Flag
💬 Add Comment
Hi samc,
If you are looking for a new kit to build over 30" long and with a rear cabin, you will probably need to keep checking on ebay or for some private sales because as far as I know there are no new kits of any Fairey Marine boat with a rear cabin in current production.
The last one's that I am aware of was the Precedent kits for the Huntsman 31, and that was available in two sizes - both over 30 " long that would suite your requirements.
Bob.
If you are looking for a new kit to build over 30" long and with a rear cabin, you will probably need to keep checking on ebay or for some private sales because as far as I know there are no new kits of any Fairey Marine boat with a rear cabin in current production.
The last one's that I am aware of was the Precedent kits for the Huntsman 31, and that was available in two sizes - both over 30 " long that would suite your requirements.
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
Madwelshman
📝 Future Fairey Projects
7 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 16 Views · 1 Like
Flag
📝 Reply
Just to try to keep this on track - the Swordsman 37 with the integrated platform would be an excellent next project for us to work on together Chris.
Bob.
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
Madwelshman
💬 Re: Fairey Huntresses
8 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 25 Views · 2 Likes
Flag
💬 Add Comment
The Dave Milbourn Huntress that I have driven was the slightly larger 1/8 scale model that is kitted by SLEC.
At 34' long it was a good size model that handled the club waters at Bury Metro Club very well indeed.
I did notice another 34" Huntress running on the same water that day, and it too was running very nicely.
The Huntress is a very good looking model in whatever size suites its owner, and like every other Fairy Marine Classic Model Power Boat that I have ever driven, they work very well and aways look good on the water.
Bob.
At 34' long it was a good size model that handled the club waters at Bury Metro Club very well indeed.
I did notice another 34" Huntress running on the same water that day, and it too was running very nicely.
The Huntress is a very good looking model in whatever size suites its owner, and like every other Fairy Marine Classic Model Power Boat that I have ever driven, they work very well and aways look good on the water.
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
Madwelshman
hermank
💬 Re: Classic Model Power Boats
8 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 36 Views · 3 Likes
Flag
💬 Add Comment
Noah could be your new user name Will as all your boats seem to enter your stash "two by two" 🤣
You are not the only one to have more than one of each type of the Classic Model Power Boats that you enjoy.
My weakness would appear to be the LesRo Rapier - a design that I really did not like the look of when it first came out - but after restoring one during the lock-down I was truly impressed by its performance when I got to run it for the first time - and have since gathered a couple more of them at various stages of restoration........ but I only have one Javelin 😎
Bob.
You are not the only one to have more than one of each type of the Classic Model Power Boats that you enjoy.
My weakness would appear to be the LesRo Rapier - a design that I really did not like the look of when it first came out - but after restoring one during the lock-down I was truly impressed by its performance when I got to run it for the first time - and have since gathered a couple more of them at various stages of restoration........ but I only have one Javelin 😎
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
hermank
Madwelshman
ChrisF
💬 Re: Other Classic Fairey Builds
8 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 23 Views · 1 Like
Flag
💬 Add Comment
I agree with Will (Noah 😂) and think that the Fairey Marine power boats are some of the best looking types on the water.
Some of the mere recent derivatives such as the Solent Spear are also stunningly good looking boats and complement the traditional Fairey Marine designs perfectly.
I also like their choice of deep-vee hull forms and find great pleasure in driving them.
Bob.
Some of the mere recent derivatives such as the Solent Spear are also stunningly good looking boats and complement the traditional Fairey Marine designs perfectly.
I also like their choice of deep-vee hull forms and find great pleasure in driving them.
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
Madwelshman
💬 Re: wave master restoration
8 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 27 Views · 3 Likes
Flag
💬 Add Comment
Hi Stephen,
I used a Tamiya razor saw to cut off the unwanted section of the keel.
This saw cut away the excess keel very easily - like a hot knife through butter!
If you don't already have one of these tools, they are easily available
from a number of sources and come with a spare blade.
I have found this saw one of the more useful tolos I own for making and restoring model boats.
Bob.
I used a Tamiya razor saw to cut off the unwanted section of the keel.
This saw cut away the excess keel very easily - like a hot knife through butter!
If you don't already have one of these tools, they are easily available
from a number of sources and come with a spare blade.
I have found this saw one of the more useful tolos I own for making and restoring model boats.
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
peterd
Madwelshman
hermank
💬 Re: Classic Model Power Boats
8 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 36 Views · 2 Likes
Flag
💬 Add Comment
LesRo Javelin.
This LesRo Javelin is currently for sale on eBay - but sadly the seller lives in Welwin and it is for collection only.
This rules-out both Will and myself as it is too far away for either of us to collect.
The model is another from the era of Classic Model Power Boats that was driven by a glow plug motor, so it will need a fair bit of cleaning-up and may well have some areas of wood that are fuel soaked too.
A restoration and conversion to brushless motor power would make this into a very nice Classic Model Power Boat that would be really good to see on the water again.
Bob.
This LesRo Javelin is currently for sale on eBay - but sadly the seller lives in Welwin and it is for collection only.
This rules-out both Will and myself as it is too far away for either of us to collect.
The model is another from the era of Classic Model Power Boats that was driven by a glow plug motor, so it will need a fair bit of cleaning-up and may well have some areas of wood that are fuel soaked too.
A restoration and conversion to brushless motor power would make this into a very nice Classic Model Power Boat that would be really good to see on the water again.
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
hermank
Madwelshman
💬 Re: wave master restoration
8 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 31 Views · 4 Likes
Flag
💬 Add Comment
Hi Stephen T,
These three pictures show the different stages of the keel reduction.
The first picture shows the keel when it was reduced by about half of its original depth. When tested, this improved the handling quite a lot and helped to reduce (but not cure) the "nose dive".
The second pictures shows the keel cut down quite a bit more and this worked and solved the "nose dive" problem.
The third picture shows the hull as it is being driven now and it no longer has a problem with the nose dive.
Hope this helps,
Bob.
These three pictures show the different stages of the keel reduction.
The first picture shows the keel when it was reduced by about half of its original depth. When tested, this improved the handling quite a lot and helped to reduce (but not cure) the "nose dive".
The second pictures shows the keel cut down quite a bit more and this worked and solved the "nose dive" problem.
The third picture shows the hull as it is being driven now and it no longer has a problem with the nose dive.
Hope this helps,
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
peterd
EdW
hermank
Madwelshman
💬 Re: wave master restoration
8 days ago by 🇬🇧 zooma ( Vice Admiral)
Vice Admiral)✧ 31 Views · 3 Likes
Flag
💬 Add Comment
Hi Stephen T.
If you have experienced the dreaded "nose dive" when turning RIGHT into choppy water with your Wavemaster 34, then you do need to remove (or at least reduce) the depth of the keel if you want to cure it.
.......just like I have done and shown on the picture of my Sea Commander hull (that you are showing here at the start of your thread).
The deep keel is the CAUSE of the "nose dive" and nothing else will help to cure it other than removing it or reducing its depth.
Please read the link that I have added to the bottom of this commment as it details the exhaustive trials and testing of every suggestion offered to stop this nose diving characteristic when I first experienced it with my Sea Commander.
NOTHING WORKED to fully resolve the problem - until the deep keel was cut off.
Your comment:-
"Reglued the keel and are going to fit strips to base off hull as suggested hope this stop the diving affect"
If the 'strips" you are referring to are the triangular section "strakes" that I have fitted to my hull, then these will do nothing to help stop the nose diving characteristic.
I think the strakes look really good, but they do nothing to help prevent the "nose dive" as far as I can see - but fortunately they don't cause any problems either (!) so I am very happy to keep them on my Sea Commander
Your comment:-
"going to leave the keel intact and not cut it back as per this suggestion"
If you are experiencing the "nose dive" with your Wave Master 34, then you will continue to experience it with the keel left intact.
I hope this helps.
Bob.
If you have experienced the dreaded "nose dive" when turning RIGHT into choppy water with your Wavemaster 34, then you do need to remove (or at least reduce) the depth of the keel if you want to cure it.
.......just like I have done and shown on the picture of my Sea Commander hull (that you are showing here at the start of your thread).
The deep keel is the CAUSE of the "nose dive" and nothing else will help to cure it other than removing it or reducing its depth.
Please read the link that I have added to the bottom of this commment as it details the exhaustive trials and testing of every suggestion offered to stop this nose diving characteristic when I first experienced it with my Sea Commander.
NOTHING WORKED to fully resolve the problem - until the deep keel was cut off.
Your comment:-
"Reglued the keel and are going to fit strips to base off hull as suggested hope this stop the diving affect"
If the 'strips" you are referring to are the triangular section "strakes" that I have fitted to my hull, then these will do nothing to help stop the nose diving characteristic.
I think the strakes look really good, but they do nothing to help prevent the "nose dive" as far as I can see - but fortunately they don't cause any problems either (!) so I am very happy to keep them on my Sea Commander
Your comment:-
"going to leave the keel intact and not cut it back as per this suggestion"
If you are experiencing the "nose dive" with your Wave Master 34, then you will continue to experience it with the keel left intact.
I hope this helps.
Bob.
▲
⟩⟩
peterd
hermank
Madwelshman
Login To
Remove Ads
Remove Ads
