BTW Greg, what model is your Futaba? I might be able to find some info for you. No promises but I’ll have a hunt around 😊
Brian

BTW Greg, what model is your Futaba? I might be able to find some info for you. No promises but I’ll have a hunt around 😊

Brian

Hi Dave,

I think, and hope, you’re probably right 😊 as I’ve already experimented with the raising a lowering of the Egrete bridge from a switch using a servo in the boat.

I just have not got my head totally around how much to do/can be done in the tx and how much in the boat.

I’ll still need relays in the boat for separate switching of 4 or 5 circuits and I can’t see how to do this without separate channels for each tx button or a sequential switching unit of some kind in the boat.

It’s still early days in my education 😊

Cheers
Brian

Hi Brian
I think you will find that the Radiomaster is capable of doing all the switching and latching functions via its programming, and liked to any stick, knob or control button. I have dabbled with the Arduino but it is perhaps getting past its sell by date in electronics terms.
As regards twin throttle sticks I suspect the market never developed to make marketing a viable option for manufacturers. I have seen 3D printed versions but suspect they are not as close tolerance as the Hall effect sticks now used.
regard
dave

Hi Greg,

Thanks for your kind words. It’s a long time since I looked inside a Futaba tx so I’m not in a position to offer much advice.
However, as long as you can find a positive and negative voltage source on the board you only need to identify the PPM feed from the input side of the motherboard to the RF section. This needs to be disconnected from the Futaba RF section and fed to the FrSky XHT module.
In addition the existing aerial needs to be disconnected from the Futaba RF section and removed to be replaced by the FrSky aerial and the xtal removed.
In essence the FrSky kit is just replacing the RF section of the Futaba with a different one.
Obviously you then gave to change your rx’s to FrSky compatible D8 or D16 ones.
You do need to find room inside the tx for the XHT module. But, of course, if your Futaba has the ability to accept an alternative RF module as some rx’s do then it could be simply; but I doubt it.
Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Hi Dave,

I quite agree. Since getting mine I have added to my list of things to investigate and develop an Arduino based latching multi relay switch unit to make use of the 6, so called, chicken feet push buttons on the TX16S. I think this should compliment it really well.
I do think the TX16S is a fantastic outfit even with OpenTx but there’s no way I can modify it for twin throttle sticks so I’ll keep the F14 too 😀

You did very well! Hopefully others will try it.
I do have an older 7Channel Futura system I would lovevto have upgraded to the 2.4ghz.

Having got the XHT installed and tested I’ve tidied up the installation of the little FrSky daughter board today.
This little board, joined to the mail XHT RF board by a 4 wire cable, holds the dip switches for mode selection (D8 or D16, for instance), 2 status LEDs and a binding switch.
I could have left it floating around inside the F14 case but wanted to be able to see the LEDs whilst in operation and also bind to rx’s without opening the case even though it is very easy to do.
As I’m not using the multi- switch unit I made up a small plastic board to which I could fix the daughter board which is only 12mm x 22m roughly and had no fixing holes or space for them. The board I made is longer allowing it to be screwed to the back of the switch plate so that the LEDs shine through one of the clear plastic windows normally pushed out to make way for switches.
A careful bit of measuring allowed a hole to be drilled right through the clear cover plate and the switch mounting plate so that a little pointy thing can be inserted from outside to operate the binding switch.
Overall I’m very pleased that, apart from the 40MHz label still on the front of the case, this looks like it could be a 2022 2.4GHz F14 from Robbe.
Pat self on back 😊 tongue in cheek.

Hi Brian
The Radiomaster is truly a great piece of kit and the internal programming features will fulfil all your modelling needs.
Edge Tx is now shipped with newer models but I need to update mine as it still uses open Tx which has not fully implemented the touch screen capabilities. I also upgraded the look by purchasing some bling that also improves the operation of all the controls, pic attached.
dave

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the tip. I have actually removed the xtal: I’d like to be able to say there was a rational reason for doing so; now I can as you’ve told me why 🙂

I also have a RadioMaster TX16S which I’m hoping will allow more functionality in the tx rather than the rx or an Arduino eavesdropping and PWM manipulating 😊

I’ve programmed in most computer programming languages over the last 50 years but I’m no electronics engineer!

I agree with you re: FrSky and FlySky. I bought my 10 year old grandson a 6 channel FlySky for his entry into RC - good kit 👍

Regards
Brian

Hi Brian
I did look to see if my original post was still showing but as the kit I used is no longer available I suspect Martin removed my post. As you say it is now available as the XHT via the link I posted.
GiantCod was the main supplier but long gone under that name.
FrSky has changed over the years and whilst I was a big fan I now use FlySky for most of my boats as it meets most of my requirements.
I have a Radiomaster set which has excellent gimbals and with built in modules to cover pretty well any 2.4Ghz transmission available as well as using Open Tx or the newer Edge Tx (FrSky can also use) I prefer to the non backward compatible FrSky latest offerings.
At least the kit you have is compatible with most of the earlier offerings including the X series.
If you remove the Xtal from your set that will stop the oscillator and should reduced the power drawn.
dave

Hi Dave,

I somehow did not find your Mayhem post. I did find another that used a Corona module and I had seen references to the DHT module but I could not find a source for the it: they apparently stopped production some years ago.
Finally I was talking to a guy who used to work for several of the RC equipment manufacturers back in the 60s 70s etc and he pointed me to t9 and the XHT.

It’s this that installed in my F14. Apparently it was t9 who persuaded FrSky to do the XHT which is apparently just the J without the snap in module case.

I didn’t disconnect the power to the RF section but cut the PPM signal link and disconnected the aerial wire of course. I’m not a hardware guy and couldn’t be sure of cutting the right link wire(?) for the power.

I used the trainer socket on the F14 motherboard for power and signal.

No soldering just some crimping of these three wires.

The new XHT has no installation advice so I used a YouTube video for the Corona install.

Only problem I had was having to use the bind jumper for the V8FR-II as it’s D8. Never had to use a jumper before on any 2.4 Rex’s.

Thanks for the comment. Take care.

Brian

Hi Brian
Several years ago I posted on the Mayhem site detailing how I modified an F14 using the FrSky module. This has been updated and can be purchased from
https://www.t9hobbysport.com/frsky-xht-accst-d8-diy-module
You will also need a FrSky receiver.
It is a relatively simple task for anyone with good soldering skills and the ability to find a suitable earth and positive supply on the Tx. The only other connector is the signal connection that goes to the Tx section on the board. The original power Tx section is best disconnected to save battery power. However I used a dual pole switch so the Tx could be used on 2.4Ghz or 40 Mhz.
There are quite a few posts with pics on the Mayhem site under the "Black Arts" section that show the connections to be made. U-tube also have useful how to videos.
Good to see others are upgrading their kit to 2.4Ghz use.
dave976

Very good, will be a very nice solution to keeping the older but good quality systems alive!