Yeah, we are seperated by the big pond. Thanks anyway. It will go on my "to do list".

Lew

Lew looks like your problem is oxidation, I would carefully strip it down and try cleaning. Care with the commutator and brush gear would be needed. The other important area is the bearings.
If this all fails you could try replacing the motor with one of a similar size.
This motor is a great example of something from the past and deserves another shot at life.

Pity I am too far away to give you a hand with this.
👍

Motor doesn't work after all. Looks unusual, does anyone recognize what it is?

Looking from the back, the two vertical metal plates go into the motor housing. There is a horizontal metal magnet block between the two vertical plates. It is removable and can be seen just inside the cowling (2nd pic).

Lew

Wow - those outboards are a work of art - nice one. You could build a Mercury fishing boat like this around it if it starts https://www.scalemates.com/kits/revell-17242-gone-fishing--1480416 😎

Found this on a shelf in my utility room. I was moved around and sometimes forgotten. Maybe tomorrow I will see if it works. If it does I will look for the cover.

My best remberence is I got it in the early 1960's with an open hull speedboat.

Lew

Here is another .049 motor that I recently sold to a guy in Finland

K&B Fury Outboard

Yep, those were the days! Connect the battery to get the glow plug heated, and if you were skilled enough like you guys, get a nice run, even though it was fast forward only until the fuel ran out or you grounded the boat.

Now it is just turn on everything, run until you have had enough fun, go slow, fast, stop, reverse, come slowly to shore all while not having to talk over a loud engine sound. Switch off the motor with no oily residue.

Yep, theses are the days!

Lew

Similar here. I built a hydroplane in my teens from plans and fitted a 1.5 cc DC diesel motor to it with about 5" propeller - it went fast across Roundhay Park lake with no control but a straight line. I had to catch it before hitting the opp bank. Starting these engines was an art form - glowplugs alot easier. I have a Cox 0.75 MIB ready for fitting to a Spitfire still after all these years but am more inclined to build an RAF gunboat or MTB now with electric motor

A leather bootlace was the best for spinning the flywheels on glow and diesel marine ic engines.

I must have spent hours starting various glow-plug marine engines on my knees this way.

If a helper was available to put some weight on the hull during the starting procedure, it was a bonus, but most of the time is used my knees to grip the hull while spinning the flywheel over.

The most hours spent spinning flywheels was on my Merco 61 twin-plug Marine and OS40 Marine engines as they were the ones that I used the most.

A well run-in engine was easy to start once the correct carburettor adjustment was made to suite the fuel being used.

The most difficult engines to start were the marine diesels and my 5cc ED Viking was probably the most tricky to balance the compression setting for starting and increasing it as soon as the engine started running.

Glow plug engines were much easier to start, but the recoil starter on my various two stroke petrol engines were by far the easiest ic engines to start .

Lew, a well run in motor set correctly was easy to start. You needed a flywheel on marine engines to make up for the lack of a air prop. The groove in the flywheel was used to start. My favourite start cord was a leather bootlace that had been treated with Dubbin. I became very adept at spinning a flywheel with it. Tight the one way and loose the other way. Took two people, one to hold the boat and the other to spin the motor or you held the model between your knees. Thank goodness I now run all electric as kneeling down would be a bit of a challenge

Ed

Wolle, wise decision on getting rid of them. By going to ESCs you not only eliminate heat and power loss (battery waste) you should get more precise speed control.

Lew

Ed, looks like a flywheel/pulley start. Was the engine cantankerous? Lew

I don't know if I should post this here, otherwise please delete.
My OCEANIC was still fitted with old speed controllers. I removed them because they were power guzzlers and got hot, unfortunately I no longer have them.
But I made a youtube video beforehand.

Lew, a water prop
I searched EBay and found one for sale in the US.
Here is the drawing showing the motor placement

Ed

Ed, did the Bucaneeer use an air or water prop?

Lew

Hi Lew
As I mentioned in a previous post, I ran .049 in a Sterling Chris Craft Buccaneer, the Tee Dee .15 in the picture I ran in a Dumas Thriftaway Too. Both were tethered boats.
I then moved onto RC and used various motors most of which I still have but they all have carbs.

Regards
Ed

I don't think that these small fueled engines were ever installed in model boats. They had no throttle control. Very high RPMs for their small size. Perhaps an airboat at most. The larger fueled motors did have a throttle control on the carb. They were mostly used for racing boats before the electrics took over.

Lew

That brings back some memories EdW.

The Tee Dee range of Cox motors were the “top-end” of the engine range and gave the highest performance.

I remember looking at them in my local model shop (The Modellers Den) many times as a young lad and marvelling at their looks and wishing that I could afford to buy them all.

Unfortunately I never bought any of them, but very much enjoyed running my BabeBee in various models - and in a mount on top of an up-turned orange box whenever I had the chance - and some fuel left in the can.

Bob.

Very interesting EdW, little masterpieces.
I've never used non-electric motors for ship modeling.
Thanks for showing me these.