Hi Jock.
Yes, the frame is made of Samba wood (20 x 20 mm boards).
To join the wood, I used PVA glue with reinforcing pins.
The PMMA sheets are 4 mm thick; they are held together by grooves (as you can see in the photos and videos).
I put silicone in the grooves to glue the PMMA and wood (though I'm not sure if that was the best choice).
I didn't cut the PMMA myself; I ordered it directly with the measurements I needed, and I picked up the sheets ready-made.
I'll post photos of the construction as soon as I can.

I am faced with the same task but from what I understand in your description, the PMMA is joined by the wooden frame. How will you secure the PMMA to the wooden frame? How thick is the PMMA? How do you cut the PMMA? Circular Table saw? What kind of saw blade and what challenges did you encounter to achieve a 100% true 90degree on the corners?😊

BUILDING A SCALE MODEL SHIP DISPLAY CASE

Good morning everyone, while I was trying to complete the ship model, I also built the display case for its static display.

In this post, I'll show you the details of the drawing used to cut and mill (create the grooves for the polymethyl methacrylate sheets) the wooden strips and cut the polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) sheets.

Polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) is known by the trade name Plexiglas; for simplicity, I'll just call it PMMA.

First, I considered whether it would be better to buy it pre-made (which I would have preferred) or build it myself.
I can say that it was cheaper to build it myself, but it took a lot of time.

Before designing the display case, I spent a lot of time deciding how to make it and what material to use.

I discarded the idea of ​​making the display case exclusively out of PMMA for several reasons.
The main reason I didn't make the display case out of PMMA was that I had no guarantee of the accuracy of the cut.
No one guaranteed me a 45-degree cut with a laser. Everyone told me that laser cutting was only possible orthogonally. In that case, I didn't like how the corners would turn out (that was my thinking back then; today I would have settled for that).
A 45-degree cut was possible, but not with a laser.
The result seemed less clean, with a cut surface that wasn't perfectly smooth.
I estimated (perhaps incorrectly) that I would have to sand a lot, and the gluing wouldn't be perfect.

Among the display cases with frames, I considered various methods and materials, ultimately choosing a wooden structure.

Regarding the choice of wood and dimensions, I unfortunately realized how limited the choice is these days. I don't know about abroad, but here in Italy it's like that.
When I was a boy, there were specialty shops with countless varieties of wood of all sizes. They no longer exist.
The initial idea of ​​drawing first and then buying the pieces failed.
I first had to see what was available and then design based on that.
In the end, I chose 20 x 20 mm Ayous (Samba) wood planks (square-based prisms).
I don't regret choosing this type of wood at all. On the contrary.
It's a compact but very light wood (the lightest I know after balsa), and it's very cheap.
From the 3D drawing, I was able to extract several PDFs to work on the individual pieces.
Furthermore, from the 3D drawing, I was able to calculate the dimensions of the PMMA sheets, considering the distance between the grooves minus about 2 mm of tolerance and for the glue.

In the images and video, the blue parts are the wooden ones, while the green ones are the PMMA ones.