Rib numbering: Yes you are right. You will see later on

These will keep you busy, good luck and lots of patience for your build.
Scamp🤞

Hi Ross.

You have finally created your model topic. I am very happy with this.
Thank you for sharing these images and explanations.

I hope you have plenty of photos for us to see through to the current stages of construction. I like to understand the methods and techniques that other modelers use.

What scale is the model?
Will it be a static or dynamic RC scale model?

suspense...

I follow you.

This is fantastic Ross! Keep the pix coming!!!

Great job with the Bluenose Ross!

I see you have a lot of space and professional equipment.

You are a professional rather than a hobbyist, I believe that you can easily build the display case yourself.

Can’t wait to see the built up hull shape,

Love the jig Ross! It's inspired, I'm running to the Home Depot to get my butt to the closet and shelving department! 😉

Hi RossM.

I was right in saying that you were a professional and not a hobbyist model maker.

This method of yours is very original and very precise, it's the first time I've seen it.

I also used 3mm planks for my Tanker model but pulled the nails after the glue set. Mistake? I glassed the entire hull over 2 coats of 2 epoxy sealer.

I pushed in with pliers as far as possible, then pulled them snug from the inside, and trimmed them off. Glued and nailed. Fibreglass later on
I used to drive snowplow for 29 years, I don't like it when things break🤓

It’s looking great I’m amazed at how quickly its coming along

Sorry to burst the bubble but. . .
A row of planking would take about a day to cycle through soaking, fitting, trimming to fit, drying and installing. I could install one row of planking on each side per day, but there were other things to do each day. What you see here is detail of the inside, keel at the bottom starboard at the top. What you have seen, so far, is about 2 years of off and on building. This does complete this chapter, the roughed out hull is done. Next episode begins a new chapter of the build, so stay tuned

You're making excellent progress it seems 👏

Hi Ronald, great team work.

Beautiful sailing and beautiful lake, what's it called?

Do you have other videos?

Hi Ross, my experience is that rip stop nylon is the last choice I would make as I do not like the pattern in the material.

I favour a dense cotton fabric, I use a simple glueing system which has stood the test of time.

I hope I am not teaching you to suck eggs but are you aware of the way the sails should be cut from the material?

All the best
Roy

Hi Ross sounds like you are ahead of the game.
I like plain sails with no patterns.

I do have a yacht with rip stop sails, they came in another kit But not keen on them.

Good luck though, regards, Roy

. . . but a really good shot of the throat halyard attachment and the lazy jacks detail. Everybody gets pictures of the front of the hoops, hard to find sail attachment

Your comment on being at BN 2 last summer reminded me of the RICK MERCER REPORT of Rick SLUSHING THE MAST

thanks Jock

Hi everyone.

JockScott you were very lucky to have seen her up close.

Ross, if you really want to look for this information (and you're not joking as usual) you have all my admiration.

Great to have found your right proportion between diameters.

My opinion on nails: I would see them as better made of brass or bronze and with a slightly smaller head.
Experiment and see which size you like best. When I didn't have small nails I filed the heads.

Tomorrow I'll look on my PC for photos of the attachments of the mast hoops to the sails and I'll attach them to you.

Hi RossM, the research continues but in the meantime you can see these three images.
The second and third were already part of those I had sent.
Are they not enough for you to understand how the mast hoops were related to the sail?

Ross, while I see if I have other images, besides the ones already posted, I'll talk to you about the pegs.

I bought pegs of various sizes from this modeling shop. It's always a good idea to have various sizes just in case, but it's also fine to modify them as you do.
Brass costs more but they don't rust and are easy to file, cut or bend.

https://www.rocrimodellismo.com/it/chiodini/2163-chiodini-in-ottone-finissimi-da-10-mm-150-pezzi-circa.html

https://www.rocrimodellismo.com/it/2-home

Here's my attempt at mast hoops:

(when I click in the link it takes me to the right blog, but not the right post - you have to scroll down).

https://model-boats.com/blogs/86653#94974

You are quite free about the system for tying the mast hoops to the sail.
You can choose between different thicknesses of rope and decide whether to pass it once or more (as these girls do and as I did).
Basically it involves tying a wooden ring to the hole on the edge of the sail.
Probably you and I, even if we hadn't seen any photos, would have done this (or something very similar).

Yes, they look just like steel bolts.

I know you guys are going for authenticity and I’m all for that don’t get me wrong. When building the schooner in 2022, Gary Webb advised me to use abs water pipe. It cuts verily easily and it works well.

They are very realistic, you did an exceptional job, really good.

Hi TOMARACK!

You mean like this stuff? Available in 4mm, 5mm, 8mm, and 10mm, in my model sail loft. Seams are interlocked together so that no seam loose edges are showing on either side. Three strips of double-backed tape per seam. I have 8 sails to deal with, 63 panels, and 55 seams plus hems. I am about two-thirds the way through seaming. The draft for these sails is SUPPOSED to be 20% at 40% chord depth. So far I am close. The foresail was thrown out and is in re-do. ALIGNMENT!! The current teaching sailcloth is simply polyester cotton left overs. When i pass SAILMAKING 1 I will move up to 36 gram RIPSTOP. The seams are 4mm overlap then folded to hide the edges, and taped again. Is this tape 3M sufficiently strong enough adhesive to operate without oversewing?

here is next link

To Ross .. Is it the one or similar. The width of the tape according to the size of the sail. I used such tapes mainly when gluing Ripstop material, both for gluing parts together and for gluing edges. My friends mainly use this technology. We use mainly
3M tape 4 - 5 mm overlap. I even use this tape for gluing boltropes to big cotton sails for model and for gluing boltropes in general.
You can find many similar tutorials on YouTube

Tom

Tom,
Drawing of typical seam shown in cross-section 4mm wide seam.
Are you sewing through the tape after or not sewing at all? Does the tape hold by itself without sewing the seam? I am using tape in between each layer of the seam.
4 layers of cloth
3 layers of tape

You have plenty of sail there Ross. Remind us how large your boat hull is 😉

"I was teasing", certo.
Well I thought of 183 cm by eye, you measured it, it doesn't apply. Joke.

About that:
"The JIB TOPSAIL will need to be pulled over the mainmast forestay, so 2 sheets, port and starboard, will be needed to handle the JIB TOPSAIL. Likewise, the JIB will need to be pulled over the foremast, requiring so 2 sheets, port and starboard, to handle the JUMBO runs quite normally with its JIB BOOM."

I don't think I understood very well due to the translation. A drawing would be useful.
However, if I haven't misunderstood, your system seems valid to me but very difficult to create as an RC model.
If I'm not misunderstanding, I thought about doing it that way too but then I gave up.
In practice it is very similar to the real system. I couldn't do it like this, have you seen what mine is like?
Maybe you pass the sheets through two different holes and control them with a spool below deck?
Ah! Maybe I understand, you exploit the already existing closed loop.
A sheet is bullshit and a sheet is pulled.
I can not wait to see it. I will learn a lot and I could probably copy you in the future.

You wrote:
"I don't think there is enough time to change it during tacking."

So for you it's just a matter of time. You are very ahead of me, because I really can't imagine how I could do it in an RC model, even having all the time available.
When sailing I would find no other solution than to remove it so as not to prevent the foresail and top foresail from changing tack.

However this model becomes more and more interesting and I can't wait to see it in the water.

Ok Ross, I think I understand, you were very clear (this time I didn't use the translator and it was better).

The doubt that remained with me was this: when the staysail is gathered back towards the mainmast (to ensure that the FORESAIL moves to the opposite side when tacking or jibing) aren't there still two running riggings left (between the foremast and mainmast) to prevent this manoeuvre?
Maybe they will be stretched enough to not stop the movement?

However I have the impression that when I see the system in action or in a drawing I will say: "ah that's how it worked! Well done Ross".

Do you mean just one servo (besides the one for the jibs) for all the other sails? A total of two servants for the whole ship?

Thank you very much RossM for your explanations, everything is clear to me now.

In reality, what was happening above deck was already very clear beforehand but I had many doubts about what was happening below deck. Now thanks to your descriptions it is much clearer.

However, I wanted to ask you one more question, but you didn't do anything wrong, absolutely, it's just my curiosity, I hope it won't bother you.
Keep in mind that I like many models being worked on on this forum but I consider some to be more interesting because they are more difficult.
Commanding all these sails is not a given and yours is one of the most difficult jobs to complete.

I wanted to know if you have already tested this system for jibs before or not. I'm asking you because initially I too thought of this system, as it was much more realistic.
But then I gave up due to the various difficulties I couldn't deal with: firstly I had too little space, secondly I feared that this system would only work in theory because in practice the sheets (as thin as mine) would get tangled.
You certainly have more space as it is a very large model but I don't know how you will manage the second problem.
What worries me is that the sheet is not under tension when it loosens (unless you count on the traction of the wind which however is not a certain guarantee of strength or constancy), but only when it is furled.
I'm curious to see how you'll do it (because I'm sure you've already found the solution or will find it) and learn.

Alessandro,
Thank you for the continuing questions. Yes. You have identified a definite problem.
1. Starting at the winch, I chose a winch speed that would allow fast enough speed for the sheets.
2. I tested the winch with a 2 kilogram weight. It passed the test.
3. I was told to NEVER use twisted string/thread for a sheet. It will wrap up and twist. The photo shows heavy twisted thread and the braided cord. What I chose was a braided nylon cord approximately 1.5mm diameter. It is commonly used as cord on window blinds and is available in large quantities for a reasonable price. It is similar design to braided lines used on many full sized boats
4. The lines running below deck will be contained in plastic tubes from just beyond the winch to the surface of the deck. Hence the need for overpowered winches, to compensate for the string/plastic pipe friction.
5. As for the 2 upper jibs, they are on a closed loop system of starboard-port sheets.

Please, keep the challenging questions coming. You will find a place where I have slipped up. (I have done again 2 of the sails for critical errors that I caught)

Hi RossM, sorry but the translation brought back some illogical sentences.
I don't think I fully understand how you want to maneuver the staysail.

I didn't come up with any good ideas for maneuvering the foresail and topforesail despite the presence of the staysail.
I tried to imagine a system but the running rigging would still get in the way even with the sail folded up.

This theme on staysails interests me a lot because I have never used them (unlike jibs for which I had devised my own method).
I'm really curious to see how your system works.

I hope someone can give you more qualified opinions.

The transmitter is a FLYSKY FS-i6 6 channel, connected to FS-iA6B 6 channel receiver, running 6 servos, (one rudder and 5 winches). 1 servo for each channel.

3 channels are running 2 sails each
1 JIB & JIB TOPSAIL
2 FORESAIL & FORE TOPSAIL
3 MAINSAIL & MAIN TOPSAIL 6 sails
2 channels are running 1 sail each
1 JUMBO JIB
2 STAYSAIL 2 sails

8 sails when the STAYSAIL control is complete
5 WINCHES

An interesting concept Ross, 5 servos serving the sails. I have enough problems using all 6 channels on another boat where non essential things are operated on 4 of the channels, so what it will be like trying to sail your boat using all 6 channels I just can't imagine. Tricky to say the least !
Good luck . 😉

The latter Ross. Remembering which control to use for the desired purpose. Each time I went to the lake it would take me at least 30 minutes to remember what to do; sometimes much longer. But then, at my age everything takes longer, and sometimes doesn't happen at all !! 😉

Yes, I used to find it would take 10 hours of operation to get to the point that I didn't have to think about it, just do it. Skid steers and snow plow trucks

Hi Ross, I read your answer on the channels and I must say that I too would have difficulty commanding a ship having to operate on six channels.

In addition to being a good builder, you are a skilled pilot, very good.
Why did you make this choice?
I'm interested to know (for my future projects) why so many servos and why so many dedicated channels (five winches and five channels if I understand correctly).
For the winches I figured you wanted to make sure you had the right strength.
For the five channels I didn't imagine an explanation because I didn't find any advantages in controlling the sails individually.

However, I can't wait to see the drawings to understand how you laid out the winches and what the rope system looks like.

Excellent Ross, it couldn't be clearer than that.
You are an excellent pilot and steering six channels will be a breeze for you. I understand this, I envy you and admire your abilities a lot.
But let's leave Ross the driver for a moment and talk to Ross the builder.
If I (for my next project) wanted to follow your philosophy, what practical advantages would I have in controlling the sails selectively?
I'm asking you because I would like to make improvements and any advice is useful.

Sounds like three good reasons to me, Ross. Especially the first one.
The choice is not irreversible and you can reduce the control to fewer channels (if you deem it appropriate or simply for comparison) very easily.
I await your response on this matter with curiosity.
After the water tests you will be able to tell me (from your direct experience) what the advantages and disadvantages are.

Hi Ross.

First of all, congratulations on your ingenuity and ability to come up with original solutions.
These videos and these discussions make naval modeling not only enjoyable but absolutely exciting for me.

I really like your experimental model, done before applying it to the real RC ship.
I understood everything except this sentence: "stick in center represents the leach of the foresail" because leach is translated in an unlikely way.
However, the video is very explanatory and keeping in mind that the bow faces to the right and the stern to the left, the mechanism is clear.

I only have one doubt left. Won't these current maneuvers (indicated with red arrows) still prevent the foresail from changing tack?
Are you counting on it being very loose when the staysail is close to the mainmast?

Perfect Ross, everything is clear to me now.

I assumed you were counting on the (lee) sheet being very loose. Now you have given me confirmation.

Could it be something like this drawing?

I can't wait to see your system work on the schooner.

Hi Ross, for jibs I think you'll do something like this.

Hi Ross. An interesting method of controlling the winches. Very old school but probably very reliable.👍

Hey Ross!
Such ideas and tips are simple and effective. Thank you . . .
very cooool!
BG Michel-C.

It's OK Ross, it looks like you are on the right track.
Lew
Florida, USA

Does this mean that having five servos now, you have also increased the number of your fingers to help control everything?😁😁😁😁

Ross - I also have 6 channels on my transmitter, and trying to co-ordinate 3 at once often sends the yacht the wrong way - your brain power and co-ordination must be exemplary.

Intravenous Lucky😉
The pretty young lady is the nurse who monitors the drip 😁

Cheers, Doug😎

Hi RossM, I'll start from the last part of your message:
"Remember from an earlier discussion. I ran 5 tonne plow trucks, ..."
Yes, I remember your skills as a driver, I have no doubts about your skills, I have doubts about my skills (or rather certainties, because I'm sure I'm not capable).
Your model can only be driven by you (I have an opposite philosophy, I try to make it easy for everyone), but it's terribly interesting and I admire your work. I'm enjoying it step by step.

You know better than me what the use of twisted cables is, joker. Of course they are not always necessary, I have not used them and I have no problems (as long as everything goes well...) but the purpose of twisting cables is known.

Instead you must forgive me if I still haven't understood something. I hope you will be patient.
I'm sure that after your explanation I will hit my hand on the head and say: "what an idiot I am, I could have figured it out by myself".
So I was left with the idea that you controlled the sails like this:
five channels for the sails and the sixth for the rudder.
You divided the sails like this:
channel 1 & 2 right thumb for 2 jib winches
channel 3 & 4 left thumb for fore & main winches
channel 5 left index on rotary switch for rudder
channel 6 right index on rotary switch for staysail winch

What I didn't understand is the presence of switches, what are they for?
I imagined that each winch went to wind a sheet directly (as for example you can see in the image of the jib that you explained to me some time ago).
I see that each servo, instead, acts on a switch.

I tried to make a hypothesis (but the best thing is to wait for your answer) and it is this: Maybe the channel command acts on the servo that acts on the switch, which activates the winch. Is that so?
If I'm talking nonsense, don't pay attention, it will be my moment of lapse in attention.

Ok twisted twisted, that's the right word. You're not at all lenient with my bad translation. Blame Google.
Luckily you managed to figure out what I meant.

I don't want to give you advice but since you still have time you could consider other solutions to simplify the matter.

If I understood correctly, in this way the winch (the final element of this chain: SERVO-SWITCH-WINCH) will be activated either completely rolled up or completely unrolled.

If, instead, you activate the winch directly with the knobs you can adjust the sail as you want (even in the intermediate phases).

Furthermore you will avoid using servos (you could use them for other things) saving money, space and current absorption.

You have, on your radio control, two knobs (that maintain the position) a lever (two channels) that maintains the position and a lever that does not maintain the position and returns to the zero point.

If the problem is represented by the lever that returns to the zero point. I believe that a simple modification can be made by removing the small return spring.

If I am completely off track please tell me and explain why.

P.S. Anyway, now I finally understand what the inspiration I gave you was.

Hi RossM, with this exchange of messages I understood well what you mean to do and this is already a good result for me.

"The switch is a double pole double throw DPDT(does that translate?)" I didn't understand this well but I understood the general sense of what you mean to do.

Yes you're right, there are three commands that return to the zero point by themselves, two on one stick and one on the other stick.

"Otherwise I have to move it back to centre manually"
Is this a problem? Don't you like to re-centre the zero manually (I mean with the stick from which the springs have been removed)?
I'm thinking that even for the two knobs (and for a movement of a stick) you have to search for the zero point yourself. They don't go there by themselves, right?
These are just hypotheses, reasonings, thoughts written out loud.

I have added a self centering spring to my Turnigy(FlySky) i6 transmitter on the throttle stick.
Quite easy to do and the parts are cheap.
What transmitter do you have?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295852178493?itmmeta=01J4Q94VQKXHB0SC3A0060NWVW&hash=item44e229fc3d:g:Go4AAOSw-ZhkyL1U&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAA1CcS%2BcFOxxLPWCqweThekbVVekt2FYIBr4tsXZVqegnYUbW%2FpVcTqPHlruG57kG6Fdl7dGvDbWdRqjZbWPKG8fI9tG%2FDCaGThXp%2FHHDQuCLjuCX%2BF%2BUliz3qDNVtGHLagkXqWERoN8hlSPW22zheRv7%2B%2F7fI3ELg3NGO393v8bXYDotOmoLdu0wsGgxlZO76%2FYwdb8%2FziD3nchdtE1oTX8X7JjJpckWeSIO74Lpn%2BWePUZ5KWO0Pfye9WoJP02TQ7t38eLqOLQ7m7BhU60YTn0Hod4HtC5thQhI2jy5jrolkwtOGclzcL01UZfUi286iqmqKzTnWDtDyjMJzjmp2c%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM7ruT6aVk

Hi Ross.
There are some YouTube videos that show how the spring is fitted, this is just one of several:

Rob.

I'm pleased that you found it helpful 😊👍
Rob.

Robbob,

stick now centers. nerve wracking with that tiny spring☹️ Thanks for all your guidance

These are so COOL!

Did you make the drums, they look really good

Thanks Ross👍

Hi Ross, we will be amazed to see all the servos and winches working together.
This naval model will be amazing to see even before we get in the water, make lots of videos please.

I thought you'd made 'em from cotton reels😉
Nice job👍

😎

Are you getting revenge Ross? ahahahaha.
Yours is a much more interesting and difficult dilemma than my little playful question.

Jokes aside, looking at (and above all admiring) your hull inside I was wondering if you intend to strengthen it with brushes of epoxy resin.
I ask you because I don't see many transversal support structures amidships (and it's an advantage because you have all the free space). If you've already covered this topic and I've forgotten, please excuse me.

You will probably put the batteries in the center. I believe servos and winches will correspond to the respective sails and rudder.

I'm curious to see the internal layout. Please take lots of photos and videos.

Mr Holmes, I believe the game is afoot😁

Yes Ross, of course you can put the beams on each rib, you don't have to show them to me, I believe it. The question is that if you put them, how do you access the inside of the hull to replace the batteries, or for maintenance/repair of any faults?
The question could be asked in another way: which and how many openings on the deck do you intend to make?
However, I think I understood that I would not use epoxy resin to reinforce the hull (I mean only inside of course).
I would definitely put it, one hundred percent, because the advantages are too high not to put it. Basically, as already said, you get a very resistant shell, in exchange for an insignificant increase in weight and bulk.
However, I am not recommending it, in fact forget what I told you, because I would not want to be the cause of some problem with the epoxy resin. Not all epoxy resins are easy to handle and, certainly, they are not healthy. In fact, they are very toxic.
On the count of three forget all my nonsense: one, two, three, ahahahahahah.

Perfect.
When I see it I will be able to understand much better.

Hi Ross, sorry if I ask you questions but don't overestimate me. I need to understand, give me some more details and don't assume that I understand everything.
For example, what data do the columns of A, B, C and D contain and in what units of measurement are they expressed?
Are you going to calculate the areas of the immersed sections, then multiply each one by the distances between them and finally add these portions of volume or do you adopt another method that you studied?
Do you remember the method that I used for JockScott, the alternative to the software, is it the same or similar?
Sorry if I ask stupid questions.

One thing is very clear: you know the displacement of the original Bluenose therefore, since you know how to apply the scale factor to the volumes, you easily arrived at the measurement that you should finally obtain, that is about 18.6 liters.
Congratulations, a real beast to transport.

Hi again another thing I frequently do is to work out the expected underwater volume of the prototype and then work out what size model I want.
Then scale it down. This usually produces a hull which is either too light or unstable. Using experience to judge what a practical model should weigh, I see about making the hull larger.

Some years ago I was asked to take a scale display model of a sailing yacht, and make it a practical sailing boat with RC.

The model is a metre long but weighed in at just 7 pounds. I calculated a minimum displacement of the hull for sailing and decided on around 11 pounds.

Lots of thinking came up with having no noticeable changes in hull shape. I did this by double planking with the first planking at 3mm and then the kit supplied 1mm planking diagonally on top. Unexpectedly the fine point of the bow increased the length by 2 cm, well you can't think of everything!

This was not enough. I gained the rest by making the keel fatter and extending it down by about 6 inches and then fitted a bulb keel.

The model is still available as a kit and is the Amati Endeavour Americas cup yacht at 1:35 scale.
The yacht has an enormous sail area and would overwhelm the model. So this was cut back which also allowed a backstay to be fitted.
You may have to pay extra for the conversion information.

Roy

Have you tried the old methods? I get a good estimate using the Prismatic coefficient.
This takes the immersed centre area bulkhead area multiply by the length at the waterline and apply the coefficient for that type of hull which will be a decimal value.

Yachts are around 0.45 - 0.55 ranging to bulk carriers at 0.95. A solid block would be 1.0.

Another way for similar ended hulls is to treat the ends as half each so two ends = 1 and then calculate the centre portion.

The first programme I ever wrote was to produce a look-up fanfold printout to do just this. That would be in 1966 and written in PLAN.
I hate programming! It can take you over thinking about it. I leave it all to my son.

https://www.nautilusshipping.com/form-coefficient-of-ship

Roy

I started learning the basics from an EUP notebook size book called 'Teach yourself Naval Architecture'

I got halfway!
Roy

Good evening to all naval modelers.

I mainly answer to the double R: Roy and Ross, but this message is for all modelers interested in this topic.
I thank Ross for reopening it.
Actually, let me say one thing: I really like it, in fact I adore "much ado about nothing".
I already said that for those who design a hull for a sailboat from scratch, knowing certain information is important, in fact essential. But here we talk about it for pure pleasure and I like to hear your ideas, especially from people so prepared and sharp.

Tonight I really got behind with the messages, there is a lot of meat and cooking and I hope I understood everything you said.
I will reread it better even after this message.

So I start from Roy's message in this topic that begins like this: "Have you tried the old methods? I get a good estimate using the Prismatic coefficient..."
And I will follow the discussion in chronological order.
I speak as a layman and ignorant compared to you but the prismatic coefficient method, although valid, is not the most precise, in my opinion.
It is certainly the fastest.
If you remember, in the topic (see link at the end) of the Esso Deutchland tanker by JockScott (hey Jock, greetings from me, you see that your question was very interesting) we had addressed this issue.
More precisely in message no. 33 of that topic, dating back to about nine months ago, I had compared the final results of three methods to calculate the immersed volume.
The methods were the following:
- 3d software method.
- mathematical/geometric method (without 3d software).
- prismatic coefficient method.

The most precise value is the one provided by the software. However, you need to have the software and you need to know how to use it.

The prismatic coefficient method is fast but the least precise.

The method I called "mathematical/geometric" is very laborious and long, but precise and does not require software.
I will not repeat it here (I described it in the second attached link).
I have not read it anywhere, it seemed the most logical and natural to me, especially when I learned to draw (badly and little unfortunately) with Rhinoceros.
Of course I have not invented anything new and who knows how long it has been used. I simply want to say that (for having arrived at it by myself) it is quite simple and intuitive.

Before moving on, a question please: in point no. 1, where you write:
1 Measure area of ​​2 adjacent stations.
Are you referring to submerged sections? In that case, how do you calculate the areas of sections with curved lines (that are not circles, ellipses, parabolas, hyperbolas etc. etc. i.e. not identifiable by a mathematical formula or function)? Do you use the method I used for JockScott?

The method that Ross intends to follow, instead, seems different from all the three listed. I think I understood it from these sentences of yours:
"This isn't the usual 'measure the area of ​​the cross-sections and multiply by the length' I did that in high school, and it worked well. I want to try something different this time. This is not my tested and proven method yet. It is still being developed."
Probably the method you discarded is, with some small variations, the one I prefer and use (in the absence of software).
Well, this intrigues me a lot. I am absolutely curious to see it.
It doesn't matter if it won't be a sure success, the mere fact of trying is a merit from my point of view, you have all my moral support.

Well, now let's get to your method.
I think you explained it from the point where you start with this sentence:
"So, visualize an imaginary box that the vessel ..."
I have to be honest. I need to reread it a few times and maybe I'll ask you more questions to understand better, (sorry but translations always put me in difficulty) but like this, at first glance, it seems to me a compendium between the calculation method that Jock Scott empirically did and infinitesimal calculus (but very empirical-practical and without formulas).
If I understood correctly, this method becomes more precise the more cubes of subdivision there are. That is, if instead of 28 units you use many more (increasing the subdivision) you increase the precision.
However, whether I understood or not, it is truly a method that interests me a lot, logical and not impossible to apply in practice. You have my full attention. I will follow all the developments.

Finally, I take a small step back to your question:
"Question I ask here, are there techniques that will allow paper drawn curves to be transferred to computer hull design programs? "
I don't know if I have understood your doubt perfectly but I can tell you that if I have a drawing done on paper, after having scanned it, I have no problem with Rhinoceros to trace all the lines (frames, keel, water lines etc. etc.) in order to reproduce the drawing on Rhino. Creating the hull surface and the volumes is much more difficult (at least for me, not for the good ones).
I already did it for the JockScott tanker.
So if I understood the question correctly, the answer is: Yes, it can be done.
However, if I understood the question correctly, if my answer is correct, your method continues to interest me a lot.

https://model-boats.com/forum/131081

https://model-boats.com/wiki/133196

Remembering back too many years I recall multiplying frame areas 1-4-2-4-2-4-1 and doing things to them I have forgotten.

On another point of kit production by Deans. Ron told me that they obtained permission to produce models from original plans by Camper and Nicholson.

We had a couple of motor yachts, Melita and Dufresne and the very large yacht Blue Leopard. The proviso was that he could use only the prototype drawings and not adjust them for a model.

I talked to Ron when Blue Leopard was first put on the market. He challenged me to find out what he had done. As I knew what to look for I saw he had made the keel very wide to gain more displacement.

I was hoping to have the model to do a build review for the International Boat modeller magazine. The then editor was also a yachtsman and did not like the way it was set up as a model and said he did not want it reviewed.
I was a bit 'iffy' about it as well so there we are.

If anyone is interested the original Blue Leopard model yacht, which when viewed, does look good on the water is now on sale.

I have sailed this one as Ron let me take her out for a spin at the late Pangbourne model boat show now defunct and she does sail well.

Roy

I lean more to de Cervantes than to Shakespeare

Roy

Please clarify, what do you mean by, EXTENDED KEEL. The keel here is shown darker than the rest of the drawing

If you look at the hull lines, draw the limiting line under the hull before it drops at right angles to the keel. Everything above is the hull to use in calculations.

The keel is then measured almost as a trapezium in cross-section by the area.

With a hull built and ready to float and weighted correctly fore and aft. I put the hull into a bath full of water. I do not make big ones any more!

I have already put some cheap masking tape around the middle and side of the hull. With a pencil I push the hull sideways through the water.
Find the sweet spot where the hull moves evenly, not going to one side or the other, and mark it.
This is the CLR.

When the sail area calculations are done and the C of E of the sail area is worked out, it is this point that should be placed 4% ahead of the waterline length. This will give a nicely balanced sailing attitude.

The mast can then be mounted in the position already determined by where the C of E is to be. I do all this before working out where access and s/s should be.

By this I mean with sails at 30 degrees she will sail a straight course with no rudder adjustment needed.

My last 3 yachts have been set up in this way and they work fine.
With Bella there was a set mast position on the plans, I ignored this and moved the mast position back aft 2cms, which was as far as I could.

To get a better balance, i installed a bowsprit and the fore jib is moved forward until the C of E is just ahead of the CLR by 4%. The length of the bowsprit was now determined. Fittings were soldered up and she looks just right as well!

The fore jib is on a loop and fixed, but after a year sailing her I decided to have a standard servo with a small arm fitted to pull in the fore jib sheet and tighten sail.
The effect is dramatic! Careful control creates a wind slot for the jib and main sail and she speeds up.

Roy

Hi all, nice to do the maths but which is most important, the calculation and solution or constructing a practical model?

When scaling down from a prototype as we know, hulls and sails do not change in proportion to each other. I start from the size of the finished model, i.e. will it fit in my car and also have a place in the house.

So working out a suitable hull size comes first. Dividing the model length into the prototype length gives a scale. The cube of the scale gives a 'scale displacement', in some scales just not practical! All my models have to earn their living at the lakeside.

It is fortunate that to make a model sail, the invisible part under the water can be doctored in many ways.
The models by Glynn Guest have relatively crude hulls and what used to be called 'stand off scale' appearance. I have built several and they look good on the water. I also enjoyed the construction.

So we have to decide where your interest lies? Doing exact calculations for hull displacement is conditioned by sailing in water (and waves) that have obstinately remained at full size.

Hull displacement calculations could have a 10% error but it would not be noticeable when on the water. Bearing in mind that all the mentioned calculations have an end in practical sailing.
If only constructing a display model the numbers are irrelevant!

It reminds me of the radio control of the 1950s where the boat was the least important aspect of the model!
Just my two pennorth!
Roy

Hi Ross agree entirely! The 4% I quoted is for the yacht illustrated it has also worked for a standard Bermuda rig.

I have a schooner on the back burner and thanks for your info advising 7 % I will take note of that and apply.

Always learning! I love it!
Best
Roy

CE:LCP schooner is truthfully a range 7-12% (I am aiming for 7 and hoping for 12)

Hi Ross, sorry for the delay in replying to your PM, check your private messages folder now.

Sorry Ross, I only replied to the private message now. I read it some time ago, with the intention of replying as soon as possible and then I forgot.
In my haste I may have made some mistakes, bear with me.

Re: ...while the hull and INCREASED number of winches were heavier than estimates. coming out almost even, loss for gain in weight. This will assist in lowering the center of gravity and rolling moment...

Depends.
It depends on the position of the winches.
If they are very low it is better that their overall weight has increased, otherwise not. It's a good thing that the sails are lighter logically.
However, to be safe I would consider them wet.
The sails could always get wet or damp (unless you use waterproof fabric; then you are safe).

I know you've already written it but can you tell me how much just the ballast (fin and bulb) weighs please?

Hi Ross, I want to answer you honestly, but I can't focus the image.
Can you take a better photo?
You mean the keel?
Take several photos, including one on-axis.

11 months ago you posted this photo. Is this the same model you are asking about today? Come on fellow model builders let’s help Ross with this project.

You may need to enlarge your rudder.

Here is what Gary Webb said about RC model boat rudders versus their full-sized ones.
“ departure from "scale realism", is a compromise in the interest of the model's steering performance.
The deep rudder works in stronger winds and choppy water better…”

I have found a need to alter the rudder size too from the original.

I would at least double the area of the rudder as an angled rudder is not as effective as vertical one.
I have a 40 inch long Americas cup model yacht and have done that, and going any further does not help.

The problem lies in the heel angle of the yacht as anything more than 20 degrees you have almost completely lost all directional control. The rudder is angled at about 40 degrees and if you go beyond 20 degrees heel the rudder is acting (as on an aircraft) more like the elevator giving up down control. Turning to the right will have the rudder forcing the bow down.

You will have to sail the model as upright as possible adjusting or removing sail area to accomodate this.

Best of luck.
Roy

Excellent Roy explanation