So this is how the build has progressed over the last 10 days or so;
11)Rudder tube cut from brass stock tube (5/32" internal dia) and glued using superglue after roughing up metal surface - epoxy could be used, but if the hole is a snug fit, I have started using super glue, as it wicks nicely into the wood fibres and scratched metal surface. The motor was test fitted so I could see if the battery pack could still squeeze through the hatch - it was at this point I broke off one of the contacts so had to get another motor🙄!
12)Rudder made up from 0.5mm thick brass sheet soldered to 5/32" piano wire; I cut a tight slot in the brass, and cut a slot into the end of the rod, so there is a mechanical fixing between the rod and sheet before securing with solder. The steering arm is a standard nose-gear steering arm from Dubro, with a grub screw that locates into a filed indentation on the piano wire.
13) Close up of the rudder assembly fitted.
14,15 & 16)Time to completely fit and test all the radio gear before sheeting the hull sides; looking to check the 5-cell AA 2400mAh battery can be removed/inserted easily, glue in spruce blocks to mount the steering servo, a 10gram item, fit a replacement motor(RS260 I think, more than enough for this little boat), plug into a Spektrum AR410 RX and 20amp ESC and wiggle the transmitter sticks - all seemed to work well.
17, 18, 19) Once satisfied all was well, the radio/powertrain etc was removed and hull side sheeting commenced. The pinning and glueing was carried out over 3 evenings, using 3/32 balsa vertical grain sheet for the sides up to the bow, then 1/8 sheet strips to form the rounded stern, as this would require more material removal for a smooth curved shape. Note I tried to cut the pieces to reflect the height of the bulwarks according to the plan - its actually quite hard to get it exactly right on both sides, so some sanding will be required later. Note also, the original used thick (1mm I believe) card for the sides, a nice cheap option, but I prefer to use balsa as the cost on a boat this size is very low anyway. I also like balsa as it can be reinforced easily with thin ply (see next pics) or thin balsa glued with the grain at 90degrees to form a 'lite-ply' - this is how I planned to reinforce the bulwarks to get a much sturdier structure, probably a good idea if I am to let my grand-daughter loose on this boat some day in the future!😉
20) Hull given a rough sanding to achieve the basic hull shape.
21) Bulwark reinforcement strips from 1/32" ply strips to allow handling without fracturing the vertical grain balsa. Ply was cut with outer grain vertical at the stern to assist the curve - without thinking I did the same for the rest, but the straighter sections would probably have benefitted more from the outer grain being longitudinal. Still, it will be plenty strong, I think.

That's all for now, just have rubbing strakes to do and final sanding/filling and I'll have completed the basic hull.

rgds to all, Nick

I mentioned in the Vic Smeed Vivacity forum I would do a few smaller builds while chugging through the Vivacity project; the first of these I have started (while waiting on certain components/materials for Vivacity), based on Glynn Guest's Knocker White tugboat plan from his book 'Small Radio Control Boats'.
The Driving force behind choosing this particular design was the fact I had just filled my Backyard Model Boating Pond for the first time and sailed a couple of small free-running boats in it.
I had already made Arcady and Bredette many years ago when they were first issued as free plans in Model Boats, so Knocker White was the next project from the book with the necessary compact dimensions to sail happily on my pond, the first of (hopefully) several small such boat projects.
Here are the first stages of the build shown in the photos;
1) Paper template traced/assembled from the book - a little 'guestimation' was required as the plan was over two pages that didn't quite align...
2)Carcass pieces (deck, bottom, bulkheads, stem) marked out on 1/4" sheet
3)Carcass pieces cut out
4 & 5) carcass glued together, care taken to get as square as possible - note extra piece placed in stern to support rudder tube, making stern slightly deeper than original
6)Power train/RC components; Specktrum 410 RX, Ali Express 20A esc, RS 280 motor (was eventually replaced with an RS260 type when I clumsily broke off one of the contacts while trying to fit the battery), 100mm prop shaft/tube assembly with 25mm 3-blade prop.
7)Power train set up & tested on the bench to ensure everything worked
8)Prop tube skeg/support added
9)Prop tube epoxied in place, sandwiched between skeg support and lower skeg piece.
10)6mm ply motor mount glued into position after checking alignment.
More pics and comments to follow soon,

Best regards to all following this,

Nick