Tomorrow the video I uploaded to YouTube should be ready. It shows all the different colours that were needed to paint the stern and the back splash.

So, after I took many precautions and sprayed the red decanted color and waited 48 hours, it was time to take the final step and that is applying the clear coat.

After the two-day curing period of the red paint, I applied the final clear coat using Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic. I used the same method as with the color coat: a light mist coat first, followed by progressively wetter coats with drying time between them.

Sooo....
CLEAR ALSO WRINKLED.

Im glad I don't own a gun or I have shooted the damed thing.
Now I tried a different approach, I used this recently acquired wet sand papers from Amazone.

I wet sanded the surface starting with 800 grit, then moved to 1000, followed by 2000, and finally finished with 3000 grit.

Once I could see that the wrinkled finish was completely gone and the surface was nice and smooth again, I moved on to polishing.

For that I used my XMT Series polishing compounds, working backwards from #4 down to #1, gradually bringing the shine back to the surface. After that, I applied a final coat of Best of Show Wax to give it that last bit of depth and gloss.
😎

I would like to dedicate this post to the many extraordinary modelers on this forum (you know who you are) who take particular pleasure in one of the most intricate aspects of our hobby — restorations.

I always enjoy seeing your new projects and recent finds. No matter how poor the condition of the model when you acquire it, you somehow manage to bring it back to life — often better than it ever was.

So, here are my two penn’orth.
At present, I work part-time in retirement for Creative Displays, a Miami-based exhibition display company. We design and build custom show booths for a wide range of businesses to showcase their products at trade events.

In the photo, you’ll see a table filled with various scale models belonging to different yacht companies we work with. My role is within the Art and Graphics department, where I handle signage and graphic production — printing, laminating, and applying graphics to the many different substrates used throughout the stands.
You’ll also notice my own sloop displayed alongside several of our clients’ models.

And yes… that’s me about ten years ago.
One of the models shown had arrived to us nearly destroyed during shipping. Bringing it back to its original condition proved both challenging and deeply rewarding. It remains one of those restorations I look back on with a quiet sense of pride.
😎

VERTICAL ACCESS LATTER –
Mounted Aft of the Pilothouse for Roof and Equipment Access.

To create this ladder, the kit fortunately includes a soldering jig, which I followed precisely. However, during final fitting, I discovered that the overall geometry produced by the jig is not entirely accurate.

After reviewing and giving the ladder my final approval, I identified an issue that is not related to workmanship, but rather to the dimensions established by the supplied jig.

Also, in the first picture you will notice a bracket extending from the back of the pilothouse that supports and locates the ladder.

This bracket plays a critical role in maintaining correct alignment and spacing between the ladder and the pilothouse structure, and its position further highlights the dimensional discrepancy created by the kit jig.

On the real vessel, the cross brackets are positioned just above the fourth rung from the bottom. With the kit geometry as supplied, that alignment cannot be achieved correctly.

CORRECTIVE MODIFICATION
To address this kit-related dimensional issue, I added an extension to the bottom of the ladder.
Below are the steps I followed, which you may wish to replicate:
1. Cut away approximately half of the lower section of the ladder assembly.
2. Insert a coupling tube into the lower end of the ladder assembly, applying a small amount of CA glue only to the bottom of the tenons.
3. Once the coupling tube is secured, insert the extension piece.

This modification provides a longer and significantly stronger deck anchorage.
As shown in the final photograph, the extension is barely noticeable and results in a very secure attachment.

Important Note Regarding the Ladder Brackets
When trimming the ladder support brackets to their final length, ensure that they are long enough to be properly inserted into the pilothouse wall.
😎

Maybe I do a cup holder also. 😜
😎

LITTLE WHITE AND RED CHAIR

I’m almost finished completing all the loose deck and sundeck fittings.
One small detail that caught my attention on the real Juanita was a little white and red chair positioned in front of the main structure.
Naturally, I had to build one.

What I did not anticipate was that it would take an entire week—and several failed attempts consigned to the scrap bin—before I finally worked out the correct sequence for soldering such a tiny chair.

The process required the use of multiple custom balsa jigs to maintain alignment and consistency during soldering. At this scale, alignment, heat control, and the order of assembly are absolutely critical.

The slightest excess of solder or even minimal movement during heating becomes immediately apparent.

My first attempt at painting was done with a brush, but it left very noticeable brush marks that were unacceptable at this scale.
I ended up stripping the paint completely and refinishing the chairs using an airbrush.

For the red detailing, careful masking was required—and yes, I had to use my jeweller’s glasses to see what I was doing. The final outcome, however, was well worth the extra effort.

In many ways, it became a true shokunin experience — a lesson in patience, repetition, and craftsmanship, where improvement only comes through persistence and attention to the smallest details.

Below is the photo sequence showing how I successfully soldered a 3/4" high chair using 1/16" brass rod.
Hopefully, this sequence may help anyone attempting similar miniature brass fabrications.

😎

STERN TOWING MAST

After extensive research and reviewing the information available online, I concluded that Juanita is fitted with a stern towing light mast.

White light on top → the stern light, configured as an all-round or stern-facing white light depending on operational requirements.

Two yellow (amber) lights arranged vertically → towing lights in accordance with the Inland Navigation Rules, indicating a vessel engaged in towing or pushing operations.

The mast’s sole purpose is to elevate and properly separate the navigation and towing lights so they remain clearly visible and compliant with regulatory requirements.

This is how I scratch-built the mast.
All that remains is to reduce to scale and hand-paint the Virginia State flag visible in the reference photo.
😎

Mike, “perfect youngster” made my day!
Trust me, the joints don’t agree with that description anymore 😄
Thanks for the kind words.
😎

By the way, the two side winch heads at port and starboard must be installed with the larger slanted face oriented toward the bow.

I point this out because I installed them incorrectly the first time and had to remove and re-glue them.

SAFETY CHAIN STANCHIONS

There are four safety chain stanchions in total (see picture #2).
Their purpose is to support safety chains acting as temporary or semi-permanent guardrails along deck edges, walkways, and platforms.

From a construction standpoint, special attention must be given to how these stanchions are attached to the sundeck. The sundeck must be removable to allow access to the internal electronics, which means the stanchions are exposed to repeated handling stresses during removal and reinstallation.
A weak attachment method will almost certainly lead to bending, loosening, or complete failure over time.

To increase strength and stability, I added small rectangular base plates to the bottom of each stanchion. These
bases increase the bonding surface area and improve resistance to lateral loads.

Because the bases needed to be extremely small and consistent, I fabricated a simple wooden soldering jig to ensure uniform alignment and repeatability during assembly.

While this may not be the only solution, it provides sufficient mechanical strength and clean alignment, and I’m satisfied with the final result.
😎

SUNDECK MAIN RAILINGS

This section took me almost a week to complete.

One positive note is that the kit includes several laser-marked jigs, which are very helpful for soldering the railings. To make things even easier, I also made a custom balsa jig to help form the required corner curves.

After completing all the railings, I noticed that the railings located under the pilothouse access platform had angled bottom braces (see photo #9). Since these braces were visible in reference photos, I went ahead and added them.

Another correction I had to address was the positioning of the railing holes provided in the kit. Under the access platform, I had to drill one additional hole to allow the railings to be installed properly.

LESSONS LEARNED

a. Allow plenty of time for this section—complex railings are not a one-session job.
B. Take advantage of the laser-marked jigs, but don’t hesitate to make custom jigs when curves or angles get tricky.
C. Always compare the kit parts to reference photos; small details like angled braces can be easy to miss.
D. Test-fit the railings early to catch hole alignment issues before final soldering.
E. Be prepared to add or adjust holes where necessary for a proper fit.
😎