Thanks ToraDog, that cleared things up for me. I truly believe in KISS but sometimes I go astray😁 Len

Len,
A "V Tail" unit is a separate unit rather than a set of options on a transmitter. They were developed during Analog days for radios that did not have the mix capability, like many of the surface radios offered.
There are numerous options of the V tail mixers. Some have very sophisticated option built into them, like servo travel limits, servo speed, ect.
A wise gentleman once told me to stick with the KISS principle. It has taken me years to absorb the advise, but it still works.

Thanks Scott. My question was about the term "v tail mixer "UNIT" as shown in the post by tomarack in the first picture. My confusion is about the word UNIT as it makes me believe it is a separate unit and not a setting on the radio. LEN

Hi,
I use the wiring with V-Tail mixer according to figure 1 on my Lulonga quarterwheeler model.
Even though I have the option of mixing in the transmitter, this connection seemed simpler to me. In addition, the options and method of mixing in the transmitter did not suit me.
Tom

Hi Len1

A v-tail mixer is used on RC aircraft/gliders that have a v style tail rather than a conventional one. It allows me to have both servos attached to the tail move the same direction when I move my elevator stick up and down so in theory it would work with two esc's allowing fwd/bkd and differential steering too.

I get up down and yaw when flying

Here's a pic of one of my V-tail sailplanes for example

Regards
Scott

What is a V-tail mixer unit as shown in the first picture

Hi,
I am giving some examples here.

here (fig 1) you can control the model with only one stick too(e.g. put throttle to channel 3 , rudder to channel1(ailerons)
I really don't remember where I found this on the net
I finally managed to find a comment, probably from RC Groups
I found it interesting,but there were difficulties in placing the document on these pages.
Tom
Due to several people asking similar questions, some diagrams to help make things easy to understand.

image 2, having a BEC enabled ESC and a seperate battery pack,
you will notice here that the red wire in the tri-color servo lead falls short of the rx, this is to symbilize its removal from the plug. don't snip the wire carefully remove it and tape it back, that way you can still use it if you have to.

using a seperare battery on a bec esc can be used if your rx happens not to have BEC ability because its old, or you need to add a touch of ballast, why add lead when your ballast can be made to work for you.

Image 3, full BEC system one esc one motor.
BEC means Battery Eliminating Circuit, this means that the main battery that feeds your Electronic speed controller, (ESC), also feeds power to the rx though some in-built step-down regulator circuit. again this diagram depicts one propeller, this is usually used where space is an issue, such as in a converted lindberg trawler or other small model. Another issue is weight, such as racing boats where the additional weight of an rx pack may cost a second or two a lap because your boat is hauling a few more ounces than it needs to.

Image 4 Full BEC system with twin motors, one esc.
one esc and two motors, wired in parrallel, with a fuse off each motor. not everyone has multi channel boats, some people still have 2 channel AM systems but may want to run more than one motor in their boats, this is the easist way to do it. wiring in parrallel means that should one engine stop working because of binding and so blow the fuse, (fishing line wrapped around the propeller is a usual cause), the iother motor should still be able to bring the boat home, though the operator will probably suffer some handling issues. using series wired, where the electricity flows through one motor then through the other would have just one fuse, one stalled motor would pop that sole fuse and so leave the boat in need of rescue.

Image 5, twin escs with bec esc's and rx battery.
This sort of layout is often found where the transmitter has on-board mixing, and usually found on larger models where space isnt an issue, such as 1/35th scale tugs and bigger boats, up to something like a 1/96th scale tico or burke type warship. the single battery may be because you want the physical space inside for fitting of working features, gas powered bb guns for the RC combat people, or things like working sirens, or your battery may be quite large to start with anyway.

Image 6 is identical in laypout except it has two batteries in parrallel to double the run time or the main battery supply is also being used for lights etc

As with any BEC equipped ESC, if you are using a seperate battery pack remove the red wire to prevent damage to reciever

image 7, mechanical esc, one motor
yes mechanical type speed controllers, or relay type like those by Electronize may not have a BEC system, so need to have a seperate battery supply for the RX to work,
image 1, twin esc's with a mixer
if you have no on board mixing on your radio and wish to make your twin screw boat perform like its real counterpart, you can do this by adding a V-tail mixer, this device normally found on aircraft links the two esc's, in this case BEC type such as Proboat tornado 50 or Viper15's with their bec wire removed from the servo plug because you are using a seperate power source.
to do this, you are best having more than 4 channels on your radio set, both tx and rx, a typical set suitable for this is the Futaba 6EXA or Hitec Optic 6, or a Skysport 4, though you may have other preferences.

Fusing
You may notice on the diagrams, there are more than 1 fuse, the one on the motor side of the esc protects the electronics within the esc, so should your motor start to over-amp the esc, it will fail before the esc gets damaged. however should your esc develop a fault, the fuse between the esc and battery should pop, protecting the battery, especially useful if lithium polymer type batteries are your power source

Stephen, if you post pictures of the setup, we can hopefully explain how to rectify any problems.
Cheers Colin.

Stephan,
From what you describe,it sounds like you have two power sources to your receiver. Not a good set up. Eliminate one of the sources to the receiver and you should be fine. I would eliminate the separate battery (4.5 v) to the receiver.
As an aside, if the accessories are switched thru the receiver, I would connect the grounds of the two batteries as well.

in a boat I have there is a wiring issue
now it has 2 12v batteries one to each speed controller the two receiver wires from the esc are linked to one position on the receiver the auxiliaries are connected to another 12v battery and the power for the receiver is from a 4.2 battery so thats four batteries?
in the receiver I have battery rudder esc and auxiliaries seems a odd way to doing it any ideas any one