A further improvement using a timer to switch the element on and off as I mentioned it my last post. Experimenting with times to get the balance right. This timer is- on 8 secs off 5. Now have it on 10 secs, off 5 which is better. Battery drops .25v when on, but recovers mostly when off.

JB

Hi One & All
Thank you Doug for the links, I am using one from Component shop to power the LED's on one of my boats.
The item in the photo's is a unit that works on 3.7 - 12 volts, in photo 2 are my attempts to bypass the jack plug and the on/off switch, some how I have burnt out a few,
Product Introduction:
1.Diameter:20mm
2.Operating Voltage:3.7-12V
3.Frequency:113+/-3KHz
4.Quiescent Capacitor:3000+/-15%PF
5.Rated Voltage:70V (max)
6.Rated Power:2.5W (normal use 1.5W)
if any one can see just were I have gone wrong, could you please point me in the right direction.
Thank you
Fred

Doug,

Sorry for interrupting, I'm sure the component you referenced is a great product.

But ...
Your comment "But if you want good solid reliable British engineering" made me chuckle.

I have been an auto enthusiast for many years, and this quote pretty much reflects my gut reaction to British electronics ... "Lucas - earned a reputation as the “Prince of Darkness” in not only Jaguars but in all manner of vehicles produced in Great Britain. Rovers, MG’s, Triumphs… anything that had Lucas in them.. Austin’s you name it if it had Lucas Electrics in it.. you would be most fortunate if the switch you flicked on - actually worked.."

I am aware that times change, and you were making reference to entirely different components. It just struck me as funny, and I thought I'd share my reaction.

Now, "Back to regular programming".

Dave B

PS I very much appreciate the info shared here. I appreciate the experience and expertise of the members on this site, and have learned a lot!

Fred,
Here's a couple of links to some of the cheaper (Asian) alternative BECs.
and what's on Ebay UK. The Hobbywing job for 2,81 looks good.
Other members will no doubt also have their favourites and Go-To's.
Happy hunting🤞
Cheers, Doug😎

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=5V+BEC

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?campid=5338192028&kw=5V%20BEC&mkcid=1&mkrid=71

Hi Fred,
Thanks for the info👍
So, all you need is a simple 5V regulator; Input 7.4V upwards, Output 5.0V.
Minimum current capability 500mA.
Available all over the Weird Wobbly Web for p-nuts.
Many cheap Ch... options available.
But if you want good solid reliable British engineering this one from Action Electronics, sold through Component Shop. See link below.
Simple to make (I just use an L7805 regulator, same 3 legged form as the L7806 in pdf description, but 5V output) but if your not too happy with a soldering iron ...🤔
This little job for 9 quid provides 5V at up to 1A (1000mA).
Out of stock at the moment so they've gotta cook up a new batch😉
Many similar items from other suppliers around.
Just look for Voltage Regulator or BEC. (Battery Eliminator Circuit).
The ESC you are using may already have a BEC built in. Check the ESC specs.
Cheers, Doug😎

https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p19-bec-1a-battery-eliminator-2264.html.html

Hi Doug
I have taken this from the details that are on eBay, I hope that it is of some help.
Circuit board product voltage: DV 5V
Current: 300mA
Power: 2W
Frequency 108KHz, fixed frequency single-chip microcomputer
Driver board size: 35*20*17mm (L*W*H) (there will be slight errors)
Strong versatility, large amount of fog, stable performance, the chip has an automatic timing shutdown function (4 hours of continuous work will automatically shut down protection, if you need to turn on again, press the power on again). 5V USB power supply mode, can be powered by MICRO charging cable.
Atomizing film parameters:
The net diameter of the atomized steel sheet is 16mm, the outer diameter of the silicone ring is 20mm, and the wire length is 8cm.
Product voltage DV 5V, current 300mA, power 2W, frequency 108KHz, hole number 740, hole diameter 5um
The microporous atomized sheet produced by us is coated with a special glaze protective layer on the surface of the ceramic sheet, which is resistant to acid and alkali and prevents the silver layer from being corroded and oxidized by the liquid.

Hi Fred,
What is the normal operating voltage and current consumption of the humidifier?
Cheers, Doug😎

Hi All,
When trying to open/run Fred's Media File (video) you may get the Error message shown in attached pic.🤔
Reason: The file is in .AVI format which our website doesn't seem to like!
Solution:-
Hit the 'Download' button (Tiny White arrow at top left of the media window) and run the file from your device drive; e.g. using Media Player on a Windows device.
Cheers, Doug😎

Hi One & All
If I may put my two penne's worth in, I have been using the tank smoke units in my boats for the last few years, the one in item 26 is the old style of smoke unit, the new ones are more compact, with care the fan unit can be removed and placed some were different in the boat, so far I have stayed away from the "E" cig this is only due to my lack of knowledge, I have tried to go down the route of the water Mini Ultrasonic Mist Maker Fogger Water Air Humidifier, but so far I must have burnt out some 10 control boards, I have tried the 5v doughnut Ultrasonic Mist Maker, this has work but take up a lot of room in the boat.
If any of you electronic wizards can work out how to get these humidifiers to work on say 7.4v could you please put up a list of parts and some form of drawing.
Fred

Hi Lew, looks like he might have picked a different one (that one uses a diaphragm air pump like most of my experiments) . I see the one you were talking about with the fan on the side, but the same thing applies (I've done that 3 yrs ago as you can see in the previous pic) The latest experiment also uses a diaphragm air pump, and we have found them to be better than a bulky fan, as they can be fitted anywhere in the boat.

The one you've shown could be a reasonable unit if the element was replaceable. The problem with the HengLong piston versions was that the element (wire wound in some, tiny resistor in others, was ) they were not easy to repair. They were cheap but worked on low voltage, (from memory about 7V max) which made them easy to burn out if you made a mistake. I bought 4 when they were cheap from Ali Exp, but I don't think any are still working.

I found the vape coils were much more robust (Graham 93 and Mike T use them) and easy to replace,- also have various wattages available. The latest experiment cost me around NZ $25, - the tank being the most expensive item, (they didn't have a smaller one in stock) but any small metal or aluminium tank would have done. Probably took me about 1 hr to make.

I'm going to see if I can find a constant on/off timer to pulse the element and test the battery/smoker run times.

JB