The Krick system use to come assembled, but now the user most assemble it. Not too difficult. Here are the basic assembly instructions, in German( no English version) but with good pictures. These are NOT the complete instructions which include parts diagrams and labels. It will give a descent idea of how the unit works.

The Krick system use two forms of clutch. The servo, in one direction engages the motor with the drum using two drive dogs that connect to the slip clutch at the opposite end of the drum. This causes the slip clutch to rotate the drum. At the same time, the servo depresses the micro switch to power the motor. This is all during during take up of the anchor. On the opposite end of the winch drum from the motor is the slip clutch which consists of three rubber buttons that press upon the winch drum. During take up the slip clutch, engaged with the drum, raises the anchor. If and when the anchor houses or becomes bottom stuck, the clutch slips and the gear motor and drive are protected.
I will try to take some pictures this PM and post them. It is a nice system, expensive, but it works well.
On my ARS, I lead the chain from the winch drum, up onto deck, over the "real" anchor winch and then down thru the hawse pipe. The system is still able to deploy and retrieve, most of the time.😂

@lew - Regarding that video of the Krick system. I see it uses a servo to operate a "Clutch" to release the drum. Then engaging the clutch hauls it up. What I can't see is if the clutch itself has some kind of slip-disk system. But I generally have an idea to start off, and perhaps looking at a RC Tank drive will also give me some ideas. These also use two friction disks to engage the tracks either together or one at a time. I can see the Dremel cutting disks being hitched as clutches on this design.

@Len1 I agree. Snags can be very dicey. Perhaps clearing a section of the pond might help and call it the "Safe zone."
The nature of the bottom is crucial to ensure the anchor can "hold" as well as be hauled up. Fine balance needed there too.
But generally you don't anchor in water deeper than knee depth, or say 30 to 40", which makes the concern almost redundant, provided the winch does not break the chain. Why I want a 1m drop is to position the anchors at an angle from the ship, thereby forming a triangle between the two anchors and the hull's centre line.
Our pond is generally clay at the bottom, so a fake bottom will have to be created to ensure the anchor can "attach" to it. Something like fish tank stones or cat litter might work (not tried). It will be Hall Anchors. Doubt if a Danforth or Admiralty anchor will "bite the dust" so to speak. I've seen people using chicken wire on a steel square frame but that is risky as well.
The practice in our club is to walk in. put a lead sinker on the bottom and hook the anchor manually (It does help to keep the boat off the dam wall, but does look utterly stupid).

Lew and Toradog expressed my concerns about the anchors getting caught up in underwater snags. Our boating pond is just loaded with underwater anchor snags so the drop depth would have to be limited so the anchors do not hit bottom but there is also a lot of floating weeds and such so I am not sure if the anchors could be deployed at all.
Len

The clutch or autostop is crucial. On my first build I used a 360 servo. It kept running until I stopped it. When you forget or stop it too late the chain breaks and gone is the anchor. I also tried a sail winch but the travel is too short and to get 1m travel required a fairly large drum. But that obviously also did not have the quick release function.
Then the clutch must also be strong enough to lift the anchor and chain without breaking it at the hull. Fine balance needed here.

Lew, Your point about underwater snags is VERY valid. I try to anchor in sandy or semi-sandy bottom only. Wading out to free my anchor flashed an image of Gulliver leading the Lilliput's ships away.😊

OK, the video (#2) I referenced had an auto stop. When too much force was exerted on the line or when the anchor was seated in the hull the winch would sense it and stop. This guy thought of everything.

I thought about an anchor winch for my future FB rebuild, but we have a lot of under water branches and growth to consider.

Lew
Florida ⛱️, USA

Not quite sure what Lew is referring to as an auto stop on the Krick winch. What is does have is a clutch that will slip if too much drag is put upon it, such as when an anchor fetches up upon housing. This can be adjusted with a set screw.
Otherwise it will gravity drop and retrieve.

Here is a video of the Krick anchor winder. It dozen appear to have an auto stop.
Lew
Florida ⛱️, USA

1/48 Diver class ARS at anchor using the Krick system.

Thanks Lew
That's exactly what I'm looking at. Let's hope its available in 1:48 scale. Update It seems they are now only selling their website domain.

Yes, there is, rather, are.
Search this site as well as modelmayhem.co.uk and you will find various homemade, some commercially available, anchor winches.
As well, there is a commercially available unit from Krick, that I have used very successfully. I bought mine thru Cornwall Models. It is available as a single or twin drum unit. Be advised that the twin drum operates both drums at the same time.
I hope this helps.

You might try the link🤓 below. I originally found this when searching for the lengthened Dusseldorf FLB2.

Lew
Florida 😎, USA

https://www.dahmen.de/cat9165.html