Hi Gary. I use the Medium CA for quick general work and the Extra ThickCA to have a bit of time to move a part and then dab a bit of Insta-Set on the joint when the plank location is just where you want it. The Medium is great as well, but will set pretty fast on it’s own. I avoid the Thin CA as it runs like water and takes patience to get the feel for it. I don’t feel that it’s right for any kind of planking unless you want to run a bead down a bulkhead behind the planking where you won’t see it to further reinforce what you’ve already done.

It NEVER hurts to do some test strips on scrap whenever possible to get a feel for it.
I always keep a bottle of Medium and Extra Thick handy with the Insta-Set close at hand.

A big thank you for all the helpful posts I received, and very much appreciated. Thinking back and checking out my open launch and avatar, I realised I didn't actually use planks I used sheet veneer, and I think I used evostik. In checking out evostik on amazon I was some what amused to find on the advertising label evostik sticks like sh*t. (As in to the preverbal blanket?) I also managed to find numerous Bob Smith Industries BSI CA glue, numerous sorts which is a little confusing when you are getting on a bit. So please could I have a little more help on that one. Regards, Gary.

Gary

Recently my Association has been conducting tests on the glue shown in the link shown below. It has proven to be surprisingly good for the cost and whilst I cannot give it my full seal of approval
it is performing well. It is supposed to glue anything to anything and so far it has successfully glued plastic glasses frames leather straps on sandals as well as plastics and wood. Its EBay description is "3PCS Powerful Solder Multi-Material Repair Adhesive Welding High-Strength Oily" https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/335063293670?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D265705%26meid%3D519d7a6c652843a9abd0c2ec3e910c1e%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D145716730660%26itm%3D335063293670%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4429486%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithBBEV2bAndUBSourceDemotionWithUltimatelyBoughtOfCoviewV1%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p4429486.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A335063293670519d7a6c652843a9abd0c2ec3e910c1e%7Cenc%3AAQAJAAABMKAGZatwWrSFioKhyF05YYps7xtgOI2Vu0BqB4BERv%252FNTfrUNkP50TZAJfREiGj7R%252BA2x2E5zTqSs43jfR6uCcmt8%252B%252BTUdobg9SfOq%252BIqjUBHx7ub8cMgRuvW8wvYwSVezdLI2c8%252Fy5MaOuaHFrywejM2bZF5dNZpN%252FAc4kDoiqpE0W1jEzxKZfL7rSiwKBYWVXsdqxLXU7AxbgFTk6ons5f%252BKa5LopcBX0%252FtBGM2R1SLvXZzGuCVpT%252F7Ps5mJe8Di08TtIgYNOzqMzz%252FQUDnOdqulUKmvErTyjSNUAcR7z5K9ZeahpHkvQ7qeeQa4%252BQdNOFLHb9VlirfC5TMxChclLK7pVTBXRnLQQm%252FM%252Fyxe8cfkJiXVX0CSEen8nHoviov5%252BkNJLT6nxP--SP%252FGDxO8Q%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A4429486&itmmeta=01HZG1FR5EG1QW07JQDRYQPWAA

As jumpugly has suggested it is a good idea to apply the CA accelerator to the joint with a applicator instead of spraying because you get localized control and prevent spraying the accelerator all over and may premature setting up of the next joint next to the existing one. Also the fumes are nasty to breath and smell. I use pointed steel rod or tooth pick to apply the accelerator. Len

I am with Greg too. Could never have planked anything without CA and a bit of accelerator. However, I prefer to dab accelerator on specific points of the build with a super cheap brush instead of a wide spray. You’ll go through a bunch of crappy brushes, but the control is worth it.

I can only speak for myself, but I would definitely use a good medium set (10 - 15 sec.)
CA glue, and probably use a quick squirt of Accelerator on the fibreglass side.
If you are on the North American side of the world, I recommend Bob Smith Industries(BSI)
Brand.
I have been using and selling it for 20 years.

I admit I never heard of that product. Did it live up to it's name?

Glueing things to fiberglass can be a difficult thing. Let me make offer a few suggestions.

Try fiberglass resin, it can be thickened with a number of things if you like, such as fine sawdust.

Construction adhesive, that generally comes in caulking gun type tube, but is very thick.

Epoxy putty, the brands I know are JB Weld and PC7 I know these work because I have used them. They also quite thick and messy to use.

I also go along with the roughing up the hull surface, I have used a product called "stick like shit" it's made by Evo-Stik, you can get in the likes of B&Q - Scerwfix and others.
I have used it to fix the wood deck frame of the Lady "T"
Fred

Hi Gary: I'm with Lew on the rough up the current surface a bit. I would also clean it with a common dish detergent and water.
I then trial fit each plank and use a thick CA glue (thick CA’s set a bit slower) to seat each plank. Then seal with a good spar varnish.
Keep us in the loop on this one! It sounds like a fun challenge!

There are basically two types of fiberglass resins, polyester and epoxy. They polyester usually has a waxy finish that has problems with cementing objects to. If it is polyester you might need to use a solvent to clean off the waxy feel and perhaps even rough up the surface for better adhesion. Surface preparation is going to be important here. As there is always a possibility of getting water in the hull use a waterproof adhesive and seal the wood. Like different brands of cars, everyone has their favorite adhesive, cement, or epoxy so you will probably get a lot of opinions.
Lew
Florida 😎, USA❤️

Hi Gary, I can tell you what I used and what I saw static modelers use.
This doesn't mean it's the best choice.
For the first planking (therefore to glue the hull strips to the frames) I have always used common putty-type glues (Bostik, Pattex, etc. etc.).
Since I'm not sure I've translated the term well, I'll describe them briefly and attach a photo.
They are glues that must be used in this way: both surfaces to be glued are sprinkled with mastic and left to dry for approximately 25/30 minutes. Then press the two surfaces firmly and hold for at least a minute.
It is not a quick-setting glue, it then takes 24 hours for complete bonding. Once the two surfaces have been pressed, it is no longer possible to reposition them.
I use this glue because it is cheap and because it allows me to glue without nails and locking pliers (I can only do this because the strips are already curved and no longer tend to detach, otherwise a stop is needed).
Before I also used it for the second planking. Not anymore.
I have seen many static naval modelers use normal and economical vinyl glues (there are also those that set quickly but give you time to reposition).
I know there are many other better and more expensive products (even two-component ones) but I have not had experience with them.

I used rubber contact cement for most of mine and a few I used a "flexible" cyanoacrylate.