Well done Tomarack.
Now your advice can be read by anyone who does the research.
This does not mean that you cannot ask or discuss everything on the forum if you like. You can always integrate your article with additional information (text or images).
If you want to quickly point your article to a forumer you can copy the link and paste it at the end of the message.

Hi Alessandro,
I did it...see> how to >various electrical connection diagrams for two motors <
I had problems with transferring images, basically, my entire post is there, it is possible to join it and add your comments and other useful diagrams... I put the wiring for my RC Lulonga quarterwheeler too. I am sorry, I don't have a better graphic design at the moment.
Tom

Duncan the potentiometer suggestion is really interesting and useful, I hope I remember it when I need it.

Congratulations for your message Tomarrack.
I completely agree with Roy, it is a post full of clear and useful information.
I love this type of messages.
As I have said several times, the impossibility of performing a text search in the contents (you can only do it for the titles) risks making this information fall into oblivion and it is a shame.
It is true that the social, kind and altruistic nature of many members of this forum leads them to repeat answers several times without problems (as Tomarrack did on this occasion). This is very pleasant and comforting. It is, however, useful to preserve this information and make it more easily usable.
In this sense, in my opinion, the administrator Fireboat has found a very intelligent and effective solution: he created the "How-To Articles" section. There are topics of common interest. Unfortunately, messages that have nothing to do with the topic have also ended up there by mistake.
You could insert this message of yours in that Section, Tomarack with a title that unequivocally recalls the topic: "various electrical connection diagrams for two motors with mixer", just to give an example. Maybe integrating it with other diagrams and suggestions that you have provided in the past.

Anyway, thanks also to Duncan who raised a very interesting and useful problem for everyone.

Thanks Tomarak, excellent post full of information. When the Vee tail mixer is used as in boats there is often just a single wire which goes to the rx. rudder socket onto the signal socket, the innermost connection. I have a Y switch extension wire here as boats in the main like to activate the rudder.

I never cut red wires or pull out the connection on esc's, cheaper all round to use an extension lead with the red wire cut.

Thanks again I am printing off the written sheets.
Roy

Hi Tom, Thank you for your informative information. I hadn't seen it before, so I found it useful.
Having now done some tests, I found that the two 5 pole brushed motors weren't starting simultaneously, so this would potentially cause the boat not to start off in a straight line! It was suggested by a member at my club that I should use one of the 'pots' on my Flysky i6 instead of having it on the joystick. This proved to be far more successful at starting the motors together.
So I now have the motors on channel 4 (left hand pot) and the rudder on the right hand stick. The winch when in sailing mode, is on the left hand stick.

Not sure why the 'pot' dial is better but it certainly worked!
Cheers Duncan 😊

HI,
I think I've already posted this here, but it never hurts to repeat it. On my Lulonga quarter-wheeler model, I use the connection according to Figure 7 with the difference that instead of a separate battery I use the BEC from the ESC. The motors are controlled on the receiver Th 3 channel and Ail 1 . channel via the V-tail mixer. So I can control the model with a single stick ( Th ). I have the rudder connected to channel 4 as usual. Of course, you can control the boat with just the rudder, but in my case, this is only of little effectiveness.
This connection with an external V-tail mixer seemed the easiest to me, but I was unable to program this connection option appropriately.
Basically, by moving the Th stick (channel 3) forward and backward, we control the power of both engines. By moving the same stick left or right, we control the direction of their rotation—it's similar to the ailerons on an aeroplane.
It's interesting - if I want to turn the model on the spot, I don't "give gas", I just tilt the stick left or right. At that moment (in my case) one wheel turns forward and the other one turns back (and vice versa) so the model stops and just turns.
greetings!!
Tom K

The Fleet Plainsman a 40 Mhtz RC set I bought direct from the supplier down in Fleet Hampshire. On the bottom of the set it is marked as 35Mhtz but was sold with 40Mhtz crystals.
Hence I have bought up a couple of very cheap 35Mhtz sets and used them with 40 Mhtz crystals and they have all the range you would want. One of them had a double something or other rx. There were no crystals of that sort to be had so it was discarded. I bought a dozen 5 ch 35Mhtz rx's for a few pounds when 2.4 Ghtz was available and now have more rx's than model boats.

Roy

Hi Duncan first of all pleased you got it all to work.
My experience with mixers is a bit limited as I built the first one from a kit and it was not a good design. The second one was on a Fleet Plainsman RC set with a mixer in the TX. This was a while ago and the rudder movement always had the motors going.

I have 2 sets of mixers that plug into the rx. now. I have only worked out how to wire them up but not had them working. I will do this and see if I get the same result of the rudder lever working in azimuth and not operating the motors.

I keep on learning which keeps me sane in this curious world we now inhabit!

Roy

Hi Doug,
Thank you for your very informative instructions on how to arrange my motors and fit the left and right handed props. That's brilliant!
Cheers
Duncan