Well done Tomarack.
Now your advice can be read by anyone who does the research.
This does not mean that you cannot ask or discuss everything on the forum if you like. You can always integrate your article with additional information (text or images).
If you want to quickly point your article to a forumer you can copy the link and paste it at the end of the message.

Hi Alessandro,
I did it...see> how to >various electrical connection diagrams for two motors <
I had problems with transferring images, basically, my entire post is there, it is possible to join it and add your comments and other useful diagrams... I put the wiring for my RC Lulonga quarterwheeler too. I am sorry, I don't have a better graphic design at the moment.
Tom

Duncan the potentiometer suggestion is really interesting and useful, I hope I remember it when I need it.

Congratulations for your message Tomarrack.
I completely agree with Roy, it is a post full of clear and useful information.
I love this type of messages.
As I have said several times, the impossibility of performing a text search in the contents (you can only do it for the titles) risks making this information fall into oblivion and it is a shame.
It is true that the social, kind and altruistic nature of many members of this forum leads them to repeat answers several times without problems (as Tomarrack did on this occasion). This is very pleasant and comforting. It is, however, useful to preserve this information and make it more easily usable.
In this sense, in my opinion, the administrator Fireboat has found a very intelligent and effective solution: he created the "How-To Articles" section. There are topics of common interest. Unfortunately, messages that have nothing to do with the topic have also ended up there by mistake.
You could insert this message of yours in that Section, Tomarack with a title that unequivocally recalls the topic: "various electrical connection diagrams for two motors with mixer", just to give an example. Maybe integrating it with other diagrams and suggestions that you have provided in the past.

Anyway, thanks also to Duncan who raised a very interesting and useful problem for everyone.

Thanks Tomarak, excellent post full of information. When the Vee tail mixer is used as in boats there is often just a single wire which goes to the rx. rudder socket onto the signal socket, the innermost connection. I have a Y switch extension wire here as boats in the main like to activate the rudder.

I never cut red wires or pull out the connection on esc's, cheaper all round to use an extension lead with the red wire cut.

Thanks again I am printing off the written sheets.
Roy

Hi Tom, Thank you for your informative information. I hadn't seen it before, so I found it useful.
Having now done some tests, I found that the two 5 pole brushed motors weren't starting simultaneously, so this would potentially cause the boat not to start off in a straight line! It was suggested by a member at my club that I should use one of the 'pots' on my Flysky i6 instead of having it on the joystick. This proved to be far more successful at starting the motors together.
So I now have the motors on channel 4 (left hand pot) and the rudder on the right hand stick. The winch when in sailing mode, is on the left hand stick.

Not sure why the 'pot' dial is better but it certainly worked!
Cheers Duncan 😊

HI,
I think I've already posted this here, but it never hurts to repeat it. On my Lulonga quarter-wheeler model, I use the connection according to Figure 7 with the difference that instead of a separate battery I use the BEC from the ESC. The motors are controlled on the receiver Th 3 channel and Ail 1 . channel via the V-tail mixer. So I can control the model with a single stick ( Th ). I have the rudder connected to channel 4 as usual. Of course, you can control the boat with just the rudder, but in my case, this is only of little effectiveness.
This connection with an external V-tail mixer seemed the easiest to me, but I was unable to program this connection option appropriately.
Basically, by moving the Th stick (channel 3) forward and backward, we control the power of both engines. By moving the same stick left or right, we control the direction of their rotation—it's similar to the ailerons on an aeroplane.
It's interesting - if I want to turn the model on the spot, I don't "give gas", I just tilt the stick left or right. At that moment (in my case) one wheel turns forward and the other one turns back (and vice versa) so the model stops and just turns.
greetings!!
Tom K

The Fleet Plainsman a 40 Mhtz RC set I bought direct from the supplier down in Fleet Hampshire. On the bottom of the set it is marked as 35Mhtz but was sold with 40Mhtz crystals.
Hence I have bought up a couple of very cheap 35Mhtz sets and used them with 40 Mhtz crystals and they have all the range you would want. One of them had a double something or other rx. There were no crystals of that sort to be had so it was discarded. I bought a dozen 5 ch 35Mhtz rx's for a few pounds when 2.4 Ghtz was available and now have more rx's than model boats.

Roy

Hi Duncan first of all pleased you got it all to work.
My experience with mixers is a bit limited as I built the first one from a kit and it was not a good design. The second one was on a Fleet Plainsman RC set with a mixer in the TX. This was a while ago and the rudder movement always had the motors going.

I have 2 sets of mixers that plug into the rx. now. I have only worked out how to wire them up but not had them working. I will do this and see if I get the same result of the rudder lever working in azimuth and not operating the motors.

I keep on learning which keeps me sane in this curious world we now inhabit!

Roy

Hi Doug,
Thank you for your very informative instructions on how to arrange my motors and fit the left and right handed props. That's brilliant!
Cheers
Duncan

Hi Roy, I thought you were going to just fit a switch on each of the +ve leads to each of the motors. To take it a step further you could then have a linkage on another channel to push the switch back on if you end up with no wind! What do you think?

Hi Duncan, I think I have worked out how to disconnect the esc's from operating when sailing when the rudder is needed. I have a single wire from the mixer which plugs into the rudder socket signal i/p in the rx. If this is switched off when the sail winch is operated then the rudder moves without the props assisting.

I have a Tx. with a switch originally for the under carriage on an aircraft to determine sailing or motoring and I will use this. I use 35Mhtz radio but with a 40 Mhtz crystal plugged in. All legal as virtually all 40Mhtz equipment started out as 35 Mhtz.

I have a unit (not commercial) which can switch a bistable at the extreme ends of the Tx. lever travel. It is complex and uses old 74xx chips, not now available.

Might be an idea for a circuit developer? But as multi-channel RC is so cheap now not much of a market for it.

Your mixer has to plug into the rudder socket on the rx. If this can be interrupted then that would work.

Anyone got any other options on this?

Duncan I read your last post after sending this one, looks like the mixer designer was very clever in his design!
regards
Roy

Hi Doug flags, Took me 5 minutes to get your message in the flags. Bravo Zulu, Well done! a better one than the question of the day!
Roy

Yes indeed BRAVO ZULU Duncan👍
'Well done that man'.

Ref: "Solved apart from which way do I put the anti clockwise rotating motor and the clockwise rotating motor into the boat and which motor has the left or right handed propeller."
The anticlockwise running motor and LH prop goes on the starboard side, RHS.
Thus the clockwise running motor and the RH prop goes on the port side, LHS.
As seen from the stern.
This arrangement has two benefits.
1 Contra-rotating props cancel out the torque effect of the rotating mass of a single prop, shaft and motor, which can cause a single shaft boat, or a twin shaft vessel with both props rotating the same way, to list dramatically at speed.
2. With the port prop rotating clockwise and the starboard prop anticlockwise they 'shovel' more water over the rudder increasing it's efficiency due to the increased and faster water flow.
A tip I received from a retired Royal Navy Captain, who I met on my first outing with my 1/72 H class destroyer on the Ostpark Lake Munich in 1987.
Since then I arrange all my twin, triple and quad screw models like that. It works😉 My 1.3m (~4ft 3") 1/72 scale destroyer is much more manoeuvrable, smaller turning circle and less likely to give me a heart attack on fast turns due to heart stopping listing😮🙈
As a naval COMMS engineer for nearly 40 years I worked on several classes of naval ships and subs, and they all used this arrangement for multi-screw vessels.
I always asked the Chief Engineer😁
Cheers, Doug😎

Good Oh! Duncan Bravo Zulu to you. Those nast little un polarized servo plugs can bite you. This is why Futaba polarized their servo leads. One has to be very careful these days. I have had radio battery packs that were, from the factory, inverted. That was a head scratcher.
And No, Canada is not stupid enough to adopt the USA. Who would with PumpkinHead and his syncopates running around?
I am hoping that Maine secedes and joins Canada.
😀😀😀😀

I found that if you only move the right tx stick left and right (no up or down) it only activates the rudder. The other day when I connected up incorrectly, when I turned the rudder it also increased the power to the appropriate motor. I think originally you were going to place a switch under
one of the deck boxes to cut power to the motors when only using it in sailing mode. Hope this helps. Cheers D😀

Hi Duncan as far as Bruma goes and her RC bits I was also trying to work out how to use sail only. As when you use the rudder it will also bring in a differential control of the motors.

You can't disconnect the esc as the BEC supplies the power to the rx. I seem to remember I did come up with something but I should have written it down. So having to start again.
Roy

Hi Rod a certain Mr. Trump seems to have united Canada, so he is not all mouth and trousers.

I wonder if your Premier might make a counter offer to adopt the USA as the current valuation has gone down over the last few weeks!

Roy

Wonderful tech discussion will assist me greatly in an upcoming Springer tug.
Now off to vote in our federal election.

Hi Duncan, I'm glad you found the solution yourself.
I confirm that your case was interesting and useful, certainly for me, even if I didn't understand very well what the problem was.

I forgot to add the W-Tail instructions to my last post saying I had a solution! See the earlier posting please!

Solved apart from which way do I put the anti clockwise rotating motor and the clockwise rotating motor into the boat and which motor has the left or right handed propeller.
You can see from the video it all works now! Motor speed is up and down on the right transmitter stick and the winch is up and down on the left stick. Rudder is left and right also on the right hand stick.
This setup is to go into my motor cruiser Mantua Bruma. My mistake was not reversing the plug from the ESC to the Motor2 outlet from the W-tail which is the other way on Motor1! They had reversed the wiring on the W-Tail and the wire colours on the ESC are different - so not so obvious!
Thanks for all your input and help.
Hope you find it useful reference if your want to do something similar - especially for Roy who has the same kit to build!😊
Apologies it is coming back invalid file type when trying to upload the short MP4 video file. Any suggestions?

Hi Duncan I have similar esc's and the tiny switches on the pcb are for bringing in braking for cars etc. I assume both esc on/off switches are on?
Can you trace a path for the +ve i/p to the non-working motor esc?

If it was directly into the rx then the rx would supply the +ve line to the esc.

Have you checked that the esc's and motors can be swapped over in the mixer o/ps?
I am puzzled why there is a 3rd. motor o/p socket from the mixer.

Failing that I would go back to square 1 and check that each esc works direct from the rx.
On the mixers that I have there is no o/p for a rudder servo just a single wire i.e. not a servo socket, which goes to the signal pin on what would be the rudder servo socket in the rx.

It suggests that as the mixer has a rudder o/p socket that there must be an integral connection in the mixer. As most of these originate from VEE tail, mixers for aircraft that is a puzzle as a VEE tail on an aircraft does not have a rudder, by definition.

As far as cutting the red lead for a second esc I do not do this, instead I insert an extension lead with the red wire cut, saves expensive mistakes.

Hope this helps but am intrigued as to what the answer is.
Roy

I agree Willem👍(verschiedene Einstellungen an den Mäuseklavier!)

Duncan,
Carefully recheck the switch settings on the ESCs with the manual.
Post a close up photo of the two ESCs side by side so we can see the settings.
Can you please tell us the Manufacturers and type/model numbers of the ESCs and the Mixer.
That will help us to research what the switches do and what might be going wrong😉
Cheers, Doug😎

Hi,
did you have a look at the smallswitches on the ESC's? It looks if they have a different position.

Hi Duncan, I'm sorry I can't help you, even though I'd like to, because I've never used the W-Tail mixer.
Sooner or later I'll have to buy one and test it.

I'm groping, hoping it's useful.
Are the black Esc switches positioned on the same spot? I'm asking because I can't see it in the photo.

Thank you for your input. I had it all working fine 12 months ago when I first got the equipment! It now works fine when I turn the rudder the motor speeds up to help the turn. It's just the second motor is not responding to the throttle but if used on its own without the W-tail it works fine. The cable ends on the W-tail plugs were already labelled with motor1, motor2, motor3 and rudder. 🤔

Duncan,
I am confused. ( Normal for my age). I know what you are trying to achieve, tank steering, but after reading the manual for your WMixer, I am not sure that you can get there.
Are the lead labels, motor 1, motor 2, ect, factory applied, or did you apply them?
The removal of one red lead from one of the ESC radio leads is the correct way to go. Go on you.
The manual talks about connecting motors to leads 1 and 2 and that leads 3 and 4 are duplicates of the former. There is no mention of mixing the rudder into the throttle commands. Strange.
If all else fails, Action Electronics makes a good tank mixer here:
https://www.componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/mixers-multifunction.html
Sorry I could not be of more help.🙄