Len - thank you so much for your help.
You have put a name to a device which I somehow hoped would exist. This has enabled me to further research and successfully shop for one.
The use of this car audio circuit breaker will take the place of my in-line fuse and also be switchable, thereby enabling me to switch the battery on or off without taking up any more space in the boat. I also discovered that these circuit breakers are available in a range of sizes (amperage) going up into the stratosphere ! In my case the 40 amp size is costing less than £8. 😉

I find this one by Len to be an excellent solution.
Great idea Len.

I use the following STETION Car Audio 40 Amp Resettable Fuse Circuit Breaker Car Protect for Audio System Fuse 12-24V DC which I purchased from Amazon. It has 2 functions built into one device. It acts as a resettable circuit breaker that is available in different ratings from 20 to 200 amps and also has a lever switch that you can use to open the circuit to isolate the power and can be reset to restore the power. I have mine inline with the main battery and the load. When I am done for the day or just want to disconnect the load I just flip the lever.
Len

5s is what burned my house almost to ground. Yes get switch higher by 2x or more the amps

I had the same issue when I refurbed my 47" Perkasa. In the end I bought a high current (200Amp) 12volt relay putting the contacts in series with the battery +ve. The coil takes only a few mA when operated via a simple toggle switch, hidden in an alcove on the deck.
That way I can easily power up and down while on the water. You need to ensure that the relay contacts are rated for DC.

Hi Flaxybybuck, I'll tell you my opinion but also wait for the other advice please.

I would always put a switch. In my opinion it is very useful.

Usually you don't need to add them because they already exist on the ESC.
But I don't know your ESC and I don't know if it's already there.
Maybe your question refers to the link below, so I looked to see if there was information on the type of ESC but I didn't see it (maybe I missed it).

I believe there isn't because you say there are no switches on the circuit.
In the absence of a switch on the ESC, I would put it between the batteries and the ESC in order to interrupt everything (if you power the receiver with the BEC).
If you power the receiver and servos with a separate battery (like I do), I would put another switch there too.

Someone in the past rightly pointed out that many switches break easily and every junction is a weak point in the circuit.
I believe that this statement is true, however I prefer not to give up the advantage that a switch offers (which however must be of good quality and above all correctly sized for the currents involved).

One last thing, if you don't want to insert the switch you can use the fuse itself between the battery and ESC. If it is automotive type (with fastons) it is easily removable.
Continuously removing and inserting the fuse (instead of using a switch) will keep the contacts clean but, over time, will loosen the female fasteners.

I hope I have been helpful to you in some way.


Is this your circuit?

forum/137457

Flacybuck i replied to your question 😀😀😀