Midwest Patriot Fireboat

Started by Cashrc

5 updates 72 likes 23 comments
Cashrc Opening post

Midwest Patriot Fireboat

Hi everybody. I’m 95 percent done with the Patrol boat, it needs a few more railings and some small details, but she’s in the “runner” category now. I like to keep a project on my bench, so I decided to build something not too challenging, but interesting none the less. With tha in mind I decided on a kit I found on EBay, a Midwest Patriot Fireboat. This is one of Midwest’s easier to build offerings, plastic hull, wooden superstructure, nothing earth shattering. This kit was almost NIB, with the exception of the hull flange being cut off at the very tip of the bow, and that’s coming off anyway during building, so no harm done. The kit comes with 2 working fire monitors, and a lightly used old SonicTronics pump was included, although I don’t know if I’m using that pump for the monitors or one I’ve used in my Dolly and my Neptun. I’ll cross that bridge later..so here we go!!
The first thing to do is build the stand. Midewest used a lot of lite ply for their aircraft kits, and some of their boats used the same materials for internal structure…it’s also used to build the stand. Once I got that built I added some 5 mm thick basswood to strengthen the stand, then gave it 2 coats of clear. I then started on the internal structure. You basically build a double decker structure that’s glued into the hull when done, the motor mount, radio tray, rudder tube support and stuffing Stude support are all part of it, as is the battery tray. It went together easily. This kit is die cut, and I’ve never had a Midwest kit, aircraft or boat, that the die cutting was less than good. Midwest does some “different” things in regards to their boat internals, but the quality is there.
Once I had that built up I installed it and drilled for the water pick up tube and the rudder tube. I got the rudder tube installed, and installed the skeg and rudder. I’m using the supplied white metal rudder, but I’m going to deviate from the kit and use a proper tiller instead of the glue on white metal supplied in the kit.
I then drilled and laid in the stuffing box. I. Using the kit supplied tube, only thing I did different was to add an oiling tube that I silver soldered in place. Then I made up, but have not installed the motor mount, that will be glued in along with the tube, after my 1/8 to 4mm couplers come in. Once they get her in can make sure the tube and motor are lined up before I glue them in place.
More to come..
Cash
Liked by RNinMunich and RodC and
2 comments
  1. CashrcGold
    Admiral
    Might try EBay Pete, that’s where I found mine. They pop up from time to time. Midwest did a lot of rc boats, some with plastic hulls, some all wood. They also had a decent range of static models, to which I have heard a rumor that Model Expo is bringing that line back.
    Cash
    Liked by Len1 and hermank

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Motor and shaft installed, ruder servo installed, deck installed

Hi y’all. Got a bit more done this week and today. I got the motor mount glued in after my couplers arrived. I’m not deviating a lot under decks from the stock build….but I just don’t like using rubber tube to couple the motor to the shaft, which is what is called for in this kit. So, going forward I had to make a decision on what motor and coupler to use. I have a box full of brushed motors, mostly stock open end bell and some modifieds for rc cars, a few silver can 540 and 550 motors, etc…all of them save 2 I deemed too “hot” for this boat. The 2 I had to choose from are an 80 turn crawler motor, and an old Graupner SOLAR Speed 600. The Graupner motor was used in a drive system for the old Solar-UHU rc motor glider, the kit came with solar cells in the wings to charge the battery in flight extending the flight time. Kit was sold from 93-98 or so. I decided on the crawler motor, if it turns out to be too slow, I can run a 3 cell lipo vs a 2 cell.
I’m using the kit supplied stuffing box. It’s not the best. Midewest liked to use a stuffing box that was essentially tapered down to 4 mm I.D at each end. It works fine, but I have doubts about its longevity, but I didn’t have a good Caldercraft fineline unit in my stash, so I went ahead and used the kit unit. However, I was able to silver solder a greasing tube to the stuffing box, so I’ll keep it well lubed.
Once I decided on the motor, I had to decide on the coupler. I went with one made by Actobotics. These are solid steel, uses bigger grubscrews, and most importantly..no run-out. They’re sold thru places like Servo City and robot supply stores, and are my favorite couplers. Amazon has some that look similar, anodized red, but the quality as far as run out goes varies wildly. I had to modify the motor mount to get the right angle for a slip fit, and move it further aft to make a good connection.
I went ahead and used the kit supplied white metal tiller, it glues to the rudder shaft. I then installed the rudder servo and made sure everything worked ,and after installing the water pickup for the fire monitors, I installed the deck.
Before installing the deck you have to glue in 1/8th balsa deck supports inside the hull, flush with the flange. Once that’s done and sanded the deck can be installed. I used filled epoxy except for the center as that’s the lowest part of the curve of the hull, so after laying in my 15 minute epoxy I used thick ca for that spot to get the deck down tight at that area, after the clamps came off I Dremeled and sanded the flange down, I still need a bit more work to get that joint flush.
That’s where I’m at now, hopefully I can get more done tomorrow.
Cash
Liked by RodC and GARTH and

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Fantail/rudder hatch, superstructure started

Hi y’all. Had some time to do some work on the Patriot today. I started with the fantail. The fantail and hatch are built up of a couple of die cut parts, som scrap, and the whole thing is glued to the stern with the center plug used as the hatch for rudder access. I thought that it was overly complicated for what it is. So I deviated from the “Bokk of Instructions!!” yet again. I used the top part with die cut plug as my bottom, the used a piece of scrap plastic from a Dumas kit that was the same thickness, around 1/8th inch.Dumas called it extruded pvc or some such, I think it’s brand name is Sintra. Anyway, I cut the plastic to match the kit piece, then cut a piece from that, leaving a tapered perimeter from the leading edge all the way around the outside edge. I loosened the die cut plug from the die cut part then reinstalled it dry. I glued the perimeter piece lined up with the die cut kit part, put thick ca on top of the plug, then added the remainder. Looks okay, easier to do. I have a slight gap where me and my old jigsaw didn’t agree, but in reality I’m going to fill the gap anyway and paint over it, knowing I can remove it if repairs to the linkage are needed.
I then built up the superstructure from the kit supplied die cut parts, nothing earth shattering here, parts fit was pretty decent, some parts needed a clean up with a sanding block, and the fwd pilothouse “windows” needed a bevel on the fwd edge to fit as per the instructions.
I’m at the point now where I need to do the bulwarks, then a lot of sanding, sanding sealer, more sanding, then it’s fill and prime time.
Cash
Liked by Isaac and AlessandroSPQR and
3 comments
  1. Ronald
    Fleet Admiral
    Doug, if Cash is doing this high speed smuggler then he should hide the stack for aerodynamic flight across the waves.
    Liked by RNinMunich
  2. RNinMunichBronze
    Fleet Admiral
    Or maybe it rotates back to add a little 'jet power' Ron😁
    You know what Cash is like for widgets and snick snacks😉
    😎
    Liked by Cashrc

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Bulwarks, sanding, filling, paint, windows

Hi y’all. It’s been a bit since the last update..wanted to have a bit more done then sanding and sealing.
So, after I got the superstructure built up. I, er…sealed and sanded it.😂 Then I turned my attention to the bulwarks, which are made from basswood strip about an eighth inch thick and about 3/8 inch wide. Got those in place then more sanding. Once I primered her, I could see almost all of my blemishes, filled/fixed those, then proceeded to paint. While I was waiting for the deck to dry I built up the fire monitors, and painted those fire engine red. I also decided not to build up the kit funnel, as I just didn’t like it. The kit comes with a cardboard tube that you cut a section off to build a drum for the fire hose, and there’s quite a bit left. I used that, some plastic strip and rod to make a funnel and pipe.
Once the paint was done I added the rub rail. Now, at this point I usually go over the boat and touch up anything that I didn’t catch while she’s was in primer. Also, at this point you’re supposed to add the decal “windows”. They’re ugly. Not using them. Nope. I thought about cutting holes in the sides for glazing from the interior, but that would have been much easier BEFORE the cabin was assembled and painted, and being that the cabin is made from 1/8th lite ply I just didn’t think it would look good. I then remembered I had some tinted windows left over from my Graupner Taucher Wulf and Crabbe Ton to tug builds, as I used clear glazing on both.
What I came up was to cut the windows to size, then glue 1/16 square plastic strip to the side edges of the windows, so I would have a frame. These windows are tinted very dark, almost like a limo tint. They also have protective film on both sides. I left the film on, used thick ca (sparingly) to glue the frame sides on, then peeled of the film and cleaned up where necessary. I then glued the cabin windows in place. I then made up 2 doors from plastic sheet and rod, primered and painted, made windows for each, then cut “handles” from sections of old school Robbe 10mm wide brass ladder material.
That’s where she is now. I need to do some touch up in places, mount the funnel, then build up the lights and plumb the monitors, then ballast and leak check.
Cash
Liked by chugalone100 and Isaac and
5 comments
  1. CashrcGold
    Admiral
    Hi y’all…hmm. Ronald, I’m building “mostly” to the Midwest plans. As far as I know the Patriot was not a scale model of any existing prototype, and I thought the original stack was ugly, so I changed it. I think she looks better. I DO have a couple of scale boats in my stash…one’s gonna be…interesting 😎
    Doug…shhh…don’t let on you know my secrets…all this stuff is a secret!! Y’know, “sleeping wid da fishes” secret. The whole fireboat thing is a ruse, we’re gonna pump rum out of the monitors😁
    Cash

    PS. Thinking about naming her the “Revenge”. I have my reasons…🤣
    Liked by RNinMunich and Len1 and
  2. GARTH
    Commodore
    I built one and found that it is quite cramped, and 2 ,7.2-volt batteries one each side of the hull also makes for a tight fit so have fun with that problem.
    Liked by Len1 and hermank and

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Lights, railings, most underdeck equipment in, pump and monitors tested

Hi y’all. I’m very close to having the Patriot seaworthy. I have the lights built up and installed, just need to wire in the bulbs and light switch, and decide if I want to add a second switch and add a search light.
The kit came with cast metal lights not designed to be operable, and it also was missing one from the sealed bag of parts. What I came up with was a small lamp for the aft nav light, and for the port and starboard lamp I used 2 Caldercraft side lamps that needed just a little mod and the addition of a sideboard to look the part-lenses are clear, but I have a small supply of 6 volt green, red and clear bulbs so that’s that.
I built the railings mostly to plan..everything was looking good till I realized I had cut the fwd railing a but too short, and I used the kit template. Usually I use a template and cut oversized, but not THIS time. So, I ended up cutting away the curved part at the bow. The railings are made up of split pins and brass wire, I drilled my holes, then assembled on the deck, tacking the pins with ca.Then I pulled the assemblies and reinstalled. The safety chain was painted red and I used small brass pins from my stash of parts and fittings to make stays that looped over the ends of the rails. Glued on with the pin upright, I then ran the pin through the end links of the cut chain, glued in place, cut the excess pin and touched with a brush. The upper deck railing was done in the same manner.
This morning I worked on the pumps and electrics. The monitors have a press in barbed fitting for the hose to attach to, and you’re warned NOT to glue them to the monitor, I suspect so you can disconnect when you pull the cabin. However, there’s no way to get your hands under that forward monitor to connect. So, I used a piece of and old 540 motor water cooling coil, uncoiled then rebent to my liking. It was a perfect fit in the forward monitor. I glued in the barb on the aft monitor, will disconnect at the tee.
I’m using a single 2200 mah pack for both motor and pump power, and using the same type of pump that I used in my Dolly and Neptun. It’s rated for up to 12 volts, I’m powering the pump with a 20 amp Turnigy aircraft esc. The red wire of the receiver lead is pulled out and safetied so I won’t have 2 BECs thrying to feed the receiver. I tested her on the bench with a bowl of water feeding the pickup. The streams hit the top of the garage door!!😁
I have a bit more to do, and since I’m not running 2 7.2 nimh packs I’ll have to add probably a pound and a half of ballast. Might be able to splash her this Sunday if all goes well.
Cash
Liked by chugalone100 and Isaac and
1 comment
  1. Ronald
    Fleet Admiral
    Cash

    What type of water-pump do you install in your models. My tugboats don’t have firefighting equipment like yours. My tugboats have a firehose system as seen here. (Seen as a white hose near dog in photos)

    I probably could add a crew member designated to be holding a nozzle and thus operate it for demonstration purposes. (spray the kids) 🤗
    Liked by chugalone100 and Len1 and

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A little detailing and she’s ready to maiden!!

Hi y’all. I spent the last few hours at the bench finishing up the Patriot. I was able to tack some tiny pins and glue them to the upper part of the funnel, then glued the funnel and drilled for some small eye screws, then use thread to simulate guywires. I didn’t want to use the supplied decal “portholes” as, like the decal windows I thought they looked awful. I have a small stash of Graupner portholes with a separate window you glue in, so I painted the porthole frame, the glazing is black to match the windows, and installed them. I then added a pinstripe waterline. Once the pinstripes adhesive cures a few days I’ll shoot it with semigloss, and that’s that. Have to give her a name. She’s ballasted a little light but looked good in the tub, I might have to add 4 more ounces or so. I also swapped out the kits brass prop for a slight smaller Graupner 3 blazer with a little less pitch. Hopefully she’ll splash this weekend.
Cash
Liked by EdW and premecekcz and
12 comments
  1. Ronald
    Fleet Admiral
    Would you please answer my question I posted earlier, like 8 months ago…so here it is again.

    You said you are using the same water pump as in other models which was very successful, but the question was what the pump manufacturer is so that others could add it to their model?

    Is the pump wired to be inserted into a channel on the receiver?

    Do you mount the fire nozzle to a servo to allow it to be directed at a target?
    Liked by hermank
  2. chugalone100Silver
    Commodore
    Cash:
    Your Patriot is looking fantastic! The paint job is outstanding, and I really love the color combination you chose for the hull. Your hard work is definitely shining through.
    Keep it up—she’s turning into a beauty!
    😎
    Liked by hermank and RodC

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