Hey all, newish to RC boats but keen scale kit builder.
Usually don't go for converting my scale models, but I picked up this Elco along with a 1/72 Tamiya PT15 in a sale and thought it's too good to sit on a shelf in my loft. (SWMBO doesn't allow me to 'display' my work around the house😮).
I'm not intending weathering/adding loads of etch etc as this makes it too fragile to transport and what-not.
Kit was complete but instructions and ref manual were missing.
I'm aware there are hardware kits to motorised this but they're too pricey for my budget! I've picked up/recycled some
gear to run it but need some build opinions. I've built and primed most of the sub-assemblies and need to decide how to proceed!
1st option, am I gluing these to the deck permanently and just having a completely removable deck? (There are screw fixings to allow the attachment/removal on the kit).
Or 2nd option, fix deck permanently and make the superstructure removable as there are already 2 openings on the deck to allow access?
1st is easier regarding building but more awkward for access. 2nd is harder build, needing more waterproofing and also figuring out how to securely attach wheelhouse etc but also making removal easy and without tools.
Hope the pics help explain!
As ever, all opinions and guidance are truly appreciated!👍
[{"id":"174912575734","name":"174912575734","caption":"","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/174912575734\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/174912575734\/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"},{"id":"174912578741","name":"174912578741","caption":"","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/174912578741\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/174912578741\/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"}]
Hey all, newish to RC boats but keen scale kit builder.
Usually don't go for converting my scale models, but I picked up this Elco along with a 1/72 Tamiya PT15 in a sale and thought it's too good to sit on a shelf in my loft. (SWMBO doesn't allow me to 'display' my work around the house😮).
I'm not intending weathering/adding loads of etch etc as this makes it too fragile to transport and what-not.
Kit was complete but instructions and ref manual were missing.
I'm aware there are hardware kits to motorised this but they're too pricey for my budget! I've picked up/recycled some
gear to run it but need some build opinions. I've built and primed most of the sub-assemblies and need to decide how to proceed!
1st option, am I gluing these to the deck permanently and just having a completely removable deck? (There are screw fixings to allow the attachment/removal on the kit).
Or 2nd option, fix deck permanently and make the superstructure removable as there are already 2 openings on the deck to allow access?
1st is easier regarding building but more awkward for access. 2nd is harder build, needing more waterproofing and also figuring out how to securely attach wheelhouse etc but also making removal easy and without tools.
Hope the pics help explain!
As ever, all opinions and guidance are truly appreciated!👍
When I did my 1/35 the deck does have the screws, but instead of glue, I used clear silicone around the edge then the screws. The thinking was that if I ever needed to remove the deck it would more easily come apart. I have no water issues with this method.
If your kit has port holes, those must also be sealed or glue them in and paint black as light would rarely be visible during operation.
For the access below deck, adding a plastic bulwark around the opening is a safe way for keeping water out.
If you like what I am doing ask for more information.
So things happen and life gets in the way and not managed much loft time lately but did get bit more time in on the Elco past week or so 👏. Some sub-assemblies completed and lots of paintwork done. Hull painted and couple coats varnish to protect the acrylics I use.
I've fixed the wheelhouse permanently to the deck and some smaller pieces such as ammo boxes and torpedo 'racks', (there's a better word than this but damned if I know it!)
A word on the rearmost 2 of these, the deck is designed to screw down and 2 of the screw holes lie under the rear torpedo racks, so in order to keep the screws accessible I moved these forward very slightly. Hadn't seen this mentioned in any of the numerous build logs I've seen on this model so thought it's worth a mention.
I've also installed some extra support around the hole in the deck where the middle and rear sub-assemblies will go but I've still not settled on how to attach/support these while keeping them easily removable for easy access.
Just a couple of pics attached showing some progress and the offending screw holes I mentioned. Hopefully I'll get a bit more free time over the next few weeks to install some electrics and maybe even a test run.....🤞
[{"id":"175132142432","name":"175132142432","caption":"","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/175132142432\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/175132142432\/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"},{"id":"175132142513","name":"175132142513","caption":"","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/175132142513\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/175132142513\/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"},{"id":"175132142629","name":"175132142629","caption":"","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/175132142629\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/175132142629\/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"}]
So things happen and life gets in the way and not managed much loft time lately but did get bit more time in on the Elco past week or so 👏. Some sub-assemblies completed and lots of paintwork done. Hull painted and couple coats varnish to protect the acrylics I use.
I've fixed the wheelhouse permanently to the deck and some smaller pieces such as ammo boxes and torpedo 'racks', (there's a better word than this but damned if I know it!)
A word on the rearmost 2 of these, the deck is designed to screw down and 2 of the screw holes lie under the rear torpedo racks, so in order to keep the screws accessible I moved these forward very slightly. Hadn't seen this mentioned in any of the numerous build logs I've seen on this model so thought it's worth a mention.
I've also installed some extra support around the hole in the deck where the middle and rear sub-assemblies will go but I've still not settled on how to attach/support these while keeping them easily removable for easy access.
Just a couple of pics attached showing some progress and the offending screw holes I mentioned. Hopefully I'll get a bit more free time over the next few weeks to install some electrics and maybe even a test run.....🤞
Hey all,
Looking through some builds and seeing a lot of folk adding fuses to their leccy set-ups. Some Qs.....
Is this a necessary step or dependant on your components?
Is this protection needed for the modern esc/motor set-ups?
Where in the set-up is recommended, e.g. tween esc and battery, tween esc and motor?
Is there a standard size fuse to be used or again is this dependant on components?
The further I get into my build the harder/more complicated it seems to be!
As always, any and all thoughts are much appreciated guys.
👍
Hey all,
Looking through some builds and seeing a lot of folk adding fuses to their leccy set-ups. Some Qs.....
Is this a necessary step or dependant on your components?
Is this protection needed for the modern esc/motor set-ups?
Where in the set-up is recommended, e.g. tween esc and battery, tween esc and motor?
Is there a standard size fuse to be used or again is this dependant on components?
The further I get into my build the harder/more complicated it seems to be!
As always, any and all thoughts are much appreciated guys.
👍
I have not used fuses - yet. I had an esc overheat on one occasion with a lot of smoke coming out of the hatch. It was the fastest 100 meter sprint I have ever made, luckily the water was shallow and I was able to turn off power and rescue the boat. Brushed motor and esc but I may have been stretching things.
A simple inline fuse would have saved a lot of anguish, not counting the near loss of that boat.
I was waiting for someone more experienced and skilled than me to answer, but I decided to write because I'm sorry that you haven't had any answers yet. It must have slipped by (apart from PeterD of course).
This is always a very interesting topic and always much debated in this forum.
I am always in favor of fuses.
I will summarize in a few words the concepts that in my opinion are in favor of inserting one or more fuses.
The main problems that can concern a RC naval model are fire, sinking, loss of control due to failure (the ship remains in the middle of the lake or goes in an unwanted direction).
Of these problems, the most serious and irreparable is certainly fire.
Sinking (not caused by fire) caused by collision is very rare and in any case not connected to the presence or absence of fuses.
Possible infiltrations can cause sinking but allow you to understand the situation in time and in any case have no connection with the presence or absence of fuses.
Loss of control can be caused by the fuse because if it breaks it opens the circuit.
In this case the model could still be recovered intact.
In the same situation that caused the fuse to blow, a fire could have been generated or an important element could have been damaged if the fuse had not been there.
In addition, there are cases in which the fuse intervenes and navigation is not completely interrupted.
I will give an example (it is a particular case not a general one):
"A model ship RC has two electric motors.
Due to a jam in the propeller (leaves, branches, or a wire on the surface has tangled and blocked the propeller) the motor is stopped and absorbs the maximum stall current. This is not a rare case.
If the modeler continues to push the motor forward and does not have a fuse, the electric motor will probably be damaged.
If the modeler has placed the fuse between the esc and the motor, the fuse will blow and the motor is safe.
I believe that the modeler can make his ship return home with the other motor and the rudder."
Of course, if the overcurrent occurs between the ESC and the batteries and a fuse placed there trips, by opening the circuit it cuts off power to everything downstream.
However, without considering that it could have saved the ESC and batteries, if the modeler has powered the radio and servos (rudder and winches if there are any) with a separate battery instead of powering them with the ESC's Bec, he could slowly get closer using the rudder as a paddle.
I hear someone has done it.
I power the receiver and servos with a separate battery and isolate the BEC.
There are various types of fuses, you can choose (as more than one modeler has suggested) the restoring ones.
I am of the opinion that it is good to put fuses both between the ESC and the motor and between the ESC and the battery.
The problem with fuses is the right choice of their sizing.
We have discussed this a lot in the past.
If you are interested, I can search for old topics and post the relative links or give you a summary.
Thanks folks for taking the time to read and indeed reply on the topic of fuses. It seems it's probably a good thing to add them, costs very little in time and money to do, and has no downside.
In the couple of electric trainers/gliders and even leccy cars I've owned, none of them have given me any issues to indicate this was a thing. I'll pick up a few blade holders and a small range of different fuses, I assume a few 10-25 amp fuses maybe be enough or must they be specific to the components I'm using?
Thanks folks for taking the time to read and indeed reply on the topic of fuses. It seems it's probably a good thing to add them, costs very little in time and money to do, and has no downside.
In the couple of electric trainers/gliders and even leccy cars I've owned, none of them have given me any issues to indicate this was a thing. I'll pick up a few blade holders and a small range of different fuses, I assume a few 10-25 amp fuses maybe be enough or must they be specific to the components I'm using?
I have both a 1/35 Elco on the go as well as a 1/72 PT15.
The Elco has a 2 brushless set-up so no fuses in there then.
Just for fun in the smaller boat I'm actually trying out one of the thruster type drives rather than props and in that I'm using a brushed 380. Can't remember off hand the esc numbers but I'll get them tomorrow and can get some opinions on recommended fuse.
Thanks again all.
Update: esc is 60A waterproof and battery is lipo 2200mAh if that's the info needed?
HI. In my 1/24 scale Perkasa MTB (48") I have a brushless motor and use an inline 60 Amp car type fuse. Never had it blow it's just in case I do something stupid. The Lipo 12,500 mAh batteries are capable of over 300 Amps if shorted out.
Hi I all,
Been a while getting back to this build but here goes. Just doing some fiddling to get the innards installed and balanced in the water. Aside from the motors none of the gear is fixed in place yet. The attached pic is rough idea of placement.
So firstly, can someone remind me, do I need to add a fuse along the cables anywhere, if so, what size and best location?
Best place for receiver, fixed in the hull, or in the wheelhouse and just plug in when setting up?
If there's any obvious mistakes here please feel free to correct me, not done a completely new motor set up before any advice is very much appreciated!
[{"id":"17787644669","name":"17787644669.jpg","caption":"","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/17787644669\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/17787644669\/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"17787644671","name":"17787644671.jpg","caption":"","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/17787644671\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/17787644671\/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"17787644688","name":"17787644688.jpg","caption":"","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/17787644688\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/17787644688\/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"17787644805","name":"17787644805.jpg","caption":"","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/17787644805\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/17787644805\/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}]
Hi I all,
Been a while getting back to this build but here goes. Just doing some fiddling to get the innards installed and balanced in the water. Aside from the motors none of the gear is fixed in place yet. The attached pic is rough idea of placement.
So firstly, can someone remind me, do I need to add a fuse along the cables anywhere, if so, what size and best location?
Best place for receiver, fixed in the hull, or in the wheelhouse and just plug in when setting up?
If there's any obvious mistakes here please feel free to correct me, not done a completely new motor set up before any advice is very much appreciated!
If your kit has port holes, those must also be sealed or glue them in and paint black as light would rarely be visible during operation.
For the access below deck, adding a plastic bulwark around the opening is a safe way for keeping water out.
If you like what I am doing ask for more information.
My model uses 1 brushed motor.