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    LESRO/AEROKITS/SLEC SEA URCHIN
    3 Posts ยท 4 Followers ยท 35 Photos ยท 12 Likes
    Began 2 days ago by
    Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class
    New Zealand
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    Latest Post 1 hour ago by
    Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class
    New Zealand
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    ๐Ÿ“ Episode 3
    1 hour ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ Nick Ward ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    โœง 2 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    So far I'd got the basic shape/frame completed - onto the hull sheeting. As I was using balsa, I chose to upsize the thickness to 3/32 sheet and orientated the grain to assist with matching the chine curves.

    24) 20MAR2026 - 3/16" square section rear hatch supports glued into place.

    25) & 26) 3/32 balsa sheeting makes up the hull bottom.

    27) Rear hull sides started, then paused so open sides around the cabin ease motor-mount installation.

    28) 1mm aluminium sheet motor mount bent into shape using hammer and vice ๐Ÿ˜‰, drilled for mounting screws, then epoxied to RE360 motor. Coupling from flexible gas tube with narrower piece of silicone fuel tube inserted in one end to cater for disparity between shaft diameters (2mm motor to 3.2mm shaft). Decided against universal metal coupling at this size of boat, also hoping any slight misalignment might be 'absorbed' by the flexibility of the coupling. This type of coupling worked well in the Knocker White tug.

    29) Rudder assembly made up from 0.5mm brass sheet soldered to 1/8" piano wire shaft, tiller from same brass sheet soldered to 1/8" wheel collet. Shaft is to be secured to transom using 1/8" undercarriage straps.

    30) 1.5mm ply transom sheet glued to balsa transom - this is not shown on the plan, but I chose to add it as the rudder assembly mounting screws needed something a little denser to screw into, as well as covering up the ends of the chines. Another piece of ply was glued on the inside of the balsa transom to create a ply-balsa-ply sandwich. A groove was then filed into the ply transom on the outside to allow free movement of the rudder shaft despite being 'clamped'.

    31) - 34) 3/16" motor mount bearers slotted onto keel, then trimmed for correct angle of 3mm motor mounting ply plate. Motor attached to prop shaft using solid coupling to align before ply plate glued with 5 minute epoxy (the epoxy fills any gaps if the bearers are not quite right๐Ÿ˜‰). With the solid coupling also providing lateral alignment between the two shafts, screw hole positions can be marked in the ply plate and drilled.

    35) And finally for this instalment, setting up the RC gear to test before doing a 'dry run' of the installation in the boat prior to finishing off the side sheeting. This RC set up was very similar to that used in the Knocker White tug, which made the tug perform like a speedboat(!?!) and get on the plane before it was properly ballasted;
    - a cheap metal geared 10gram servo for the rudder, salvaged from a crashed RC plane, 5-cell NimH battery pack for motor and RX power, 10Amp brushed ESC from Ali Express, and Spectrum AR 410 4ch RX. Wires were soldered to the motor and everything wired up and switched on to check it all worked prior to installing into the boat - we're up 02APR2026.

    Best regards,

    Nick

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    ๐Ÿ“ Episode 2
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ Nick Ward ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    โœง 28 Views ยท 5 Likes ยท 2 Comments
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    9) 02MAR2026 - 3/32 hardish balsa cabin sides cracked and glued at 'crease' line shown on plan - propped up at approx correct angle and held with weights.

    10) 3/16 balsa breasthook glued to keel assembly and checked for squareness.

    11) Bulkhead 1 glued to breasthook/keel assembly.

    12)&13) Bulkhead 2 glued to keel and checked for squareness, and alignment using centre markings and mark one eye-ometer - I think it was good...๐Ÿค”

    14)&15) Remaining main bulkheads attached and checked over plan for general alignment while glue still 'pliable'.

    16) Cabin sides slotted into place after some keel length adjustment to ensure better fit to transom slots.

    17) Top and bottom inner chine laminations added from 3/32" x 1/4" strips. NB the original plan shows 1/4" x 1/8 hardwood or spruce chine stringer pieces, but as I was using balsa, I chose to use 2 laminations of 3/32" balsa, as I felt it would be easier to bend into shape in 2 stages, and strong enough with it being laminated. The notches in the bulkheads had been cut accordingly. As it turned out, I probably could have got away with 2 laminations of 1/16" balsa, as laminated balsa is remarkably strong and stiff for its weight - a lesson learned in several of my vintage model aircraft builds.

    18)&19) Outer chine layers added.

    20) Lower chines sanded flush with bulkheads to seat hull bottom sheeting.

    21) Reinforcing 3/32" strips glued around cabin window frames and cabin front added - I made a mistake with the front cabin window piece, which should have had a curve to match that of the roof hatch - I later had to add a piece to the top and sand it to shape once I had made up the roof hatch - see later.

    22) Bulkhead B3A glued in.

    23)12MAR2026 - prior to adding hull bottom sheeting - starting to look like a Sea Urchin!

    Best regards,

    Nick

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Episode 2
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง zooma ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 19 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    "I decided to start this following a suggestion from one of you on this website"

    ........yup is was me, and I and so pleased that you have decided to take the suggestion and run with it.

    The smaller Aerokits designs will be perfect to run on your "garden lake" and are also sea worthy enough to take to other locations to give them a run on "fresh waters" ...if you should ever feel the need for a change......

    The Sea Urchin was the design that always appealed to me and attracted my attention as I thumbed my way through the Keil Kraft catalogue (when I should have been working on my school homework).

    Back then, I never really considered how the rudder could be best attached to the outside of the transom - or how to steer the model with the best (least obvious) way of connecting the tiller to a steering servo.

    I look forward to seeing how you resolve this (I have a Sea Urchin kit to build ๐Ÿค”) and I look forward to seeing this Classic Model Power Boat completed and running on your private waters ๐Ÿ‘

    Bob.
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Episode 2
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡น AlessandroSPQR ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 23 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    It's going well, Nick.
    ๐Ÿ“ LESRO/AEROKITS/SLEC SEA URCHIN
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ Nick Ward ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    โœง 47 Views ยท 7 Likes ยท 1 Comment
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    I decided to start this following a suggestion from one of you on this website, that the smaller Lesro designs such as the Sea Urchin, Sea Nymph and Fast Patrol Boat would perhaps be able to be sailed relatively safely on my backyard pond with reduced power settings.
    As I have most of the plans for these designs, it stood to reason that my severe building addiction could be somewhat satisfied in the background whist trying to solve arising issues on another much larger build I had already embarked on but which had stalled for the time being (namely Vivacity).
    So here goes with just a few pics to set the ball rolling;

    1) 20FEB2026 - measuring and transferring shape of parts onto paper templates and balsa - I decided to use balsa for most of the frame as I had plenty, and I find it much easier to work with on smaller boats. And the model was for modest electric power, not small diesel, so it should be plenty strong enough if the outer hull is covered with tissue, as on the Knocker White Tug model completed earlier.

    2)&3) Keel and bulkhead parts cut from 3/16" balsa. Keel doublers glued on first side using exterior grade PVA, all excess 'splurge' immediately wiped away using damp rag - I cannot stress enough the importance of this, as it really minimises/eases the 'fettling' required to fit bulkhead/other parts as the build progresses.

    4)Keel assembly turned over and propshaft 'slot' cut away/filed.

    5)Remaining keel doublers glued with PVA, as well as 5 minute epoxy around prop shaft/keel/doubler sandwich.

    6)Bulkhead shapes reinforced with scrap 1/16" balsa crossgrain at edges where slots are to be cut, creating a sort of 'liteply'.

    7)Keel assembly completed with proptube reinforcement and bow doublers glued. Bulkhead slots for cabin sides/keel cut.

    8)Fettling and test fitting bulkheads to keel - and a celebratory glass of Henkell Trocken to mark the progress to date - 01MAR2026.

    More to come once I've done this weekend's property jobs!

    Best regards to all reading,

    Nick

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: LESRO/AEROKITS/SLEC SEA URCHIN
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ jumpugly ( Admiral)
    โœง 27 Views ยท 1 Like
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    Whoa! Awesome Start Nick!!!!!
    ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜‰


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