HI guy's,
Didn't expect such rapid replies, but thanks for info, the boat is actually 34 3/8 inches long. it's a shame that the builder didn't use a one piece lift off upper only small individual roof sections. But I was able to separate the cabin structure using a shortened modeling knife and great care. the paint was removed using a heat gun and small scraper took me about 25 minutes.
Thanks Colin.

2 items I find very useful for stripping paint off model boats, especially if they contain plastic/abs parts.

1/ "Fairy power spray" oven cleaner - spray on, leave for about 5 - 10 mins, then brush off with a firm bristled brush and warm water.
OR

2/ there is a marine stripper called "safe stripper", used by the full size craft people, its a green coloured gel like substance, works like a normal paint stripper, but again safe for models with any plastic or abs content.

ive tried and tested both and both work well, of course, the "household [1] is easily available from your local store too!

HI Colin
Really nostalgic looking model. Typical construction for its age and all the inside of the hull hidden behind the false sides. As Gregg says the cracking and splitting is clearly visible and I suspect you will find even more as you remove the paint. Have you decided what to use to remove the paint?

HI Ihave a 34 inch one is this one 34 or 46 she looks quite large in the photos, will be watching with interest the refitting will you be keeping the same motor. Graham

Always better to remove as much of the old paint coating f there are any signs of it cracking/splitting. far better to make sure the base framework is solid .
best of luck with the restoration and look forward to the indepth details "as it goes".

HI Dave and Graham,
Yes the original build glue does seem like cascamite, but the shaft tube has been fitted using what I believe to be a polyester resin, as it softens with a little cellulose thinners and then scrapes away quite easily using a dentist's pick (which I find very useful modelling tools). Just a bit slow but wont damage structure this way as there is about 3 inches by about 1 inch of it to remove. Once out I will check shaft length and alignment and refit shaft tube with new bearings and make a new stainless shaft if needed. But won't be able to do anymore work on boat till Monday as this weekend I will be away collecting our new puppy from my sisters near Bath, Won't be back till late Sunday.
Will add more pictures and news as it happens next week. By for now Thanks Colin.

HI Colin
Whilst I would agree that gentle heat will help with some resins I suspect your boat was built with Cascamite, an aliphatic resin. This dries rock hard and unlike some two part resins will not soften with heat.

HI Colin Congrats on new arrival, and was sorry to hear of your loss, Looking forward to seeing the finished boat at Cwmbran, and following your building work. Graham

Thanks Graham,
I'll give it a go as soon as I can get back in my workshop, lot going on at home at moment new puppy arriving tomorrow. Will let you know how it goes.
Thanks Colin.

HI Colin, While twisting with the pliers I would add some hot air from an old hair drier or you could apply some heat from a hot air stripper, but be careful with the second choice they can be very hot. This will soften the glue around the shaft and make it easier to remove. Graham

Grip the shaft in a pair of pliers and twist firmly from side to side to loosen the glue. With any luck the glue will break and you will then be able to remove. I would not recommend a blow lamp but you may be able to chip away the glue where it forms a fillet. I have used a small Dremel type drill with a permagrit arbor to remove some of the wood and fixing. Being wood you can easily replace what you remove with new wood.

HI Dave M and Graham,
Thanks for your input, its much appreciated.
How would you suggest I remove the prop shaft tube, it seems to be well and truly fixed in some kind of resin or fiber glass, my small files don't seem to make much Impact and the small power tools that I have seem to have a mind of their own, quite uncontrollable. would a minI blow lamp applied to shaft tube soften the resin or would it damage shaft tube.
and GRAHAM, yes I remember you from Cwmbran. I don't know if you'd remember my old dog that was with us, he was very Ill shortly after and died 2 weeks ago, that's why we haven't been over lately. He's in my avatar picture.
Thanks again Colin.

HI Colin, its Graham from Cwmbran club your son saved my Sea Commander, when I last saw you. I concur with Dave my Huntsman was built by me in the 70's and the positioning of the prop shaft was for an IC installation. The Lead at the rear was certainly to balast the heavy front motor. I shortened my Prop shaft and adjusted the inner accordingly, this has brought my motor about 2inches nearer the middle of the boat but it still seems nose heavy, when not running but it will lift under power there are some pictures of mine on the site somewhere and she looks good I think. The original construction has quite a solid block at the front carved to the match the hull shape, which does not help. As you have done such a large amount of preparation on the hull I think that it would pay you to repostition a shorter shaft so as to bring you motor more to the middle and help the boat float in a more level static position. I hope that my comments are useful to you and look forward to seeing finished result at Cwmbran. All the very best with the rebuild Graham

HI Colin
Hull wise you are doing a great job.

Regarding the propshaft I suspect this was possibly originally positioned to allow for an IC engine. Even the present motor requires quite a high mount. As you have easy access I would remove the present shaft and reposition with your motor and prop of choice so that the angle to the hull was less acute.

Ideally your heavy motor is best placed near the middle of the model to allow easy planing of the hull. The lump of lead at the rear indicates the present motor is too far forward. You may need to shorten the shaft in the process.

Do remember to allow for placement of batteries etc but I'm sure you will have already considered this. 😀

Firstly I must make sure that all minor filling done, then I will be coating in glass cloth and EEZE KOTE resin, Before refitting the running strakes. And yes the stuffing tube , bearings and shaft are all good, although I'm not sure about position, had thought about using a flexi-shaft to move the prop a bit further back and parallel to keel, any comments on this idea. When striping I had to remove 468 grams of lead from stern well behind the rudder post. This made me think that angle of prop was trying to lift the stern out of water and forcing bow down.
Thanks Colin.

HI Colin
Looks nice and clean. Are you going to cover the hull with some cloth/matting and fibreglass? Looks like the running strakes have been removed so the hull is now smooth. I assume you have checked the propshaft and bearings?

HI Ian,
I got mine on eBay £13 and free p&p. Eze-dope is not the same, that's for using over tissue paper on planes.
And you don't need to worry about clean up (even fingers) just soap and water and its gone.
Colin.

Thanks for the information Colin. I have always used epoxy up until now but Eze Kote certainly sounds...eze-er! my main problem is getting some. I can order it but will pay about £3 postage. A local shop has Eze Dope and says it's the same thing- but I'm doubtful. I will have to wait until I can order several bits from a supplier who keeps it.

I know you have been involved with full size craft as have I- but I did have a nasty reaction to epoxy once (stupidly using a bare digit as a handy smoothing tool) so am very wary of it now.

Ian

HI Ian,
Thanks for your comments, the use of Eze-Kote is far simpler than epoxy or polyester resin, as there is no odor so you wont upset the family if you need to work in your home, and at normal room temperature dries quite quickly.
You can use almost any type of finishing fillers or filler primers on it or if your cloth is fine enough you can prime directly onto it. I've used Humbrol enamels and acrylics also car paints in aerosols from Halfords, and had colours mixed at local car paint suppliers.
I haven't had any problems with any so far, so good luck,
use a glass cloth of 24gsm or less.
Thanks Colin.

It's looking good Colin. I'm just on the cusp of buying some Eze Kote so I was interested to read your positive comments about it. Look forward to seeing your restoration progress.

Ian

HI Colin, Looking good, II will try to pm you
Brian

Thanks for that. I will try this next time I build a hull- just felt a bit anxious about having an unmanageable mess on my hands- I'll have a bit more courage next time!

Ian

You can buy glass cloth in a fine weave for about £5 a sq Metre. Will give a superb glass finish and sands beautifully.
Regarding laminating round bilge keels you cut the cloth oversize, place on the hull and then cut from the edge into the cloth where the hull is curved. This will allow the cloth to follow the curve with an overlay which will strengthen the join. Make sure you work the resin into the cloth underneath before covering with the overlay. Once dry fine wet and dry will smooth the overlay. A final coat of resin will give you a glass like finish. 😀

By the way, I forgot to mention I have found a product called Poly-C which is supposed to be the same as Eze Kote but cheaper. it is excellent.

I have just skinned a balsa and plywood hull with the leg of some nylon tights and found it works very well. The main problem is finding a pair of tights big enough- my wife is fairly petite and I found I just couldn't bring myself to stand for long browsing the tights section in my local Morrisons!

One leg only came 2/3rds along the hull and I had to overlap from each end which wasn't ideal but with a bit of wet and dry and P38 I think I've got away with it.

I wasn't sure how a piece of laminating cloth would drape round a round bilged hull- and still don't know!

Looking forward eventually to seeing shots of this in action, Colin

Nice neat job Colin- coming along well.

Deck planking using mahogany and pine.

HI Colin
Your models look great, they are a credit to you and your wife,
regards
martin

HI Brian,
The figures are from the wife's collection, it was her idea to add them, and it got a lot of interest at the Abbergavenny vintage show at the weekend.
Only 3 coats of varnish so far as time ran out for the show, so will be doing more in the next week or so, still need to make a new windscreen as the old one shattered when it was removed, but managed to re-use all the other windows.
I also need to finish the hull paintwork, and fit door handles to cabin doors (will be making my own, as I did with the other deck fittings, cleats and fair-leads Found that old 3 pin 13 amp plugs are a good supply of small brass for making small parts). Hope the weather picks up soon as can't paint or varnish with the damp air.
Thanks for comments, Colin.

HI Colin, looking good like the figures, have you been robbing your wife's dolls houses!! The gloss on the deck looks very deep, Impressive, Brian.