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    Scratch built, Working Steam powered Drifter trawler LT100, to 1:24th scale.
    by stevedownunder ๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡บ ( Lieutenant)
    ๐Ÿ“ฃ










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    ๐Ÿ“ Foreroom Fish Hatch.
    5 days ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    With the main hatch almost done I turned my attention to the Foreroom fish hatch and itโ€™s covering boards.

    Starting with the Coaming I decided to have another go at doing something of a joint, with the experience gained from my last attempts it turned out quite well.

    Firstly I found the angle using the protractor off the saw then cut 4 pieces to length allowing enough length for the joint to be cut.

    Then I cut a rebate on the side pieces for the covers to sit into using the saw, with the optional fence extension.

    Next back to the saw to cut most of the material away, finishing off the joints by hand.

    When it came to assembly I didnโ€™t want some sort of weird shape with unequal angels so I set the assembly up on my saw and with a bit of fiddling got the result I wanted.

    Once the glue had dried work started on the covers, these need to be a nice fit so care was taken when measuring and cutting, making then slightly longer and using the sander to carefully trim, I am quite happy with the fit hopefully enough clearance for paint.

    Next up cutting the recesses and grooves for the handles re-using the jig for main hatch boards.
    This went much the same as last time however I wasnโ€™t able to hold these ones very well due to there smaller size consequently some chattering occurred causing a poor machined finish.

    All sides were sanded and cleaned up then the finishing touch of making up โ€œcleatsโ€.

    These need to be made from stronger material than either Pines I have been using, one thing dad told me was that old good quality wooden rulers were made from quality wood even Boxwood, dad saved old rulers and I still have them.

    Now I donโ€™t know if the wood I used is Boxwood but the stuff I used is very fine grained and quite strong.

    The donor ruler was cut in a way to make a profile that could be then cut to length making more than enough โ€œcleatsโ€, the only down side is the grain isnโ€™t running the best way for strength, so much for my bright idea, luckily the wood is quite strong enough even with the grain running the wrong way.

    Before cutting to length a radius was sanded on.

    After setting up the saw cutting off โ€œcleatsโ€ was easy, the photo doesnโ€™t show it but I put a piece of scrap over the โ€œcleatโ€ to prevent them flinging off into who knows where.

    With enough โ€œcleatsโ€ cleaned up I marked their positions as per drawing and added some masking tape to help align what are quite small parts, then they were glued on.

    Thatโ€™s it for the moment, thanks for looking in and stay safe.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Foreroom Fish Hatch.
    4 days ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Martin,
    Much appreciated. ๐Ÿ˜€

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Foreroom Fish Hatch.
    4 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Stephen,

    Whenever i see your work i instantly get lost for words as your attention to detail and model making skills amaze me.
    So in this instance I will just have to settle for the word AWSOME.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Foreroom Fish Hatch.
    4 days ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Rick,
    I'm trying hard. ๐Ÿ˜€

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Foreroom Fish Hatch.
    4 days ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks JB,

    Good idea thanks, luckily I got clean cuts.

    I am always happy to look at other ways of doing things, there is always more than one way to do something, I usually find the hardest way. ๐Ÿ˜

    Pandemic wise, Victoria has around 2000 new cases per day even though we were supposedly locked down, last year you would have thought the sky was falling at 200 cases, and we have just opened up, no more curfew and if you have had the jab you can go to a pub, cafรฉ and sit down or get your hair cut, if you haven't had a jab you cannot do these things and working is only possible if you can work remotely, which is what I am doing.
    By next weekend we will be able to travel into reginal Victoria, of course this won't affect the case numbers will it ๐Ÿ™„, and international travel is starting up soon without quarantine if jabbed.

    My wife and I are quite happy to stay put for the time being, not straying too far.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Foreroom Fish Hatch.
    4 days ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Gary,

    Maybe I shouldn't include photos like no 15 as it is potently dangerous.

    The saw blade is carbide tipped 100mm diameter x 1.5mm wide.

    Long way to go yet.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Foreroom Fish Hatch.
    4 days ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    HI Steve, brilliant stuff as usual. Certainly need the right type of wood (and sharp blades) to do such fine cuts,- especially cross cuts without chipping. Just a thought- if you ever have problems with chipping, (say eg for a job like this) you could cut a rebate (just deeper than the part) in the front of a thick board, and cut into the board, using it as a backstop (clamped to your slide), - supports both sides of the cut and should stop chipping). You can create a tunnel on the offcut side to collect the cut pieces, (for mass production).

    More for less skilled wood choppers than you, as I'm sure you'd figure that one out๐Ÿ˜

    BTW how's the chinflu battle going with you 'Southerners' ? - we're just ramping cases up over here now. (we're a bit slow)๐Ÿ˜

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Foreroom Fish Hatch.
    5 days ago by Newby7 ( Vice Admiral)
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    Stephen wonderful work .
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Foreroom Fish Hatch.
    5 days ago by GaryLC ( Midshipman)
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    Hi Stephen, I absolutely love this building blog of yours, as very interesting and I enjoy the explanations and photographs and the lengths you go to produce the perfect result. As per the very neat angled half-lapped corners on the small and large hatches, and the use of the old wooden ruler for the cleats. Photo 15 is a bit eye-watering on the small very neat little circular saw, with (optional fence) mind the fact all your digits are intact and healthy proves a point. That is a very clean and precise cut into the ruler, what is the diameter and width of the blade? The last photo with the cleats fitted is absolutely brilliant, first-class workmanship as per always. Keep up the good work as it's all coming together. Regards, Gary.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Hatch cover Handles.
    21 days ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    The hatch cover handles started by cutting a small groove using an even smaller woodruff cutter than before to rough out the width and length, reusing the jig made for making the recess.

    One little trick to find out when the cutter is getting close to touching the job is to use a piece of paper, as you slowly move the job towards the cutter it will start to grab the paper then you know you are getting close.

    I set the stops on the mill to give me a repeated slot length, this was done with a bit of back and forth try a bit and check taking my time, even though I had a couple of spare pieces I didnโ€™t want to stuff any up.

    Next thing was to get some brass strip that was 1.3mm x .5mm something I didnโ€™t have in stock, though I had some Brass sheet .5mm thick, all I had to do is cut some strips 1.3mm wide.
    I know from previous experience that cutting such thin strips is problematic I therefore decided to use one of the zero clearance saw table inserts I bought with the saw.

    Using a .5mm wide slitting blade I cut through the insert until I got to a height I was happy with then removed the insert and carefully added a very small amount of clearance so the slitting blade would not rub.

    When it came to cutting the .5mm sheet I stuck it to an old piece of ply wood using double sided tape to provide some support, set the required thickness and cut a few strips.

    After cleaning up the double sided tape which was by now getting quite ordinary because of the cutting oil I used when cutting, I started cutting it into the required lengths.

    To do this I used 2 pieces of scrap to trap and support the strip while I cut it, this preformed 2 functions one to prevent the piece from deforming the other to prevent it flying across the room at the end of cut, these 2 things I have learnt the hard way in the past.

    Now I had the handles made and having roughly cut the slots on the mill for them to sit in I needed to finish off the slots, after making a bit of a mess of the first one, I then had a look around the workshop trying to find a suitable tool with no luck.

    Then I decided to modify a scalpel blade and turn it into a little chisel, this was quite easily done using a bench grinder, being careful not to overheat the blade.

    Then the process of cutting all of the slots to size began, this took me quite a while as I wanted a good fit for all of them.

    Once all the slots were finished off I began gluing in the handles using Titebond 3.

    There are a couple of workers that came along in their Sunday best for a photo in the ship yard, they are quite happy with the progress.๐Ÿ˜

    At the end I am quite happy with the end result even though the handles seemed like a bit of an anti climax, what seems like a lot of work for little reward.

    Still some more work to do on the Hatch coaming, and eventually painting blue.

    Next up Fore room Hatch coaming and covers.

    Thatโ€™s it for the moment, thanks for looking in and stay safe.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch cover Handles.
    20 days ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Mike,
    Love your Avatar Tin Tin was one of my favorite comics.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch cover Handles.
    20 days ago by MikeStoney ( Master Seaman)
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    Hi Stephen,
    Really filigree work!
    I take off my hat to your patience !!
    Greetings Mike from Switzerland

    ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch cover Handles.
    20 days ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Martin,
    Good question, honestly I don't really know, I think I have left enough clearance for paint. As I intend to use Acrylic Lacquer applied thinly I hope all will be good. Watch this space.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch cover Handles.
    20 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Stephen,
    I have just had another look at the Hatches and was wondering will you have to sand a little off all the way around each individual hatch cover, for the thickness of the Stain and Varnish.?

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch cover Handles.
    21 days ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Guys,

    Thanks for all the likes and comments, I do really appreciate them. ๐Ÿ˜€

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch cover Handles.
    21 days ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Doug,

    The "stuff" thing largely depends on context for us Mexicans down south in Australia. (People in New South Wales refer to Victorians as Mexicans)

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch cover Handles.
    21 days ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Graham,

    I am quite happy with the end result and somehow that sort of effort does translate into something special that is hard to describe, I think as model makers we all put something of ourselves into our creations.

    Thanks, I was quite happy with that idea as well, though it took an extensive search of my workshop looking for a tool I don't have before thinking of it.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch cover Handles.
    21 days ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Gary,

    I am glad that you and other people are getting something out of my blog, funny enough while writing this post I was wondering weather I was wasting my time with the effort I put into each post, now I know there are people who appreciate and enjoy my mediocre writings.
    It would have been much easier to make the handles from plastic, but that didn't seem quite right for this build. Sorry Martin.๐Ÿ˜Š

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch cover Handles.
    21 days ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks JB,

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch cover Handles.
    21 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Brilliant stuff Stephen,
    (Er! Oops! Stuff means summat totally different down there doesn't it! Learned from the Sea Patrol series ๐Ÿ˜)
    Great work and an excellent tutorial, keep it up ๐Ÿ‘
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch cover Handles.
    21 days ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Martin,


    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch cover Handles.
    21 days ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Colin,
    I am very happy that you are enjoying my articles, I would say there are many more to come.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch cover Handles.
    21 days ago by Graham93 ( Commodore)
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    Hi Stephen,

    Love the fine detail. Yes a lot of work, but the reward is achieving the result that you wanted, and knowing how much of a challenge it was.

    Useful tip about modifying the scalpel blade. One to remember for next time I need a micro chisel.

    Graham93
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch cover Handles.
    21 days ago by GaryLC ( Midshipman)
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    Hi Stephen, I absolutely love your blogs, always very interesting and in great detail with lots of excellent photos. Most of all it's the fact that you always go that extra mile to accomplish the almost impossible. When it comes to a choice of handles, do I turn down some brass rod, or use a slitting saw blade on a brass sheet. The more difficult has to be the brass sheet so brass sheet it is, and very neat little handles they most certainly are. It reminds me of something I read in a shop, which was The impossible we do straight away, but miracles take a little longer, I think that about sums it up. Regards, Gary.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch cover Handles.
    21 days ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Cracker job as usual Stephen๐Ÿ‘ great 'micro modelling' as Martin put it.

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch cover Handles.
    21 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Stephen,
    Wow your skills are awesome that is 'Mind blowing micro modelling' at it's best.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch cover Handles.
    21 days ago by Colin H ( Vice Admiral)
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    Steve, loving your detailed write-up as much as the photos. Makes me think this is a real master craftsman at work.
    Keep it coming shipmate, cheers Colin.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Hatch Coaming continued.
    1 month ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    As the Hatch Coaming has progressed I have decided to make the covers and centre beams removable as in the original following the description in Ted Frosts book Tree to Sea, the idea being when displayed, some or all of the hatch covers can be removed to revile fishing nets and net floats.

    Although the main fish hold wonโ€™t be the full depth I am hopeful there will be enough depth to create the illusion of depth, hopefully this will add a point of interest.

    One trouble with this idea is it adds to how much work is involved and the level of accuracy goes up significantly to create it, nothing new there. ๐Ÿ˜

    After accurately finding the center of the end pieces I machined a groove, then squared off the end using a scalpel.

    Next I glued the outer parts together and left them overnight.
    Then carefully measured and cut the center beam into two parts and assembled them.

    Next was the hatch covers there being 6 on the main part and 2 on the aft part, these would need to be accurately measured and cut for it to work.
    I wanted hatch covers to able to be put in any order.
    Teds description of the hatch covers indicates the grab handles are flush, with a recess chiseled out.
    This represented a bit of a challenge, firstly these grab handles need to be in the same relative position, of coarse this called for a simple jig to fix the location, once made the jig was attached to the vice using double sided tape.

    A test run on a piece of scrap showed the orientation to be wrong, after a quick modification this was rectified and using what I would call a small woodruff cutter, 3 cuts were made to get the required height, this was repeated 32 times.

    Next comes the handles themselves this is proving to be more of a challenge than expected and will be included in the next update.

    As I am inching slowly closer to needing to apply some finishes, I have experimented with a locally made hobby Acrylic Lacquer the brand being SMS.

    I bought a starter pack that includes Black, White also Gloss and Matt Clear. I soon found that I could thin the black to something more like an Ink and when sprayed onto some stanchion off cuts that had been glued together it did a great job of weathering the Huon pine, so far I am very impressed with this product, more experiments to come.

    The two photos of my test block, one showing solid black through to very thin ink like black with a clear over the top and an unpainted piece for comparison, the other photo showing stained and clear coated with a just stained piece for comparison.

    Thatโ€™s it for the moment, thanks for looking in and stay safe.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch Coaming continued.
    26 days ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Commodore H,

    Welcome aboard, thanks for the comment.

    The saw is a Byrnes table saw, made in the USA, expensive but well worth the price in my opinion.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch Coaming continued.
    26 days ago by Commodore-H ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Nice job, and some excellent detailed pictures.

    That is a good looking little table saw, who makes that?
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch Coaming continued.
    26 days ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Gary,
    Thanks for your photos of your beautiful Danny Boy.
    I am mainly following Ted's description of how the hatch boards were done along with one of his sketches.

    The thwartship boards I have roughed out already, they will be added after the planking is done. I think there are some differences between Dany Boy and Formidable the thwartship boards are permanent on Formidable.

    No I haven't given the removable rollers or other deck fittings much thought yet, this deviation is more about building the hatch coamings before planking the deck, just taking longer and in more depth than expected.

    By the way the hatch coaming frame is made from Kari pine and the covers are from Huon pine.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch Coaming continued.
    26 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Gary,
    A very nice neat installation on a very nice model.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch Coaming continued.
    26 days ago by GaryLC ( Midshipman)
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    Just a couple of photos of Drifter steam plant, and gas valve, plus for the curious, where Davy Jones's locker actually is. Regards, Gary.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch Coaming continued.
    26 days ago by GaryLC ( Midshipman)
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    Hi Stephen, and this is my interpretation of the main hold cover boards, which seemed like a good idea at the time with a degree of poetic license, as the gas tank valve appeared outside of the cover boards, hence the packing crate to hide the valve. A question, have you given any thought to the wooden rollers on each side of the hold and on the top edge of the hull over the handrail? Plus the slide-in boards from the corner of the hold into the bulwarks, to stop the herring from covering the decks. Onwards, upwards and outwards. Regards, Gary. Remember the molygoggers!!!!!!!!!!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch Coaming continued.
    28 days ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Doug,
    The reference to fish heads is what I believe ratings call officers in the navy, I don't really know but it sounded good at the time.
    Thanks for looking in.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch Coaming continued.
    29 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Stephen,
    "Yeah who would have known I would get to being a fish head.๐Ÿ˜
    I guess that's better than being a 'Cod Piece' ๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    I wish you more steam to your drifter (might stop her drifting ๐Ÿ˜).
    Watching (and learning) with enormous interest๐Ÿ‘
    'Fair dinkum cobber!'
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch Coaming continued.
    29 days ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Gary,
    I have made 2 extra of the large and one extra of the small covers at the moment I will clear those three and paint the rest blue as described by Ted Frost, although the inside I will clear to show the wood colour.
    Yeah who would have known I would get to being a fish head.๐Ÿ˜

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch Coaming continued.
    29 days ago by GaryLC ( Midshipman)
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    Hi Stephen, you are making really good progress of late, and your main (fish) hold hatch cover looks great an exercise in hatch fitting. I very much like the timber also and yet another Pine I have never heard of, personally, I love the colour and would settle for a bit of satin varnish on it, and that's it job finished. one can't improve on perfection. Congratulations on the heady rise in rank to Lieutenant, mind I feel you have earned this with your ongoing and very interesting build blog, keep up the good work. Regards, Gary.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch Coaming continued.
    1 month ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Martin,

    That would be another jig ๐Ÿ˜ funny enough Royal navy sailors were encouraged to dance, probably being helped with a good ration of Grog.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch Coaming continued.
    1 month ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Excellent work Stephen.
    You are definitely the master of detail.

    When you mention about templates and jig's my mind tends to wonder.(you know me).

    Is a jig something a happy drunk sailor dose below decks.LOL!!!

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch Coaming continued.
    1 month ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks JB,
    The handles are flat bar and flush fitted, the challenge is cutting the recesses and making the 1.3mm x .5mm x 7mm long brass bars.
    That's a bugger about the draw bar.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hatch Coaming continued.
    1 month ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Nice job on the coamings and hatches Stephen (as usual)๐Ÿ‘ Are the handles just a straight flush bar, or are they a bit fancier? Mills do make handy routers at times๐Ÿ‘ I use mine sometimes just with a milling bit in the chuck (a bit rough I know, but for wood it's fine) I have a proper collet chuck as well, but it's a performance to change it just for a minutes work, (the roof in my workshop is too low to remove the draw bar, so I have to crank it right down to change chucks).

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ“ Covering Boards and Hatch Coaming.
    1 month ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    I began by remaking the 2 forward covering boards, even though I had a good template (the old ones) this still took quite a while, but I got there in the end.

    I re-did some more stanchions swapped others and opened up the clearance between covering board and stanchions on most of them, meaning there is more clearance than I would really like, though if I donโ€™t tell anyone no one will know. ๐Ÿ˜

    Moving away from the covering boards and stanchions, while still not quite complete, I still need to trim the inside edge of all the covering boards.

    This deviation is partly because I donโ€™t really know what to do next, I still have concerns about the stanchions, currently I am considering making up the capping rail and temporally fitting it.

    I thought I would make a start on the main fish hatch coaming. Firstly consulting Ted Frostโ€™s book to get material thickness, then making up the required material, I chose what I think is Kauri pine because I have plenty of it and I find it quite nice to work with.

    Going by Tedโ€™s sketch there was also an opportunity to have a go at some miniature joinery, something I donโ€™t have any real experience with, one thing I did find out is Kauri pine is not really well suited to miniature joinery.

    After several hours of enjoyable work I had the beginnings well under way and with a reject/spare front piece that nearly turned into two rejects/spare front pieces, I trimmed too much off the side of the first one and the second one ended up too short so there was nearly a third one made though after some careful consideration small packing pieces were added to the second one, of course the aft part of the coaming joints were a beautiful fit first time.

    Next I wanted to make the angled rebate where the covers locate into. To do this I dragged out the Proxxon router attachment once again, I found that I wasnโ€™t happy with the fence on this so I machined it flat on the mill.

    Next I made up a block with the correct angle to use as a guide, then stuck it to the fence with double sided sticky tape.

    I cut the rebate in several passes not wanting to try and cut it all in one pass.

    Thatโ€™s about it for the moment, more to come soon ( I hope ).

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards and Hatch Coaming.
    1 month ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks again Martin,

    Next update shouldn't be too far off, all being well.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards and Hatch Coaming.
    1 month ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    The comments are well deserved Steve.
    Already looking forward to the next update.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards and Hatch Coaming.
    1 month ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Martin,

    Thank you though I think the rank of ERA (Engine room Artificer)would be more fitting for me. ๐Ÿ˜

    Thanks for the glowing report, dropping by and commenting.


    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards and Hatch Coaming.
    1 month ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Stephen or should i say Lieutenant.

    Well i don't know where to start.

    First congratulations on a well deserved promotion.

    You sir are a true master.

    Your use of jigs and templates to make you model making more precise.
    The time and patience that you spend making these models and associated jigs is really paying of.
    Your skills and craftsmanship is something that most of us can only dream about.

    Anyway enough of that.
    You are doing a cracking job.
    Keep it up.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards and Hatch Coaming.
    1 month ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi JB,

    Well put, thanks.

    The saw in question cuts beautifully with no "back cutting".

    I believe I have a fair bit of experience with machines and may tend to do things that are not accepted these days, though I always respect machines from the little ones to the big ones.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards and Hatch Coaming.
    1 month ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Good point Ron, - also you (ie anyone) should angle your fence so that there is clearance at the back of the fence to stop the saw 'back cutting'. If it is, you will see a cross hatching effect on the cut side of the piece. This will help to cause kickback if severe enough when not using the knife. (Adjust or pack to just remove the hatching)There are times where the knife gets in the way (grooving, trenching etc) and is removed for certain jobs, but as long as there is clearance, and you are using a finger fence to push the board against the back fence it's quite safe (as long as you are experienced.) Also, don't run the blade too low, - (although sometimes you have to when cutting vinyl board or veneered board to prevent chipping).

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards and Hatch Coaming.
    1 month ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Ron,

    Thanks for your safety tip, I am not sure if the saw comes with one or not, I will check tomorrow.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards and Hatch Coaming.
    1 month ago by Ron ( Commodore)
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    Your small table saw does not have a riving knife at the tail-end of the blade. Do be careful not to pinch the wood against the blade at this area or you will experience a kickback. โ€œ The riving knife on a table saw is a vital piece of safety equipment for the tool. A riving knife is a flat piece of metal that is mounted just aft of the saw blade. When you push a workpiece through the saw blade, the riving knife is designed to keep the two cut sections of the board from closing up, thus pinching the saw blade and causing dangerous kickback. Rip cuts are especially prone to kickbacks, and it is here that the riving knife is most important.โ€

    https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/use-riving-knife-on-table-sa...
    https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/use-riving-knife-on-table-saw-3536814
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards and Hatch Coaming.
    1 month ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Mike,

    I think I felt a little lost due to the difficulty's I had had.
    You are right with the workload, I try to keep things to one job at a time, doesn't always work though.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards and Hatch Coaming.
    1 month ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Rick,
    I would agree most other peoples models tend to look better than my own creations.
    I point out those goofs in the hope someone will benefit from my mistake.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards and Hatch Coaming.
    1 month ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks JB,
    Yes I am hoping that the chips won't be noticeable once painted.
    The bevel protractor is an optional extra with the Byrnes saw, very handy when needed.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards and Hatch Coaming.
    1 month ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks for your support Gary.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards and Hatch Coaming.
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Stephen you say at the beginning of this page "I donโ€™t really know what to do next", but certainly got a move on in the rest of the page - great progress. I often get to a point when the workload seems enormous and you donโ€™t really know what to do next.
    Well the answerer I always come up with is "anything that takes your fancy" as it will be progress towards the completion of what looks as if it will be a great model and testament to your skills
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards and Hatch Coaming.
    1 month ago by Newby7 ( Vice Admiral)
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    Well done Stephen. I like that know one will know. I find when I look at someone else's work it looks so good compared to mine or so I think. I believe we are all to critical of our own work.
    SO lets keep our little miss to our selves. Keep them guessing.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards and Hatch Coaming.
    1 month ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Nice work on the joinery Stephen, hard to do in small scale as any chips are giant!

    Like the bevel / protractor on the saw, - handy looking item !

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards and Hatch Coaming.
    1 month ago by GaryLC ( Midshipman)
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    Great to see you back on here and doing what you do best, building that very impressive and complex wooden Drifter LT 100 Formidable. Keep up the good work as in onwards and upwards, and not a single mention of the word trawler in this post. Regards, Gary.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Covering Boards continued. 6.
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    More surprises and a sideways or backwards step.

    After I had worked out that I needed to alter the stern, which was a something of a shock another thing I found later is that a long time ago I had cut the stem too short!!!! How I managed to do that I have no idea, canโ€™t blame the apprentice.

    I thought I would check how fare the stanchions were by removing the covering boards and using a long piece of spruce to check them, now there is always a chance when you check things that a problem will show up and it did.
    I was expecting there was a fault as I had done a quick check earlier but I wanted to remove the covering boards to do a proper check. I ended up replacing 18 stanchions and I may still replace some more, โ€œOโ€ the joys of scratch building.

    After I had recovered from all that shock and unhappiness, without placing any progress expectations on myself, next job was to make and fit packing blocks this was a fairly simple process and went smoothly, I allowed the glue to set overnight before faring using a file and sanding blocks.

    Next day I went back out to the workshop without much of an idea on how best to remove the 1.5mm from the stern any ideas I had had were going to be quite difficult to do.

    Before that I trimmed of the three stern covering boards.

    Then remembering I have a Proxxon router attachment I dug it out and found a 1/8โ€ Carbide burr, I know that is quite a small cutter but my limited experience says that it is better to use the small easy to control cutter than a large hard to control cutter when doing this sort of free hand work.

    After carefully setting the depth, this method turned out to work wonderfully in removing most of the material followed by several hours of hand fitting and refitting. Unfortunately I had removed a bit too much depth right aft so some packing was glued in place.

    With the new packing pieces fitted the stanchions didnโ€™t sit well so I set up the sander and trimmed the bottom edge, I wanted to do this now to make sure they sit down in place.

    Next I tried refitting the covering boards I will have to trim most of them, unfortunately the two forward boards weren't going to work, even though I did try opening up the clearance between the board and stanchion there was too big a gap worst of all there wasnโ€™t enough material to trim on the inside edge, so I will need to remake those at that point I had had enough for the day, even starting to think about other jobs I could work on.

    Thatโ€™s it for the moment, thanks for having a look.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 6.
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Gary,

    Thanks mate, knowing when to walk away is very important.
    Things have returned to normal or what passes for normal in the workshop.๐Ÿ˜

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 6.
    2 months ago by GaryLC ( Midshipman)
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    Hi Stephen, and lots of support, condolences, and commiserations, and hoping things are now on an even keel, and the future is looking brighter. I have just heard this song and it is a good old-fashioned one from way back when. Kenny Rodgers and The Gambler. The message really is in the words and it makes a lot of sense.
    Know when to hold them,
    Know when to fold them,
    Know when to walk away,
    and knowing when to run.
    I shall remember this next time when things go pearshaped. Regards, Gary.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 6.
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi JB,
    Thanks for your support mate, I think a few things were getting to me, all good again on an even keel.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 6.
    2 months ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Stephen, while it's nice to get it right first time, scratch building almost always chucks you a curve ball at times, and there is usually an "ah cr-p" moment for most people. I've even resorted to a belt sander at times, to make a correction, but with a bit of packing, filling and sanding, it comes right in the end.

    As others have said, if it's starting to lose the happiness factor, it's time to have a break before you take an axe to it. Looks like a minor problem in an otherwise complicated build, and I'm sure the builders of the full sized one had a few 'salty' words to say at times. You'll sort it mate.

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 6.
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Rick,
    It is now a couple of days later and there is renewed hope once again.๐Ÿ˜

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 6.
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Gary,
    A few days later and it all seems not quite so bad, once the decision to re-make some parts was made and excepted I could move on.
    There is a bottle of Glenlivet in the cabinet but not so good for my gout. ๐Ÿ˜‰
    I think a lot of the problems are due to my inexperience, therefore a steep learning curve, hopefully I will remember the lessons. ๐Ÿ˜€

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 6.
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    You are quite right Mike,
    As my father would say it's not that you made a mistake it's how you go about fixing that mistake.
    Thanks.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 6.
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Hammer, when to walk away is a learnt thing for me.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 6.
    2 months ago by Newby7 ( Vice Admiral)
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    GLC has it right Stephen you will sort this out. Put your feet up have a wee nip of your favorite brew. Carry on tomorrow.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 6.
    2 months ago by GaryLC ( Midshipman)
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    Hi Stephen, commiserations my friend, especially when everything was looking so good and it was just a question of sorting the stanchions, knees, and coverboards at the stern. the end of that chapter was almost in sight. If you were not so far away, I would pay you a social call with a bottle of something to drown your sorrows and keep your glass full. You've had more than your fair share of problems with this somewhat complex build to date, and you have sorted them all as you will also solve this one also, I have every faith. Regards, Gary.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 6.
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Keep on smiling Stephen - "if you've never made a mistake then you've never made anything"
    Keep going you will get there in the end.
    A great job.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 6.
    2 months ago by hammer ( Lieutenant)
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    Good idea, come back to a job another day. It sorts itโ€™s self out usually.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Covering Boards continued. 5.
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    And so the process continues, rinse and repeat.

    I have tried to make the length of covering board to what I think would be possible in real life so the longest boards are around 20 feet long and from material that is not very wide the boards with a lot of curvature are shorter but wider.

    A couple of problems have arisen, the first one I noticed a few weeks ago, this being that there is a gap between covering board and stringer because of the deck camber, bit of an oversight on my behalf. I had a few ideas one was to use filler to build up this area though I think it better to use strips of wood glued down then fared with a file or sanding block.

    The other problem is how to make the tug stern this presents some challenges along with a rethink of build procedure, I originally thought I would make and fit the stanchions + covering boards then plank the bulwarks and lastly plank the deck, this has been scrapped and currently I am thinking of fitting covering boards and deck planking then fit stanchions and lastly plank the bulwarks, subject to change.

    One reason for this is the aft stanchions lean inboard considerably therefore cannot be done the same way as the rest, if I tried to I would drill a hole through the hull not a good idea, some of these stanchions also have knees that straddle the covering board and a bit of the deck planking so as in real practice according to Ted Frostโ€™s book the deck needs to be laid first.

    In Ted Frostโ€™s book he says the stern covering boards were made from 4โ€ thick Oak due to this area being subjected to large amounts of pressure at times when going up to or in port, this being the whole reason for the tug stern.

    I made a card template of the 3 last covering boards and glued them together to form one.

    Then cut my interpretation of the scarf joint that joins the 3 pieces together, I am not sure if it is right though I think this joint might help prevent the pieces moving inwards if pushed from the outside.
    I made a former to steam bend the center section on.

    At the end of the day I had cut and pinned the 3 pieces in position though there is still some material to remove, better to sneak up on the final shape.

    One thing that has been troubling me is the difference in thickness between most of the covering boards and these beefy stern boards, my main concern being how did the deck sit up against the thick boards was it flush?

    The plans show a raised stern piece.

    I was going to simply put a chamfer on to blend the two together, then while packing up for the day I looked at one of the sketches in Teds book and to my horror/surprise the thicker boards remain at deck level the extra 1.5 inches being let into the hull. Why hadn't I noticed this earlier, the only concession is nothing is glued in place yet.

    From old photos earlier in the build, ( I had forgotten what I had done ) I should be able to remove some material without compromising the strength.

    Thatโ€™s it for the moment, thanks for having a look.

    I welcome any helpful comments and suggestions.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 5.
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Gary,
    I think the reason for the vertical boarding is the stern is too tight a bend to plank horizontally.
    Yes hopefully there will be some easier jobs ahead, mind you I can probably make that complicated as well. ๐Ÿ˜
    Thanks for the comment I apricate it.
    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 5.
    2 months ago by GaryLC ( Midshipman)
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    Hi Stephen, that is interesting that the bulwarks boarding is vertical on the back end and horizontal on the sides, nothing quite like a bit of complexity is there. Mind the deck planking, superstructure and hatches hopefully will be more straight forward which will make a pleasant change. I think overall the hull is looking absolutely brilliant since the two rows of stanchions were fitted.
    Regards, Gary. (Keep up the good work, onwards and upwards.)
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 5.
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Gary,

    Thanks for your ideas.
    Bit late on the three covering boards, I have already glued some balsa blocks in that area yesterday, I will shape them later. After that I need to some how "let" part of the thicker covering boards into the stern section.
    The second picture shows this height difference.

    As for the stanchions I was thinking something similar, though I might be able to get the angle off the plan with some basic drafting, I hope.

    After looking at Ted's sketch's I think the covering boards are flush with the deck, this is different to the plan. I tend to go with Ted's version, I think it would be easier to calk the seam.

    That is very annoying misplacing Ted's book I am sure it will turn up at some point, probably when you are not looking for it.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 5.
    2 months ago by GaryLC ( Midshipman)
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    Hi Stephen, a very interesting blog with a fair few problems to solve along the way. That is one very sharp angle on the stern bulwarks in relation to the deck, and the curve on the inside of the knees makes for a very interesting shape overall. I think I would be tempted to fit the three rear cover boards on top of some thin plywood bent with the correct curvature to make a template for the rear deck, which could be planked and caulked later. Then sort out the two rear stanchions on each side of the centerline along with their knees, and with them temporary fitted I would cut a long strip of flexible ply from the rear two stanchions to the upright stanchions to calculate the necessary angles of the three stanchions required on the backend on both sides. This is just a bit of a plan I've had floating around in my head for the last few days, along with other rubbish. Maybe I haven't explained this too clearly but hopefully you can see where I am coming from. Just one question which is, is the top of the deck planking flush with the top of the coverboards? Regards, Gary. PS. My Tree to Sea book by Ted Frost has disappeared into thin air, can't find it any where, extremely annoying.
    Regards Gary.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 5.
    2 months ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Must admit Stephen, if you get something a bit clever to work, it is satisfying๐Ÿ˜

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 5.
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi JB,
    Thanks, In a sense I am amazed at how much time this project has taken up.๐Ÿ™„
    I would probably say in some ways I am winging to a degree on the construction side, going down different rabbet holes along the way, more about the journey I guess.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 5.
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Rick,
    Thanks for having a look, I am glad you enjoy my photos and words.
    I will ponder this problem I don't want to dive in and stuff it up.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 5.
    2 months ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Amazed at the amount of thought and work going into this Stephen. Would normally require very elaborate and complicated instructions to get this far, as scaling up creates many problems with dimensions (as I have recently found out)

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 5.
    2 months ago by Newby7 ( Vice Admiral)
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    Wonderful work Stephen. I enjoy your pictures and write up on the build. I'm sure you will sort the concern you have.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ“ Covering Boards continued. 4.
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Covering boards and Stanchions continued, I am generally very happy with the way the covering boards and stanchions are going, though not without some problems.

    I ended up using the mill to drill a hole in each stanchion allowing some easy hole position adjustment.
    I put some double sided tape onto a bit of scrap to help with positioning the stanchion in the vice, this made the whole putting a stanchion in the vice an easy task.

    After the success of the first batch of covering board and stanchions I guess I got a bit excited and ripped into the 2nd batch and somehow the hole positions went a bit haywire, what I mean is the distance from the top strake to the hole centre was changing, I am able to get around this by altering the stanchion hole position, easily done because I am drilling the holes in my mill, still itโ€™s not ideal.


    The next day that I went out to my workshop I discovered it is easy to misinterpret what my little measuring jig is saying this is due to itโ€™s short legs that can rock easily, so with the benefit of hindsight I should have waited to install the โ€œBinn Ironsโ€ then the jig legs could have been longer reducing any tendency to rock, โ€œOโ€ well live and learn.

    I proceeded with a lot more caution for the 3rd covering board batch.
    I made up some custom sanding blocks for finishing the notches in the covering boards. Using double sided sticky tape (in my opinion an indispensable thing to have in any workshop) to stick some sandpaper to a block of wood.

    Thanks for having a look.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 4.
    2 months ago by GaryLC ( Midshipman)
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    Very true that comment, and I think that should read the most difficult bordering on an almost impossible method of completing each task. Mind the end result is always worth the effort and thought that went into it. At the end of the day (one day) when your Drifter is complete it will be aptly named for the trials and tribulations in its building, FORMIDABLE in every way.
    Regards, Gary.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 4.
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Hammer,
    Thanks for your comment.
    If there is one thing I am good at it is coming up with a more difficult way of doing something.๐Ÿ˜

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 4.
    2 months ago by hammer ( Lieutenant)
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    I must say you method called for extreme accurate work. Which you can do. For lessers mortals cheat.
    In 4 jaw turn a spigot on stanchions. Cut & fix cover board. With a jig mark centre of stanchions + thickness of planks. Drill holes to fit spigots. Glue rail to tops.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 4.
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Gary,

    Funny I was thinking the same thing "soldiers standing at attention".

    Not quite out of the woods yet, as the stanchions go further aft things get a little tricky for the tug sterned bit, then after all the stanchions are done will be time for the capping rail and bulwarks planking.
    So still a fair way to go before deck planking will start.

    Yes the years are shooting past.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 4.
    2 months ago by GaryLC ( Midshipman)
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    Hi Stephen,
    Complex and repetitive but definitely worth the effort, like two rows of little soldiers standing on parade, and only the sharp end to finish it off. Will the next job be the decking planks with the realistic caulking? I think there is definitely a relationship between time and age, as the older I get the faster the time seems to slip away, mind maybe you are too young to notice this as yet.
    Regards, Gary.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 4.
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Yeah we'll see how that pans out Rick, it might mean a longer lockdown.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 4.
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks JB,
    You are quite right it is time consuming and trying at times.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 4.
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Gary,
    Thanks for your encouragement, though there is a lot of repeating of a process going on.

    Yes some pretty ugly scenes in Melbourne on the weekend.

    The only ugly thing happening at my place was the time going too fast.๐Ÿ˜Š

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 4.
    2 months ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Great work as usual Steve, looks brilliant ๐Ÿ‘ Obviously very time consuming, but will definitely be a stunning model once finished !

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 4.
    2 months ago by Newby7 ( Vice Admiral)
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    I'm sure the virus does care for protests as people are gathered together in a group easy to be spread.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Boards continued. 4.
    2 months ago by GaryLC ( Midshipman)
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    Complicated and complex, but well worth all the effort as it is looking really great, as always a fantastic job and a full TEN on the realistic scale. (Time used to provide something positive as opposed to Melbourne protest rallies against lockdown.)
    Regards, Gary.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Covering Board continued. 3.
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Both Knightheads temporally fitted.

    Drilling pin holes for Stanchions, I was having trouble keeping the drill from not moving the jig when I turned it on, this problem was reduced by using a foot switch instead of the switch on the drill.

    The first of the Stanchions and Knightheads temporally fitted, at this point I am very happy with progress, using the jigs I have made.

    I have roughed out the covering board, using a scroll saw.

    Fitting the covering board.

    I made a filler piece to give the first two covering boards and deck planks somewhere to rest on.

    So far so good. ๐Ÿ˜€
    Thanks for having a look.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Board continued. 3.
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Gary,

    Yes little bit by little bit.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Board continued. 3.
    2 months ago by GaryLC ( Midshipman)
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    Great stuff, love the sheer complexity of it all, especially the stanchions standing there like soldiers on parade. The Knightheads I'm guessing are the thick stanchions, not very complimentary for our Knights of old. Always good to see a little progress as every little helps towards that magic day. Regards, Gary.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Covering Board continued. 2.
    3 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Making the jig, making the steel bush first.

    Using some pine I had lying around, trouble was when I pushed the steel bush into it the end broke out, so I made another one out of plywood.

    With the jig temporarily secured using double sided tape and using the โ€œdeck planking jigโ€ to find the angle I used an edge finder to fix my position.

    Photos show the original jig.
    Then centre drilled.
    Then spot faced.
    Finally drilled.
    I drilled and tapped M4 for an adjusting screw and lock nut.

    Then the jig in use.
    Transferred the pin locations then drilled for the first Knights head.

    For the โ€œgrainingโ€ I have used Rustins Walnut stain I only had the Walnut and Red Mahogany, Rustins are my preferred brand.

    I think the Walnut looks good it shows the grain nicely with the Huon Pine.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Covering Board continued.
    3 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Not much progress, a bit more work on the first covering board.
    I am viewing this first board as a learning experience.

    Trimming the board to the center line.

    Then temporarily pinning in place with .7mm brass wire.

    I made a couple of very simple jigs to show where the outer edge of the stanchions will sit and help keep the stanchion parallel to the outer hull shape.

    Before I go further I will make a jig for drilling into the upper hull.

    Thanks for having a look.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Board continued.
    3 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Gary,

    Sorry I didn't word that very well, I am happy with the progress, the opening sentence referred more to a short update instead of quite a lengthy update, only trouble is I was the only one who knew that.
    Thank you for your confidence, and continuing support.
    It might be a while before any deck planks are laid.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Board continued.
    3 months ago by stevedownunder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Mike,

    Great idea thanks, when we are allowed to go to the shops again I will get some.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Board continued.
    3 months ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Stephen with ref to your use of 0.7mm wire as pins/nails. I use solid brass sequin pins these are 0.65mm x 20mm but you can get shorter they are cheap and uniform in size the heads can be removed during use.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164260473619?chn=ps&norover=1&mke...
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164260473619?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=164260473619&targetid=1280824612978&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9046318&poi=&campaignid=12125451065&mkgroupid=122721231597&rlsatarget=pla-1280824612978&abcId=9300480&merchantid=10132734&gclid=Cj0KCQjwu7OIBhCsARIsALxCUaOZfSiSrwtMaPD8Qdu0a9wKqLzafX42PO835A71Wv5BqFzVWcPASuUaAvGaEALw_wcB
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Covering Board continued.
    3 months ago by GaryLC ( Midshipman)
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    Not to worry progress is progress how ever slow it may be, this has a lot to do with the fact you always opt for the more complex option. Us followers have every confidence and appreciate you will get there in the end, we are standing by with bated breath and willing you on. Onwards and upwards, personally can't wait to see some decking planks with realistic caulking. Regards, Gary.
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