Hi JockScott.

Just to reassure you, I've started working on the case again.

Hi Alessandro looking forward to the result.

Hi JockScott, and cheers to all modelers.

I started working again, corrected some mistakes I was making and in a few days I will give you the results.

Hi JockScott, there are few that have big bathtubs for your ship or private pools, hahahahaha.

You can buy a small inflatable paddling pool, but if it's just for this reason it's a waste of money.

Interesting method for the bow. I've never used it.
I do everything with strips, never used the bread and butter method, but I'm self-dictated.

I greatly admire those who, like you, master more than one construction method.

No worries about if you can't do it right away. There is no rush.
Construction was quite simple. Straight Bottom plate, frames throughout and stern and bow bread and butter.
It won't see water till next year as the model is 1.74mtrs long and my bathtub is not big enough.

Hi JockScott.

I'm completing the table with the information you gave me. The numbers didn't add up, now I've deciphered the numbers I wasn't reading with the new photo.

However, I will send you all the tables and drawings of Rhinoceros with the measurements so you too can check if I have made mistakes.
We are almost at the end now.
To be clear, here are three images of what I'm doing.

I don't know if I'll be able to use Rhinoceros in these five days because I have to go away for work, it's one thing to write messages with my cell phone, I can do that anywhere, it's another thing to draw on the PC. But I don't think you're in a hurry.

I wanted the thicknesses of the frames and the spaces between the frames because I always prefer to take measurements directly on the model itself. Even for electrical matters I don't just rely on the data provided but I do direct tests where I can.
But in this regard now a doubt arises in my mind, perhaps I have taken a construction method as obvious.
A question out of pure curiosity because it has nothing to do with the calculations we are doing: How did you make the hull?
Could you send me a photo showing the inside of the hull?
I was probably off track.

Conclusions.
1. Prism method: done.
2. Multiplication method: we are almost completing it, it is almost finished.
3. Method with Rhinoceros: If you want me to try to draw the surface of the hull entirely on the PC, I need at least the bow and the measurements on it.

Then it will be fun and interesting to compare the results of the three methods with the result of the water test. The only one to tell us the absolute truth.

In theory, method two should be more precise than number one and method three more precise than number two.

I am not sure what it is you still need as I have posted everything you need to have.
1. frame drawings. You may have trouble reading frame numbers on the drawing. I have hand written the number hopefully now easier to identify on another photo
2. the frame distance diagram. They look very clear to me and are the original measurements from the plan converted to 1:150 (2nd column)
3. The measurements between frames are always centre on centre and therefore there is no thickness to consider.
Hope this helps

Hi JockScott.

These measurements are not useful to me because I have no references, furthermore I cannot read many numbers on the photo of the sections (even by enlarging the image).

Please take measurements from section to section with a ruler or caliper (whichever you prefer) directly on your model if you cannot do so on your project.

Please fill in this table. It's very easy. Do it without any rush when you have time.

Distance between section 1 and 2 = mm _______
Distance between section 2 and 3 = mm _______
Distance between section 3 and 4 = mm _______
Distance between section 4 and 5 = mm _______
Distance between section 5 and 6 = mm _______
...
Distance between section 20 and 21 = mm _______

single frame thickness = _________

I'm attaching an image to help you understand what I mean and what I need.

I ask you for this small effort because I could take all the measurements in the table and, only after a long work, realize an error. Instead, with the measures taken directly by you, we won't be able to make mistakes and we will still have further feedback.

If it helps you, I post another picture of the schedule for the frame distances. "0" is the rudder shaft. Distances are back (-) to stern and forward to bow. Hope this helps.

Hi JockScott.

I don't understood the whole post well.

The photo of the stern alone, without the measurements printed on it, is not useful to me.

In reference to the distances between the sections, could you explain them, please?

I mean, for example:

Distance between sections 1 and 2 = ? mm

Distance between sections 2 and 3 = ? mm

Distance between sections 3 and 4 = ? mm

Etc. etc.

Please write them all down, there are only 20 anyway.