Hi Andy, congratulations on the excellent work done so far; The idea of ​​putting an auxiliary engine is a great idea.
Not only will it be useful for the absence of wind but also to facilitate turns if the rudder is not large enough.

Are you sure the motor is powerful enough for the propeller you put in?
I don't want to be wrong but it seems a little small to me.

Furthermore (this is not a criticism but a suggestion) perhaps you should put a fixed joint (not cardan).
This way you can align the engine perfectly before locking it onto the supports.
Then (once you have found the perfect alignment) you can also choose to use another type of joint.
The perfect alignment will reduce vibrations, noise and consumption.

I wrote you my opinion because you still have time to decide. I hope I explained myself.

Decided to add a motor, as auxiliary power, have no experience of such things but have bought a speed controller as well. Its only for when the wind totally disappears and there's also one on the "real boat".

The plan is to have an additional/detachable keel, which will be bolted through the brass tube. Still thinking about the linkage for the rudder but will get it fitted before any planking is added. However, there is a slot in the underside of the rudder, so this can be extended while sailing, which should increase its control.

After some distractions - have now made a start actually making the barge. The next stage is some "fine tweaking" of the frames, so there is a nice smooth line along the chine and gunwale. Its not until you get the basic frames in place, do actually realise how tight the bow is curved. Have tried some "thin" wood/planks as a test and things to seem achievable.

However, some decisions are needed about the rudder, this will need a removable piece to be used while sailing, which is quite easy to achieve but its the lower rudder bearing (pintle) that needs some thinking about. There is length of brass, 1/2 inch wide, that will form the bottom of the keel. This will add some weight low down and keep the wooden keel straight, as well as protected. It will form part of the lower rudder bearing.

Some progress :
Obtained a copy of the "Dutch Yacht" plans, having scanned these, it was possible to "double" the size, so the planned model should be 37 inches long and 12 inches beam. The article in the 1975 issue of model boat is quite short but interesting, as is a book "The Dutch Barge" - more historical but does provide some information.

Just need to start - what could go wrong ?

By the way John Pottinger is still around and always pleased to hear from anyone building from his drawings. I think he was on Model Boat mayhem last time I heard.
Roy

Thanks
I’d had a look at the Thames barge kit, Veronica, by Sarik.

Have ordered the drawings MM1203, £15 with postage, so worth a look. A model of twice the suggested size, should be ok. I’ll have to learn how to scale up!

There’s even some copies of the June75 magazine on eBay !

A quick check of Sarik plans reveals MM1203 line drawings of a Dutch barge by John Pottinger and featured in Model Boats magazine June 1975. Plan is for a 18.5 inch hull but easily scaled up by a print shop.
Roy

Hi all, there is not a single straight line on a Dutch barge! Green Dragon has been mentioned and quite a long while back, maybe 30 years I saw a very large model of this on exhibition, about 6 feet long. Built by Dave Taylor who also founded the Scale Sail Association. I am afraid that is long gone now as it died with Dave, he smoked too much and it got him early on in life, but I have all the association newsletters still.

Most model Thames barges sailing in competition are to half inch to the foot scale which gives a hull about 48 inches long. Yes you do need a sailing keel and this makes them very heavy.
The barge boards do not give enough effect to prevent leeway but can easily be made to operate.
I first saw this about 60 years ago with a Mercury switch controlling the movement. When tilted to one side allowed that Lee board to lower. As they have either one or the other down the switch decided which one. But with RC a lot easier to control now.

The leading light in AMBO some years ago was Richard Chesney, we first met when we were queuing to receve medals at the old Model Engineering exhibition about 1990. He produced a very nice booklet on everything you need to know about making model sailing barges.
I have a copy it is complete but maybe a little dated now. I am happy to pass this on to someone provided they will make the contents available to all interested.

Duplex Craft the fore runner of HFM plastic model kits, best known for the small yachts 575 and 590, produced a smaller 30 inch hull and barge boards of the barge Venta, plans for this are available from Sarik. It makes up into a nice model.

I have seen the Billing kit William Everard sail but it is a bit small. The full size Will Everard does sailing excursions in the Thames and around the East coast of England. It had to lose the Everard family name and the new owners retained the name 'Will'

I was on one such trip on the Thames a few years ago with my daughter and took the wheel for nearly half an hour coming back from the Thames Barrier. Very slow to react so need your wits about you.
There is much written about Thames barges and many were saved and there is nothing like seeing one in full sail in a good wind.

regards
Roy

Thanks Hermank - that's very helpful
much appreciated

Alessandro amigo italiano
You are an early bird 😂