Andy,

What a magnificent model—she looks absolutely great and very elegant out on the water.

All your effort has really paid off; she sails beautifully.

A real pleasure to see.
😎

Looks lovely Andy! You certainly deserve a treat and a 🍺

Beautiful photos Andy!

3rd sail

Sailed very well without the rudder extension - no leaks and no caught sheets

Success !

Made a few small changes, minor rigging, added some ballast to the stern and shortened the mast, lowering the take of point of the jib. Looks better and sails fine. However, still have a small leak via the prop shaft, so that does need some thinking about for a solution.

Beautiful photos and videos, excellent navigation, Andy.
A complete success, I'd say. Congratulations.

Took the boat for a first sail today. This has been delayed as the local weather has been so windy. Sailed better than expected - a couple of small issues and a small leak - which I think is the prop shaft, so will need to explore that. However, its more likely to be the join between the cockpit and deck edge, as the cockpit is removable.

This is a link to a YouTube video. Trying to hold the phone and control the boat with three servos was a bit of a challenge - but hopefully shows the general idea.

thanks Ronald

there are some beautiful examples of restored and new boats afloat.

I came across this video on YouTube today, just type in the title in the search box of YouTube.

I’d previously built a model of a Bristol Pilot Cutter without an additional keel, but the hull shape was very different.

The Dutch barge hull is basically flat bottomed. I’ve struggled to find any useful info about other similar models. The only guidance came from looking a models of Thames barges, which have an additional keel, so that was the reason to make one. The keel is easy to remove as is the lead weight, the idea is that it is easy to make another of different design if necessary.

Hi Andy, I wasn't sure I remembered correctly, so I decided to reread the previous messages.
I remembered you tried to stabilize the boat without using the protruding fin.
Is this an alternative (a plan B) or have you already noticed that it doesn't have enough capacity to right itself? Is that why you have to use the ballast under the fin?
In any case, you did a great job, but I'm very interested and fascinated by the aspects related to stability and the general physics of ships.

The idea is to leave the lead weight removable until after a few sails, to ensure its correct. Adjustments can then be made.

As for the saucepan - others are available - the one in the photo hadn’t been used for years and I’d cast lead in it previously.

Hi Andy great pictures, great shame there are no more casseroles for you then!😀😀
Roy

Andy

I like the aerodynamic approach to the fin. Is it filled with ballast beads of lead sheet? The removable and interchangeable ballast bulbs are very useful to have when sailing with lighter winds.

I'm sure those with a performance mindset will not be impressed but it's functional and will certainly be fine for first sail. The lead is only bolted in place, so can be "modified" if required. There is one minor addition needed to the rigging and then its looking for a "gentle wind" for a maidan voyage.

Made some progress and the hull etc and fittings are just about done. The last real task was to cast some lead - just a small amount. This is never going to be a "heavy weather" model. The lead will need some cleaning up and a coat of paint.

I warmed the saucepan and lead up on the kitchen cooker, before going outside for a final warm and pour.

Sorry, I copied the translated text twice instead of editing the errors.

I've seen these differences even in the models you describe as museum-quality.
Even in the models you describe as museum-quality, I've seen these differences.
Even in highly detailed models, there are those who choose clarity (every piece is unique, mirror-clean, new, impeccable) and those who expertly add dirt, rust, and wear (but it's not carelessness, imprecision, or incompetence; it's all intentional and deliberate).
I'm fascinated by both, and I'm happy there are so many differences in building methods.
Ultimately, Andy, we are builders, but also observers and admirers.
We're truly curious and passionate about the work of others when it comes to scale modeling.

I suppose there other way of looking at it is, display models and sailing models. There are a small number of people capable of building museum quality models that actually sail, while the rest of us compromise. I don’t have the patience to build to museum standards, so it therefore has to be a simplified sailing model.

Everyone has their own style when building scale models.
There are those who manage to give their naval models a lived-in, used, and sometimes worn look, and those who create clean, sharp, and immaculate ones.
I like both styles and greatly appreciate the differences; everyone has their own touch.
Your model, Andy, belongs to the second category of models I described; it's precise and tidy, even inside—my compliments.
I don't think those in the second category (as long as they're masterfully crafted, as in this case) are any less realistic than those in the first. They simply capture the moment they leave the shipyard, with fresh paint, free of scratches and other signs of wear.
Sure, it's a moment that doesn't last long, but it's still there.

Good luck with your latest additions and your first sailing.

Have made the sails, fitted and everything seems to work OK. There are some details to be added - winches on cockpit sides, a few more bits of rigging etc. The main challenge is to cast the lead and fit the keel - then a trial sail !

A satisfactory test Andy, very important, the model performs very well in the water.

Have made a final float test - with all the RC equipment on board. Using some pieces of metal, it was possible to check how much weight was needed to load the boat down to the water line. This weight will be made by casting some lead shot and fixed to the end of the "false" keel.

That's a fine and interesting model Andy. particularly interesting for me as it has some general similarities to my Fairey Fisherman build and that is powered by motor and sail.

Chris

Nice work Andy,

That is a lovely looking model that has great presence and it will look really good on the water.

Bob.

Hi Andy, a beautiful model is coming out. I also did some pre-assembly with white cardboard sails.
Unfortunately, after cutting (although precise), sewing the inside seams and edges, the actual sails didn't look perfectly identical due to the curvature that inevitably occurs with natural fabrics like cotton.

Agreed all around.

Looks great and using that heavy fishing cord is super.

Hi Andy lovely job. I especially like that laminated gaff spar.

Doug I echo what you said about Nerys, she 'liked' one of my posts once, it made my day!
Roy

Simply exquisite Andy👍 A 'proper job'.
Our dear departed Fleet Admiral Nerys would have been ecstatic!
Looking forward to the Sea Trials🤓
KUTGW
Doug😎

The rigging is made from fishing line. It’s sold as trace wire, used for sea and pike fishing, 50lb. It’s supplied with small tube crimps and I then used a piece of heat shrink to cover these.

Beautiful piece of work Andy - did you get the stainless rigging made, or have you the facilities yourself?

Have completed the rigging and made some "paper" sails, as templates. Next step will be some "real" sails and then checking the operation of all the servos - the final task will be a float text and to consider how much lead will be needed - and there will be all those small details and finishing touches - which are forgotten until the end!

Made a little more progress. The prop shaft has been fitted and works, even had a quick go in the bath.

The sail and rudder servos have also been installed, seem to work ok. The next stage will be the standing rigging, before making some paper templates for the sails.

I reviewed your profile back to December of 2021 when you began building Katie with just a preformed hull and minimal sheets of plans.

Since 2021, you have been building a number of vessels including several of Gary Webb designs and making an alternate version of Emma.

You’ve been busy making sails to fit these models too.

All this to say, the Dutch model isn’t your first “ Kick at the can”. You have experience with making sailing models, creating plans and fitting out a model sailboat.

I was thinking you launched into creating a difficult Dutch hull design as though it was your first sailing model. Well, I am wrong, and apologize to you. I look forward to seeing your experience develop into something of beauty on the water.

With Respect,

Ron Bauer

I think that is a good 1203 plan by Jim Pottinger. He does scale drawings not ones with the hull adjusted to sail.
So doubling up should work well on the water and be accurate as well.
Roy

The drawings are from Sarik
Dutch Yacht MM1203 Static Sail Plan
However, these are for a model that is 18.5 inches long. So I got the drawings scanned and then doubled the size on the computer before printing them out again.

The drawings are based on the Vollenhovense Bol design - a quick search will show many examples.

I've kept a blog, which shows more photos.

https://building-katie.blogspot.com/

See the models by this Dutch hobbyist.
Scheepsmodel-bouw-en-restauratie

I found Three places to get plans.

Sarik

https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/dutch-yacht-mm1203-static-sail-plan/

Vintage Model Plans
https://www.vintagemodelplans.com/products/full-size-printed-plan-semi-scale-1-21-dutch-yacht-pwr-electric-and-sail-suitable-for-radio-control

New. Best Ship Models
https://new.bestshipmodels.com/product/yacht-dutch-xviic-ship-model-plans/

Is this a Lemsteraak sailing barge?
Or
Grundel 9.5 Classic style cruiser

One of the RC channels will control a motor. The keel was made in two pieces, so a grove could be cut, so once the two halves were glued together there was a channel so the prop shaft can be fitted.

The system works when tested on the “bench”. How effective it will be in propelling the boat along is yet to be seen. The hull shape is hardly “streamlined” and making the hull has had its challenges!

Is there a stuffing box in there? I see a hole where it should be.

Very beautiful, I'm curious to see it in the water.

Beautiful work Andy - hope she sails as well as she looks.

Have been distracted again but now returned to finishing off the Dutch barge. The hull is now painted and varnished, have also made the spars - the next step is to add the fittings and get the sails fitted.

Will then add the RC equipment, before doing a float test, to find out how much lead is needed to pull it down to the water line.

Hi again carrying on with the model railway scales 3 1/2 inch scale is 1 : 16 and the next size up is 5 inch 1 :11. Then there are the ground level track sizes of 7 1/4 inches which is 1 eighth scale.
These are track width measurements and usually associated with locomotives you can ride behind.
Your local park may have a ride on railway at 10 1/4 gauge, we have one in Cassiobury Park Watford.

Getting to 15 inch wide track you are into public railways. For example the Romney Hythe and Dymchurch Railway. It is on the south coast of UK and during WW2 they had a genuine armoured train with guns manned by the army.
Have a look on the Internet for this there are some lovely scale locos in use.

I belong to a club that has a quite long ground level track system and we are open to the public during the summer and attract around 150 or more visitors on a Sunday afternoon.
I no longer drive a steam engine (balance problems) but it was a treat to drive a very large loco on 7 1/4 gauge track a few years ago. The cylinders were each a bit bigger than a Coke can, 100+ pounds steam pressure, enormous power!
I will dig out my Avatar full photo, I am wearing my engine driver's hat!

Roy

Roy is right about using model railway parts. The handrail knobs are from a model engineering supplier and are intended for a 5 inch gauge loco, the actual handrail is 2mm dia. stainless steel, which just about fits the aprox. 1:10 scale that I'm working to.

As for painting, there is an initial two coats of thinned varnish and then a spray coat of a "filler primer" from Halfords. A fine modelling filler/putty is used to fill small imperfections, before rubbing down with some wet n dry. This process was repeated on two more occasions. The top coats will be completed using a spray paint from B&Q, aimed at furniture restoration. There are a selection of colours and the white is available in gloss, satin and matt finishes. The other option is car spray but tends to be glossy finish.

The red oxide, below the waterline, is a red primer from Halfords.

Hi Ronald a lot of on-line suppliers have most scales. Probably for model boats HO is 1:87 and is the smallest. 1:76, is OO scale, O is 1:43 very common items including people. G 1 varies a bit but is 1:32 generally.
These are the scales where parts are available there are smaller scales but then handrails would be too small to be separate items.

There are various scales for dolls house fittings which can yield some parts.
Model aircraft parts have excellent very strong plastic aileron hinges which I use for yacht goose necks.

Hope this helps,
Roy

Andy your hull was excellently executed.
I don't see any imperfections, I would like to know how to paint like you.
One day I'll have to learn to go through a few coats of primer first.

Roy you have a good source of suppliers, I never knew about using R/R parts for model boat fittings.

Is it a particular scale?

Hi Andy I see you used metal handrail supports. You can get very nice and cheap ones from model railway suppliers the different gauges suiting most of our scales.
They are steam outline loco handrail supports.
Roy

Have used spray paints for the hull. However, varnish does come from a tin but tend decant some into a jam jar, which means that opening the tin is kept to a minimum, especially if it is being used on a daily basis. The varnish in the jam jar is thinned 50/50 with white sprit.