Yes I will be blogging what I do, the only brief mods I’ve done so far is to make the internals get at-able. I took her to the pond on wed to see how she sails “ as is” but on arriving I found I’d forgot the battery!!. So had to sit and look at her pond side whilst I sailed my Tyne. But there’s always next week. At the moment I’m in the process of making 2 danforth anchors out of some sheet brass I had in my bit box. I also intend to swap from NiMh to lipo2s battery

Great to see another Inga going back to the water any chance of keeping us up to date with your mods please beautiful yacht looks immaculate peter l 3 👍👍👍👍😊

Roy, thank you for teaching me something new. This is one of the great things about this site and those that participate. Learn something new everyday. Now if I can only remember the tricks and ideas when I need them, 😊
Len

Thanks for the detailed description Roy.
Hitherto I have always sewn my sail seams on a machine but I will give your method a try and let you know which I think is easier, and which produces the better result. 😉

Hi, I have mentioned it before but I use Wunda-web, which is fine web of glue which you iron on.
Basics:- Wash and dry material to get it to shrink if necessary. Then iron and spray with starch where the sail is to be traced out.

With a pencil mark out sail area, putting weft (non-stretch) of material on longest edge of sail. Allow 2 widths of seem around the actual sail measurements.
Cut out sail around outer seam.

Using a metal straight edge fold one seam over the metal edge and iron and then another inside that one to get a sharp edge.

Fold one over, then over again, if satisfied with shape undo the seams and run a length of Wund-web inside the seam. Do one edge at a time, careful with the corners, they need sharp scissors to cut off spare material. With a medium hot iron go over the seams and the glue will melt and hold the seam in place.

If fitting eyelets (as small as possible, Nylet have them) I put a tiny amount of super glue in the position and then drill a hole and push the eyelt in place and hammer the securing washer on the other side to form a rivet.

If you need 'ropes' through the seams then put the string in place before the ironing, stretch it tight securing the ends with weights or sticky tape. Otherwise it will go all over the place.

Sails made like this have lasted me over 20 years and show no signs of fraying or failing.
good luck if you use the above,
Roy

Sewing is a skill I have never managed to acquire. I have a small machine which allegedly is up to the job, but machine sewing is a black art to me. Having consulted proficient machinists it is all about the tension - well trust me there is plenty of that when I am required to sew anything.
At some stage I am planning to remake a set of cotton sails for an old J class model that was afflicted by mildew over the very damp winter - any tips appreciated.

Hi Rogal you have made a nice job of splitting the rear cabin to allow the mast to stay rigged.
Good idea in having a stowed sail on the main boom. If you want to make it interesting look up 'Lazy Jacks' on the Internet. This is a series of ropes that are draped onto both sides of the sail to attach to the sail boom, to give more control to the sail especially when putting in a reef. My son has them on his full size yacht and they are in blue to distinguish them from running rigging.

Modern yachts or ones that have had the jib replaced usually have roller reefing of the jib so that it is tightly wrapped around the fore stay with a cotton reel style mechanism at the base to allow it to revolve. Two ropes would drape from it at the clew of the jib and be brought to both sides of the yacht and each wound around a hand winch.

With the mast having a luff groove may I suggest you make a test sail of say a foot in length to see if the sail comes out of the luff gap easily. Many years ago I made a similar mast and the sail material I used was a bit thick. This meant that the sail formed a curved bend as it came out of the slot. Looked awful and did not work as a sail either.

All the best
Roy

Hi Rogal, thanks for the explanation, now I understand perfectly and I agree with you.
Ah! by the way, with the sails of the previous IngaIV you did a magnificent job.

Hello everyone, AlessandroSP. The reason I intend to make new sails, is, the type fitted at the moment are a plastic material and I prefer “cambric cotton” which look better for this type of sailing ketch. My 1st IngaIV I made the sails having never sewn before and had never had a sail boat before either. I was completely a novice and to some extent still am. I have intended to rework the sails to give a slightly more area, and a little more roach to the main sail plus add roach to the booms as my 1st sails had none. Having plenty of material left over I shall make two sets which I feel will improve both yachts. I have also been toying with the idea of making a set of stowed sails and using the motor driven yacht for our steering competitions. This would look like the real thing then when entering port. I don’t have a photo of Inga with sails stowed but the enclosed photo give some idea what I intend to achieve. The other photos show the plastic sails against the set I made up.

Hi everyone, Roycv, I think this is the first time I’ve actually viewed a photo of your Inga IV, and I must say I like the cabin woodwork, the lighter graining is mellow and very attractive, I am also surprised that you still have a one piece cabin, as you say it’s an pain removing the mizzen mast and rigging to open the hull up. A definite original design flaw!. As my 1st Inga didn’t have a rear cabin top when I acquired her I made a point of building the cabin in two halves. Which means I don’t have to derig her, not even when I go to the pond as I’m fortunate to have suv with a tailgate big enough to accommodate her in fully rigged state. Now my new acquisition has a one piece cabin so I’ve just de rigged her mizzen mast and with a fine blade in the band saw cut the cabin into two sections across the beam. Then I cut the rear cabin in two, forward and aft along the centre line. Put her all back together and rigged her up. All I have to do now is tidy the joints up, job done access to the hull without derigging.