Ra IngaIV mk2Refurb

Started by Rogal118
15 replies 103 likes Last activity: 2 years ago
#16

Ra IngaIV mk2Refurb

Yes I will be blogging what I do, the only brief mods I’ve done so far is to make the internals get at-able. I took her to the pond on wed to see how she sails “ as is” but on arriving I found I’d forgot the battery!!. So had to sit and look at her pond side whilst I sailed my Tyne. But there’s always next week. At the moment I’m in the process of making 2 danforth anchors out of some sheet brass I had in my bit box. I also intend to swap from NiMh to lipo2s battery
Roger
Liked by Len1 and hermank and
#15

Ra IngaIV mk2Refurb

Great to see another Inga going back to the water any chance of keeping us up to date with your mods please beautiful yacht looks immaculate peter l 3 👍👍👍👍😊
Liked by Len1 and Peejay and
#14

Ra IngaIV mk2Refurb

Roy, thank you for teaching me something new. This is one of the great things about this site and those that participate. Learn something new everyday. Now if I can only remember the tricks and ideas when I need them, 😊
Len
LEN1
Liked by Peejay and AlessandroSPQR and
#13

Ra IngaIV mk2Refurb

Thanks for the detailed description Roy.
Hitherto I have always sewn my sail seams on a machine but I will give your method a try and let you know which I think is easier, and which produces the better result. 😉
Liked by ChrisG and Peejay and
#12

Ra IngaIV mk2Refurb

Hi, I have mentioned it before but I use Wunda-web, which is fine web of glue which you iron on.
Basics:- Wash and dry material to get it to shrink if necessary. Then iron and spray with starch where the sail is to be traced out.

With a pencil mark out sail area, putting weft (non-stretch) of material on longest edge of sail. Allow 2 widths of seem around the actual sail measurements.
Cut out sail around outer seam.

Using a metal straight edge fold one seam over the metal edge and iron and then another inside that one to get a sharp edge.

Fold one over, then over again, if satisfied with shape undo the seams and run a length of Wund-web inside the seam. Do one edge at a time, careful with the corners, they need sharp scissors to cut off spare material. With a medium hot iron go over the seams and the glue will melt and hold the seam in place.

If fitting eyelets (as small as possible, Nylet have them) I put a tiny amount of super glue in the position and then drill a hole and push the eyelt in place and hammer the securing washer on the other side to form a rivet.

If you need 'ropes' through the seams then put the string in place before the ironing, stretch it tight securing the ends with weights or sticky tape. Otherwise it will go all over the place.

Sails made like this have lasted me over 20 years and show no signs of fraying or failing.
good luck if you use the above,
Roy
Liked by ChrisG and Peejay and
#11

Ra IngaIV mk2Refurb

Sewing is a skill I have never managed to acquire. I have a small machine which allegedly is up to the job, but machine sewing is a black art to me. Having consulted proficient machinists it is all about the tension - well trust me there is plenty of that when I am required to sew anything.
At some stage I am planning to remake a set of cotton sails for an old J class model that was afflicted by mildew over the very damp winter - any tips appreciated.
Liked by ChrisG and Peejay and
#10

Ra IngaIV mk2Refurb

Hi Rogal you have made a nice job of splitting the rear cabin to allow the mast to stay rigged.
Good idea in having a stowed sail on the main boom. If you want to make it interesting look up 'Lazy Jacks' on the Internet. This is a series of ropes that are draped onto both sides of the sail to attach to the sail boom, to give more control to the sail especially when putting in a reef. My son has them on his full size yacht and they are in blue to distinguish them from running rigging.

Modern yachts or ones that have had the jib replaced usually have roller reefing of the jib so that it is tightly wrapped around the fore stay with a cotton reel style mechanism at the base to allow it to revolve. Two ropes would drape from it at the clew of the jib and be brought to both sides of the yacht and each wound around a hand winch.

With the mast having a luff groove may I suggest you make a test sail of say a foot in length to see if the sail comes out of the luff gap easily. Many years ago I made a similar mast and the sail material I used was a bit thick. This meant that the sail formed a curved bend as it came out of the slot. Looked awful and did not work as a sail either.

All the best
Roy
Liked by ChrisG and Peejay and
#9

Ra IngaIV mk2Refurb

Hi Rogal, thanks for the explanation, now I understand perfectly and I agree with you.
Ah! by the way, with the sails of the previous IngaIV you did a magnificent job.
Liked by Peejay and Razor1955 and
#8

Ra IngaIV mk2Refurb

Hello everyone, AlessandroSP. The reason I intend to make new sails, is, the type fitted at the moment are a plastic material and I prefer “cambric cotton” which look better for this type of sailing ketch. My 1st IngaIV I made the sails having never sewn before and had never had a sail boat before either. I was completely a novice and to some extent still am. I have intended to rework the sails to give a slightly more area, and a little more roach to the main sail plus add roach to the booms as my 1st sails had none. Having plenty of material left over I shall make two sets which I feel will improve both yachts. I have also been toying with the idea of making a set of stowed sails and using the motor driven yacht for our steering competitions. This would look like the real thing then when entering port. I don’t have a photo of Inga with sails stowed but the enclosed photo give some idea what I intend to achieve. The other photos show the plastic sails against the set I made up.
Roger
Liked by Razor1955 and Peejay and
#7

Ra IngaIV mk2Refurb

Hi everyone, Roycv, I think this is the first time I’ve actually viewed a photo of your Inga IV, and I must say I like the cabin woodwork, the lighter graining is mellow and very attractive, I am also surprised that you still have a one piece cabin, as you say it’s an pain removing the mizzen mast and rigging to open the hull up. A definite original design flaw!. As my 1st Inga didn’t have a rear cabin top when I acquired her I made a point of building the cabin in two halves. Which means I don’t have to derig her, not even when I go to the pond as I’m fortunate to have suv with a tailgate big enough to accommodate her in fully rigged state. Now my new acquisition has a one piece cabin so I’ve just de rigged her mizzen mast and with a fine blade in the band saw cut the cabin into two sections across the beam. Then I cut the rear cabin in two, forward and aft along the centre line. Put her all back together and rigged her up. All I have to do now is tidy the joints up, job done access to the hull without derigging.
Roger
Liked by Mike Stoney and jumpugly and
#5

Ra IngaIV mk2Refurb

Hi Roy, it's beautiful!

I see that this model is very common and requested by you in England.

Yes masts always create problems for RC models.
Liked by Peejay and Len1 and
#3

Ra IngaIV mk2Refurb

Just noticed the photo has saved me some hassle as I can read the crystal number 835! Well that has saved me some time!

I take photos of everything you never know when they might be useful!
I use the SDcamera card on a reader adapter USB plug in. Two days ago it no longer worked on my Windows 11 laptop. if anyone else has noticed this it seems that the last update removed the program Legacy photos from s/w. With help I found the program and loaded it up and hope it will stay with me. I do not use a smart phone so I am a bit of a dinosaur.
Roy
Liked by Peejay and Len1 and
#2

Ra IngaIV mk2Refurb

Hi Rogal just doing a small refurb on my Inga IV. as well Taking the mizzen mast out to get at the insides is a real bad design error.
I use a forehatch to locate the charging socket and the slide back hatch at the stern has the on/off switch. I use an invisible length of string to haul up the switch and the string end is looped around a hook on the mast.
Your sails look OK in the photo.

My drive motor is a Monoperm special with a 1 : 2 gear reduction, running from the 7.2 volt 3300 mAh NiMh battery which supplies all the power. The sail winch is at least 40 years old with a winding drum each side, but it works fine.

I have recently got my trolley working again and so can move this yacht around but I need help launching her. They look so good on the water.

For those not familiar you can see that the cabin has to be removed but the mizzen mast goes through it. There are 3 shroud ropes each side holding up the mast and mine all have turn buckles, and it takes ages.

I have also just remembered I have forgotten the number on the 40 mhtz crystal! So off it all comes again.

She is a lovely yacht to sail and a crowd puller as well.
Roy
Liked by Mike Stoney and Peejay and
#1

Ra IngaIV mk2Refurb

Here’s my next project, a light refurb on my latest acquisition. The ketch is a IngaIV original with all the fixtures and fittings present, complete with all radio gear and motor, servo, and drum. The hull is unmarked and the deck is in good condition. The boom connections needed tweaking onto the drum cords which now work perfectly, I intend to make up a new set of sails. Also the rear cabin will be reworked into a 2 half, split centrally and separate to the centre cockpit. This will help access to the internals. I intend to try her out on Sunday at the pond, weather permitting, hopefully by then I will have a video and more photos to post!.
Roger
Liked by Mike Stoney and peter3l and

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