After making a Dory for her, I researched davits and made these yesterday. The only material suitable for the job in my workshop was some 3/16” quarter sawn oak. These will be sanded and painted along the way before declaring the model is finished.

I didn’t like the idea of placing it on the forward deck as pictured here. If I did the type of rig seen in the last photos, there would be no main sail on the mast and boom.

Hi Ron, as I was telling you, that type of anchor is called an admiralty anchor.

In the model preceding the one I'm finishing now, I used a much simpler solution. I used a Hall-type anchor (see photo) partially protruding from the hawsehole.

A small aside regarding translations, which we discussed privately: in Italian, it's called "occhio di cubia" (a hawsehole); well, no normal translator like Google Translate finds the correct nautical term. Google translates it as "hawse eye," which is incorrect.
This time, I know why we're using the word "occhio" (eye). In ancient times (Roman, Greek, Egyptian, and Phoenician ships), fake eyes were painted around those holes.

I couldn't do the same for the current model because it wouldn't have been consistent with the historical period.

I saw that the admiralty anchor was perfect and was actually used for those types of ships.
I could have built it myself, but since I'd already wasted a lot of time and the Amati one was very well made, I decided to buy them ready-made.
I then studied the system for placing it on board, as you can see from the photos.

Initially, I was perplexed by your choice because I thought it was an anchor used mainly on large military vessels.
Although it fell into disuse and was replaced by other, more modern types, it was very widespread and used in its time (and for a long period of time) in many fields.

I can confirm that the stock (in Italian "ceppo") was removable and secured with a cotter pin. However, I advise against placing the anchor vertically resting on the gunwale (especially without tying it down) because in reality, with the rolling and pitching movements, it would certainly fall.
It wouldn't be realistic to place an anchor resting like that, even at anchor.
An inboard anchor is fine for that type of vessel, but it would be better to place it on the deck and secure it with some ropes.

+++++

Anchor stored.

Hi Ron, sorry for writing so late, but lately I've been a bit lazy with translating posts, and the more time passes, the more messages pile up within the same topic, so I always put it off.
The topic of the anchor was very interesting to me, and I really appreciated your detailed research and, above all, your research into sources.
I don't think I need to add much because you're making a kit (if I'm not mistaken), so just follow the instructions.
I can tell you that I studied that type of anchor some time ago because it was the best one to put on my model, and at first I had some doubts.
I'll finish completing some translations and tell you mine.
I'll tell you in advance that, in my case, for that type of anchor (as you surely know, it's called an admiralty anchor), I had to study the correct way to keep it on board, the correct systems for lowering it, raising it, and securing it. They weren't at all obvious.

No I haven’t Roy, but I will.

Hi Chum have you looked in My Harbour against my account?
Roy

I just looked up The Cuxhaven 87 by Billings, and it has some changes to the wheelhouse configuration. They move the engine exhaust aft, changing the front windows and making a three panelled front but have left that deck and skylight as was on the original 1958 plan. In all the videos I’ve watched, only one example had a raised deck in front of the wheelhouse and it had NO skylight.

Many original designs have an access door down to the engine along the side of the wheelhouse which has been raised.

Roy, please alter yours. There are some good examples on YouTube for references.

My thoughts,

Ronald (Ron) one in the same. 😊

Well Roy let’s see some photos.

The Billing kit for this fishing boat must be one of the most prolific kits ever made as it came out in 1958 and there must be more kits than full size boats. The Cuxhaven 87 by Billing is exactly the same hull as the Mary Ann.

The coding on the hull frame sheets is the same number for each kit. Anyone with an old kit should discard the brown wood as it dries out and is almost useless. But, photocopy it first and stick onto new wood.
Old fittings kits with brass items are much better than the current plastic and laser cut wood parts.

I have a kit with the frames done but not planked, but I think I might change the deck layout and cabin, not yet decided.
Roy

Good info from your friend. “It depends on……” is true for so many real-world boating situations. BTW, “ ruin your whole day” is a USAF euphemism for getting killed.

Jimmy, my fisherman friend who is in the Shetlands say, "It depends on what you are doing, if you are not inshore you could take out the stock, we work creels inshore, and it’s better to have it stocked, if you have engine trouble."

There you have it.

Although I’m not a kit builder I’ve always thought that if you have photos of similar 1:1 vessels following what they show is far superior to what’s shown in the plans.
Your photo # 4 shows what I was describing re the anchor. It’s not incorrect to lash it down inside the gunnel. Even on a pleasure vessel gear in an unstable position is an extreme hazard.If you’re combining traditional elements with modern you could substitute a Danforth anchor, but since you already have this anchor why not stay with it.
If it were me I’d run the anchor chain through a hawse to below deck. But what I’d do is irrelevant. It’s what pleases you as the builder.
👍

Chum, these alterations are on a Billings kit the Mary Ann. It does seem odd, that there are old and new technologies present here on this kit, plus since I am creating a nonfishing make believe vessel, I should have modernized elements. Radar, being one as seen on a vessel operating today which is evident in the photos below.

That being said, here are what you find in the plan sheets

Paint sure changes the appearance of a model. Here are before and after photos.

Morning Ron. I suggest a slight modification to what Roy mentioned. An anchor is actually a safety device. In an emergency, such as a loss of power or possible grounding, it is rapidly deployed to slow or better yet stop the vessel from drifting. No time to slide the stock into the eye on the shank. Therefore I would slide the stock through the eye & position it next to & parallel with the anchor’s shank. Then lash the anchor to the gunnel. You currently have it in a position one would not see on the real boat. It is in an inherently unstable position. Anything on a vessel that is in such a state could ruin your whole day at sea.
I’m not familiar with the 1:1 your basing your model on but anchor chain is typically stored in a locker below deck. A box on deck would not hold a large enough amount of chain (rode) to securely anchor in deep water. Rule of thumb is that minimum anchor rode equals 7X water depth.

Your restoration is coming along nicely; looks good.

My anchor uses a chain and the chain is stored in a box it is not clear on the diagram of the deck plan if it is a chain locker below deck or that the chain is stored in the box? There is no capstan to haul it up.

According to Google the stock on small vessels is placed through the slot when brought into use. Otherwise it is stored separately but with the anchor, to save space. I have cheated a bit as my crew are still pulling up the anchor.

I never asked them where they stowed it but they are not using the stock. I will take it up with the captain next time I see him, but he is a good chap and mostly knows what he is doing. Still us owners must stick together and I will check the insurance policy.
Roy

Is it to be secured to the anchor? I have seen photos where it appears to be secured and another has it appearing loose which would allow it to slide.

The 'extra' black item is called 'The stock' It sort of stabilises the anchor when doing its job.

Roy

Roy, I have these two black parts, one is an anchor, but what is this other one and where does it go?

Hi Ron The Mary Ann has always been a good steady hull rarely gets water on the deck so the scuppers hardly have to do anything.
The only problem I have had is making sure there is enough aerial going up the mast to maintain control. But I use 27Mhtz so may not be an issue for you.
Look forward to seeing her on the high seas!
Roy

Happy with the results, the rail will be painted so not an issue with various grains or colours of wood.

The kit only shows 3 scuppers is this enough Roy for the average day on the water? I generally don’t sail in stormy conditions.

🤔

Great clamping arrangement! Phew! Thought I was the only one using odd (creative?) items for clamping pressure. On the more practical side I have used small plastic bags of shot to apply clamping force for difficult installations.

I was scrolling through my pictures and found I had this one of the 'Shetland Bus'. It operated during the war but I think there was another one as well. Smuggling guns and agents. Must have been the noisiest secret operation ever. The engines could be heard miles away, but maybe a rough sea and wind protected them.

Roy

Installing the hand rail on the gunwales. There were only the bow sections in this used model boat kit, which required making the middle and aft sections. Using a thin strip of Oak the same thickness as the mahogany which came in the kit, for the middle straight section and thin Baltic Birch ply for the aft.

So glad the scroll saw had a find blade on it to make that cut.

Glued most of the sections in place and now it’s just walk away to let the glue dry.

Used various items to apply pressure very delicately.

Good article Roy, thanks for sharing.

Hi Ron nice pictures. On the model I made the semi circular rear deck is removeable, it just slides in place so you have access to the tiller. It has a couple of notches to fit the upper part of the rear frame, stays there OK during sailing.

The circle on the sail with the number in it, I think this also identified the rescue boat which normally went out with the fishing fleet. That is of course the origin of the so called Colin Archer boats.

A scotsman who went to Norway to design the rescue boats, frequently double end boats are refered to as Colin Archers. Several are now converted to yachts as is Christiania RS 10. This boatwas sunk in 1600 feet of deep water and Classic Boat magazine had a picture of her on the sea bottom all sails set, pretty but eerie.

I would suggest that these boats get knocked about a lot, which suggests they are not sailed by the owners, but he pays for a crew to go fishing.

Roy

https://www.classicboat.co.uk/articles/christiana-from-shipwreck-to-sailing/

More research photos

I found one with jib and main set running in a strong wind. Interesting the aft sail is not up.

A number of the photos also showed the wheelhouse windows open. These windows slide down into the sill.

I was also looking for where and how the navigation lights were placed and if the settings were painted Red and Green.

Some placed the forward crew hatch in line with the mast and others are off to the side. Some vessels have a raised foredeck.

I was also looking for the stove pipe design and location.

The vessel RS Idun is a special events corporate vessel which chairs, tables, bar and BBQ. A tarp offers shade and a protective cover from the elements.

One group of vessels had yellow and White hulls and some white or yellow gunnels. All in the harbour had White wheelhouses.

Thanks Roy

See the revisions to my original post.

Roy, it appears that the sprit is moveable and is extended or retracted depending upon the sailing conditions.

In some if these video clips, it is sailing with only one jib and the sprit retracted. Then in other clips, it is extended and two sails are seen.

If, I am going to go this route, a lead keel will need to be installed. I will also build it for harbour purposes with sails furled and using the onboard motor which is already installed.

Hi Ron that is exactly like a Mary Ann would be converted to a family home. It looks great. I will check the web site for more info. Thanks very much for that.
Happy New Year.
Roy

First thing is I know you are going to say is “What?” But yes, consider it a sailing Mary Ann.
I found on YouTube several videos of a vessel named Selma.

The white one is located at the Norwegian Fishery Museum in Bergen, Norway.

I found a second Selma on on Facebook and YouTube are ghey the same boat???

Saving a 105 year old sailship, exploration, boatbuilding

“Selma of 1914 Adventure”


I know the hull design is different from the Mary Ann. So is the wheelhouse. I’m looking at the bigger picture. A Jib, a Main and a Mizzen. Most unique, especially a Jib . This particular vessel has been converted to a family home and not a fishing vessel.

Look here:

Ronald

Hi, it is on the deck,it would be in the way when they were fishing.
Roy

Is the rowboat on deck or being towed?

If you want to personalise your Mary Ann you could put a rowing boat behind the cabin, most of them had one there.
Roy

Oh my Ron, where are you going with this??? Certainly not a fishing boat!

I’ve added coaming around the hatch ways and created a center battery support in the hull. A 7.2v NiMH will just fit through the hatch and sit on a shelf inside the hull.

I was showing PeterD an ESC that I bought on Amazon and he liked that it had various options which included being able to set it to perform without a pause between forward and reverse, a common problem with rc crawler esc.

I liked that it had Dean’s connectors on it as all my batteries are setup with this connection.

Coming together what other works have got planned
Philuk👍

....admiring the skeg....👍

Hi Ronald, I checked on the motor it is a standard 6v 385 or '400' motor, that is just right for the model.
Roy

Hi Ronald, yes that is a 9 gram servo. See the description 9g that is the weight. It has a 1 pound torque at 1 cm (3/8ths inch).
Quite enough to work the rudder and small enough to tuck away.
Roy

Roy, it is a Promax Brushed 6v No. 341

Not sure what a 9 gram servo looks like, but is it a Micro Servo like this?

Hi, looking good. You only need a 9 gram servo for the rudder, that is what I have in mine. Which motor is that?

Roy