After making a Dory for her, I researched davits and made these yesterday. The only material suitable for the job in my workshop was some 3/16” quarter sawn oak. These will be sanded and painted along the way before declaring the model is finished.

I didn’t like the idea of placing it on the forward deck as pictured here. If I did the type of rig seen in the last photos, there would be no main sail on the mast and boom.

Hi Ron, as I was telling you, that type of anchor is called an admiralty anchor.

In the model preceding the one I'm finishing now, I used a much simpler solution. I used a Hall-type anchor (see photo) partially protruding from the hawsehole.

A small aside regarding translations, which we discussed privately: in Italian, it's called "occhio di cubia" (a hawsehole); well, no normal translator like Google Translate finds the correct nautical term. Google translates it as "hawse eye," which is incorrect.
This time, I know why we're using the word "occhio" (eye). In ancient times (Roman, Greek, Egyptian, and Phoenician ships), fake eyes were painted around those holes.

I couldn't do the same for the current model because it wouldn't have been consistent with the historical period.

I saw that the admiralty anchor was perfect and was actually used for those types of ships.
I could have built it myself, but since I'd already wasted a lot of time and the Amati one was very well made, I decided to buy them ready-made.
I then studied the system for placing it on board, as you can see from the photos.

Initially, I was perplexed by your choice because I thought it was an anchor used mainly on large military vessels.
Although it fell into disuse and was replaced by other, more modern types, it was very widespread and used in its time (and for a long period of time) in many fields.

I can confirm that the stock (in Italian "ceppo") was removable and secured with a cotter pin. However, I advise against placing the anchor vertically resting on the gunwale (especially without tying it down) because in reality, with the rolling and pitching movements, it would certainly fall.
It wouldn't be realistic to place an anchor resting like that, even at anchor.
An inboard anchor is fine for that type of vessel, but it would be better to place it on the deck and secure it with some ropes.

+++++

Anchor stored.

Hi Ron, sorry for writing so late, but lately I've been a bit lazy with translating posts, and the more time passes, the more messages pile up within the same topic, so I always put it off.
The topic of the anchor was very interesting to me, and I really appreciated your detailed research and, above all, your research into sources.
I don't think I need to add much because you're making a kit (if I'm not mistaken), so just follow the instructions.
I can tell you that I studied that type of anchor some time ago because it was the best one to put on my model, and at first I had some doubts.
I'll finish completing some translations and tell you mine.
I'll tell you in advance that, in my case, for that type of anchor (as you surely know, it's called an admiralty anchor), I had to study the correct way to keep it on board, the correct systems for lowering it, raising it, and securing it. They weren't at all obvious.

No I haven’t Roy, but I will.

Hi Chum have you looked in My Harbour against my account?
Roy

I just looked up The Cuxhaven 87 by Billings, and it has some changes to the wheelhouse configuration. They move the engine exhaust aft, changing the front windows and making a three panelled front but have left that deck and skylight as was on the original 1958 plan. In all the videos I’ve watched, only one example had a raised deck in front of the wheelhouse and it had NO skylight.

Many original designs have an access door down to the engine along the side of the wheelhouse which has been raised.

Roy, please alter yours. There are some good examples on YouTube for references.

My thoughts,

Ronald (Ron) one in the same. 😊

Well Roy let’s see some photos.

The Billing kit for this fishing boat must be one of the most prolific kits ever made as it came out in 1958 and there must be more kits than full size boats. The Cuxhaven 87 by Billing is exactly the same hull as the Mary Ann.

The coding on the hull frame sheets is the same number for each kit. Anyone with an old kit should discard the brown wood as it dries out and is almost useless. But, photocopy it first and stick onto new wood.
Old fittings kits with brass items are much better than the current plastic and laser cut wood parts.

I have a kit with the frames done but not planked, but I think I might change the deck layout and cabin, not yet decided.
Roy