OK so over the years i have built many Model Boats some restores all types POF glass fibre plastics etc but never from a plan only so here goes this is inspired by what i have seen on this site and wanted to have one myself and after finding out there is no kit for this boat i thought i would give it a go these plans are Sarik Hobbies version and believe it or not are set at Beginner ? well i must be a complete novice because the first week i was trying to work out the keel from the drawings🙄 as you can see below they come with no patterns so its tracing paper im afraid .as you can see from the plans im guessing this will be classed as Semi scale as the hull is not the same as the real one last picture shows the rubbing strip on the stern is actually the shape of the real one however lest see what it turns out like

in this blog you will see what the actual Keel should be shaped like from here widened at the back then added the bulkheads and the Transcom . from there i added the chines top and bottom the curve on these chines i used the Kerf technique but added wood glue to all the tiny slots when i curved them round so should then glue the curve in place this system worked very well for me .

here is were i added the skins to the bottom and the sides firstly the bottom skins went on reasonably easy just leaving the very front of the bow . once in place and dry i moved onto the sides now i added here a couple of fillers at the top for the raised section as you will see i intend to use Balsa block for the very front part of the bow .once the fillers were in place they were trimmed to follow the bow line then the sides were added as you can see higher all along as i want the front raised section as one piece with the side skins

this next part was relatively easy basically two balsa blocks cut to a rough shape glue in place once dry start shaping till; you get it were you want it . after i shaped this i added a skin to the transcom from here we was on smoothing to correct basic shape . once i was happy here i then put some filler in the small gaps and all over the balsa block to fill the sanded grain.

this next part shows before i fit the deck as such i will clean as much of the inside and stain and seal with a couple of light coats of resin so it will water proof the wood on the inside in case of any potential leaks or ingress of water when using it . To note it also looks nice when your at the Lake and take the top off and anyone has a peek 👍.
last couple of pics here are the stand i made scrap piece of knotty pine 4x1 and a broken broom handle does the trick quick stain and yacht varnish it will be dry by about the time the boat is finished 😂🤣😂🤣
and yes i date stamp beginning and put my name in every build not always visible when finished though

in this next part i make and install the deck or lack of it but the idea will be i can take the whole top off for access or that is my hope any ways 😁 after this was sanded flush i then smoothed what i had and then give the whole outer surface with a thin coat of resin ready for cloth

next part is to cover the whole outer hull and deck in cloth and resin im using 1oz cloth here as it worked really well on my Slec Huntsman resin used is the same as well Deluxe Materials Ezicoat i think this stuff is brilliant and sands real easy whats more cleans up with water👍i managed to get it to form to the bottom and the side in one cloth sheet each side i thought i may have to do the bottom and the sides separate but nope went on relatively easily so i was most happy the stern and deck will require separate cloth but seeings as there flat i should see no trouble apart from the odd insect landing on it 😂🤣

glassing mostly done and went on really well and smoothed off really fast at this point i added deck edges and rubbing strips i also decided were the prop tube will sit and decided to have the motor far up front to give me the room for cabin interior at a later stage i added a couple of support triangles to support the tube length to stop any flexing also note as the keel is so thick on this i had to recess were the water inlet goes on the inside as there not long enough water inlet poss just for ascetic looks rather than cooling as i dont think its going to be a water-speed record boat but may use a water cooled ESC on this one 😂🤣

at this stage i have gone over the whole hull exterior with some Filler Primer this i do this to give me an idea of any imperfections that need dealing with this is then smoothed out ready for other parts to be added to outer hull .
also and lucky for me i have my 3d printer i did the name plate for the stern and the trim to give it the illusion of curved rear i presume. This was in the plans i did this 3d printed as id need a really bendy piece of timber to recreate this looks odd though now but lets see what its like when painted👍

ive now fitted the 3d printed parts to the transom and gave it a quick coat of grey primer before i move on to start on the superstructure seeings as this is my first scratch from plans it gives no idea on how do i want to get into the workings after the super structure is on so some forward thinking is needed notice the rear most bulkhead top cross section is now cut away dont worry there is method to my madness here i think😜 but seeing the the bulk heads are about 20mm thick it wont cause structural problems to the hull also notice ive added a couple of supports to the rear open deck idea here being as it looks here i should be able to have this much access once finishes

ok so here we go in the next sequence im just putting on the sides and the rear with a bit 5x5 balsa to strengthen and rigid up the front

so here it is so far main part done and sized to fit the hull as you can see i have made this all one part . it will now allow me access to the full hull interior this way i have also added the inside walls as the plans didnt show this plus i dont think the particular plans go with an interior but i want one so the idea will be to fit the interior controls interior cabin door and side cabinets in here then once i figure out how im going to do it ill install a removable floor containing the seats and the table that should butt up to the forward controls and cabinets .. this way i can remove the floor for cleaning purposes as time goes on also to note the rear open deck is attached lets all now see if my method has worked 😉

as you can see success👍👍👍👍 brilliant
as you can see through the windows on the last pic i will be covering up the forward bulkhead with the interior controls
also worked having the longer prop tube the motor will not interfere with any of the cabin interior and sits low enough for the floor not to be compromised 👍

so to carry on ive started to install an interior just the basics to start here so cabinet doors lower cabin doors controls etc to come later i have stained all the wood in a dark oak colour as you will see in the pictures .. remember the floor is removable so i can clean interior easier later

on this next part i lined and stained the rear deck flooring adding in the hatch as you remember the rear floor comes away with the superstructure to give me more work room inside the hull
i also made the cabin door this will be hinged and operable

here we have the front window frames installed as you will remember in the film these are hinged as Brody climbs out of them in the end once the orca was sinking
i have also installed the front cabin roofs and sides here
last pic shows the small side lockers installed i did these out of a small block of Balsa and grooved them the added a ply lid
all fitted looks real snug against the side walkways
its really starting to look a lot better know
before i forget the main roof and super structure sides have now got beading once painted it will all become one

i have now started to construct the flying bridge basic ply construction the a bit of mahogany planking on the outside with some trimming i will on the next part install the marker light carriers and control column and shelf at the front the idea was to install this permanent to the super structure roof but i have decided to bolt it down so i can remove later if ever needed👍

so i am lucky enough to have a 3d printer so i thought lets get it involved with the build so first addition is the marker lights and blinkers easy enough as seen in the pics it will be lit so holes drilled into the fly bridge sides to let the bulbs in also and with the film version there is a metal tube running from the fly-bridge through the roof down to the internal controls so ive simulated this with a printed tube and then drilled a hole in the cabin roof the idea here is so any electrical s up here ie marker lights and the control panel and the spot light wires can all be hidden and routed through here which will come out at the bottom of the cabin👍or thats the plan a
.. i have also measured up and printed a control panel and shelving for the fly-bridge as you can see it incorporates skirting so you wont see were the marker light wires will run

well after a we bit of mental block time i have got back to the Sarik Orca not a lot has gone on with the main Hull and Super structure apart from it now being smoothed off and primed all in Grey come on i hear you say get the feck on with it 😂🤣

So i have ordered a load of brass tube and assorted wire and bits and bobs there is a plan for the mast on the Sarik plans but i have not followed them instead i have just gone off photos of the film boat not exactly to scale but i think it works firstly like everything else i've done for far i wanted to be able to take this off for repairs and cleaning in the future so a bit of thinking i came up with this idea 10mm brass tube i could only seem to get this in 300mm lengths so a bit of joining would be Req . PIC 1 i have attached the tube to a brass mast base and attached that to a wooden block which i have put two bolts to screw this to the floor pic 2 you can see i have attached a brass plate this sits neatly on the cabin roof again with a bolt through it 👍

the next thing was to get the mast to the correct length so just soldering it would not do because a soon as you knock it it'll break so what i did was drill holes in both ends of the joining parts rolled a bit of brass sheet inside slid on the other end of the mast and coated the inside and out with flux blow torch and some solder and let it flow through the holes and around the join and hey hey one piece Pic 1 shows the hols and the rolled sheet pic 2 shows the other tube with the holes ready for fitment pic 3 ready for flux pic 4 joined pic 5 full length.

Now for the moment of truth lets fit it to the superstructure and floor as seen in the three pictures it has gone on quite well and is removable
to note the wooden block base also has a 10 mm hole through it this is so i can run any electrics i want down the main mast tube and out the bottom for connection for marker lights and the rear lamp

Here is were i went a bit creative adding features to the mast and going off the film boat the top marker lights and the support rings and the winder mechanism i 3d printed everything else is brass wire and tube 6mm for the rear boom with some odd scraps added holes are drilled ready to take wiring , next will be to smooth down all solder and prime .👍

i have now painted it and smoothed off in prime grey and refitted looks a lot better now ⛵

Here is where i have made the Bow pulpit from brass wire and a small bit of brass sheet to hold the uprights in place lots of pictures viewed here to get this as best i could i then cut a piece of ply and heat grooved some planks to give the effect this was then stained dark and resined over and finally satin coated then work out how to attached it all to the hull overall went really well to it could be removed later if ness i did this with just a couple of black screws

so now most of the main parts are completed i decided to paint the main colours and also dirty it up a touch
so colour is Seasick Green apparently well i ordered some and eeerrrr it was almost i luminous so took it all off again and went with ivory white then a dirty green was effect before using satin coat over the top
probably not correct but hey look for yourself i dont think it turned out half bad also to note door now attached and working
still miles and miles to go but getting there slowly