Great workmanship Jock! Coming together beautifully. Don’t know what I’d do without my styrene stash! I use CA on it or the Tamiya thin brush on, just keep the CA away from the window clear. It can haze it.
Keep those pix coming!
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I'm really happy to see this work again.
It's one of the most interesting for me.
Jock, I'm personally interested in all the construction phases and all the details.
Perhaps you learn much more from mistakes than from successes.
I'll soon tell you about a very big one I made, due to haste.

Hi Jock, a very welcome and long-awaited return.
You're doing a great job, don't worry if you're making slow progress.

Jock welcome back! Aye, really like the chain guide and the superstructure work is falling into place nicely. I scraped the whole superstructure except the floors on my freighter and got out the styrene and haven't regretted that move (below). Keep the pix coming when you can...really liking this resto a ton; trials and tribulations included!

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Good news Jock! Yet, anything invasive is a big job. Lay low and heal for a bit. It’s good to have that project to jump back into. It’ll aid in recovery; worked for me every time!
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GWS Jock🤞
Stiff upper lip old chap😐
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Hi Jock, I hope it's nothing serious.
Happy recovery and good luck.

Stay looped in and best wishes on a solid surgery and speedy recovery Jock!
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Hey there Jock! Fantastic hull, I only hope my American Scout can be as smooth!
On styrene I'd give the Krylon Fusion line a shot. Smells to high heaven, but drys hard with a high gloss...will require multiple light coats as opposed to the Rustoleum line of Painter's Touch paints which cover well in one shot.
I am a fan of the Tamiya paints, but not of the Testors spray paints, although they do have decent coverage. It's the least they can do considering the can size.

As per usual, always do test strips and let everything gas out completely. Any gloss clear top coats should be tested on whatever you use to avoid any horrible unforeseen mishaps. Remember, if you think it's dry, it's not.

Hi Jock, I'm very happy that you continued the work on this model.
I love that you updated us on your progress.
This account is very informative.

More than right, Jock.
I look forward to enjoying the developments of ESSO Deutschland.

When I use ballast I keep it simple. I don't generally use strict calculations as to ballast density, just approximate, so that the ballast is underweight. Then add trim ballast. Do a test run first. Fill some plastic bags with dirt/sand, or ? to see what it takes to trim the boat, then work out the amount of ballast you need. Kind of like using a balance scale to weigh something. Put the item on one side then start adding weights to the other side. Common sense will tell you what to do and what materials to use, depending on what is available, cost and effectiveness.

I add ballast to have the boat float evenly at or slightly above the waterline. This is done in a tub, usually outdoors. when there is no wind blowing.

As a boat will not usually float evenly (fore-aft and/or port-starboard) when completed, several locations for ballast might be warranted. Floating unevenly might be caused by either the details on the boat being not symmetrical or perhaps some off center internal components.

One can use fixed ballast or removable ballast, or both. My preference is usually removable ballast as who knows what changes might be added or removed in the future. For heavier boats both fixed and movable might be a good choice. The movable ballast is usually for trimming and fine tuning.

The most common type of ballast I use is usually non-rusting metal. What kind of ballast material depends on the amount I need and the size of the boat, and of course how much volume is available as well as the shape. Again, here is where common sense into play. We all know that the ballast should be added at the lowest point(s) available. That could define the overall shape of the ballast.

IMPORTANT: For better stability keep the ballast as low as possible.

So, here are some examples:

SMALL BOATS: (Boats generally under ~20".) Here the ballast is usually minimal in amount needed and placed into small spaces. BBs, small ball bearings (balls only), hardware (nuts, washers, etc.).

MEDIUM BOATS (~20-35".) More freedom of ballast locations allow a larger variety of materials. Perhaps a mixture of materials depending on if it is fixed or removable.

LARGE BOATS: (>~35".) Here is where cement (concrete) might come into play as well as other options for inexpensive materials including water itself.

TIPS:
💡 I had a large barge I wanted to trim out to about 100 pounds (45 kg). I brought some empty plastic soda bottles with me and filled them at the pond. Then I placed them inside the barge (photo) along with some bricks after it was in the water.
💡One of the SSMBC members has a "whaleback freighter" and uses a pump to add ballast after launching. Pumps it back out before lifting it out of the water when done.
💡 Coins. Here is the US the common copper penny can be used. Its inexpensive and stacks very well into a tubular shape.
💡 Velcro is a handy way of holding a ballast box in place.
💡 Many times I will make a 3D printed box and fill it with a ballast material and seal it. Often this is attached with Velcro.
💡 Cement (concrete) works just fine. I recommend "casting" it in a container which is the shape you want. Let it cure well (a week?) then paint it with several coats. I used urethane varnish. The best concrete to use is the kind without aggregate (powder only). The better the finish on your casting box is the better the finish on the ballast will be. I personally would not pour the concrete directly into the hull.

Note that these are just suggestions and can vary depending on the type of boat you have. Hope this helps.

Lew
Florida 😎, USA

Hi Jock, I see you are very determined about the choice of concrete and the construction phases.
You have already weighed the pros and cons of using concrete so yours is a wise choice.
The only doubt I have is on the specific weight of 3.16 kg/dm3. It could be different and it could be less. However, since you have decided to proceed with an empirical method (very effective in this case in my opinion): "Once I get to the point of putting my model to water, I will do some testing how much weight I really need" then establish precisely the specific gravity no longer matters.

However, even using concrete (and therefore occupying a much larger volume than a heavy metal) you may still have a lot of space available to create the buoyancy reserve. You only need 34-36 dm3 and I think you could find them anyway.
Since it is very easy to create, it costs nothing and since you want to sail the Esso Deutchland on the ocean, I would seriously think about making it unsinkable.

I invite you to also consider (but you have certainly already done so) batteries as ballast. Don't limit yourself. In such a large RC model you can easily obtain truly exceptional performance in terms of autonomy.
What a great advantage not having to look for light but expensive batteries and instead being able to use heavy and cheap batteries without problems.

Even with the empiric method, it is better to immediately achieve the correct longitudinal trim with the two extreme quarters (bow and stern). In this way the addition of weights in the central quarters will have very little influence on the inclination and you will be able to regulate the sinking with greater serenity.

"I surely let you know once I get there." Of course I'm counting on it, Jock.
As I already told you, your work is one of those that attracts my attention and interest the most. I don't want to spoil too much but I'm curious about the electrical setup. It's not wrong to think about it now.
I hope you will put side lights, fog sirens, fog lights and more.

One question: How will you navigate your tanker, fully loaded, empty or somewhere in between?