Wow, compliments!

May I bring you my basement skeleton?
Best regards,
Michel -C.

Jock, don't worry.
This hobby should be a pleasure, not a chore.
Don't worry about the end result and enjoy every moment you dedicate to it; when it's over, it'll be over.
I understand you because I'm slower than you.
No offense to anyone, but I prefer very ambitious and complex projects like yours and Ross's. You could have made a kit and built it quickly, following the instructions, but instead you've attempted a much more complex project.
I enjoy watching everyone's models come to fruition; everyone contributes their own skill, but I also enjoy the intermediate stages and the problems that arise along the way; they're very instructive.
So far, you're doing great, and remember that perfection isn't of this world.

Thank you all for your comments and compliments. Alessandro, I find your project with your quest for authenticity, sparing no efforts and pain to reproduce according to the original most inspiring and in line with my own endeavours. This is not to diminish the excellent work portrayed by others here on this forum, but your attention to detail is outstanding. Unfortunately my experience is limited and other than a Billings 'Blue Nose', started in the '70's never finished due to career and family and moving across the continent, beyond rigging and sails, I have never attempted a project in this magnitude. As I run into issues and dissatisfaction with my shortcomings I do wonder if I may have cut off too much at this stage in my life. I am 4 years into the 10 years I was giving myself to start and while I am quasi happy with what I have accomplished and willing to live with the warts and inaccuracies, I had hoped for a bit better but unless I start over, it will not correct. Maybe nobody will ever see those but it bugs me what I know. Maybe I need counselling when I am done. I have reserved finishing the 'Blue Nose' when and if I get utterly frustrated.
Today I am picking up my RC set from a local hobby shop as I hope to initiate maiden voyage in early Spring before I tackle the monumental task of replicating fittings and few meters of tubing. I thought of buying a small metal lathe for making what I need but still hoping I can save myself by finding some sources for getting it done or maybe somebody local with 3-D printing capability.

Hi Jock, I'm happy to see how they are resuming and continuing the work on one of the most interesting naval models for me.

Wow, quality workmanship. My hands would ache from doing that type of precision cutting. I hope you enjoy the praise you have earned!

Great work Jock! Very Sharp!!! Have to love freighters!!!! And thank God for card stock and styrene sheet!!!
👍😉

sorry for the duplication in some of the pictures

why is half my original text left from the posting?

Great workmanship Jock! Coming together beautifully. Don’t know what I’d do without my styrene stash! I use CA on it or the Tamiya thin brush on, just keep the CA away from the window clear. It can haze it.
Keep those pix coming!
👍

I'm really happy to see this work again.
It's one of the most interesting for me.
Jock, I'm personally interested in all the construction phases and all the details.
Perhaps you learn much more from mistakes than from successes.
I'll soon tell you about a very big one I made, due to haste.

Hi Jock, a very welcome and long-awaited return.
You're doing a great job, don't worry if you're making slow progress.

Jock welcome back! Aye, really like the chain guide and the superstructure work is falling into place nicely. I scraped the whole superstructure except the floors on my freighter and got out the styrene and haven't regretted that move (below). Keep the pix coming when you can...really liking this resto a ton; trials and tribulations included!

👍😉

Good news Jock! Yet, anything invasive is a big job. Lay low and heal for a bit. It’s good to have that project to jump back into. It’ll aid in recovery; worked for me every time!
👍😉

GWS Jock🤞
Stiff upper lip old chap😐
😎

Hi Jock, I hope it's nothing serious.
Happy recovery and good luck.

Stay looped in and best wishes on a solid surgery and speedy recovery Jock!
👍

Hey there Jock! Fantastic hull, I only hope my American Scout can be as smooth!
On styrene I'd give the Krylon Fusion line a shot. Smells to high heaven, but drys hard with a high gloss...will require multiple light coats as opposed to the Rustoleum line of Painter's Touch paints which cover well in one shot.
I am a fan of the Tamiya paints, but not of the Testors spray paints, although they do have decent coverage. It's the least they can do considering the can size.

As per usual, always do test strips and let everything gas out completely. Any gloss clear top coats should be tested on whatever you use to avoid any horrible unforeseen mishaps. Remember, if you think it's dry, it's not.

Hi Jock, I'm very happy that you continued the work on this model.
I love that you updated us on your progress.
This account is very informative.

More than right, Jock.
I look forward to enjoying the developments of ESSO Deutschland.

When I use ballast I keep it simple. I don't generally use strict calculations as to ballast density, just approximate, so that the ballast is underweight. Then add trim ballast. Do a test run first. Fill some plastic bags with dirt/sand, or ? to see what it takes to trim the boat, then work out the amount of ballast you need. Kind of like using a balance scale to weigh something. Put the item on one side then start adding weights to the other side. Common sense will tell you what to do and what materials to use, depending on what is available, cost and effectiveness.

I add ballast to have the boat float evenly at or slightly above the waterline. This is done in a tub, usually outdoors. when there is no wind blowing.

As a boat will not usually float evenly (fore-aft and/or port-starboard) when completed, several locations for ballast might be warranted. Floating unevenly might be caused by either the details on the boat being not symmetrical or perhaps some off center internal components.

One can use fixed ballast or removable ballast, or both. My preference is usually removable ballast as who knows what changes might be added or removed in the future. For heavier boats both fixed and movable might be a good choice. The movable ballast is usually for trimming and fine tuning.

The most common type of ballast I use is usually non-rusting metal. What kind of ballast material depends on the amount I need and the size of the boat, and of course how much volume is available as well as the shape. Again, here is where common sense into play. We all know that the ballast should be added at the lowest point(s) available. That could define the overall shape of the ballast.

IMPORTANT: For better stability keep the ballast as low as possible.

So, here are some examples:

SMALL BOATS: (Boats generally under ~20".) Here the ballast is usually minimal in amount needed and placed into small spaces. BBs, small ball bearings (balls only), hardware (nuts, washers, etc.).

MEDIUM BOATS (~20-35".) More freedom of ballast locations allow a larger variety of materials. Perhaps a mixture of materials depending on if it is fixed or removable.

LARGE BOATS: (>~35".) Here is where cement (concrete) might come into play as well as other options for inexpensive materials including water itself.

TIPS:
💡 I had a large barge I wanted to trim out to about 100 pounds (45 kg). I brought some empty plastic soda bottles with me and filled them at the pond. Then I placed them inside the barge (photo) along with some bricks after it was in the water.
💡One of the SSMBC members has a "whaleback freighter" and uses a pump to add ballast after launching. Pumps it back out before lifting it out of the water when done.
💡 Coins. Here is the US the common copper penny can be used. Its inexpensive and stacks very well into a tubular shape.
💡 Velcro is a handy way of holding a ballast box in place.
💡 Many times I will make a 3D printed box and fill it with a ballast material and seal it. Often this is attached with Velcro.
💡 Cement (concrete) works just fine. I recommend "casting" it in a container which is the shape you want. Let it cure well (a week?) then paint it with several coats. I used urethane varnish. The best concrete to use is the kind without aggregate (powder only). The better the finish on your casting box is the better the finish on the ballast will be. I personally would not pour the concrete directly into the hull.

Note that these are just suggestions and can vary depending on the type of boat you have. Hope this helps.

Lew
Florida 😎, USA