Having got a couple of coats of primer/undercoat on the hull followed by three coats of gloss I thought I'd leave it there. Left it for a couple of weeks so that it was nice and hard so that it wouldn't be damaged easily.

Today I had a bit of time to work on it and did a bit more on the superstructure in readiness for making and fitting the front window. Couldn't help putting some varnish on to see how the stern came up along with some more on the deck etc! 😁

As you say Bob, the Swordsman is only 2" longer but looks considerably larger due to its greater beam and more slab sided hull compared to the more shapely Huntsman.

The photos of my 1:12 builds show the difference in sizes and the hull volumes. No wonder the Swordsman is the more stable of the two!

Been a few weeks since I've done anything model boat building related but after dusting off the Huntsman 31 and regluing some errant strakes I thought today, as it was a bit cooler, I'd start painting the hull and applied a coat of International One UP primer/undercoat. It was good to get back on this model and seeing how the flared bow looked with paint on it as I hadn't touched it for a longtime having got distracted by other Fairey builds, including the Faun which was the last one started.

Faun also got some paint on it today having it's first coat of gloss - International Toplac Plus.

Started painting the hull of Faun and have applied primer/undercoat. I'm hand painting my Faireys and am using International Yachts Paint as many owners of the full-sized boats use.

I've decided to go for white now, which contrasts nicely with the mahogany but at some stage might paint it in a pale blue.

As with the Huntsman 28 I'm keen to try it on the water.

As I mentioned at the start of this thread, this model was the first I started when I got into the hobby about 8 years ago! But then got put aside whilst I began a number of other builds. It is pretty unique in that (in common with all my other builds) it is built to a scale of 1:12 and the superstructure lifts off. Usually access is through the roof and cockpit floor.

Yesterday was spent installing the motor and rudder and the RC gear so that I could try it on the lake today. The 60amp HobbyWing Quicrun ESC comes without a battery connecter so one job was to solder one on, an XT60 in this case to suit my 3S Li-Po. Was beginning to think I wouldn't get it done in time as when connecting everything up I found that the bullet connecters for the motor and ESC were different sizes. Fortunately I found three male connecters that would fit and so replaced those to the motor. The Rx was then bound with the Tx and the ESC was set up - using a program card really does make this easy - with my 30amp ESC I have to use the bleep method which is true in both senses of the word!

It was about 10.00 pm after I'd topped the battery charge up and tried things. Everything worked Ok but the motor start up was a bit abrupt (more noticeable when out of the water and unloaded) but I decided to reset that parameter, using the program card again, to the softest start. It was on 4 out of 9 from the factory, so changed to 1.

So arrived at the club this morning to find the water level was about a foot and a half below its usual level! i usually launch my boats from hand but had to resort to one of the club's lauching cradles as i would never have gotten back up again!

We mentioned centre of gravity on other threads and with this model really it's too far forward - mainly because the motor and therefore part of the prop shaft is right at the front of the cabin - I positioned the motor here to keep the angle of the prop shaft as low as possible and also the bow is heavier than the stern due to its construction and also you've got the cabin. As I said then, Fairey hulls tend to very forgiving and buoyant and when on the water it sat on the waterline fine. It came onto the plane easily and at just the right angle I'd say and reached a fast speed I was comfortable with at about two-thirds throttle on a 3S/11.1volt battery. Didn't photograph at that speed, at which the wake was pretty good - photos are somewhat slower.

Slow speed was also good and smooth, despite the brushless motor, and so its maiden voyage was deemed a success.

Despite not having any windows it remained as dry as a bone inside despite some spirited turns. Just got to finish it off now but that won't be until autumn/winter now. Returning to the Faun so I can try that out.

Thanks Will, this is going to be a favourite of mine. Even though it will be the slowest Fairey!

Despite the heat in the small bedroom/workroom I'm determined to make progress so that along with the Huntsman 28 I can take it for lake trials. I find that an exciting part of the build!

So during the last 2 days I've made the enclosure for the rudder servo and battery, boxed in the prop shaft and made the seats. Was going to glue in the floors but have decided to leave loose as they aren't going anywhere and I can take them out if it gets dusty or I get sawdust under them which is very likely whilst still working on the superstructure. It's only a slow speed craft after all.

Thanks for the comment Stu.

Trying to do a bit each day before it gets too hot! Thin mahogany sheet isn't the strongest and so I made up a strengthening piece for the arch over the doorway, with the grain running the other way. This was glued and clamped in place for a couple of hours. This will also provide a good base for the roof.

I'd still got some laser etched ply for "planking" used on previous builds which is ideal for making the floor. I made cardboard templates for the cockpit and cabin areas, drew around them on the ply and then cut and sanded them to shape. I don't usually do much in the cabin areas but as this model will have a lift off roof for access, as well as the floor, I will be adding mahogany seating which will be carried through into the cockpit.

Returned to the little Faun and having cut out the cabin/cockpit sides from mahogany sheet I dry fitted them. Whilst it looked neat with the cockpit sides extending down to the seats I then decided to cut 12mm off them so that the hull would be exposed as per the real thing and which was the reason for painting the inside! These were then glued in place and left overnight.

Having done a dry run of where the various components would fit, space is tight, I began thinking how I would build the inside of the hull and superstructure. With a plan in my head I cut slots so that the rudder servo and battery leads could be pushed into the holes I'd drilled through the frames which will then be covered by the seating.

I then measured up and drew the cabin rear wall which was then transferred to thicker mahogany sheet and cut out with the scroll saw. Bit of sanding to fit and then both parts were glued in place.

Few coats of dark blue on the hull bottom and I've removed the masking tape. The paint has bled through in a few places, mainly where the chines and strakes/spray rails meet, as it was difficult to mask in those areas, but once the paint has hardened off I can sort that. I can then try it on the lake.

I've also made a start on the superstructure by primer/undercoating the roof.

Making a start on the superstructure now which will mainly be in mahogany. But before I start fitting it I've painted the inside of the hull as some of it will be seen behind the seats. It was already waterproofed with a couple of coats of Eze-Kote but I've painted most of the inside even though most of it will be covered up.

In the background you can see my Huntsman 28. I painted the hull sides white a couple of years ago and whilst back in painting mode I thought I'd dust it off and paint the bottom blue, two coats of primer/undercoat on at the moment. Once that's done I can take it for lake trials which I'm looking forward to. Must paint the Swordsman and Huntsman 31 as well so I can try as well.

Chris