Been awhile since I worked on this build due to work on the Faun and other Faireys.

First job was to build up the gunwale on one side as I was a bit enthusiastic with the narrow belt sander! This was done with a lamination of two small square sections of bass - then sanded down by hand!

Then I added the stringers for the cockpit coamings. I'd produced the drawings some years ago and have now decided to have the cabin front and sides fixed in place rather than removable. This has meant adding in some extra timber pieces and cutting slots in the frames - always awkward when insitu.

I then drew up the cabin sides ready for printing. Before I do that though I'm going to fit the top support for the keel whilst I still have good access.

Chris

Fitting the windows was delayed as I had to redo the glazing on one of them - I didn't make a very good job of cutting the glazing around the frame and as it was one of those on the front it wasn't good enough.

Apart from repainting the roof and some minor detailing, which I shall return to later, that's it done. My first plank on frame and round bottom hull model.

I shall now return to my other plank on frame build, the Fisherman, and other builds.

Started this a few days ago but had to leave it as I needed a servo extension lead, so ordered some in different lengths for this and stock.

So all connected up and it worked but I couldn't get the motor to run in reverse despite setting the throttle position and reprogramming the ESC a few times. Got there in the end though. Many thanks to Doug again for pointing out on another thread that you can in fact program the HobbyWing 30amp Quicrun ESC using the program card - it makes things so much easier. 👍

Just got to secure the ESC and Rx now and tidy up the cables and that's the installation done.

I've trimmed the "glazing" around the window frames now and will glue them in place tomorrow.

I decided to go with satin black for the window frames which matches the rubber of some of the full-sized boats. These have now been glued to 0.5mm clear plastic sheet and once dry will be cut out and filed.

I thought that the wheel shown in an earlier post was a bit big and the brass plating too blingy so bought some more. These are solid brass and not so shiny but I was surprised that they came as a bag of bits! Amazed that they can machine such small parts and a challenge to assemble but they are good quality. But once done a drop of cyano on each spoke kept things in place.

A mount was needed so I cut a square out of mahogany, filed it roughly to shape and then finished it off in my little lathe aka battery powered drill.

Today I started on the RC installation by fitting the prop shaft and motor, the rudder (very fiddly small screws!) and servo etc. Once the battery was fitted I tried it in the bath.

Very pleased as it sat at just the right angle and although a round-bottom hull it is very stable. Despite only being 16" long it is starting to weigh a bit now (I never build light) which means it should perform well on the water.

Water level is just below the bottom rudder bracket and so little chance of any water going through the slot for the rudder arm. Even if it did the inside of the hull has been sealed, primer/undercoated and glossed.

Once I've finished the RC installation and the windows it will be ready for trying on the lake.

Unlike with my other builds I'm determined to finish this one before I move onto others!

One task I never look forward to is making the windows but once I get into the swing it's not too bad apart from when I have to remake the odd one. I use 0.5mm plastic sheets for the frames and 0.5mm clear sheet for the glazing.

I cut the frames out with a Stanley knife and nail scissors and finish off with some diamond needle files and glass nail files.

I usually finish with chrome paint but as these are going onto mahogany I want less contrast and so ordered some Humbrol paints including various shades of brown to see what works best. These have just arrived which is timely.

Made and glued the front former in position and then completed the planking. Trimmed and sanded the perimeter of the roof and gave the top a preliminary sanding. A bit of surface filling is required and a final sanding and then it will be ready for Eze-Kote, lightweight cloth and paint. Once that's done I'll glue some mahogany strip to the perimeter.

Not too much to do then. Make and fit the windows and screen, get and fit a wheel and controls, varnish the mahogany, fit the motor, rudder and RC gear and I think that's it?

Constructing the roof is underway. Due to the curvature I'm using my usual method of bass planks, in this case 2 x 9mm.

First time for making a removeable roof so hopefully it works out Ok! First thoughts were to construct a plywood base with curved cross-members to support the roof but then decided against that.

Then decided to put some tape around the top of the cabin so that I could lay the planks on the top and they would conform to the curves. I bevelled the sides and then held them together whilst I applied of cyano (odourless type) which worked well. As I approached the sides though I needed support in the centre so made a cross-member from bass sheet which enabled me to add another plank each side.

But it then got tricky due to the difference in curvature from back to front and there was a gap along the top of the cabin sides. So I then made another cross-member, which I was going to have to do at some point anyway, to go at the rear cabin wall. I shall probably have to reduce the width of the planks now and make the former for the front of the roof before going any further.

Cabin sides now glued to windows and after leaving overnight I sanded the cabin sides back as they were slightly proud.

It's been quite a few weeks since I've done anything with my builds but now that autumn is upon us and we're experiencing a few wet days it's time to start again.

Must admit I wasn't looking forward to making the front windows. Initial making of a template from a block of balsa didn't really go anywhere and holding pieces of timber in place was difficult as they kept sliding and moving around so marking them accurately was impossible.

So I then decided to make and glue in place a "plinth" from 3mm mahogany which gives me something to work against and provide additional gluing area. I could then mark out and cut and sand the two window blanks. I've learnt from bitter experience not to cut out the window openings until the blanks are finished!

I think these are one of the most complicated things I've had to make. As well as the vee the windows are angled back and the cabin sides also run away at angle which meant that all sides were chamferred with a curve to the top as well. I drew the curve on thin card and cut and bent it to replicate the windows. From this I could see that a point occurred because of the angle and so I flattened the curve.

I've over-sanded parts before and had to remake them so I went very slowly with these and was very happy when they turned out Ok, fully expecting to have to have another go (as I've done with flat windows). Had to be careful as they are mahogany which is going to be varnished and I didn't want to use any filler.

Fitted the port side yesterday and just fitted the starboard side and so once left overnight I can glue the cabin sides in place. You can see I managed to break the port side by just catching it. The mahogany is thin, had dried out a bit and was brittle. The windows will add strength and I will add a batten along the tops. It will be ready for making the roof then.

I can now try it in the "test tank" and maybe down at the club if the water level has risen again?