Hi y’all. Was able to squeeze in some time this weekend to start knocking out some sub assemblies for the S T74. I started with the main cabin first. Dumas uses a built up wood frame that is then sheeted over with die cut plastic for a lot of their superstructures that are meant to replicate metal, vs say, Billings, which provides very nicely precut parts in wood, but then one has to spend a lot of time filling and sanding to get the exterior to have a smooth, metal look. Don’t get me wrong, as I think Billings makes great kits, I just get a little lazy on occasion .
Anyway, the frame is built up over the deck opening, with the fore and aft formers nestled up to the coaming. This way you get a nice snug fit. Once the framework is built, the directions advise to tape it down snug against the deck so that the sheeting, once glued in place, will need minimal trimming or sanding to make with the deck. Nothing groundbreaking here, hardest part was getting the plastic strip roof cap glued on flush with the top of the roof. Not a hard job, just a little fiddly.
Now, at this point the instructions direct you to adding doors, rails, etc. I went ahead and built up the subsequent sub assemblies to get a look at what I’ll be facing when I do the details. Before I started the pilothouse I had to glue 3 wood pieces on the cabin roof..these are there to locate the pilothouse and the skylight once built. I then started the pilothouse. It too is built up of wood then plastic sheeted. Although the instructions don’t mention it, I gently contoured the bottom of the framework of both upper assemblies before I sheeted them, as the cabin roof as a slight curve to it. This makes a better join to the roof and will require less filling on my part. The skylight is built up much the same as the cabin and pilothouse.the pilothouse roof is a vacuum molded part, and is a very thin abs or maybe styrene…not difficult but you need to take your time cutting and sanding it before installation.
Last thing I did was the forward steps that lead to the cabins roof and the pilothouse. Don’t know if I’m entirely satisfied with it, I’m going to take a sanding stick to the steps to even them out before I attempt any sort of do-over. Also, I had it in my mind to cut out the windows, and drill holes for actual portholes vs using the supplied decals, but I’ve decided to use what’s provided. I’m keeping this boat relatively simple. However….I might do maST and nav lights. Still on the fence about that..
Next up will be fiddly bits..railings and such.
Cash

Hi y’all. So, usually I do groceries Saturday morning around 630-7 am, go home, unload, go to the bench. I was a little late getting there as on the way home, my 2012 Abarth lost its mind. When I turned on the lights, I heard a “thump” from the speakers, radios off. Then, right near the house, my instrument cluster started going haywire. I got messages about the hill holder (which I have turned off), my temp gauge pegged then went back down, speedo bouncing, esc light flashing, then goes into limp mode. It came out of limp mode a minute later, set a light and drove normally after that. I’m suspecting a failing alternator, we’ll see Monday when I get to work….if I get there🤣
Anyway, that rattled me, it took a bit to get started on the ST74, but I got quite a bit accomplished. I did the rub rails first. The rails are made up of a provided half round rubber strip. I would have preferred half round plastic in the same size, but ya work with what ya got. The top rail goes from the fwd post down the side of the hull, around the stern and back to the post on the other side. I found the best way was to tack down the end, pull it with a littl tension and use thin ca to secure. Except for the very front it’s actually pretty straight. You then cut successfully shorter strips and work your way down.
I then did the coaming. The instructions has the builder cut 1/8 square wood and glue under the deck, and projecting past where the coaming is installed, this way it’s sure to be flushed up to the deck. Then you’re supposed to remove the strips. I used 2x5 mm plastic, as I decided to keep them in place for added support, and cut and sanded them flush when done.
The fantail is built up of a die cut plastic part with thin styrene strips glued down, using another strip to space them. It’s not glued in so you can access the rudder tiller and linkage, and I think it just wedges between the deck riser and the aft bulwark rail, but I might use a magnet, or maybe even a small drop of glue at front. If I have to remove it for any reason I can get an xacto to the glue dot and pop it off with no damage.
Last thing was the bulwark rail. Needed a slight amount of trimming but fit well.
I’m very close to being able to spray the ull, need to touching up and a couple of minor details done, then I can get the hull primered and start hitting the cabin.
Cash

Hi y’all. Since I’ve maidened the Pilot, I found myself with an empty workbench. I really like to build, as my building time seems to help me focus on other things in my life, family, work, etc. Calms my mind, I think…so I decided to build something a little smaller. I had a Dumas ST74 kit that I received Christmas 2 years ago, so I decided that would be my next build. It looks relatively simple, but that can be deceiving…
So, the ST74 is typical of the newer Dumas kits. Nicely laser cut wood, expanded PVC sheet, styrene hull and molded parts, some fittings, strip and wire. You also get a full size plan view, written instructions and a booklet of illustrated building steps. The hull is a 2 piece affair, and both halves matched up well.
First thing one does is to build the simple stand, built up of what looks like 3-4 mm expanded PVC die cut parts. You could use this as a permanent stand, but I’ll build something better once the boat nears completion, as it’s really designed to be just a cradle to build on.
Like my Whitehall I built a few years ago, the hull is constructed from 2 halves, glued together and the joint reinforced with fiberglass tape flooded with thin CA. Thankfully this hull is a little thicker material than the Whitehall. Then it’s a relatively simple task to install the stuffing tube, rudder tube, deck and a 3/16th keel which covers the hull joint from the knuckle of the aft hull forward and up the bow. Now, this boat is supplied with a nicely made 1/8 inch diameter shaft and matching stuffing tube, but since I have quite a few 4mm props, I elected to set the tug up with a 4mm shaft and tube. I had a very long Caldercraft Fineline unit that I cut down, and used the cut ends bushing to mate with the tube. Once I had it freed, I pressed it in place and used the shaft to finalize alignment the soldered it to make sure it wouldn’t work loose.
Now, this boat is designed for a 400 size motor and 4.8 volts for power. That is not how mine will be powered. I’m using the same Zippkits 36mm 650KV motor that I’ve used in boats from my Taucher Wulf down to my little Kragle. My reasoning is that this motor is deigned for tugs using 6-7.4 volts, and the tugs gonna need ballast anyway. Also, I’m not using the little white nylon prop that Dumas has been using in their smaller kits for years, as I’m running a slightly bigger 3 blade Graupner prop. Now, changing motors from design necessitated a different mount. I usually do a bulkhead style mount, and screw the motor in place thru th pe bulkhead, but this time I used the supplied cross mount. I had to Dremel off one of the legs so it would clear the hull bottom, then screwed it to the motor, and used socket headed sheet metal screws to attach the assembly to the mount. This gives me more room to make removing the motor a little easier.
That’s where im at now. I also built up the rudder using 1/16 ply vs the 1mm styrene in the kit. Next up is the front bumper and rub rails, then I can start on the deck coming and bulwark rails.
Cash