Model Expo has confirmed that production will soon begin on a new Midwest kit: the Fireboat, presented at a scale of 1/2" = 1 foot.
To clarify, Model Expo has acquired the licensing rights from Midwest to produce all of their models. At the moment, they have 27 kits in production, with more on the way. I previously worked with Model Expo in customer service, answering model-building questions and handling replacement-part requests. Now, I am one of the model builders who assemble their prototypes—the models they intend to release to the public.
With that being said, I invite all of you to follow along with this build. I introduced only a limited number of modifications—mostly to make the vessel more suitable for radio-control operation and to enhance its realism—while preserving the essential character of the original design.
Many of you have probably built this classic kit before; however, this is my first time working with it. Please feel free to share your opinions and past experiences with this charming little model.
History of the Fireboats
This model represents a small fireboat equipped with twin monitors, a type of vessel historically stationed in nearly every major working harbor throughout the United States and abroad. Its configuration is based on a combination of plans and photographic references from several representative examples. Because of this, it serves as an accurate portrayal of the smaller fireboats—many of which are still in service in various ports today.
😎
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Model Expo has confirmed that production will soon begin on a new Midwest kit: the Fireboat, presented at a scale of 1/2" = 1 foot.
To clarify, Model Expo has acquired the licensing rights from Midwest to produce all of their models. At the moment, they have 27 kits in production, with more on the way. I previously worked with Model Expo in customer service, answering model-building questions and handling replacement-part requests. Now, I am one of the model builders who assemble their prototypes—the models they intend to release to the public.
With that being said, I invite all of you to follow along with this build. I introduced only a limited number of modifications—mostly to make the vessel more suitable for radio-control operation and to enhance its realism—while preserving the essential character of the original design.
Many of you have probably built this classic kit before; however, this is my first time working with it. Please feel free to share your opinions and past experiences with this charming little model.
History of the Fireboats
This model represents a small fireboat equipped with twin monitors, a type of vessel historically stationed in nearly every major working harbor throughout the United States and abroad. Its configuration is based on a combination of plans and photographic references from several representative examples. Because of this, it serves as an accurate portrayal of the smaller fireboats—many of which are still in service in various ports today.
😎
Morning Chug! Yessir, but my Dad's was in a monster scale 1/12th scale, with boom it's a shade over 40" if memory serves. I will go over to the garage and measure it to be sure.
👍
Chug! Here you go... My Dad's large smack has a hull length of 36", with bowsprit it's 40", and overall with boom it's 47". Closer to 1:10th scale I'd say.
😉
Alessandro:
When I reached the hull planking stage on this kit, I had the same concern you did.
Under different circumstances, I would probably have added a layer of fiberglass cloth to stiffen the hull, but in this case I’m trying to follow the original instructions as closely as possible for commercial purposes.
I need to present the revised building instructions to Model Expo, so they have to stay very similar to the originals.
Regarding our concern about using balsa wood in a marine environment, I addressed that by applying several coats of marine epoxy, sanding between each coat. The results have been fantastic.
After the sea trials, the model will be placed in a display case at Model Expo and will never touch the water again.
😎
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Alessandro:
When I reached the hull planking stage on this kit, I had the same concern you did.
Under different circumstances, I would probably have added a layer of fiberglass cloth to stiffen the hull, but in this case I’m trying to follow the original instructions as closely as possible for commercial purposes.
I need to present the revised building instructions to Model Expo, so they have to stay very similar to the originals.
Regarding our concern about using balsa wood in a marine environment, I addressed that by applying several coats of marine epoxy, sanding between each coat. The results have been fantastic.
After the sea trials, the model will be placed in a display case at Model Expo and will never touch the water again.
😎
Hi Chugalone, I also think that after treating the balsa hull with epoxy resin both inside and out, it will be very resistant, even without the use of fiberglass.
Jumpugly,
If you—or any member of this forum—lneed anything, just let me know. They’re only about 30 minutes from my home, and if you live on the other side of the lake, they can also mail you anything you need.
😎
Jumpugly,
If you—or any member of this forum—lneed anything, just let me know. They’re only about 30 minutes from my home, and if you live on the other side of the lake, they can also mail you anything you need.
Good morning, Chugalone.
I've spotted a few tips on assembling a winch or ladder... at your place.
Simple tools were used, like I did back then with the clothes pegs. . .
My sincere regards for the perfect details. . . !!
Sunny greetings from cold Switzerland, 😎😎😎😎
Your Michel-C.
Ps: Old photograph taken during assembly testing of the Dolores,
the sternwheel steamboat with the clothes pegs turned upside down. ☺️
Hi everyone,
While surfing the net, I came across a very interesting article on how to scratch-build a 32" cabin cruiser.
If any of our fellow members have built this model, I’d really enjoy seeing photos of the finished boat and hearing about your experience. Even though I’m more of a “tug guy,” many of the builds posted here have caught my attention and motivated me to seriously consider tackling this type of model.
I picked up the magazine on eBay and copied/enlarged the frames, mainly to keep them on the back burner until I finish the three projects I currently have on the bench.
Looking forward to your comments and photos.
😎
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Nov. 1934 Popular Mechanics - 32" model of "Roamer" Cabin Cruiser.
Hi everyone,
While surfing the net, I came across a very interesting article on how to scratch-build a 32" cabin cruiser.
If any of our fellow members have built this model, I’d really enjoy seeing photos of the finished boat and hearing about your experience. Even though I’m more of a “tug guy,” many of the builds posted here have caught my attention and motivated me to seriously consider tackling this type of model.
I picked up the magazine on eBay and copied/enlarged the frames, mainly to keep them on the back burner until I finish the three projects I currently have on the bench.
Looking forward to your comments and photos.
😎
That's a nice model. I see that it is designed for an outboard which is a problem nowadays as very few are available and at the right size. It could easily be converted to an inboard though.
Certainly an unusual way of constructing the frames, if it was me building one I think I'd produce the frames as one and notch over the keel in the conventional way.
Hello to everyone, it's being a wile since my last entry about this Fireboat.
Finally its all finish and even water trials.
So, let me continue relating the steps taken to finish it.
BUILDING THE RAILINGS
After finishing the main structure of the model, it was time to add the stanchions and railings. I started by bending the upper railing sections to shape, carefully following the contours of the deck and superstructure.
Then I measured and marked the exact locations where the railing stanchions would be installed, making sure to maintain proper spacing for the scuppers.
A piece of scrap balsa was cut to the required height and used as a simple soldering jig to ensure all stanchions were soldered at a consistent height and remained square during assembly.
By this stage, my critical eye was not satisfied with the appearance of the stanchions (split pins). The visible double legs detracted from the realism of the railings, so I decided to come up with an alternative solution.
Split Pin Sleeves
I marked the required sleeve length directly on my work table and transferred those measurements to the material using a pencil. To prevent crimping or deformation while cutting, I inserted a solid rod into the tubing to support the inner diameter and maintain its shape during the process.
😎
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Hello to everyone, it's being a wile since my last entry about this Fireboat.
Finally its all finish and even water trials.
So, let me continue relating the steps taken to finish it.
BUILDING THE RAILINGS
After finishing the main structure of the model, it was time to add the stanchions and railings. I started by bending the upper railing sections to shape, carefully following the contours of the deck and superstructure.
Then I measured and marked the exact locations where the railing stanchions would be installed, making sure to maintain proper spacing for the scuppers.
A piece of scrap balsa was cut to the required height and used as a simple soldering jig to ensure all stanchions were soldered at a consistent height and remained square during assembly.
By this stage, my critical eye was not satisfied with the appearance of the stanchions (split pins). The visible double legs detracted from the realism of the railings, so I decided to come up with an alternative solution.
Split Pin Sleeves
I marked the required sleeve length directly on my work table and transferred those measurements to the material using a pencil. To prevent crimping or deformation while cutting, I inserted a solid rod into the tubing to support the inner diameter and maintain its shape during the process.
😎
Antenna According to the Plans
This is a purely decorative item, and the plans allow it to be assembled in two different ways. The instructions call for a 1/8" wooden dowel combined with a 1/16" rod.
I decided to go a different route and used brass tubing instead, which I think gives it a cleaner, more realistic look.
One small detail I incorporated—both for the fire monitors and the antenna bases—was using different sizes of Hillman flange bushings. They worked perfectly and added a nice, finished appearance.
😎
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This is a purely decorative item, and the plans allow it to be assembled in two different ways. The instructions call for a 1/8" wooden dowel combined with a 1/16" rod.
I decided to go a different route and used brass tubing instead, which I think gives it a cleaner, more realistic look.
One small detail I incorporated—both for the fire monitors and the antenna bases—was using different sizes of Hillman flange bushings. They worked perfectly and added a nice, finished appearance.
😎
Life Rings
The next small detail was the life rings. I ran into an issue here because the original model—purchased from M.E. (Model Expo) and later given to me, was missing these parts. I didn’t want to use aftermarket replacements, as they would not be to the correct scale for this model.
To resolve this, I fabricated a master plug, encased it, and produced a mold. The life rings were then cast using white casting resin, resulting in parts that matched the required dimensions and appearance.
For future modelers purchasing this kit, there’s no need for concern—these parts will be included in the new production kits.
Below is a series of photos showing the process used to accomplish this task.
😎
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The next small detail was the life rings. I ran into an issue here because the original model—purchased from M.E. (Model Expo) and later given to me, was missing these parts. I didn’t want to use aftermarket replacements, as they would not be to the correct scale for this model.
To resolve this, I fabricated a master plug, encased it, and produced a mold. The life rings were then cast using white casting resin, resulting in parts that matched the required dimensions and appearance.
For future modelers purchasing this kit, there’s no need for concern—these parts will be included in the new production kits.
Below is a series of photos showing the process used to accomplish this task.
😎
After the rings were primed and painted flat white, I created a digital file to add the name plate and the vessel name around the life rings. Below is the material I used for this process.
One funny thing happened while I was analyzing the size of the blueprint rings, I noticed that the name read “City of Bath.” That got me curious, so I went looking to see if the City of Bath actually had a fireboat. To my surprise, they don’t.
So, with that discovery, I decided to create one and named it “Crimson Chief.”
😎
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After the rings were primed and painted flat white, I created a digital file to add the name plate and the vessel name around the life rings. Below is the material I used for this process.
One funny thing happened while I was analyzing the size of the blueprint rings, I noticed that the name read “City of Bath.” That got me curious, so I went looking to see if the City of Bath actually had a fireboat. To my surprise, they don’t.
So, with that discovery, I decided to create one and named it “Crimson Chief.”
😎
The Electronics
I’ll be the first to admit that I’m no R/C electronics expert. This is only my third boat that actually floats and operates properly. There’s still a lot for me to learn about batteries, wiring, fuses, switches, transmitters, and receivers.
Most of what I do know comes from the many blogs and posts you guys have shared here.
Some of you seasoned builders might get a chuckle out of my setup, but it works—and that’s a win in my book. Most importantly, the smoke stayed inside the wires, so I’ll call that a success. Everything here represents the best I could do with the knowledge I’ve picked up so far, mainly from reading and learning from other modelers.
This first image shows an automotive windshield-wiper washer pump repurposed for the build, the side-mounted rudder servo installation, and a brushless tug motor from Zippkits.
😎
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I’ll be the first to admit that I’m no R/C electronics expert. This is only my third boat that actually floats and operates properly. There’s still a lot for me to learn about batteries, wiring, fuses, switches, transmitters, and receivers.
Most of what I do know comes from the many blogs and posts you guys have shared here.
Some of you seasoned builders might get a chuckle out of my setup, but it works—and that’s a win in my book. Most importantly, the smoke stayed inside the wires, so I’ll call that a success. Everything here represents the best I could do with the knowledge I’ve picked up so far, mainly from reading and learning from other modelers.
This first image shows an automotive windshield-wiper washer pump repurposed for the build, the side-mounted rudder servo installation, and a brushless tug motor from Zippkits.
😎
Due to the very limited space, the heaviest component (the battery) was installed low in the hull to keep the center of gravity down. An upper wooden mounting platform was then added and secured with Velcro. This platform will hold the speed controller, water-pump switch, main on/off switch, and the antenna, all mounted using Velcro for easy access and servicing.
😎
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Due to the very limited space, the heaviest component (the battery) was installed low in the hull to keep the center of gravity down. An upper wooden mounting platform was then added and secured with Velcro. This platform will hold the speed controller, water-pump switch, main on/off switch, and the antenna, all mounted using Velcro for easy access and servicing.
😎
👍
😉