Hi gents, thanks for your help.
I use Libreoffice writer and the Czech keyboard.It seems that special characters are not very well understood when inserting text directly into the editor in MB.I am attaching the same post as .doc and .pdf documents.
The attachments contain text that I originally copied and pasted into MB.(with problems)
It can be seen that inserting this new way is without problems. I used a free program to convert to .pdf
>pdf 24 tools< https://tools.pdf24.org . However, the .doc format also transferred without any problems .

Hi gents,
thanks for help. Sorely I use LibreOffice Writer and Czech keyboard mutation..something went wrong.
I'll try to insert the post as a separate text now. I'll see if everything is transferred correctly.

Hi Doug just done the test again and it worked OK. It must have been an error on my part.

I did not know the German keybord had alternates to 2 etc on the key?
regards
Roy

TEST!
Roy: Re 'They work in Word but do not copy across to this site messages. Don't know why?'
10² 10³ copied over from my Winword using Copy and Paste.
(Control c and Control v).

Re Alt + number ...
Many thanks for the list👍
I found ...
Alt 253 = ², Alt 0179 = ³
Alt 0253 = ý, Alt 179 = │
BTW; Alt 168 = ¿ as you say, Alt 0168 = ¨
Cheers, Doug😎

Tomarack, for the moment settle for a partial solution.
If you write everything with your mobile phone there are no problems, if you write on your PC, then you can only use your mobile phone to change the superscript character after the unit of measurement.
To write: raised to the second (or to the square if you prefer), i.e. the number 2 superscript, simply hold down the number two for a while. Logically it applies to all numbers.
With the same system put the fractions.

Sorry, they were tests.
We all need to help Tomarack.

m³

m²

Tomarack, do you use a PC or mobile phone to write on this site?

Hi I was going to wait for the definitive solution!
I have used superscript i.e. like the small 2 for the squared maths symbol. They work in Word but do not copy across to this site messages. Don't know why?

The alternative character set is below.

It is activated from the right hand numeric set plus Alt etc. First you must activate the keys by pressing the top left key of these numbers labelled 'numlk' and it will light up. so alt 171 is ½. alt 168 is the Spanish upside down question mark ¿.
I could not find superscript or subscript characters! So further help needed.
Roy

https://www.tedmontgomery.com/tutorial/altchrc.html

Hi Tom
Re: I was not able to copy the math formulas from my editor correctly. How did you do it please?

No Rocket Science Tom😁I don't know what device or what Editor you are using but ...
I use a Windows PC and a German layout keyboard. See Pic 1.
Look at the keys for 2 and 3. At the bottom right of the keys you will see a small ² and ³.
These are accessed by simultaneously pressing the ALTGr key (to the right of the Space bar).
I have checked several other national layouts, including Czech see pic 2, and have either not found this feature or different characters are shown in different languages.
Pic 3 Swiss. Pic 4 UK English. Pic 5 US English. Etcetera!
Seems to be a feature unique to the German layout!?

But there are other ways😉
I know that it is possible (in a Windows system🙄) to create special characters by pressing the Alt key (left of the Space bar) and a 3 or 4 digit number.
For instance Alt 225 produces ß, Alt 0225 produces á.
All very interesting but not very useful unless you have the full list of character codes in your head. Which I don't😔
There is however a better way. Gotta go now so more later. Pic 6 should give you a hint.😉
Cheers, Doug😎

to RNinMunich > Many thanks for the correction and help!!!
I was not able to copy the math formulas from my editor correctly. How did you do it please?

to jumpugly > Scale Conversion Calculator .. interesting and helpful !!!

Greetings
Tom

1/m 2 --> 1/m²
1/200 3 --> 1/200³

😎

to Ronald ..>oh yes, the lead bulb weight for my 60 cm model based on calculation 748g
for your model 28" will be lead bulb then 3 400(grams) x( 0.72x0.72x0.72)
3400 x 0,37 = 1258 g =

to AlessandroSPQR> .My lead batteries have reached the end of their useful life, so for my larger boats (Lulonga, barges) I use Li-Ion bat 3S1P12.6V, Models with ESC+BEC. For Minikitty NiMH Eneloop AAA 1.2V (min 750mAh) , for this my new project probably Eneloop AA 1.2V(4 pieces in a simple holder). These batteries are intended primarily for industrial use, they are very reliable.

There are also rechargeable Li-Ion 1.5V - I have them in my Canon camera.

You will use a slightly different procedure when choosing a model based on a large pattern.
We will use as the pattern the scale 1:200 =>(1/M)
Your model must be a reduction of this model (whether it is a motorboat, steamer, or military ship, always in a certain scale).
This default scale is the same for all dimensions of a large ship.
However, it is always true that lengths decrease linearly, for example, the scale M 1:200 means that all dimensions are divided by 200, and your model will have 1/200 the length of your representative. The optical appearance is absolutely the same as your model.

Areas – decrease quadratically, with the square power => 1/M²=>1/200²
1/200² = 1/200x200 = 1/40 000

this means that 1m² of the original => 10 000cm² /40 000 = 0.25 cm²

in scale M =1:100 then the area is 1/10 000 of the original, 1m² is then 10 cm² large
The same formula is used to calculate the area of ​​sails.

Volumetric measures and weights are reduced cubically, with the third power.

1/200³ = 1/200x200x200 = 1/ 8 000 000
in scale 1:100 then it is only 1/1 000 000

A model in scale 1:200 whose model has a displacement of 10 000 t => 10 000 000 kg
then has a displacement of 10 000 000 / 8 000 000 = 1.25 kg
in scale 1:100 => 10 000 000 / 1 000 000 = 10 kg
Basically, only take into account the DISPLACEMENT !!!!.
This is mainly given for military ships, and only sometimes for others.

Regarding speed, the following relationship applies: Vm = Vo / √M

Example: Vo = 20 km/h
M = 1:100
then for model > Vm = 20 (km/h) / √100 = 20/10 = 2 km/h
= 33.4 m/min
=0.56 m/sec

Well done Tomarack, you did well to repeat this concept.

The scale factor is linear for linear measures (such as height, length, width), is quadratic for surfaces (such as sail area), is cubic for volumes (such as immersed volume).

Just a few days ago I was talking about it in PM (unfortunately not everyone likes overly technical discussions) with RPLedm and the problems that can arise especially for those who do not take it into account, ignoring it.

But if you remember, some time ago we discussed it in many other topics. One of these was the one from a year ago with the title: "The immersed volume of te JockScott model (theoretical attemps)". For example in message no. 13.
I'll put the link at the end, I think RPLedm will be interested.

Hey! Tomarack, you definitely can't use lead batteries. In this case, will Lipo or NimH technology be the solution (just one of my 6 volt 4.5 Ah AGM batteries weighs about 700 grams, if I'm not mistaken) or the cheap disposable alkaline ones?


https://model-boats.com/forum/131081#131356

Tom

Are you saying that your Miniemma is going to have 748 grams of ballast which converts to 1.6 lbs?

Hi Tomarek! I use this scale converter. I couldn’t live without it.
Takes a bit of practice, but works beautifully.
😉

https://www.ginifab.com/feeds/cm_to_inch/scale_converter.html

I would like to add a little theory here

Scaled down proportions, basic dimensions of original model = 100%
example on my model>
If Emma has length 1 meter, my model has length 60 cm => 60%=>L x 0,6 => 1x0.6 = 60 cm
sail area 3393sq.cm => sail area P/ 0.6x0.6 => 3393 x 0.36 => 1221.48 sq.cm,
ballast 3400 g => => P/ 0.6x0.6x0.6 =>3400 x 0.22 => 748 g .

Lengths are converted linearly, areas are converted to the square power, and weights are converted to the cube power.🤑

I'm slowly continuing with the construction of my "Miniemma". I have the sides glued, and I'm continuing with gluing the bow and stern of the model. I decided to adjust the location of the rudder - I'll put it on a hanger on the sternpost. I had to add sternpost due to a minor construction error too. It seems more convenient to me, for transportation.
The bottom parts come out optimally according to the drawing.
I intend to move the deck 5 mm up - see the glued stops. I am also considering adding a bowsprit (if necessary). It is one thing to build a model and another thing - to teach it to sail. It happened to me with my "Minikitty" model.I had to increase the rudder area incredibly to balance the rigging.
Especially when you make adjustments against the original plan - there's always a hitch. She sails well at present...

I have just sorted out the lead on a weighted keel using flat lead. All ex guttering lead so being re-cycled.

I have a 3/8 ths inch wide keel and when in place cut out the lower area where the lead is to be then cut the lead to suit and fair it in using filler. It should be holding itself in now. When there are no bumps and dips left I use a fine glass cloth with ordinary epoxy glue to make a U shape support for the lead.
Then sanding filling and painting.
Picture shows slot cut in keel and the shaped lead underneath. I bash the lead into shape using a hammer!

Roy

Yes, just comparing this new build to your first Emma. The first had your bulb with no forward protrusion, but with the weight in the wood frame and I was wondering whether you are doing anything similar.

That said, the use of lead plate makes a lot of sense. Watching with interest. Now back to setting up my charcoal Weber kettle to do my first roast lamb. It will be interesting.

Peter are you asking about “ the first” meaning my first Emma?

You can see the “ first” had a fin which extended forward of the fin trunk. See drawing.

The smaller fin doesn’t have that extended curved design.

Regarding a “ bulb” none is planned though lead plates are possible.

The “ first Emma” carries 6lb of lead shot in a wood frame. It also carries les sail than the Gary Webb design.

This smaller Emma will have 1/4 the sail area of the original.

Stay tuned Peter

Are you using the same setup for the bulb as with the first Emma and what weight do you have in mind? Looking great.

Interesting scratch built project.
Its looking good already.
I’ll be a fine sail boat for sure.
😎

Here is my progress

The center fin is 4”/10cm below the hull.

Hi, I see I'm not the only one building a scaled down copy of the RC sailing sloop Emma.
About a year ago I got 2 sheets of plywood measuring 60 x 40 cm from a friend. I didn't know what to use them for. It occurred to me that this plywood could be used to build a small model.
Some time ago, while searching the net, I visited the Bearospace Industries website again. It seemed to me that the scaled down plan for Emma could be used. When recalculating the dimensions, the length of the model came out to be about 58 cm, the side parts are just 60 cm long.
Currently, I have the middle part glued together - the fin box,and the parts are ready to be glued together.
A minor problem arose when recalculating the weight of the lead bulb - with the result of 750 grams at an estimated displacement of 1350g. There is quite a small reserve for the hull, rigging and RC equipment.

She looks great

Hull is sheeted.

From bottom of fin to proposed waterline is 5 1/4”

Next is the interior

Anyone who has built an Emma will be able to follow the sequence.

Ron

I consume a lot of food that comes in cardboard containers and it helps that I love Rice Krispies which, when soaked in 10% cream, are the most evil but delicious meal going ... especially at 3AM when I can't sleep and then it snuggles me down into a deep sleep 😆😴

I still have some railway buildings and a boat I made over 60 years ago from these boxes. They were painted with oil based paints and glued with a water based resin glue. Unless they are museum quality models I doubt they will be well cared for when I shed this mortal coil but they have pleased me and served me well.

Hi Ronald I do both of those at the same time! I use audiobooks from our local library which I play during work in the shed.

It also sorts out my tinnitus as well, never hear it in there!
Roy

Clamping and waiting for glue to dry 🕣 time to go read a book 📖 😁

Hi I had assumed they were templates because as much as I like to use cardboard, when I have put time and effort into making a model I expect it to be able to last me out!

There could have been similar photos of my own current build with the templates just as shown.

Roy

Hello RPLedm, Hello everyone!
You must be quite hungry to be able to set aside so many containers!
Just suggested to my wife to buy one of these tomorrow . .
We're having Kellog's tomorrow! Yeah!
Have a nice evening!
Bb Michel-C.

So, a misunderstanding on the cereal box use. Nonetheless, they are an excellent source of building material which costs almost zilch.

Good to see you using "old cereal boxes". My HMS Pert and O Scale Railway wagons and buildings have more cardboard and grocery store flyers from the kitchen than I care to admit. Easy to cut, easy to glue, easy to reinforce with wood, waterproof and stronger than bull when varnished and painted 😊

Hold on folks, some of you are misunderstanding me. The cereal boxes are templates for the bottom of the new 28” sailboat. I will use these templates as patterns tracing their outlines on the sheet basswood, then using the bandsaw, the part will be cut and glued in place.

The Emma seen sailing is the full size 40” version not the 28” model. The small one has lots of work left to be done before launching.

There is a yacht plan called Krispie by Vic Smeed on the Sarik website. This is made mainly from cereal packets. It should be noted that the cardboard used for the packets is of a good quality.
All the cereal packets in this household get re-cycled mainly as tempates for models.
Roy

This made my day Ron! She's Perfect!!!!!!

😊👍

Hi very clever good idea with cereal boxes were there just patons or did finish over it .
Philuk👍

So simple and yet so elegant on the water.
Roy