As Nickthesteam has suggested using shotgun shot is a way to adjust the ballast you need. I put the dry shot into individual socks that I place in the boat and move them around until I find an optimum weight and location for them. Mark the locations for each sock in the boat and then you can remove them and add in an adhesive to the shot to make it into a brick if you want. If you do add an adhesive into the sock be sure to place it back into the boat in the locations you have marked so it can dry/cure to the shape of the hull. Be sure to put a layer of waxed paper between the sock and the hull to prevent the sock from gluing itself to the hull while it is curing.
Another nice thing about using socks/bricks is that you can remove them to lighten the boat for transport and then put them back in place when you use the boat. I do this as my tug weights 55 pounds in running trim. If you are concerned with them moving around while under way you can hold them in place with a piece of Velcro.
I also use Neo magnets and lactating/sealing lips around the removable superstructure. LEN1

Hi Scott
In answer to your model digging in at speed this suggests the balance is a bit to far aft. If you can't move items internally then you could try moving ballast at the stern a bit forward or possibly adding a small amount near the keel at the front. If you imagine a see-saw a small amount furthest from the pivot point can lift a much larger weight nearest the opposite side. It can be a fiddly process but if you only sail in calm conditions it is achievable. I assume there is some form of lip on the rear hatch and if not you need to make one. I have used neodymium magnets with several models and they can work well. I agree they are exceptionally strong so you do need to use a fixing method that is strong enough to allow removal without damage. The force is at its maximum in a vertical plane but not as strong in the horizontal plane. I usually try to devise a sliding mechanism that removes the magnet away from the fixing. Or you could have the magnet(s) in a deck fitting that was removeable with a metal plate (not stainless) in the deck surround. I am sure other have devised similar methods. In any case some form of seal will also be required and for plastic vaseline works well. Colin has advised fitting bilge keels which I agree will help stabilise roll and is one of the names I believe you were asking about. Fast planing craft use strakes along the hull to deflect water and warships have a sloped coaming forrard of a hatch to deflect water.
Please do post how you progress as water ingress is a concern for all sailing modellers.
dave976

Re fridge magnets, they would be ok but those small rare magnets can be a bit too strong and cause damage when trying to get them apart.

Hi Scott,


Give a look on Amazon or your local pound shop or maybe even a local hobby shop too!

Also, when you add the Ballast place it as close to the center Of the Model as possible!

Add Ballast torwards the Aft end of the Model!

Bring her down till the Black is barely touching the water!

See if that helps!

Cheers,

Ed-

Hi Scott,

Peejay's recommendation is right!

I would use these:

https://www.amazon.com/Magnets-Refrigerator-Cylinder-Whiteboard-Miniature/dp/B0936M3WPK/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2TKURDCXRJV5D&keywords=malibdium%2Bmagnets&qid=1674353747&sprefix=malibdium%2Bmagnets%2Caps%2C321&sr=8-1&th=1

Give a look on Amazon or your local pound shop or maybe even a local hobby shop too!

Also, when you add the Ballast place it as close to the center Of the Model as possible!

Add Ballast torwards the Aft end of the Model!

Bring her down till the Black is barely touching the water!

See if that helps!

Cheers,

Ed-

For the rear of the hatch, you can use small magnets. Do an internet search to find suppliers. They are strong enough these days that even airplane modelers use them.

The force of the magnet will be strong enough that you can use a strip of rubber at the bottom of the hatch to seal out water intrusion.

Hi John

Yes she's kept away from open water and used on a small boating pond. She's fairly stable as is though it's only when pushing through a headwind that the stern is a little low. Bow is fine though just trying to work out a way to keep the stern area higher. I might re do the ballast again. Possibly have over done it there. When going slow all is well it's when throttle is increased she wants to dig the stern down. Might try pushing the ballast forward a little more and see how she sits then. Thank you for you're words as it helps with getting this perfect

Regards
Scott

Hi Scott,

In addition to the various responses already posted, I must add that your "plastic magic" Revell display model conversion is in all probability a little small for open-water sailing.

I have completed a number of such models which being small are really great for steering completions around the harbour - or on small pools in the park.

However, on larger lakes or on open water, they can definitely be over-powered by any notable wind and\or waves. Thus with a 12-18 inch long converted plastic model even a 5-knot wind may well be too much.

In short, please keep your model for calm conditions and leave the blowy conditions to model yachts or to those with larger powerboats.

If not, please at least ensure you have plenty of build on buoyancy such as cork or polystyrene - - it could well save your carefully built model from a watery grave!!

With best wishes. John😊😊😊😊😊😊

Hi Scott, reading this blog my thoughts on reducing roll and giving better stability would be to fit a pair of bilge keels, this will also save having to add extra ballast. Many fishing boats are fitted this way allowing for hauling the catch over the side.
I hope you find this useful, cheers Colin.

Lead free shot from a fishing tackle shop is good, you can mix it with adhesive and make a sort of 'concrete', it makes it nice and easy to apply to awkward to get at areas inside the hull. Re hatch securing, a small hole drilled either side through superstructure and coaming allows pins to be inserted to stop it blowing off.

Hi Dave it's a static Revell kit converted to RC. I've lips on the front hatch that the upper structure sits upon though the rear the hatch sits flush with the decking so couldn't make anything work with it. I had the idea of permanently sealing it and hope the motors and esc's would last a lifetime. Our pond is fairly open and since we're fairly coastal there's often high winds. I've tested how much she will list in the bath before going over so that's not a worry it's just trying to minimise water getting on deck. I can't remember what the strips on boats are called that deflect bow and side waves when moving?

Scott

Hi Scott
Water will seek through the smallest of gaps/holes as anyone who sails a model yacht will testify. Hatches need to be secured just like on the real thing. Ideally you need some form of screw fitting that pulls the surfaces together with a sealing compound between the faces (vaseline). There are many ways but the simplest work best if frequent access is required. A lip or two at the front edge of a hatch can work well with some form of locking screw(s) at the rear. A coaming will also help but this may not be true to scale. My Al Khubar tug used to flood in anything but calm conditions and I eventually added a coaming all round the previously flush hatch which fitted over the coaming and was clamped in place with lips all round worked by a rotating fitting on the hatch. If roll is a problem you would be better adding the lead strip to the inside hull sides as this will better inhibit the effect as the roll will need to lift the lead.
Nice looking model. Is it a kit, plan or scratchbuilt?
dave976