If you go for the terrylene/dacron, the eyelet holes can be formed with a pointed soldering pencil. I felt this didn't weaken the fabric as much. The melted material somewhat reinforces the edge of the hole. I am going with white nylon eyelets

For my schooner I used the guidance from Gary Webb he designed and sails several sailing boats and has a world wide following. His videos are on YouTube and is approachable via email.

My wife made my cotton poplin sails for the schooner after following Gary’s tutorial.

Last two photos are one of Gary’s builds.

Hi Flaxybuck, agree entirely, I also favour the jackline closely held against the back of the mast. I found an easy way to do this, also using 1mm carbon fibre rod.
I used some very small split pins about 1cm long. Pre-drill mast for a tight fit and use a glue to keep them in place. When drilling try and keep them in line but it is not critical.

I use dress maker hooks spread open to less than 1cm. Sew them in place evenly up the sail making sure they do not clash with the split pins position on the mast. If using Mylar film or some man made fbres then superglue works well.

The rod should slide easily through the heads of the split pins, and hook the dressmaker connectors through the rod. Retrieving the rod completely releases the sails.

For the older prototype sailing boats, you may need mast hoops.
Mast hoops are easy to make from brass hard wire but anneal it first, ie run a length of it through the flame to red hot and quench in water. Wind the wire around appropriate dowel as many times you need hoops and the wire will stay in place and not spring to a larger diameter.

The diameter of the hoop should be 25% greater than the mast diameter. After some time the wire will regain its' hardness.

Use some Xuron cutters to cut into loops, these give a clean cut and then solder the joints and when cleaned up paint or spray mid brown.
Each loop needs to be sewn to the sail.

I have done this a few times now.

Regards
Roy

Hi flaxbybuck, the last sentence seems to fit with my way of thinking.

Roy nailed it! 😊
But, must admit that I've been known to butcher an old cotton dress shirt from time to time for a couple of pond yachts. 😂😂😂

Sail making is not so difficult, but first you need to decide what you want to achieve.
If you are looking for total replication of the real thing then you need to study plans and photographs to determine the features you wish to replicate. Some will be too small to bother with whilst others might be a notable feature that you feel should be done.
On the other hand you may choose to dispense with complete realism for a more practical solution that will enable you to sail the yacht without undue difficulty. This approach might involve just a single sail servo that operates all the sails.
You might opt for an 'in-between' solution that couples the most important features with ease of operation.
The bottom line is - who do you want to satisfy ? If it is yourself then you have free reign to do whatever works for you, and whatever you feel is OK. 😉

Hi Chris I went to Nylet some 30+ years ago now for advice and was treated very well. Whilst listening to what must be oft repeated info, I watched a set of panelled sails being made at amazing speed.

I bought a lot of bits and still have some left in small packets. If you buy the eyelets these look neat if fitted onto matching washers.
You can also get a suitable size punch to form the rivet / eyelet through the sail onto the washer.

Not cheap as you have to pay for quality.
Roy

Hello Roy and hello Rogal, greetings to all modelers.

Well Roy wrote a great post.
If I had been able to read it a few years ago, your information would have been invaluable to me and I would have also asked you other specific questions.

I also had to deal with the sail problem. I will talk about it shortly while continuing to illustrate the model. Your opinion on the matter, even a critical one, would still be appreciated.

I asked many model sites on YouTube what type of material they used. My need was twofold: I had to use a fabric that was not too modern to respect the historicity of the model but, at the same time, functional for real sailing.
For a previous RC model I didn't have too many problems because the sails were there but they didn't have a real function, only aesthetic.

Thanks for that Roycv, had to do a bit of surfing though!. Bowsie??see photo1
Also the photo I used, was as I bought her, she has new bow and stern railings plus I’ve rubbed down and re sprayed the hull and revarnished the main cabin.
Photo 2 as she is now

Hello Rogal18,
I would agree roycv, is a fount of so much relevant knowledge it is amazing and pointing you in the direction of Nylet is to be commended. I would like to know half of what Frank Parsons has forgotten about sails and rigs.
I spoke to him recently about my Inga and sails and was astounded at the lead times which drift into months, they are so busy so put your order in early.
Like you I am going to enlist the "boss" for help on this bit of the project but unlike you I have a long way to go yet to worry about sails and rig.
I will be following your progress with interest, we might be able to start a fleet of Inga`s on this site soon.
Best regards ChrisG

Hi Roger hope all well. I had a look at your Inga so far, beautiful job!

Sails,
with the masts you have the part of the sail that slides into the 'luff groove' (mast slot) is best dealt with by sewing a seam allowing for a length of wire to slide inside the seam so it locks the sail into the groove.

When cutting out the sail, the longest edge of the sail should line up with the weft of the material. That is where the material does not strerch. This is true for all triangular sails.

The kit wood for the sail booms is similar to the mast construction, with a slot etc.
But this is not the best idea as it prevents the lower part of the sail forming an aerofoil shape.

I have used shirt material white in this case. Any close weave flexible material that is thin and looks right. Do not be tempted to go for coloured material for a scale model yacht.

The sail where it attaches to the mast should come out and just fold at an angle.
If it bends you have the wrong material as it will never perform the function of driving the yacht. I learnt that the hard way 40 odd years ago!

I fit the smallest eye type rivets at the corners, they have to take the strain of holding the sails in place or hauled up.

Nylet sell these and indeed will make you the sails. The sails for Inga IV are listed as white dacron (terylene) at £149. They also sell a booklet on making your own sails for £8,
They are excellent sails but you might want to ask your wife nicely and best not to tell her the market price!

I suggest you make templates from card I always save my cornflakes packet boxes. Draw a long arrow for the direction of weft on each sail template.

On your sails the weft direction will be at the rear for the main and mizzen mast and at the bow end for the jib.
The fore stay wire will go from the bow to top of mast and I hang the jib on this.

I use dress fasteners but only the small loop part. I gently bend this around so that the small loops are opposite each other and then sew this to the fore part of the jib.
So make sure you can thread the fore stay through the loops before connecting it. There will need to be an eye at each corner allowing bowsies for adjusting the position of the sails.

I adjust the sail heights to be level at the base, it looks better. Also bowsies should all line up and be as unobtrusive as possible. I say that because if you take photographs anything white stands out rather a lot.

These days I also spray the finished sails with a waterproofing clear spray as sold by shoe shops for waterproofing shoes. I saw it on Dragons Den and went out to buy some the next day!
Roy

Nylet website, they sell everything!

https://www.nylet.co.uk/catalog.pdf

Rogal 118 a good morning
i would contact this man. He 's an expert and a fantastic sailor in A class modelsailing. i m shure he can inform you on the materialto be used for the sails
PETER WILES IN POOLE