Hello Tim, my boat uses one geared motor linked to the paddle wheels via a chain drive. Steering is very effective by making a clip on rudder extension. The driven paddle wheels are very effective at driving the boat. Be a shame to have paddles that just freewheel although I have seen this done on another model. My paddles sit just deepening to bite into the water. It also reverses quite well, much to my surprise! My hull does have shallow keel strips about 8 mm running fore to aft. Hope this helps. Tony

I'm sorry if I've rudely "captured" this Topic, however I would really like to get this boat to sail. many thanks to those who've replied. As Alesandrao and Tomarak say I think the answer is to have two bilge keels running the length of the hull. Another thought is to have a prop and rudder for propulsion and steering. The two paddles would then just be freewheeling as at the moment they churn the water but do nothing else. Any thoughts gratefully accepted. As a postscript, I have a photograph of my great uncle and a friend boarding a very similar boat on an African river (about 1920)
Best wishes Tim

Hi Tim, what in Italian we call "scarroccio" and which perhaps translates into English with the word "leeway" or "sideslipping" is natural in all ships but in this type it is very accentuated.

I have no experience with boats of this type, i.e. with paddle wheels, but I think that what Tomarrack wrote is the right solution (even if he doesn't really believe it).
It would at least be worth a try. I would give it a try before giving up.
I would place the thin longitudinal blade that runs from bow to stern in the center of the hull, as if it were a keel. This blade should be almost the entire length of the hull and about 2cm high.
I don't know what the bottom of your hull is like, I imagine it is flat so I would create a T profile to facilitate positioning.
Logically I wouldn't fix it definitively but I would first do some tests to test its effectiveness.

You may ask why don't royal ships need them? RC models, even if they exploit the same physical principles, are found in very different conditions. The same goes for the rudders.
Those who build galleons never use scale rudders. He is forced to oversize them in an astonishing way.
They are so much bigger that I remove the additional "prosthesis" when they are displayed statically, because it is absolutely unsightly.
In fact, at low speeds, without the flow produced by the propeller, rudders are generally ineffective (in scale models).

If you want to make an effective turn, in my opinion, the best method is (once again) Tomarack. Logically to do as he did you have to have two paddle wheels with one it's not possible.
If he wants, he can even shoot on site.

Alternatively, if you have only one wheel, you need to increase the size of the rudder (but you can't ignore the keel).
If you have photos of your model you could open your own topic and we could write our suggestions there. I could make you some drawings to better explain what I mean, I don't know if I was clear.

It's clear that what I wrote refers to mild weather conditions, none of us goes out in rain or storms but I think the minimum objective is to not be stopped by a light breeze or have an uncontrollable boat even in the absence of wind.

P.S.
I agree with what Tony wrote.

Don't feel alone with winds causing havoc with a boat having a large superstructure compared to the hull depth. Just something you have to live with. My towboat and the "Bill E. Bonze" Springer do the same thing. In the case of the later, the performance is quite different from my other Springers (same hulls) on even mild breeze days. Depending on the day's wind conditions, I might not put one of those boats in the water.

Lew
Florida 😎, USA

Very nice model, indeed!
I made the hull of my model about 1 cm deeper, mainly because of the weight of the homemade paddlewheels.
I also have problems with the strong wind, the model behaves as if it were sliding on ice. I think it would help to glue several longitudinal strips to the bottom, which would serve as a keel.
Hopefully it could help.
Tom

Hello Tim, I admit to using this boat on calmer days is best, as with any paddle steamer! I have opted for straight drive to the paddles with rudder control. I have added a clip on rudder extension that greatly improves steering. The 12 volt battery brings it down to just above waterline, the weight helps with wind drift. It is a calm weather boat though. Hope this helps !

I was given this boat several years ago. It is a lovely boat but mine is uncontrollable. The slightest breeze blows it across the lake and the turning circle is non existent. Any suggestions welcome.
Best wishes Tim

I have been using small chain drives in place of cogged belts as you show. They are nice because you can custom size the length you need very easily. They come in various sizes and and different cogs. I get mine from McMaster-Carr, in the USA . They have an amazing amount of items for machinists and a source for hobbyists.
Len

Yes you are correct, well spotted. The drive cog is slightly larger than the one on the shaft. This is due to the space allowed. The speed is controlled by an electronic speed controller . The geared motor draws little current so on 12 volt will run for hours on a 3 amphour battery. To much throttle just whisks the water. The paddle wheels are quite wide with a lot of paddle in the water providing power. The mist steam unit output is linked to the throttle as is the sound generator.

Nice build! I have question, you stated "The gearing on the chain drive helps with further speed reduction." It looks like the motor has the larger sprocket and the wheel has the smaller one so the wheel will turn faster than the motor. Just curious.

Lew
Florida ⛱️, USA 🇺🇸

The speed is controlled on the Lulanga by an electronic speed controller, half speed on the transmitter throttle is more than enough. Paddles seem to have an optimum speed before they just tend to froth up the water with no effect. The gearing on the chain drive helps with further speed reduction. Steering is good via a single rudder, I have an additional clip on rudder extension that gives more surface area for greater turning effect at slow speed. . My Celia Jane and Kitty Thames Barge models use the same clip on rudder extension system, removable when on show! I sail IOM, Micro Magic and Fiesta model yachts as well. Something for all weather's. Keeps me out of trouble !! Tony

Tony, very good, I hope there is wind and then calms down so you can sail with both types of RC ship models (wheeled ships and sailing ships)
This model is very interesting but sailing, for me, is the most beautiful to do and see.
Which sailing models do you have?

A curiosity: I saw that your electric motor is reduced to 300 rpm. Aren't there too many? Is there an additional reduction that I haven't seen or do the blades just spin that fast?
Sorry if the questions may seem stupid but I have no experience with wheeled ships.

Very Cool!

I will try and take some video of her sailing this weekend if the weather permits. If very windy the model yachts will come out instead! Tony

Hi Tony, you did well to create your own "harbour".
You did a great job.
Do you have any sailing videos, would love to see them.

Lulonga plans and hull available from Sarik Hobbies in UK.

Any pictures of her on the water 💧, a lovely looking vessel. Were the plans online or ordered?👍

Interesting. I never considered a paddle boat.


Classy 😎😎😎


Isaac