After weeks of waiting for the kit to be delivered from Italy I re-ordered instead from Cornwall Model Boats and received it next day. The box was smaller than the one for my Riva but at a quick glance all the parts seem to be there. Now that I have received the kit for this motor sailor I can start to plan how to attach a detachable keel and a detachable extension to the rudder. There is an optional motorisation pack available which uses one motor but drives two props through a gear system. Myself and Roycv are thinking of using 2 separate motors but I'll check space available. Not sure whether with potentially 3 sails we can get away with one winch because it looks like space is at a premium. I must say the Amati Italian Runabout kit had very much clearer build instructions than this kit with lots of photos of various stages. Before I can start building this I need to resolve a problem with my newly fitted fireboat's fire monitors! Hopefully my blog will help to fill in missing information. It might be a slow build log because I'm limited with pains in my hands how much I can do at a time - so to those followers please be patient!😊 Some photos of the box content:-
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After weeks of waiting for the kit to be delivered from Italy I re-ordered instead from Cornwall Model Boats and received it next day. The box was smaller than the one for my Riva but at a quick glance all the parts seem to be there. Now that I have received the kit for this motor sailor I can start to plan how to attach a detachable keel and a detachable extension to the rudder. There is an optional motorisation pack available which uses one motor but drives two props through a gear system. Myself and Roycv are thinking of using 2 separate motors but I'll check space available. Not sure whether with potentially 3 sails we can get away with one winch because it looks like space is at a premium. I must say the Amati Italian Runabout kit had very much clearer build instructions than this kit with lots of photos of various stages. Before I can start building this I need to resolve a problem with my newly fitted fireboat's fire monitors! Hopefully my blog will help to fill in missing information. It might be a slow build log because I'm limited with pains in my hands how much I can do at a time - so to those followers please be patient!😊 Some photos of the box content:-
H i Duncan all good stuff you have ordered and will all fit together.
If you want more advice I do need to know how many channels your radio has.
The 2 esc's will plug into the mixer and that will give you a single control on the transmitter for both of the motors to run.
Check which o/p is which. So left rudder slows down the port motor. You can share the power battery with the 2 esc's. Remember to cut one red wire in one of the esc's servo leads.
The single line from the mixer goes into the signal wire in the socket end of one Y lead tail and the rudder servo lead goes in the other, then the Y lead goes into the rudder socket on the receiver.
You can do all this with a standard 4 channel RC set. Left hand up/down to throttle. Right hand up/down to winch, remember to set it so that when tx. stick is fully away from you the sails are out. Right hand left/right is the rudder.
I should not complicate it further. There is no diagram needed.
Relax and enjoy the build.
I am just making a second sail set, this will give me 2 options, on my Gracia and it does not matter how high or low I put the yacht my back still aches! If it all works I will photograph the yacht and put it into My Harbour.
Roy
Finally my hands weren't aching today so I've made a start on the Mantua Bruma. I've punched out all the frame parts and filed the laser burns off the joints. I then dry assembled the pieces and now I have an idea of the hull shape. Originally I thought I would glue all the frames in place and then fit the 6 reinforcement frames afterwards and these are located just below the deck. Having found lining up the frames and the reinforcements was a bit tricky I have decided because the Aliphatic glue goes off reasonably quickly I will assemble it in 3 stages doing the ribs and the corresponding reinforcements in the same group stage.
The mounting base for the motor is specific for the optional motor and gear system. This uses one motor to drive both propellers. I was informed that this was very noisy so I've opted for two motors with each driving a propeller. Therefore some modification will be required! Time to start to ponder the mounting! Has anyone done this before with a Bruma kit please?😊 I will sand the burns from the rest of the frames and also feather the front and back frames to accept the planks with a better area of contact.
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Finally my hands weren't aching today so I've made a start on the Mantua Bruma. I've punched out all the frame parts and filed the laser burns off the joints. I then dry assembled the pieces and now I have an idea of the hull shape. Originally I thought I would glue all the frames in place and then fit the 6 reinforcement frames afterwards and these are located just below the deck. Having found lining up the frames and the reinforcements was a bit tricky I have decided because the Aliphatic glue goes off reasonably quickly I will assemble it in 3 stages doing the ribs and the corresponding reinforcements in the same group stage.
The mounting base for the motor is specific for the optional motor and gear system. This uses one motor to drive both propellers. I was informed that this was very noisy so I've opted for two motors with each driving a propeller. Therefore some modification will be required! Time to start to ponder the mounting! Has anyone done this before with a Bruma kit please?😊 I will sand the burns from the rest of the frames and also feather the front and back frames to accept the planks with a better area of contact.
Hiya. I intend to use the motors with 7.2v battery. I have a piece of 8 core ply that is exactly 3.5" wide x 13" x 7/16" which I thought will be ideal to shape for the keel. I'll just shorten it! Fitting the securing rods sounds as though it will be a challenge so they don't turn when tightening the nuts. I will have to think about how to follow your method. Thanks for your help and advice. 😊
Hiya. I intend to use the motors with 7.2v battery. I have a piece of 8 core ply that is exactly 3.5" wide x 13" x 7/16" which I thought will be ideal to shape for the keel. I'll just shorten it! Fitting the securing rods sounds as though it will be a challenge so they don't turn when tightening the nuts. I will have to think about how to follow your method. Thanks for your help and advice. 😊
Following Roy's suggested design, I've now created the fixings for a removeable keel. This consists of two stainless steel tubes fitted into the keel which will accept two 3mm diameter S/S machined rods which are attached to the removeable keel. The rods are secured into the removeable keel with two collets which have been sunk into the thickness of the keel. Roy suggested that I should make sure the rods don't turn when when tightening the nuts in the hull. To this end I have fitted 2x 3mm bolts into the collets rather than using the supplied grub screws (see photo). These are longer than the depth of the bolt hole and therefore stand out from the collet which creates a 'stop' as I didn't drill completely through the wood. The holes were then filled with Araldite glue. I was advised by a club member not to use the Rapid Araldite as apparently it goes soft in water so I used the slow setting original type. Again following Roy's suggestion, I glued one of the 3mm ply backing pieces into place which will cover the cuts in the keel for the tubes and let it go hard. This then preserves the shape and dimensions of the keel. I then cut the two slots for the 2 keel tubes, spot glued the tubes in place with CA whilst the removeable keel was in place. I then used the epoxy glue to cement the 83mm x 4.8mm tubes in place and added the other 3mm ply to the other side of the keel and clamped them up very tightly over 24hrs. Now that the method of fixing the keel has been sorted I can now carry on with the rest of the 'normal' kit build! 😊 Last photo shows dry assembly of the frames with frames at the bow and stern with chamfered edges.
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Bruma keel design sorted in order to also use the boat with sails
Following Roy's suggested design, I've now created the fixings for a removeable keel. This consists of two stainless steel tubes fitted into the keel which will accept two 3mm diameter S/S machined rods which are attached to the removeable keel. The rods are secured into the removeable keel with two collets which have been sunk into the thickness of the keel. Roy suggested that I should make sure the rods don't turn when when tightening the nuts in the hull. To this end I have fitted 2x 3mm bolts into the collets rather than using the supplied grub screws (see photo). These are longer than the depth of the bolt hole and therefore stand out from the collet which creates a 'stop' as I didn't drill completely through the wood. The holes were then filled with Araldite glue. I was advised by a club member not to use the Rapid Araldite as apparently it goes soft in water so I used the slow setting original type. Again following Roy's suggestion, I glued one of the 3mm ply backing pieces into place which will cover the cuts in the keel for the tubes and let it go hard. This then preserves the shape and dimensions of the keel. I then cut the two slots for the 2 keel tubes, spot glued the tubes in place with CA whilst the removeable keel was in place. I then used the epoxy glue to cement the 83mm x 4.8mm tubes in place and added the other 3mm ply to the other side of the keel and clamped them up very tightly over 24hrs. Now that the method of fixing the keel has been sorted I can now carry on with the rest of the 'normal' kit build! 😊 Last photo shows dry assembly of the frames with frames at the bow and stern with chamfered edges.
Started planking the deck with alternate limewood and walnut strips. The planking follows the shape of the hull so clamping is necessary and therefore can only do a bit at a time before running out of clamps! I've been dry fitting a walnut and limewood plank bending them to follow the curve and then marking the outline with a pencil. This helps to make sure I'm not putting Aliphatic glue where it isn't needed and causing a problem for the next plank! I decided to plank across the hatch and then cut away the planks when the glue has dried. I'm now getting to the point where the clamps are not big enough to hold the inner planks in place. Perhaps have to use masking tape. Any better suggestions? It is a slow process but rewarding to see it coming together. Whilst the last lot of planks were drying I have been doing the infills between the hull ribs. For this they recommend using one of the wider planks that will be used for the hull planking. I will then trim when completely dry. Hoping to get a rudder servo, UBEC and possibly a battery from the Blackpool Model Show this coming weekend.😊
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Started planking the deck with alternate limewood and walnut strips. The planking follows the shape of the hull so clamping is necessary and therefore can only do a bit at a time before running out of clamps! I've been dry fitting a walnut and limewood plank bending them to follow the curve and then marking the outline with a pencil. This helps to make sure I'm not putting Aliphatic glue where it isn't needed and causing a problem for the next plank! I decided to plank across the hatch and then cut away the planks when the glue has dried. I'm now getting to the point where the clamps are not big enough to hold the inner planks in place. Perhaps have to use masking tape. Any better suggestions? It is a slow process but rewarding to see it coming together. Whilst the last lot of planks were drying I have been doing the infills between the hull ribs. For this they recommend using one of the wider planks that will be used for the hull planking. I will then trim when completely dry. Hoping to get a rudder servo, UBEC and possibly a battery from the Blackpool Model Show this coming weekend.😊
Hi Duncan, I usually pin the planks down to hold in place.
When the pin goes into the wood it does not make a hole it pushes the wood grain apart.
So when the planks are in place and dry and the pins removed, use a cocktail stick to place a drop of water on each hole.
The water enables the wood grain to expand back to size and the hole vanishes.
Good luck
Roy
I've decided to test the positioning of the equipment before planking as it is easier to visualise and line up everything whilst you can see through the hull! Nothing is currently fastened down. Only positioned at present. The keel tubes are to be supported by a metal cross member which will be epoxied to the wood cross member which is between the 2 keel tubes. These will take the keel bolts as shown in previous posts. Any thoughts about my planned installation which will be done after the hull is complete?
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I've decided to test the positioning of the equipment before planking as it is easier to visualise and line up everything whilst you can see through the hull! Nothing is currently fastened down. Only positioned at present. The keel tubes are to be supported by a metal cross member which will be epoxied to the wood cross member which is between the 2 keel tubes. These will take the keel bolts as shown in previous posts. Any thoughts about my planned installation which will be done after the hull is complete?
Hello Duncan
You are doing so very well 👍 and have left me far behind. The deck looks great and below decks layout to be proud of. I questioned in my mind 2 motors but realise that you intend it to be a motor sailor in its truest sense and have yet to be convinced about the beauty of sail.
Let me advise you that it is to be recommended. keep up the great work and I look forward to seeing it finished.
All the best ChrisG
Hi Ross, Thank you for your nice comments. You asked about the planks. The limewood strips in the kit are 1x3x400mm and the walnut 1x1x400mm. I had 50 of each. I have bought them before at a length of 1metre. Hope this helps. Cheers Duncan
Hi Ross, Thank you for your nice comments. You asked about the planks. The limewood strips in the kit are 1x3x400mm and the walnut 1x1x400mm. I had 50 of each. I have bought them before at a length of 1metre. Hope this helps. Cheers Duncan
After a lot of deliberation I think I have finally decided on the layout of the winch and lines etc. The corner pulleys are on elastic cord to enable it to take up some possible slack. The plastic tubes will take the sail sheets out to the deck area. The next problem is where to put the receiver, splitter and the two ESCs. I'm thinking of making a box to mount them under the middle cabin roof to contain all these electrics. All the setup of the corner winch pulleys needed to be done before planking otherwise it would have been very difficult - if not impossible. 😊
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After a lot of deliberation I think I have finally decided on the layout of the winch and lines etc. The corner pulleys are on elastic cord to enable it to take up some possible slack. The plastic tubes will take the sail sheets out to the deck area. The next problem is where to put the receiver, splitter and the two ESCs. I'm thinking of making a box to mount them under the middle cabin roof to contain all these electrics. All the setup of the corner winch pulleys needed to be done before planking otherwise it would have been very difficult - if not impossible. 😊
I'm very surprised that you do the electrical setup first and then the plating.
I did the exact opposite but I'm always fascinated by seeing new (new to me) working methodologies.
The electrical configuration is very tidy and precise, exemplary.
I am very curious about the system you will use to control the sails, I hope you will insert many photos because that is what interests me most.
The Bruma della Mantua is an excellent choice.
P.S. Are sail winches like the one used by you still on the market (even online), that you know of?
Hi Alessandro,
In reply to your question I got the winch servo from Howes Models in the UK. It is a King Max 4 turn sail winch and it only cost £9.99!
The reason I have done all the layout of the equipment as it is easier to plan and line up when you can see through the hull. Lining up the motors and the prop shafts is also much easier when you can see through the hull sides. In addition, fitting the plastic leader tubes and the small corner winches would have been impossible without being able to put your hands through the sides of the hull. The motors I will leave in place and cover with plastic bags for the remainder of the build. Now that I have the position of the servos I will remove these until later.
I used a similar method when building my Riva Aquarama because once the sides are on access to the fixing of the rudders is near impossible! It worked well. I have also done a build blog of how I did the Riva model called Amati Riva Aquarama. Hope this is helpful. 😊 As you probably realise that this is not a standard build of the Mantua Bruma as I'm trying to make a version that will also carry sails rather than just be motor powered. For this reason a lot of time is pondering how to accomplish things and the small amount of space doesn't help - but it is a challenge! The build blog is also slow because I have trouble at times with painful hands - a price for getting old!! 😊
Hi Alessandro,
In reply to your question I got the winch servo from Howes Models in the UK. It is a King Max 4 turn sail winch and it only cost £9.99!
The reason I have done all the layout of the equipment as it is easier to plan and line up when you can see through the hull. Lining up the motors and the prop shafts is also much easier when you can see through the hull sides. In addition, fitting the plastic leader tubes and the small corner winches would have been impossible without being able to put your hands through the sides of the hull. The motors I will leave in place and cover with plastic bags for the remainder of the build. Now that I have the position of the servos I will remove these until later.
I used a similar method when building my Riva Aquarama because once the sides are on access to the fixing of the rudders is near impossible! It worked well. I have also done a build blog of how I did the Riva model called Amati Riva Aquarama. Hope this is helpful. 😊 As you probably realise that this is not a standard build of the Mantua Bruma as I'm trying to make a version that will also carry sails rather than just be motor powered. For this reason a lot of time is pondering how to accomplish things and the small amount of space doesn't help - but it is a challenge! The build blog is also slow because I have trouble at times with painful hands - a price for getting old!! 😊
Yes, of course, it was clear that you also intended to command the sails.
This is precisely what makes the construction so interesting.
You're doing a great job, it's definitely one of the most informative.
Hi Alessandro,
Here is the link to the winch servo that I'm using. Unfortunately they are currently out of stock of this particular model. They also sell one that is more expensive with metal gears.
https://howesmodels.co.uk/product/4-turn-standard-size-drum-winch-servo/?mot_tcid=358900c6-00ba-434a-b484-a92ffe7e9aac
They also sell a slightly more expensive one with metal gears.
Cheers
Duncan
Here is the link to the winch servo that I'm using. Unfortunately they are currently out of stock of this particular model. They also sell one that is more expensive with metal gears.
It's strange, but this type of servomechanism is no longer on the market, even Hobby King has it in the catalog but the product is no longer available.
I couldn't even find it on Aliexpress, maybe I'm not good at web searches.
Anyway, thanks so much for the link, Duncan.
regards
Roy
If you want more advice I do need to know how many channels your radio has.
The 2 esc's will plug into the mixer and that will give you a single control on the transmitter for both of the motors to run.
Check which o/p is which. So left rudder slows down the port motor. You can share the power battery with the 2 esc's. Remember to cut one red wire in one of the esc's servo leads.
The single line from the mixer goes into the signal wire in the socket end of one Y lead tail and the rudder servo lead goes in the other, then the Y lead goes into the rudder socket on the receiver.
You can do all this with a standard 4 channel RC set. Left hand up/down to throttle. Right hand up/down to winch, remember to set it so that when tx. stick is fully away from you the sails are out. Right hand left/right is the rudder.
I should not complicate it further. There is no diagram needed.
Relax and enjoy the build.
I am just making a second sail set, this will give me 2 options, on my Gracia and it does not matter how high or low I put the yacht my back still aches! If it all works I will photograph the yacht and put it into My Harbour.
Roy