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๐ฌ Re: Final launch day
2 months ago by ๐บ๐ธ ToraDog (
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Very Nice! Great photos as well!๐
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Remove Ads ๐ฌ Re: Final launch day
2 months ago by ๐ฌ๐ง roycv (
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Hi Duncan I must be slow! Just cottoned on to the bottle and the launching ceremony!
Roy ▲
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๐ฌ Re: Final launch day
2 months ago by ๐ฌ๐ง roycv (
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Hi Duncan she looks great, you must be very pleased with yoursef and deservedly so too. And the photos are excellent as well.
As far as test sails go if you use Rip Stop nylon you can cut them out with scissors and the edges will not fray. I keep looking at the kit but I have to finish 2 other boats first. Decision based on my age, I was 87 last week and any unfinished models have little value until completed. Energy is good once enthused but the next day somewhat dulled. Did the electric motors do the job? If so what are they? A few months ago I bought some smaller sub C cells to make up into 7.2 volt batteries. I have a mini welder and have made up a couple of configurations to suit small models. They are 4/5ths. sub C and 2800mAh and are 2 off 3 cell units so they sit across the keel. They now drive my 16 inch long Huntsman at planing speed and last a good half hour. I am working on another boat a small fishing boat ex decorative model which should be on the water in a week or so. I have been a bit busy. Best regards and well done, Roy ▲
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๐ฌ Re: Final launch day
2 months ago by ๐ฌ๐ง Steve P (
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Lovely build
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๐ฌ Re: Final launch day
2 months ago by ๐ฎ๐น AlessandroSPQR (
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Wonderful!
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๐ฌ Re: Getting near to completion
3 months ago by ๐ฌ๐ง roycv (
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Hi Duncan she looks really nice, well done. Your photos are definitely inspiring.
Have you got any rip stop nylon? It cuts out easily and if you strengthen the corners with adhesive sail material then it will tie on. How do you propose to connect the sails to the mast? There are several options. A jack line about 1mm away from the back of the mast with dress hooks sewn onto the sails at intervals. A similar system with a jack line but using good sellotape holding white 1mm plastic diameter tubing. This is cut into 1cm lengths and hardly shows but here the jack line needs to thread through the tubes first and then tightly secured. Instead of a wire jack line then try tiny eye hooks, or very small split pins are even better, push in holes drilled up the back of the mast and glued in every 15 cms or so. The loop hole in the split pin (they are small about 8mm long) should take a piece of piano wire through the sail dress hooks or tubes. I have also used carbon fibre stiff ▲
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๐ฌ Re: Getting near to completion
3 months ago by ๐ฎ๐น AlessandroSPQR (
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Hi Duncan, sorry to repeat myself, but this ship is beautiful.
You've chosen a fantastic model and you're doing it in the best way. So far this is the most beautiful Bruma I've seen. I hope you can sail it even with just the wind. It's fortunate you found the right parts, like the gooseneck. I couldn't find one at the time and had to make it myself. It's great news that your nephew is starting his first boat. I hope he likes it and continues. ▲
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๐ฌ Re: Tank test
3 months ago by ๐ฌ๐ง DuncanP (
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Thank you Alessandro! I really appreciate your comments especially coming from such an accomplished model boat builder as yourself. It's taking a long time but it's getting there slowly. Thanks again๐
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๐ฌ Re: Tank test
3 months ago by ๐ฎ๐น AlessandroSPQR (
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Hi Duncan, besides being beautiful, it looks great in the water.
You have chosen to build a magnificent model and you are doing it very very well. ▲
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๐ฌ Re: Made some progress!
4 months ago by ๐ฌ๐ง DuncanP (
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Hi Ronald. No I'm planning to have it either running on the motors or sailing under full sail. I spent a lot of time working out how to arrange a removable keel and also planning how to get two motors, battery and a winch into the small space! Then recently I had to think how to get the electrics safely stored away. Roy recommended using two motors rather than a single one mentioned in the kit which has a gear box because apparently this version is very noisy. We also discussed keel arrangements. It is going to be a lot of trial and error! Initially I will only sail it on the motors and then do the sails later but at least everything will be in place for conversion to sail! Hope this answers your query. Cheers Duncan ๐
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Remove Ads ๐ฌ Re: Made some progress!
4 months ago by ๐จ๐ฆ Ronald (
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Duncan,
Are you planning on modelling the Mantua Bruma, with sail furled? Thus using the electric motors to glide her gently through the harbour and around obstacles, and casually maneuvering in amongst other vessels. ▲
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๐ฌ Re: Made some progress!
4 months ago by ๐ฎ๐น AlessandroSPQR (
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Great, Roy has cleared your doubts.
I have to admit that I am a bit over the top with security and testing. Based on Roy's experience you can skip testing. ▲
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๐ฌ Re: Made some progress!
4 months ago by ๐ฌ๐ง roycv (
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Hi Duncan I have used these esc's for some time now (5+ years). I have run them with 2-3 amps and they do not even get warm. I doubt the motors you are using take as much as 1.5 amps.
So they should be fine the way you have them in a box. However, Alessandro is right for the older generation of esc's where FET's and even older power transistors were used to provide o/p power. So why do the older ones need heat sinks? On power transistors there is a 0.7 volt drop across the emmitter base junction. If the current is 4 amps then the power lost is volts X amps. 0.7 x 4 = 2.8 Watts and this is dissipated as heat into a fin or heat sink. It will need air cooling and gets hot! The next generation saw the o/p power supplied by Mos Fets (Field Effect Transistors). They have just 0.1 volts drop (although different in design) so the power loss is 0.1 X 4 = 0.4 watts and they just get warm, so no large heat sink or power loss. The small esc's as far as I know are a mark / space ratio system and there is almost no loss at all and as the esc's come with all the circuit board almost encapsulated there is no attempt to dissipate any heat from the circuit. They are sold as able to control 10 amps +. Roy ▲
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๐ฌ Re: Made some progress!
4 months ago by ๐ฎ๐น AlessandroSPQR (
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Hi Duncan, let me explain.
Putting electronic components in a closed box is a great idea to preserve them in case water gets into the hold. However, electronic components need air exchange to dissipate heat. For this reason, I recommend you do a test in the bathtub. Leave the motor running continuously (from half an hour to an hour) until the battery is almost flat. Every now and then, test the temperature (with a thermometer it is better but with your hand it is also fine). If the temperature is not excessive then the insulation system you made with the plastic boxes is also fine from that point of view. It's simply a precaution. ▲
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๐ฌ Re: Made some progress!
4 months ago by ๐ฌ๐ง DuncanP (
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Roy - Alessandro mentioned about heat dissipation. I've used those cheap ESC's you recommended. From your experience have you found whether they generate much heat? There are two of them in one plastic container and the other plastic box contains the W-tail mixer and receiver - plus lots of spare wiring!
Any thoughts please? Cheers ▲
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๐ฌ Re: Made some progress!
4 months ago by ๐ฎ๐น AlessandroSPQR (
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Very important progress Duncan.
Great work, take into account the proper heat dissipation of the electrical components. ▲
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๐ฌ Re: Reply to Roy
7 months ago by ๐ฌ๐ง roycv (
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I claim senility and memory complications!!!
I do hope the operation goes well as eyes are so precious. Glad I sent the link though, I live in the present and look forward to the future. The past can often have holes in it. Best Roy ▲
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๐ฌ Re: Painting the hull and advise on NOT following the instructions!
7 months ago by ๐ฌ๐ง roycv (
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Hi, re-reading this thread I note a remark about not having double planking on real ships. Well ships implies large vessels. But the wooden hulls of motor gun/ torpedo boats were first planked and then canvas was applied and then a second planking. Usually double diagonal planking.
It made a sturdy covering and survived the heavy vibrations of multiple high powered engines. Roy ▲
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Remove Ads ๐ฌ Re: Painting the hull and advise on NOT following the instructions!
7 months ago by ๐ฌ๐ง roycv (
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Hi Duncan re your Bruma build, I too queried planking the deck first, and I am not sure what to do. I did find more complete set of building instructions on-line about 14 pages if I remember correctly.
I think they also suggest the deck be planked first. I would tend to agree with your thoughts and get the access spaces sorted out first and then plank. By the way if you have to have a flush hatch with the deck try and make the hatch edges line up with the plank edges as this takes your eye off them. I have had a stop in my boat building for 5 months as I had 2 cataract operations which made previous glasses redundant. So when both eyes were done I had an eye test and now I only need single lens reading glasses. As I had varifocal glasses before there is no distortion of vision now so I can rely on what I see. Distant vision is excellent and OK for driving. Then my trip to Australia came up which is where I am now. I am raring to go when I get back in early March but need to finish my Wild Duck yacht first. Then either Bruma or Trotamares or my Aeronaut Victoria. Best Roy ▲
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๐ฌ Re: Painting the hull and advise on NOT following the instructions!
7 months ago by ๐ฌ๐ง roycv (
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Hi Duncan, You cannot judge where the imperfections lie after planking until the hull is one uniform colour.
I first get a thinned keying of paint or varnish on the hull and then go to any colour for the first coat. I use up the small amounts of paint left over for this. Wet and dry rubbing down and with different left over colours as the rubbing down progresses. This gives you an idea of how far you have rubbed down the paint as various different colours emerge. I have yet to use epoxy or glass cloth on the hulls as for me it is overkill as far as strength goes. I have several hulls that are 30 odd years old and with the 10 or so layers of paint before puttting on the final ones have stood the test of time. But you must waterproof the inside so that the wood does not absorb moistureon the inside. regards Roy ▲
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๐ฌ Re: Painting the hull and advise on NOT following the instructions!
7 months ago by ๐ฎ๐น AlessandroSPQR (
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I'm glad you're back to working on your model, Duncan.
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๐ฌ Re: 1st coat of primer applied
1 year ago by ๐ฎ๐น AlessandroSPQR (
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Hi Duncan, I cut the hull with a simple cutter.
They recommended electric cutters to do it but I didn't trust them, the work was too delicate. To follow the line you want and not the grain you can use a steel ruler, or a mark (pencil, marker, tape, etc. etc.) the important thing is that the first grooves are light, then gradually you can sink and push more because the blade will not take other paths. "Having 'chewed over' all of discussions about fiber glassing the hull I 'chickened out' and instead just applied a coat of Z-epoxy 2 part finishing resin." Excellent decision. ▲
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๐ฌ Re: 1st coat of primer applied
1 year ago by ๐จ๐ฆ RossM (
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CUTTING THROUGH LIMEWOOD
When I was cutting through 3mm pine stock, I found a box cutter had a better grip for control. I would score it 3 to 5 times cutting in about .75mm per stroke ▲
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๐ฌ Re: 1st layer nearing completion
1 year ago by ๐ฎ๐น AlessandroSPQR (
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Hi Duncan I understand you. It's annoying to interrupt work.
I don't have grandchildren, but many other reasons prevent me from continuing the model quickly. Tonight, if I can, I'll paint the cannons. There is another peculiarity in your work. You've built the planking around the propeller shafts. I, however, prefer to complete the planking and then drill it. The differences in model building techniques are always fascinating and I really enjoy looking at other methods. ▲
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Remove Ads ๐ฌ Re: 1st layer nearing completion
1 year ago by ๐ฎ๐น AlessandroSPQR (
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Hi Len, very interesting observation.
I would very much like to discuss this topic with you and the other modelers but if the discussion gets too long, as it is likely to happen, we could disturb Duncan's work. For this reason I prefer to open a separate topic and in this topic continue to comment on the work of Duncan's Bruma. ▲
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๐ฌ Re: 1st layer nearing completion
1 year ago by ๐บ๐ธ Len1 (
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Just a thought on double planking on real ships is that it adds so much weight to the vessel and that could reduce its load carrying capability and therefore revenue. Maybe double planking on warships would make sense.
This just conjecture on my part and not based on any facts. Len ▲
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๐ฌ Re: 1st layer nearing completion
1 year ago by ๐ฌ๐ง DuncanP (
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Hi Alessandro, Building has come to a halt whilst the grand children are staying with us. Two reasons. 1) I have had to remove everything from their bedroom/modelling room and 2) they keep me that busy I have no time!!
The only progress is the 1st layer of planking is complete. Next stage is filling and sanding. I want to do the sanding outside to avoid dust in the house so that will also be weather dependant! Will update the build blog before the second layer starts.๐ ▲
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๐ฌ Re: 1st layer nearing completion
2 years ago by ๐ฎ๐น AlessandroSPQR (
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Hi Duncan, I haven't seen any posts on this forum for a while.
I'm glad you've almost finished the first planking and your method is very interesting. Even though I have always started from the top down to the keel, I think yours could be excellent, I will take it into consideration for next time. P.S. No, I've never heard of "double planking" for real ships. Maybe it will even have been done on some real boats. Why not. I ignore it. I am sure that for all (and I mean all) the scale models I have seen to date, in person or on the internet, made with double planking, no real ship (and I mean none) had double planking. In other words: modeling = double planking is always or almost always used even when real models do not require it. real ships = always or almost always single planking. This is why I can say that double planking is above all a modeling technique. ▲
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๐ฌ Re: Pond Noodle buoyancy
2 years ago by ๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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SPQR - Contrary to your statement, I supposed you never heard of "Double Planking" on real boats?
Lew Florida, USA ▲
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๐ฌ Re: Pond Noodle buoyancy
2 years ago by ๐ฎ๐น AlessandroSPQR (
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Certainly Duncan, it's as you say: the second planking (which only exists in the modeling sector) is usually always easier, because there is already a surface on which to attach the wooden strips.
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