I claim senility and memory complications!!!
I do hope the operation goes well as eyes are so precious.

Glad I sent the link though, I live in the present and look forward to the future. The past can often have holes in it.
Best
Roy

Hi, re-reading this thread I note a remark about not having double planking on real ships. Well ships implies large vessels. But the wooden hulls of motor gun/ torpedo boats were first planked and then canvas was applied and then a second planking. Usually double diagonal planking.
It made a sturdy covering and survived the heavy vibrations of multiple high powered engines.
Roy

Hi Duncan re your Bruma build, I too queried planking the deck first, and I am not sure what to do. I did find more complete set of building instructions on-line about 14 pages if I remember correctly.

I think they also suggest the deck be planked first. I would tend to agree with your thoughts and get the access spaces sorted out first and then plank.
By the way if you have to have a flush hatch with the deck try and make the hatch edges line up with the plank edges as this takes your eye off them.

I have had a stop in my boat building for 5 months as I had 2 cataract operations which made previous glasses redundant. So when both eyes were done I had an eye test and now I only need single lens reading glasses.
As I had varifocal glasses before there is no distortion of vision now so I can rely on what I see.
Distant vision is excellent and OK for driving. Then my trip to Australia came up which is where I am now.
I am raring to go when I get back in early March but need to finish my Wild Duck yacht first. Then either Bruma or Trotamares or my Aeronaut Victoria.

Best
Roy

Hi Duncan, You cannot judge where the imperfections lie after planking until the hull is one uniform colour.
I first get a thinned keying of paint or varnish on the hull and then go to any colour for the first coat. I use up the small amounts of paint left over for this.
Wet and dry rubbing down and with different left over colours as the rubbing down progresses. This gives you an idea of how far you have rubbed down the paint as various different colours emerge.

I have yet to use epoxy or glass cloth on the hulls as for me it is overkill as far as strength goes. I have several hulls that are 30 odd years old and with the 10 or so layers of paint before puttting on the final ones have stood the test of time.
But you must waterproof the inside so that the wood does not absorb moistureon the inside.

regards
Roy

I'm glad you're back to working on your model, Duncan.

Hi Duncan, I cut the hull with a simple cutter.
They recommended electric cutters to do it but I didn't trust them, the work was too delicate.
To follow the line you want and not the grain you can use a steel ruler, or a mark (pencil, marker, tape, etc. etc.) the important thing is that the first grooves are light, then gradually you can sink and push more because the blade will not take other paths.

"Having 'chewed over' all of discussions about fiber glassing the hull I 'chickened out' and instead just applied a coat of Z-epoxy 2 part finishing resin."
Excellent decision.

CUTTING THROUGH LIMEWOOD

When I was cutting through 3mm pine stock, I found a box cutter had a better grip for control. I would score it 3 to 5 times cutting in about .75mm per stroke

Hi Duncan I understand you. It's annoying to interrupt work.
I don't have grandchildren, but many other reasons prevent me from continuing the model quickly.
Tonight, if I can, I'll paint the cannons.

There is another peculiarity in your work.
You've built the planking around the propeller shafts. I, however, prefer to complete the planking and then drill it.
The differences in model building techniques are always fascinating and I really enjoy looking at other methods.

Hi Len, very interesting observation.
I would very much like to discuss this topic with you and the other modelers but if the discussion gets too long, as it is likely to happen, we could disturb Duncan's work.
For this reason I prefer to open a separate topic and in this topic continue to comment on the work of Duncan's Bruma.

Just a thought on double planking on real ships is that it adds so much weight to the vessel and that could reduce its load carrying capability and therefore revenue. Maybe double planking on warships would make sense.
This just conjecture on my part and not based on any facts.
Len

Hi Alessandro, Building has come to a halt whilst the grand children are staying with us. Two reasons. 1) I have had to remove everything from their bedroom/modelling room and 2) they keep me that busy I have no time!!
The only progress is the 1st layer of planking is complete. Next stage is filling and sanding. I want to do the sanding outside to avoid dust in the house so that will also be weather dependant! Will update the build blog before the second layer starts.😊

Hi Duncan, I haven't seen any posts on this forum for a while.

I'm glad you've almost finished the first planking and your method is very interesting.
Even though I have always started from the top down to the keel, I think yours could be excellent, I will take it into consideration for next time.




P.S.
No, I've never heard of "double planking" for real ships.
Maybe it will even have been done on some real boats. Why not. I ignore it.
I am sure that for all (and I mean all) the scale models I have seen to date, in person or on the internet, made with double planking, no real ship (and I mean none) had double planking.

In other words:
modeling = double planking is always or almost always used even when real models do not require it.
real ships = always or almost always single planking.
This is why I can say that double planking is above all a modeling technique.

SPQR - Contrary to your statement, I supposed you never heard of "Double Planking" on real boats?
Lew
Florida, USA

Certainly Duncan, it's as you say: the second planking (which only exists in the modeling sector) is usually always easier, because there is already a surface on which to attach the wooden strips.

DUNCAN P
what a beauty!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i wish i had the real one!👍👍👍

Hello Duncan
As expected wonderful workmanship from you it is always a pleasure and interesting to note the changes in methods that you often use. I must admit putting the roof on before the sides has me head scratching but on reflection looks a good idea although brave.
I continue to look longingly at my build but whilst I am keeping the NHS busy I find it hard to get into the garage where I really need to be to continue.
Soon I hope regards to all ChrisG

Hi I was contemplating starting with diagonal planking and then the fore and aft.
I did it for a 40 inch sail boat and it worked well. With the diagonal planking (45 degrees) you do not try and twist a plank to fit just lay it straight and all the gaps are straight line triangles and easily cut to fit.

The Bruma kit I have has half and half balsa and lime, not easy to tell apart! Mine were all mixed up!
I am dying to start but felt I had to finish another boat which has been hanging about too long, first. I have got to the part which made me stop in the first place, with trying to solve the problem of a butt joint of the bulwarks at the bow which are sloped etc. The deck already finished so have to be careful.

I decided that it was best to leave easily disposable things behind me when I kick the bucket rather than part started boats who no-one wants to know!
So I am following the Bruma build with interest.

The later 10 page instructions suggest using a hand held steam cleaner for clothes to persuade the planks into position, my daughter said I could use hers as she rarely uses it.

But I shall be using aliphatic (yellow) glue which is waterproof anyway. I found that on an earlier boat which I had to rectify mistakes I had made that joints that had been held together with spring loaded clips easily came apart while the ones that were clamped with a screw tore the wood apart.

Regards and keep the pictures coming
Roy

Only when qualified as Full Members Ross.
(By special arrangement with the Site Shop😁. TBA.)
Thus far we have as Full Plankers:-
Graham93, Robbob, Mturpin, Dave 976 and JBkiwi.
Further nominees will be gratefully received and considered.
Nominations please to FLEET. Care of RNinMunich, MBNavy Bavarian HQ, Isar Flotilla, Munich.
Both hull and deck Plankers will be considered.
FLEET, 😎

Good start Duncan👍
As a 'Novice Planker' I'm following with interest.
Can't wait to see the second layer. Will it be diagonal?
What wood will be used?
Cheers, Doug😎

Do we all get our stuff from the PLANKER'S GUILD😉?

Thanks so much Duncan.