Agreed LewZ, that was a topic lakeside as we sailed THUR morning. The computer-radio-guys pointed that out. The ability to trim esc/motor pairings for straight running at all speeds. Incidentally I don't think I ever run a Springer tug in a straight line LOL !!!

The 320 amp rating might be what is know as "surge". Use the "continuous" rating.

The maximum supply (battery or batteries) should be based on the specification for that particular ESC (which has not been identified).

Note that running two motors from the same ESC: Brushed motors typically don't run the same speed in either direction due to the alignment of the brushes (kind of like BTDC timing in engines). So if you are using counterrotating props one will probably turn a little slower than the other which is why two ESCs might be the better choice (and the two batteries will not conflict with each other).

Lew
Florida, USA

Quite right Rod👍
Also they should preferably be Schottky diodes.
Stephen; These have a much lower forward voltage drop, ca 150 - 450mV as opposed to 600-700mV for general purpose silicon p-n diodes. Such as the 1Nxxxx series.
The lower forward drop means, apart from saving energy, they can switch off much faster when presented with a reverse current flow, as in 'back charging' of one battery by the other.
Such 'back charging' can create high current which can cause wiring to overheat and maybe catch fire and the loss of the model.🔥😭 You have been warned!
To minimise this risk both batteries should be as identical as possible; same brand, type, voltage, capacity (mAh) and especially state of charge. If in doubt about the state of charge run them both through a discharge - charge cycle before sailing.
Stay safe Stephen and enjoy the fruits of your labours🤞
Cheers, Doug😎

I agree with RodC

NICKD, the diode has to be able to handle your maximum motor current. It will be either one of the big fat epoxy diodes or one of 4 in a metal case that has a bolt hole for bolting to a metal heatsink.if you use a 1Amp diode in the 1n4001-1n4007 series it will die quickly

I am with you, RodC I tried some less expensive speed controllers and didn’t like them. I use Mtronics in my models, they are easy to set up. Also I am confident if there is loss of signal the motors will turn off. Some cheapys when the signal is lost the motors continue to run (no bueno). Mtronics are a little more but still reasonably priced

RodC any particular size diode?

The 320amps refers to instantaneous output, not continuous - i think the output would be around 60a running!
Correct me if I am wrong please!

Diagram not necessary. At each of the negative battery terminals install a diode with the cathode end, it has a bar on the diode body, well that bar goes at the negative terminal so that the 'arrow points at the neg terminal. Then the back side of each diode is tied together & goes to the black battery input terminal wire of the ESC.

Can anyone do me a simple wiring diagram for wiring in blocking diodes into the battery system please