Agreed LewZ, that was a topic lakeside as we sailed THUR morning. The computer-radio-guys pointed that out. The ability to trim esc/motor pairings for straight running at all speeds. Incidentally I don't think I ever run a Springer tug in a straight line LOL !!!
Agreed LewZ, that was a topic lakeside as we sailed THUR morning. The computer-radio-guys pointed that out. The ability to trim esc/motor pairings for straight running at all speeds. Incidentally I don't think I ever run a Springer tug in a straight line LOL !!!
The 320 amp rating might be what is know as "surge". Use the "continuous" rating.
The maximum supply (battery or batteries) should be based on the specification for that particular ESC (which has not been identified).
Note that running two motors from the same ESC: Brushed motors typically don't run the same speed in either direction due to the alignment of the brushes (kind of like BTDC timing in engines). So if you are using counterrotating props one will probably turn a little slower than the other which is why two ESCs might be the better choice (and the two batteries will not conflict with each other).
Lew
Florida, USA
The 320 amp rating might be what is know as "surge". Use the "continuous" rating.
The maximum supply (battery or batteries) should be based on the specification for that particular ESC (which has not been identified).
Note that running two motors from the same ESC: Brushed motors typically don't run the same speed in either direction due to the alignment of the brushes (kind of like BTDC timing in engines). So if you are using counterrotating props one will probably turn a little slower than the other which is why two ESCs might be the better choice (and the two batteries will not conflict with each other).
Lew
Florida, USA
Lew
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Quite right Rod👍
Also they should preferably be Schottky diodes.
Stephen; These have a much lower forward voltage drop, ca 150 - 450mV as opposed to 600-700mV for general purpose silicon p-n diodes. Such as the 1Nxxxx series.
The lower forward drop means, apart from saving energy, they can switch off much faster when presented with a reverse current flow, as in 'back charging' of one battery by the other.
Such 'back charging' can create high current which can cause wiring to overheat and maybe catch fire and the loss of the model.🔥😭 You have been warned!
To minimise this risk both batteries should be as identical as possible; same brand, type, voltage, capacity (mAh) and especially state of charge. If in doubt about the state of charge run them both through a discharge - charge cycle before sailing.
Stay safe Stephen and enjoy the fruits of your labours🤞
Cheers, Doug😎
Quite right Rod👍
Also they should preferably be Schottky diodes.
Stephen; These have a much lower forward voltage drop, ca 150 - 450mV as opposed to 600-700mV for general purpose silicon p-n diodes. Such as the 1Nxxxx series.
The lower forward drop means, apart from saving energy, they can switch off much faster when presented with a reverse current flow, as in 'back charging' of one battery by the other.
Such 'back charging' can create high current which can cause wiring to overheat and maybe catch fire and the loss of the model.🔥😭 You have been warned!
To minimise this risk both batteries should be as identical as possible; same brand, type, voltage, capacity (mAh) and especially state of charge. If in doubt about the state of charge run them both through a discharge - charge cycle before sailing.
Stay safe Stephen and enjoy the fruits of your labours🤞
Cheers, Doug😎
Young at heart 😉 Slightly older in other places.😊 Cheers Doug
NICKD, the diode has to be able to handle your maximum motor current. It will be either one of the big fat epoxy diodes or one of 4 in a metal case that has a bolt hole for bolting to a metal heatsink.if you use a 1Amp diode in the 1n4001-1n4007 series it will die quickly
NICKD, the diode has to be able to handle your maximum motor current. It will be either one of the big fat epoxy diodes or one of 4 in a metal case that has a bolt hole for bolting to a metal heatsink.if you use a 1Amp diode in the 1n4001-1n4007 series it will die quickly
I am with you, RodC I tried some less expensive speed controllers and didn’t like them. I use Mtronics in my models, they are easy to set up. Also I am confident if there is loss of signal the motors will turn off. Some cheapys when the signal is lost the motors continue to run (no bueno). Mtronics are a little more but still reasonably priced
I am with you, RodC I tried some less expensive speed controllers and didn’t like them. I use Mtronics in my models, they are easy to set up. Also I am confident if there is loss of signal the motors will turn off. Some cheapys when the signal is lost the motors continue to run (no bueno). Mtronics are a little more but still reasonably priced
The sure way to succeed is, just try one more time
Diagram not necessary. At each of the negative battery terminals install a diode with the cathode end, it has a bar on the diode body, well that bar goes at the negative terminal so that the 'arrow points at the neg terminal. Then the back side of each diode is tied together & goes to the black battery input terminal wire of the ESC.
Diagram not necessary. At each of the negative battery terminals install a diode with the cathode end, it has a bar on the diode body, well that bar goes at the negative terminal so that the 'arrow points at the neg terminal. Then the back side of each diode is tied together & goes to the black battery input terminal wire of the ESC.
I run 2 SLAs in series, I initially tried them in parallel with blocking diodes to prevent curculating currents but the ESC wud drop out. Apparently the brushless 650kv from Zippkits needed the higher voltage. The SLA I use is nominally 6v & not high enuff. I need those 2 heavy batteries for ballasting my Springer. Sure I cud install a LIPO & get a longer run, but I wud need a ton of ballast to get the prop fully submerged. True, in my limited experience, most of the inexpensive ESCs hav some kind of issue. Now i buy quality. I am looking at 3 suspect speed controllers as we speak, & 2 questionable servos.
I run 2 SLAs in series, I initially tried them in parallel with blocking diodes to prevent curculating currents but the ESC wud drop out. Apparently the brushless 650kv from Zippkits needed the higher voltage. The SLA I use is nominally 6v & not high enuff. I need those 2 heavy batteries for ballasting my Springer. Sure I cud install a LIPO & get a longer run, but I wud need a ton of ballast to get the prop fully submerged. True, in my limited experience, most of the inexpensive ESCs hav some kind of issue. Now i buy quality. I am looking at 3 suspect speed controllers as we speak, & 2 questionable servos.
Would recommend a power distribution board from somewhere like component shop. Or fit blocking diodes when paralleling up batteries to avoid back charging etc.
Would recommend a power distribution board from somewhere like component shop. Or fit blocking diodes when paralleling up batteries to avoid back charging etc.
Yes, those controllers can run two motors, so long as you do not use batteries over 8.4 to 9 volts.
My smit runs a double esc and I run it on a 2s lipo no problem at all
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Looks like it was made to handle two motors as it has two outputs. (Are you planning to use brushed motors?) Need to check the maximum current draw for the motors versus the continuous run current for the ESC.
As far as the batteries go, wiring two (similar) batteries in parallel will effectively double the amperage (current) and the voltage will remain the same. Connecting two batteries in series will double the voltage while the amperage will remain the same.
Lew
Florida, USA
Looks like it was made to handle two motors as it has two outputs. (Are you planning to use brushed motors?) Need to check the maximum current draw for the motors versus the continuous run current for the ESC.
As far as the batteries go, wiring two (similar) batteries in parallel will effectively double the amperage (current) and the voltage will remain the same. Connecting two batteries in series will double the voltage while the amperage will remain the same.
Lew
Florida, USA
Lew
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Is it possible with a 320 amp speed controller to run two motors from one controller the one I got off ebay has two red and two black output leads on it on one side and the normal battery connect on the other and my other question how do you connect two batteries to get the same out put ie 12v
Is it possible with a 320 amp speed controller to run two motors from one controller the one I got off ebay has two red and two black output leads on it on one side and the normal battery connect on the other and my other question how do you connect two batteries to get the same out put ie 12v
