Hi Glyn.
Good to see you making some progress👍😀
Clamping shouldn't be an issue😐, I suppose it depends on the types and sizes of clamps you're using?
I have an assortment that are very versatile and I use them in combination with brass pins and 'map pins'.
Rob.

pictures of SG&K runabout tail balsa blocks🤞

Carved balsa wood block is often used in Classic Model Power Boat models to save the problem of wrapping plywood skins around difficult areas.

A good example of this is its use on the Vic Smeed Remora design where the same technique is also used to make the cabin roof.

The balsa wood needs to be very well sealed before painting because if it should get damp or wet it will swell and spoil the look of the boat.

I have always used PVA to glue the blasa wood blocks onto my model boats that use them as it allows time to position them and pin them securely in place until the glue has dried.

These pictures were taken when I was building my first Remora in 1965 and I used exactly the same technique when I made my second Remora almost 60 years later.

It doesn’t take much skill, but it does take a little time to sand it carefully and not take too much off at a time.

The technique works very well.

Hope this helps,

Bob.

Very interesting, Robbob.
So those balsa pieces on the bow won't be further covered with wood? They'll be exposed, painted, or resin-coated directly.
I've always seen [especially in static modeling] use shaped pieces of wood on the bow to facilitate attaching the strips in that point (very difficult).
Of course, this saves time, it's an excellent method, even if you have to be very skilled manually, you did an excellent job.

Hi Glyn.
I would recommend aliphatic glue for the skins, the use of contact adhesive would mean you have to get the skins in the right place first time otherwise you're in for a whole world of pain trying to reposition them.
A tip....I have always used a heat gun on the skins to bend the ply to the approximate curvature before fixing them using lots of clamps and brass pins where required.

Because the bow is a compound curve you can't bend the ply bottom skins in two directions to produce the correct shapes, hence the use of the balsa blocks for the bow.
The blocks are glued in place after the skins are fitted and you carve and sand them to shape, do it slowly and carefully because if you take too much off you can't put it back on and then you'll have to use filler to rectify it!

Regarding the painting, in my view this is best done when it's all assembled. I use fibreglass cloth and epoxy resin on the hull and sometimes on the cabin but you could just use several coats sanding sealer or alternatively Deluxe Materials 'Eze-Kote' for a better surface finish for paint.

I hope that's helpful.
Rob.

Sorry, Thadlietz, I didn't realize you'd already replied.
In the Build blog section, the posts aren't in the same order as in the forum.
I basically agree with you.

Hi Wolac, I think they serve (once properly shaped and glued to the bow) as a support for gluing the wooden strips in the bow area.
You could do without them, but it requires more skill and dexterity, and you can make mistakes. I think it's easier with the balsa supports. But be careful, because cutting the balsa is easy, but getting it to a correct and symmetrical shape isn't always a given.

I would paint first and then finish it after assembly.

Yes, extra costs always apply.

The blocks typically are attached to the bow, taking grain into consideration, then carved/sanded to the required shape. Usually this method is used when there are complicated compound curves that make planking etc. very difficult. That's how I understand it🤔 it usually is not difficult to do in my limited experience. Notice the tail on my runabout top of pic...I'll attach a better one later👍

I have had to make the opening for the prop shaft to pass through the keel and bulkheads many times over the years, but I have never had the luxury of doing it with a long drill bit……but I do like to idea as it could have saved me hours of work with other hand tools!

Bob.

Glyn.
The bit that you have bought looks like a masonry bit which isn't best suited to use on wood! 😮
PS. No problem with you using pics from my SLEC Pilot Boat build blog 😊
Rob.

What is the wood and how thick? Has anyone tried to solder a drill bit into a piece of brass tubing to make it longer. Might work if the wood isn't too thick.
Lew

Had to buy one for my Fisherman build as I had to drill through the mahogany keel, think mine was only 5mm though.

Bit late now but what I do is file out where the prop tube is to fit along one of the doublers/strengtheners and then glue that in place and then do that with the other one ensuring that both doublers fit snugly to the keel and the prop tube passes through easily.

Different lengths of drill bit are available from engineers suppliers, at a cost of course, I tend to use a prop shaft tube with one bush removed, this bush-less end can be cut across the face maybe twice then formed with a small file to the shape of a carpenters woodbite or ripsaw cutting edges, with the now 2 or 4 formed pointed edges bent very slightly outward to form a ringsaw shape. Sometimes with a bit of thought a twist drill can be placed down the centre of the tube to act as a drilling guide, this is best undertaken with a hand drill/brace or a very slow pistol drill, you may have to remove the device to place a new cutting edge on the tube end severel times, I have only ever used a brass tube but i,m sure a steel tube would work just as well if not better. Muddy....

Hi Wolac & PhilH,

I have bought spare pointed m4 nuts to hold the propeller on my fast flatties that use them on the end of their flex- drive shafts .

Some of them are very pointed !

Try some of the online suppliers or look for spare parts for any of these fast boats with flex- drive shafts.

I think I found some as spare parts from HobbyKing in the past.

Being m4 threaded, they should be perfect for this application.

Bob.

It will still do the job if it's big enough. To be honest outboard props aren't usually brass but that's what it reminds me of with the hole being where the exhaust comes out.

They are usually stainless steel or alloy but would be expensive to make for a model as they would have to be machined.

Looking at your pictures, I am guessing that you are using one of the thin m4 stainless prop shafts from J.Perkins.

I have used one of these shafts in my Remora and it has worked very well with a standard nylon propeller .

Using a nylon propeller will give you a good choice of sizes to choose from at very low cost.

….and they certainly work well enough…

Bob.

You could buy m4 stainless domed nuts from eBay.

I have used these in the past to give a nice finishing touch to hold my propellers on (also available in m5).

A brass or nylon washer can run against the end of the prop shaft and a normal m4 nut can be fitted in front of this to lock against the back of the propeller as the domed nut is locked against the propeller from the outside.

The end float (or “play”) between the end of the shaft and this brass or nylon washer should also be adjusted to take up any slack.

A small amount of slack should be left to prevent the shaft running too tightly . This “slack” can also be adjusted in a similar way at the other end of the prop shaft inside the hull using the same technique with a plain m4 nut locked against the end of the coupling after the desired slack has been established.

Bob.

Hi chrisf can you not buy pointed nut for the end the way you have nut washer nut is the way I would do it you don't need pointed nut on end aesthetics. But a more knowledgeable person may be along soon good luck mate don't forget it is a hobby don't take to seriously.
Philuk👍

That looks more like a prop off an outboard motor. Usually those used on prop shafts are enclosed with a domed or pointed end - see one of mine.

The nut locks against the prop and then the washer goes between the nut and the prop shaft tube - brass is fine though nylon and Delrin are used as well.

Fantastic well done slec
Philuk👍