You asked me to try and do a build blog so here is my attempt
Started the build two day ago. This progress so!
First mistake was fixing one of the stringers? In the wrong cutouts. Managed to release them and make good (I hope). I’m double checking now. I really miss having a plan, as you do with aircraft builds. I think it’s ok so far.
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You asked me to try and do a build blog so here is my attempt
Started the build two day ago. This progress so!
First mistake was fixing one of the stringers? In the wrong cutouts. Managed to release them and make good (I hope). I’m double checking now. I really miss having a plan, as you do with aircraft builds. I think it’s ok so far.
I had this issue with a model I was building. (Somehow I missed this while building.) Mine was a vacuum formed hull. If you have only a few stringers in it might be easier to remove them and start over bracing the bulkheads better (and upside-down).
First I removed the deck (no bulkheads) and had basically an open shell. I was able to twist the hull until I got the right position.
Next I placed the board on a flat surface and add plenty of support and shims to hold the hull while checking the alignment.
Then I built up the upper sides of the hull for to deck to attach to.
Lastly was to trim and/or build up the deck and hull where they meet.
If the twist is severe, you might need to remove the transom and follow the above procedure similarly.
I’m pretty certain thar the warping is caused by the stern bulkhead ply. The slot type locations were very tight and I used a clamp to to pull the together. I think I should have eased them thus allowing some movement to enable alignment.
I will cut it off and make a new one with slots to give me some play. Anyway will let you know if it is successful.
I have to admit I’m rather at a loss at the moment. In the kit there are cut strips of ply. But fail see how to identify where the different sizes are fitted. This is because nothing seems to be itemised on the photo build instructions.
Even the shipping list is very confusing. It lists the dimension of the sheet they were cut from. Several items of the the same thickness are shown as, say, 3mm x 2, 3mm x 1 3mm x 3 etc. See photos.
Wondering how to decide what goes where? I am sure to fix something in the wrong place.
Any help anyone.
All would be clear with a scale plan!
Cheers for now, Glyn.
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I have to admit I’m rather at a loss at the moment. In the kit there are cut strips of ply. But fail see how to identify where the different sizes are fitted. This is because nothing seems to be itemised on the photo build instructions.
Even the shipping list is very confusing. It lists the dimension of the sheet they were cut from. Several items of the the same thickness are shown as, say, 3mm x 2, 3mm x 1 3mm x 3 etc. See photos.
Wondering how to decide what goes where? I am sure to fix something in the wrong place.
Any help anyone.
All would be clear with a scale plan!
Welcome to the world of model boating, best advice i can give is try to work out which size seems to fit best in each slot or hole and how many of each you need to do a certain part good luck not easy as very often there is more in the kit than is needed that's what I would do is sort it and find what seems to be spare .
Philuk👍
As the title says I’m slowly moving onwards. I am fitting stringers? ( the strips that go from bow to stern) I have no idea really whether I’m using the correct piece. The instructions have no information as to what goes where. I will not be buying another kit from SLEC!
I can’t see much wrong with boat up to now, that’s saving itself until later. It’s fun any way.
Here my update pics.
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As the title says I’m slowly moving onwards. I am fitting stringers? ( the strips that go from bow to stern) I have no idea really whether I’m using the correct piece. The instructions have no information as to what goes where. I will not be buying another kit from SLEC!
I can’t see much wrong with boat up to now, that’s saving itself until later. It’s fun any way.
Here my update pics.
Ah but Glyn, depending on the build, with boats you can be using mahogany, beech and bass etc. and balsa. As for ply I use the birch faced which is pretty good stuff.
Ply is much harder to work though than balsa, especially when sanding, especially when I use 6mm thick for some components!.
It's a pity about your build but I do understand that the Fairey kits they produce which were designed by the late Dave Milbourn go together well and have very good instructions.
"This is because nothing seems to be itemised on the photo build instructions.
The instructions have no information as to what goes where."
Seems odd to say the least, coz I've only heard good things about SLEC up to now.
Can you post the complete Material list page please (scan or photo)?
I'm pretty sure that the far left column will have letter/number codes corresponding to those in the construction photos.
Otherwise - So far so good👍
Cheers, Doug😎
Hi RNinMunich
Here is the list:
I can see now that the stupid thing I’m guilty of is that I was reading the 3 columns individually, where I should be reading left to right across the page. So slap on the wrist and onwards. It’s obvious once you know!!!
I have completed this frame today. I’m learning slowly with everyone’s inputs. Thanks to all.
I sail onwards!
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I can see now that the stupid thing I’m guilty of is that I was reading the 3 columns individually, where I should be reading left to right across the page. So slap on the wrist and onwards. It’s obvious once you know!!!
I have completed this frame today. I’m learning slowly with everyone’s inputs. Thanks to all.
Hi Glyn.
Looks like you're making good progress now 👍😀.
In my experience the SLEC Pilot Pilot Boat kit is all quality materials, with all parts accurately cut and the build instructions quite comprehensive, the pictures are a great help for novice builders too.
I hope my own build blog is helpful as a point of reference.
Robbob.
Superstructure completed. It just slotted into place with very little persuasion.
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I’ve just made a massive mistake. I’ve glued in the superstructure and I’m pretty certain it should be removable to make a hatch to give access. I’m won’t be able to release it. Going to have to carry on find work around if possible.
Only excuse for me is the instructions do not point out that this part should remain removable. Ah well to late now.
I’ve just made a massive mistake. I’ve glued in the superstructure and I’m pretty certain it should be removable to make a hatch to give access. I’m won’t be able to release it. Going to have to carry on find work around if possible.
Only excuse for me is the instructions do not point out that this part should remain removable. Ah well to late now.
Hi solace we have all been there, there's always something you miss or there is when I do a kit you have try to think four jumps infront, just have to see how to get around it.sometimes it works for the best but not always .
Goodwick
Philuk👍
As long as you can gain enough access to run it (changing batteries etc) this could be an advantage as boats with lift off superstructures can never be as water tight as those that are built with permanently fixed superstructures.
Just make sure that you have good removable cabin tops or hatches for day to day access when in use and it should work out well.👍
Thanks to the two guys replying to my problem. There is now an update. I have managed to remove the offending hatch, by using a wood chisel and a craft knife. Very little damage to remaining hull structure. I’m quite pleased. One thing I’ve learned is that Titebond is a great adhesive!.
I fessed up to SLEC and they will supply a new laser cut sheet with all required parts. Happy days. Not sure what I will do whilst I await delivery. Might try to source all electrical bits, props and shafts etc.
Anyway thanks to all who have advised. Greatly appreciated.
I have vowed no more stupid mistakes. Let’s see how that goes!🤞
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Thanks to the two guys replying to my problem. There is now an update. I have managed to remove the offending hatch, by using a wood chisel and a craft knife. Very little damage to remaining hull structure. I’m quite pleased. One thing I’ve learned is that Titebond is a great adhesive!.
I fessed up to SLEC and they will supply a new laser cut sheet with all required parts. Happy days. Not sure what I will do whilst I await delivery. Might try to source all electrical bits, props and shafts etc.
Anyway thanks to all who have advised. Greatly appreciated.
I have vowed no more stupid mistakes. Let’s see how that goes!🤞
Happy days!
SLEC have happily supplied me another laser cut ply sheet containing all the parts I need to build a hatch Mk 2. So onwards I will go. It will all be plain sailing now!!!
Thank you all at SLEC.
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Happy days!
SLEC have happily supplied me another laser cut ply sheet containing all the parts I need to build a hatch Mk 2. So onwards I will go. It will all be plain sailing now!!!
Philuk👍