You asked me to try and do a build blog so here is my attempt
Started the build two day ago. This progress so!
First mistake was fixing one of the stringers? In the wrong cutouts. Managed to release them and make good (I hope). I’m double checking now. I really miss having a plan, as you do with aircraft builds. I think it’s ok so far.
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You asked me to try and do a build blog so here is my attempt
Started the build two day ago. This progress so!
First mistake was fixing one of the stringers? In the wrong cutouts. Managed to release them and make good (I hope). I’m double checking now. I really miss having a plan, as you do with aircraft builds. I think it’s ok so far.
I had this issue with a model I was building. (Somehow I missed this while building.) Mine was a vacuum formed hull. If you have only a few stringers in it might be easier to remove them and start over bracing the bulkheads better (and upside-down).
First I removed the deck (no bulkheads) and had basically an open shell. I was able to twist the hull until I got the right position.
Next I placed the board on a flat surface and add plenty of support and shims to hold the hull while checking the alignment.
Then I built up the upper sides of the hull for to deck to attach to.
Lastly was to trim and/or build up the deck and hull where they meet.
If the twist is severe, you might need to remove the transom and follow the above procedure similarly.
I’m pretty certain thar the warping is caused by the stern bulkhead ply. The slot type locations were very tight and I used a clamp to to pull the together. I think I should have eased them thus allowing some movement to enable alignment.
I will cut it off and make a new one with slots to give me some play. Anyway will let you know if it is successful.
I have to admit I’m rather at a loss at the moment. In the kit there are cut strips of ply. But fail see how to identify where the different sizes are fitted. This is because nothing seems to be itemised on the photo build instructions.
Even the shipping list is very confusing. It lists the dimension of the sheet they were cut from. Several items of the the same thickness are shown as, say, 3mm x 2, 3mm x 1 3mm x 3 etc. See photos.
Wondering how to decide what goes where? I am sure to fix something in the wrong place.
Any help anyone.
All would be clear with a scale plan!
Cheers for now, Glyn.
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I have to admit I’m rather at a loss at the moment. In the kit there are cut strips of ply. But fail see how to identify where the different sizes are fitted. This is because nothing seems to be itemised on the photo build instructions.
Even the shipping list is very confusing. It lists the dimension of the sheet they were cut from. Several items of the the same thickness are shown as, say, 3mm x 2, 3mm x 1 3mm x 3 etc. See photos.
Wondering how to decide what goes where? I am sure to fix something in the wrong place.
Any help anyone.
All would be clear with a scale plan!
Welcome to the world of model boating, best advice i can give is try to work out which size seems to fit best in each slot or hole and how many of each you need to do a certain part good luck not easy as very often there is more in the kit than is needed that's what I would do is sort it and find what seems to be spare .
Philuk👍
As the title says I’m slowly moving onwards. I am fitting stringers? ( the strips that go from bow to stern) I have no idea really whether I’m using the correct piece. The instructions have no information as to what goes where. I will not be buying another kit from SLEC!
I can’t see much wrong with boat up to now, that’s saving itself until later. It’s fun any way.
Here my update pics.
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As the title says I’m slowly moving onwards. I am fitting stringers? ( the strips that go from bow to stern) I have no idea really whether I’m using the correct piece. The instructions have no information as to what goes where. I will not be buying another kit from SLEC!
I can’t see much wrong with boat up to now, that’s saving itself until later. It’s fun any way.
Here my update pics.
Ah but Glyn, depending on the build, with boats you can be using mahogany, beech and bass etc. and balsa. As for ply I use the birch faced which is pretty good stuff.
Ply is much harder to work though than balsa, especially when sanding, especially when I use 6mm thick for some components!.
It's a pity about your build but I do understand that the Fairey kits they produce which were designed by the late Dave Milbourn go together well and have very good instructions.
"This is because nothing seems to be itemised on the photo build instructions.
The instructions have no information as to what goes where."
Seems odd to say the least, coz I've only heard good things about SLEC up to now.
Can you post the complete Material list page please (scan or photo)?
I'm pretty sure that the far left column will have letter/number codes corresponding to those in the construction photos.
Otherwise - So far so good👍
Cheers, Doug😎
Hi RNinMunich
Here is the list:
I can see now that the stupid thing I’m guilty of is that I was reading the 3 columns individually, where I should be reading left to right across the page. So slap on the wrist and onwards. It’s obvious once you know!!!
I have completed this frame today. I’m learning slowly with everyone’s inputs. Thanks to all.
I sail onwards!
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I can see now that the stupid thing I’m guilty of is that I was reading the 3 columns individually, where I should be reading left to right across the page. So slap on the wrist and onwards. It’s obvious once you know!!!
I have completed this frame today. I’m learning slowly with everyone’s inputs. Thanks to all.
Hi Glyn.
Looks like you're making good progress now 👍😀.
In my experience the SLEC Pilot Pilot Boat kit is all quality materials, with all parts accurately cut and the build instructions quite comprehensive, the pictures are a great help for novice builders too.
I hope my own build blog is helpful as a point of reference.
Robbob.
Superstructure completed. It just slotted into place with very little persuasion.
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I’ve just made a massive mistake. I’ve glued in the superstructure and I’m pretty certain it should be removable to make a hatch to give access. I’m won’t be able to release it. Going to have to carry on find work around if possible.
Only excuse for me is the instructions do not point out that this part should remain removable. Ah well to late now.
I’ve just made a massive mistake. I’ve glued in the superstructure and I’m pretty certain it should be removable to make a hatch to give access. I’m won’t be able to release it. Going to have to carry on find work around if possible.
Only excuse for me is the instructions do not point out that this part should remain removable. Ah well to late now.
Hi solace we have all been there, there's always something you miss or there is when I do a kit you have try to think four jumps infront, just have to see how to get around it.sometimes it works for the best but not always .
Goodwick
Philuk👍
As long as you can gain enough access to run it (changing batteries etc) this could be an advantage as boats with lift off superstructures can never be as water tight as those that are built with permanently fixed superstructures.
Just make sure that you have good removable cabin tops or hatches for day to day access when in use and it should work out well.👍
Thanks to the two guys replying to my problem. There is now an update. I have managed to remove the offending hatch, by using a wood chisel and a craft knife. Very little damage to remaining hull structure. I’m quite pleased. One thing I’ve learned is that Titebond is a great adhesive!.
I fessed up to SLEC and they will supply a new laser cut sheet with all required parts. Happy days. Not sure what I will do whilst I await delivery. Might try to source all electrical bits, props and shafts etc.
Anyway thanks to all who have advised. Greatly appreciated.
I have vowed no more stupid mistakes. Let’s see how that goes!🤞
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Thanks to the two guys replying to my problem. There is now an update. I have managed to remove the offending hatch, by using a wood chisel and a craft knife. Very little damage to remaining hull structure. I’m quite pleased. One thing I’ve learned is that Titebond is a great adhesive!.
I fessed up to SLEC and they will supply a new laser cut sheet with all required parts. Happy days. Not sure what I will do whilst I await delivery. Might try to source all electrical bits, props and shafts etc.
Anyway thanks to all who have advised. Greatly appreciated.
I have vowed no more stupid mistakes. Let’s see how that goes!🤞
Happy days!
SLEC have happily supplied me another laser cut ply sheet containing all the parts I need to build a hatch Mk 2. So onwards I will go. It will all be plain sailing now!!!
Thank you all at SLEC.
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Happy days!
SLEC have happily supplied me another laser cut ply sheet containing all the parts I need to build a hatch Mk 2. So onwards I will go. It will all be plain sailing now!!!
Pleased to report that I have not made a single mistake with the build today.
That’s because I haven’t had time to any work on the boat! Been baking cakes.
Tomorrow will probably be a different story. Hopefully not.
Managed without hiccup to fit hatch decking. Maybe a bit of fine tuning as it tends to a little proud at one end. Just a 1mm.
As you can see from the images I have obtained a 4mm prop shaft and propeller. I think that there should be a pointy nut on the outside of the prop. There is just a hole with the threaded shaft inside.
Secondly in which order to the nuts washers and prop etc. go. Not found much info on that as yet. I did read somewhere that nylon washers maybe preferable.
I’ve reposted images. Appears they did not upload.
Getting ahead of myself but not sleeping at night trying to fathom it out!
Cheers all.
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Managed without hiccup to fit hatch decking. Maybe a bit of fine tuning as it tends to a little proud at one end. Just a 1mm.
As you can see from the images I have obtained a 4mm prop shaft and propeller. I think that there should be a pointy nut on the outside of the prop. There is just a hole with the threaded shaft inside.
Secondly in which order to the nuts washers and prop etc. go. Not found much info on that as yet. I did read somewhere that nylon washers maybe preferable.
I’ve reposted images. Appears they did not upload.
Getting ahead of myself but not sleeping at night trying to fathom it out!
I have used these in the past to give a nice finishing touch to hold my propellers on (also available in m5).
A brass or nylon washer can run against the end of the prop shaft and a normal m4 nut can be fitted in front of this to lock against the back of the propeller as the domed nut is locked against the propeller from the outside.
The end float (or “play”) between the end of the shaft and this brass or nylon washer should also be adjusted to take up any slack.
A small amount of slack should be left to prevent the shaft running too tightly . This “slack” can also be adjusted in a similar way at the other end of the prop shaft inside the hull using the same technique with a plain m4 nut locked against the end of the coupling after the desired slack has been established.
Thanks ChrisF,
Point taken. I don’t know its origin, I was given it by friends son who found out I was building a model.
I’ll get another later.
Thanks again.👍
It will still do the job if it's big enough. To be honest outboard props aren't usually brass but that's what it reminds me of with the hole being where the exhaust comes out.
They are usually stainless steel or alloy but would be expensive to make for a model as they would have to be machined.
I have to drill a 6mm hole through the keel strengtheners. It requires an extra long drill bit. I haven’t got one, and neither as anyone I can think of asking. So I’ve got to go buy one. Annoying. Grrrrrr. 😠
The drill has to through ply laminate, and ply keel. Next thing to work out is keeping it in alignment. I have a plan, I think. Any I now have the drill bit!
)I’ve used the image, with thanks, from Robbob blog. Hope that’s ok.)
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I have to drill a 6mm hole through the keel strengtheners. It requires an extra long drill bit. I haven’t got one, and neither as anyone I can think of asking. So I’ve got to go buy one. Annoying. Grrrrrr. 😠
The drill has to through ply laminate, and ply keel. Next thing to work out is keeping it in alignment. I have a plan, I think. Any I now have the drill bit!
)I’ve used the image, with thanks, from Robbob blog. Hope that’s ok.)
What is the wood and how thick? Has anyone tried to solder a drill bit into a piece of brass tubing to make it longer. Might work if the wood isn't too thick.
Lew
Glyn.
The bit that you have bought looks like a masonry bit which isn't best suited to use on wood! 😮
PS. No problem with you using pics from my SLEC Pilot Boat build blog 😊
Rob.
I’ve done the drilling for the shaft. Slides in and out ok. Bit of ferkling needed now as it’s not quite in alignment with the keel. Happy days.
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I have had to make the opening for the prop shaft to pass through the keel and bulkheads many times over the years, but I have never had the luxury of doing it with a long drill bit……but I do like to idea as it could have saved me hours of work with other hand tools!
Well I have made some headway. Part assembled the cabin. Been sand the hull ready fit the skins. I’m putting that off at the moment! I’m not sure how I’m going to do it yet. Instructions says use evo stick. I’m not sure I’d position it correctly immediately and with evo I would probably be doomed. So I’m tending towards aliphatic. Be ok you think?
I also have glue the cabin structure to the hatch cover, but I’m struggling somewhat to get s flush fit all round. Still sanding away gently at it.
One query you guys might help with please. See the two balsa blocks in the images, they are to be shaped and fitted at the bow. For the life of me I cannot grasp their use or importance. Do tell if you know.
Next investigation will be preparing the ply ready for painting and how to paint. It would seem to make sense to paint parts, if different colours before joining them together I.e. cabin, deck, roofs etc.
All the best, nobody warned me the expense occurring after kit purchase! Happy days.
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Well I have made some headway. Part assembled the cabin. Been sand the hull ready fit the skins. I’m putting that off at the moment! I’m not sure how I’m going to do it yet. Instructions says use evo stick. I’m not sure I’d position it correctly immediately and with evo I would probably be doomed. So I’m tending towards aliphatic. Be ok you think?
I also have glue the cabin structure to the hatch cover, but I’m struggling somewhat to get s flush fit all round. Still sanding away gently at it.
One query you guys might help with please. See the two balsa blocks in the images, they are to be shaped and fitted at the bow. For the life of me I cannot grasp their use or importance. Do tell if you know.
Next investigation will be preparing the ply ready for painting and how to paint. It would seem to make sense to paint parts, if different colours before joining them together I.e. cabin, deck, roofs etc.
All the best, nobody warned me the expense occurring after kit purchase! Happy days.
Very interesting, Robbob.
So those balsa pieces on the bow won't be further covered with wood? They'll be exposed, painted, or resin-coated directly.
I've always seen [especially in static modeling] use shaped pieces of wood on the bow to facilitate attaching the strips in that point (very difficult).
Of course, this saves time, it's an excellent method, even if you have to be very skilled manually, you did an excellent job.
Carved balsa wood block is often used in Classic Model Power Boat models to save the problem of wrapping plywood skins around difficult areas.
A good example of this is its use on the Vic Smeed Remora design where the same technique is also used to make the cabin roof.
The balsa wood needs to be very well sealed before painting because if it should get damp or wet it will swell and spoil the look of the boat.
I have always used PVA to glue the blasa wood blocks onto my model boats that use them as it allows time to position them and pin them securely in place until the glue has dried.
These pictures were taken when I was building my first Remora in 1965 and I used exactly the same technique when I made my second Remora almost 60 years later.
It doesn’t take much skill, but it does take a little time to sand it carefully and not take too much off at a time.
Hi Robbob,
Fret ye not. It’s a multi material drill bit.
DeWalt Multi Material Drill Bit from Toolstation.
Cut through the ply just fine.
Main difficulty was holding the hull firmly. I had to try and grip it with
one and use the hand drill either the other. This resulted in the hole being
A little off line. Fixed that with drill waggling and filing.
Hi Robbob,
Fret ye not. It’s a multi material drill bit.
DeWalt Multi Material Drill Bit from Toolstation.
Cut through the ply just fine.
Main difficulty was holding the hull firmly. I had to try and grip it with
one and use the hand drill either the other. This resulted in the hole being
A little off line. Fixed that with drill waggling and filing.
Many thanx to all you guys,
I’m feeling rather thick now!
I thought the skins would fit over the balsa blocks as the colours in the photo (instructions are identical! It looks like one piece from stern to prow.
I’m going to try to fit a skin today. Fingers crossed.
Many thanx to all you guys,
I’m feeling rather thick now!
I thought the skins would fit over the balsa blocks as the colours in the photo (instructions are identical! It looks like one piece from stern to prow.
I’m going to try to fit a skin today. Fingers crossed.
Ive managed to fix on the bottom sheets. Still got to trim them.
What have I learned? That not easy to position clamps on hulls. Their shape and size are just not clamp friendly. Cheers.
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Ive managed to fix on the bottom sheets. Still got to trim them.
What have I learned? That not easy to position clamps on hulls. Their shape and size are just not clamp friendly. Cheers.
Hi Glyn.
Good to see you making some progress👍😀
Clamping shouldn't be an issue😐, I suppose it depends on the types and sizes of clamps you're using?
I have an assortment that are very versatile and I use them in combination with brass pins and 'map pins'.
Rob.
Philuk👍