Finished the deck planking and, as my first attempt, think it has turned out quite well. As was written in a recent article this is quite a satisfying process.
The precut linked, planking saves time when the shapes are fairly consistent (such as the rear deck)but is of little help when the planks need to be fitted carefully, particularly when they have to be joggled into the margin plank.
The hull is now almost complete, sans deck detail, but am going to move onto building the superstructure after Christmas.
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Finished the deck planking and, as my first attempt, think it has turned out quite well. As was written in a recent article this is quite a satisfying process.
The precut linked, planking saves time when the shapes are fairly consistent (such as the rear deck)but is of little help when the planks need to be fitted carefully, particularly when they have to be joggled into the margin plank.
The hull is now almost complete, sans deck detail, but am going to move onto building the superstructure after Christmas.
Virtually finished the hull by adding depth markings, boot topping and the final coats of clear satin spray. All that remains are the deck fitting details, which will be added as final finishing touches.
Started on the superstructure and have nearly done the lower level structure. As this will be removable have added wooden reinforcements to give more strength and bending resistance. Have never done this before and it may prove to be unnecessary, so appreciate comments. Felt it was much easier to do this now, rather than once complete and find it then flexs and cracks at the lakeside
Going through my usual head-scratching to decide the best way of holding the superstructure down with hidden fasteners.
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Virtually finished the hull by adding depth markings, boot topping and the final coats of clear satin spray. All that remains are the deck fitting details, which will be added as final finishing touches.
Started on the superstructure and have nearly done the lower level structure. As this will be removable have added wooden reinforcements to give more strength and bending resistance. Have never done this before and it may prove to be unnecessary, so appreciate comments. Felt it was much easier to do this now, rather than once complete and find it then flexs and cracks at the lakeside
Going through my usual head-scratching to decide the best way of holding the superstructure down with hidden fasteners.
well done, excellent detail and fine work...I like it. idea for holding down the superstructure...I built a model of HMS Fearless and used all push fit joints to good affect, using 1" upstands...works well, no screw drivers, spanners etc, just lift off sections 😊
Have finished the hull and the superstructure shell. The superstructure was straight forward, built using styrene sheets and reinforcements as seemed necessary.
Decided to use the wooden reinforcement frame referred to earlier as location for a "hold down" bolt to retain the structure on the hull. This pulls the superstructure down onto the deck giving both retention and sealing.
Plan to slide the funnel over the exposed bolt thread so it is hidden.
Have various hull tasks outstanding; some minor electrical work, trial ballast, window glazing etc. They should be covered in my next blog.
The hull and superstructure deck planking proved a satisfying and interesting process.
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Have finished the hull and the superstructure shell. The superstructure was straight forward, built using styrene sheets and reinforcements as seemed necessary.
Decided to use the wooden reinforcement frame referred to earlier as location for a "hold down" bolt to retain the structure on the hull. This pulls the superstructure down onto the deck giving both retention and sealing.
Plan to slide the funnel over the exposed bolt thread so it is hidden.
Have various hull tasks outstanding; some minor electrical work, trial ballast, window glazing etc. They should be covered in my next blog.
The hull and superstructure deck planking proved a satisfying and interesting process.
Finished the wiring, major ballasting and superstructure, but without finishing details. Will do final trim ballasting on open water; my indoor test tank is too small for a 48" long model!
Have decided to work on the mast next. The second picture shows a joint at the rear of the deckhouse roof. Originally thought it would be ideal if the whole wheelhouse could be made removable, but could not hide the front joint very well and decided this would be a better approach. The wheelhouse is thus now fastened to the lower superstructure.
Through the removable roof section access to the interior light and the radar scanner motor can be gained. The second picture also shows the motor driveshaft extending upwards through the roof. Plan is to extend the shaft up to the platform on which the scanner sits and then use gears from an old clock to offset the drive forward and position the scanner in the correct location.
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Finished the wiring, major ballasting and superstructure, but without finishing details. Will do final trim ballasting on open water; my indoor test tank is too small for a 48" long model!
Have decided to work on the mast next. The second picture shows a joint at the rear of the deckhouse roof. Originally thought it would be ideal if the whole wheelhouse could be made removable, but could not hide the front joint very well and decided this would be a better approach. The wheelhouse is thus now fastened to the lower superstructure.
Through the removable roof section access to the interior light and the radar scanner motor can be gained. The second picture also shows the motor driveshaft extending upwards through the roof. Plan is to extend the shaft up to the platform on which the scanner sits and then use gears from an old clock to offset the drive forward and position the scanner in the correct location.
Thanks for the positive comments. Nice to get encouragement from one's peers, I only see the flaws!
The comment on the deck bending in heat is one have not considered. it is a real possibility as I live in Canada.
Currently the deck is held down by several screws that will eventually be hidden by deck detail. Could increase the number fairly readily and also introduce reinforcements under the styrene. Thanks for the warning.
It was my plan to keep adding to this blog and will be including pictures to show further progress.
Spent the last week working on the mainmast.
Purchased a slow speed 12v motor to make the radar scanner operable. Also wanted to make the mast removable to reduce possible transport damage. By pulling gently upwards the mast and driveshaft pinion can be disengaged and the mast lifted off the model.
Attached is a picture of the motor and integral gearbox. This was mounted upside down to the wheelhouse internal roof with the driveshaft poking through and pointing upwards (see last bog for a picture).
The internal mast tube slipped snugly onto gearbox output shaft sleeve. The output shaft was extended up to the mast radar platform level using a length of brass tube with a small pinion gear fitted into the end.
Used two idler gears from an old clock (which also provided the input shaft and radar shaft pinions) to link the input pinion to the scanner shaft pinion. This geartrain provided the correct offset for the scanner mounting shaft.
The platform was made from styrene with brass bushes fitted to act as bearings for the pinions and idler gears. Unfortunately the platform is deeper than shown on the drawings, but it does not look out of place and is an appropriate place to use "modellers licence". This approach avoided having the scanner motor slung under the platform and visible.
The upper part of the mast was made from brass and functioning navigation lights added.
Still a lot of mast detail to add, but the major structure is now complete and everything works!
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Spent the last week working on the mainmast.
Purchased a slow speed 12v motor to make the radar scanner operable. Also wanted to make the mast removable to reduce possible transport damage. By pulling gently upwards the mast and driveshaft pinion can be disengaged and the mast lifted off the model.
Attached is a picture of the motor and integral gearbox. This was mounted upside down to the wheelhouse internal roof with the driveshaft poking through and pointing upwards (see last bog for a picture).
The internal mast tube slipped snugly onto gearbox output shaft sleeve. The output shaft was extended up to the mast radar platform level using a length of brass tube with a small pinion gear fitted into the end.
Used two idler gears from an old clock (which also provided the input shaft and radar shaft pinions) to link the input pinion to the scanner shaft pinion. This geartrain provided the correct offset for the scanner mounting shaft.
The platform was made from styrene with brass bushes fitted to act as bearings for the pinions and idler gears. Unfortunately the platform is deeper than shown on the drawings, but it does not look out of place and is an appropriate place to use "modellers licence". This approach avoided having the scanner motor slung under the platform and visible.
The upper part of the mast was made from brass and functioning navigation lights added.
Still a lot of mast detail to add, but the major structure is now complete and everything works!
Finished the funnel and engine room cover, so hull and superstructure are now structurally complete. This has taken 5 months, very much assisted by being retired; had it been done during more usual leisure hours would have taken considerably longer. The Canadian winter has also helped by reducing the outside distractions.
Now moving onto the many detail fittings this model abounds with so milestones will be further apart so expect my blog entries to be more sporadic.
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Finished the funnel and engine room cover, so hull and superstructure are now structurally complete. This has taken 5 months, very much assisted by being retired; had it been done during more usual leisure hours would have taken considerably longer. The Canadian winter has also helped by reducing the outside distractions.
Now moving onto the many detail fittings this model abounds with so milestones will be further apart so expect my blog entries to be more sporadic.
Sorry, uploaded wrong photos, these are the correct one. Apologies
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Had the opportunity to do a trail ballast run. As a result, made some modifications and added weight.
To get almost down to the lower boot topping line, a total ballast weight of 5 lbs is needed. This is made up of about 2 lbs of lead dispersed from the bow to the first bulkhead, (approx 7" sternwards) and then two 6v SLA batteries (1 3/4" lbs ea), the first located just forward of the superstructure and the second just to the rear.
This gives a fairly good trim, further trim ballast will be required when all the deck fittings are added. Both batteries are now laid flat to reduce the C of G and improve stability.
The vessel is wired with both 6 volt batteries in series to give 12 v. Had been warned that at 12 volts the model is overpowered, which can now confirm.
Unfortunately 12 volts is needed for the radar scanner and lights. Have thus ordered a voltage reducer so the motor voltage can be adjusted to something in the 6 volt range.
Back now to building deck furniture and making the many finishing touches
Had the opportunity to do a trail ballast run. As a result, made some modifications and added weight.
To get almost down to the lower boot topping line, a total ballast weight of 5 lbs is needed. This is made up of about 2 lbs of lead dispersed from the bow to the first bulkhead, (approx 7" sternwards) and then two 6v SLA batteries (1 3/4" lbs ea), the first located just forward of the superstructure and the second just to the rear.
This gives a fairly good trim, further trim ballast will be required when all the deck fittings are added. Both batteries are now laid flat to reduce the C of G and improve stability.
The vessel is wired with both 6 volt batteries in series to give 12 v. Had been warned that at 12 volts the model is overpowered, which can now confirm.
Unfortunately 12 volts is needed for the radar scanner and lights. Have thus ordered a voltage reducer so the motor voltage can be adjusted to something in the 6 volt range.
Back now to building deck furniture and making the many finishing touches
I have the 48 inch long hms bull dog this runs on 12 volt 7 ap battery with two 12 volt motors and it runs fine useing 2 electronize speed controlls with bec and useing the speed controll biult in to go fast or slow.
Finished the fore and stern decks.
Most of the fittings are either scratch built, with some from a couple of specialist epoxy cast item suppliers.
The plans and ship pictures enabled the fore deck to be made quite accurately. That is not the case with the stern as the plans, pictures of other models and actual vessels show several differences. Ended up using Modelers license to arrive at a layout which seems representative of the class.
The only approach that could be considered out of the ordinary was the Land Rover installation.
Made up a mounting plate as no self respecting RN crew could live with the oil pools on the decking! This is held down with a female jack-plug socket which can be used to charge the batteries. The corresponding male jack-plug is fitted to the underside of the Land Rover so the vehicle can be fitted onto the plate and held in place.
The picture also shows a screw fitting where one of the deck derricks, which are held down with magnets, is located. This screw also holds down the removable deck.
Now moving onto the centre superstructure. One of the opportunities presented is the 28'6" survey boat, which is similar to an Admirals barge. Does anybody know where I can get plans for this? 1:48 scale would be ideal, although can scale if necessary.
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Finished the fore and stern decks.
Most of the fittings are either scratch built, with some from a couple of specialist epoxy cast item suppliers.
The plans and ship pictures enabled the fore deck to be made quite accurately. That is not the case with the stern as the plans, pictures of other models and actual vessels show several differences. Ended up using Modelers license to arrive at a layout which seems representative of the class.
The only approach that could be considered out of the ordinary was the Land Rover installation.
Made up a mounting plate as no self respecting RN crew could live with the oil pools on the decking! This is held down with a female jack-plug socket which can be used to charge the batteries. The corresponding male jack-plug is fitted to the underside of the Land Rover so the vehicle can be fitted onto the plate and held in place.
The picture also shows a screw fitting where one of the deck derricks, which are held down with magnets, is located. This screw also holds down the removable deck.
Now moving onto the centre superstructure. One of the opportunities presented is the 28'6" survey boat, which is similar to an Admirals barge. Does anybody know where I can get plans for this? 1:48 scale would be ideal, although can scale if necessary.
Looking neatly complete. Neat idea to use a plg to charge the batteries.
I have a steam picket boat which is similar to the Admirals barge but not as shiny. I will send you a pm with a pic. I have plans for this.
Dave
Thanks Dave and to the others who have responded.
The steam picket boat you sent looks to be twin screw and a longer vessel than the survey boat / barge I am looking for. Have attached a picture showing the plan side view, does anybody have anything on these lines?
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Thanks Dave and to the others who have responded.
The steam picket boat you sent looks to be twin screw and a longer vessel than the survey boat / barge I am looking for. Have attached a picture showing the plan side view, does anybody have anything on these lines?
Hi, I've just sent you a private message with the 25Ft motor boat details I have from my post WW2 Warship. Hope they help? if you need more detailed images let me know.