€26,50 here, tax included Rod. Still worth every cent.
No hardener, no pong no mess. People friendly😊
Cheers, Doug😎

CAN$32 here+13% tax. My 1st bottle was $35 18mo ago

Colin, That is my choice since discovering Ezekote some years ago.
Fortunately I can get mine here in Germany from Krick.
I thin it with ~20% water so that it soaks into the wood.
Especially for balsa, soaks in and strengthens it.
Then a coat or two of neat Ezekote, no glass on ply, maybe tissue inside and out on balsa for added 'ding' resistance.

Cheers, Doug😎

Or you could seal using ezekote water thin-able resin and fine glass cloth which is odourless, colourless and dry enough to paint over in 30 mins with any type of paint without getting a reaction.
Cheers Colin.

Sorry.. There is a PS to my last Post..
After applying the tissue and dope, you will have to apply another 3 coats of the 50/50 Dope/Thinners concoction, and of course rubbing down between coats, just to give the new applied coat a "key".. Once completed , a paint of your choice can be applied, I tend to use Acrilic paint from Halfords, starting with a couple of coats of Grey primer, rubbing down between all coats, then apply colours of your coice, if more than one coat is required, dont forget to rub it down for next coat to have a key..

ATB Muddy..

HEllo... Sealing Balsa wood or Ply..
Balsa I have always given the wood about 6 coats of Cellulose Dope but thinned 50/50 with Cellulose Thinners available from most car Paint supplies/Motor Factors, The Thinners is not cheap. That is for sealing Balsa, but to help strengthen the Balsa Use about 3 coats of 50/50 dope /thinners, then apply some Medium grade Tissue Paper as was/is used by aero modelers.
Place the Tissue on the pre-treated wood and paint over and into the tissue , just like hanging wallpaper, Dont have any "Cut" joints, tear the paper to size, the teared joints will be near to invisable apon completion of the dopeing process..
Good luck, and dont forget a mask, the thinners and Dope can be very strong in the odure range. Do it outside or in a drafty place..
ATB Muddy..

This I use on my projects before paint but as already said each to there own

Hi John if you are using car colour acryllics from Halfords you are supposed to finish the spraying off with the clear spray, this hardens the finished surface.

When all hardened off, for hulls, I usually apply a quality furniture polish to finish. Many of my models have survived for 10 / 20 years without any attention.

regards
Roy

hi there

I am in the camp of the cellulose sand n sealer along with the acrylic sealer as well. In some extreme cases, I will go in with an epoxy resin. Thinned down, to allow it to soak into the balsa wood.

I have found that the cellulose gives a harder finish and is more 'shall we say' 'ding' resistant than the acrylic. The acrylic does tend to be a bit softer - as you can sometimes (if you stick your nail into it) it will leave a mark.

The epoxy can give you a really hard finish The only thing I can think of on the minus side - is to be careful of when you purchase your sand n sealer, there are brands on the market which are used in wood working, as in building furniture and soforth. This has a slight wax in it.

John

My preference is for oil based paints.
Prime with ordinary wood primer (oil based), rub down with fine sandpaper and give a second coat. Then go ahead with undercoats, gloss coats etc.
OR, after the first primer, rub down then go ahead with spray car primer (Eg Halfords grey or red)
OR, prime with Halfords spray car primer, rub down, give second coat primer, rub down, then top coats.
If you prefer to use acrylic paints I suggest watering down the first coat, then rub down, then second coat (also watered down). I don't know how car primer will take to this.
OR, just varnish, rub down, varnish, rub down, repeat, repeat, repeat.
Hope this helps
😉