Doogle, how thick are your masts?

Bravissimo RossM.

Like that? I got my BERTOCCI from an online bead site (I am learning Italian!!)

Hi Doogle.

I attach other images.
I don't give you advice because you don't need it.
I just give an explanation of the photos and repeat the method I used.

I would choose between two gooseneck boom systems, one older and one more modern.

The first three images show the system similar to mine. It is the more modern of the two.
I don't know exactly when it was introduced. At his time I did some research to understand which one suited my model chronologically (which is from the second half of the 19th century).
I discovered that this was a transition period and therefore I could use either one or the other.
In other words, one system was already in use but the other had not yet been completely abandoned.
I used the more modern system for the boom (it also had to be functional being a sailing RC model) and the other for the peak (or spanker).

The first system (the most modern) has small variations so you are very free in the construction. Just allow for sideways and upward movement.
I made it in brass. I only used a file and hacksaw.
If you have better tools available it will be better for you.
You can carry out many tests and throw away the prototypes that don't satisfy you (the cost will be negligible, not like plexiglass ahahahahahah, one shot one kill).

The fourth to ninth images illustrate the old system.
The fork is a little wider than the mast and is therefore able to rotate on it.
It is held by a rope on which a sort of holed balls are strung (which in Italy we call "bertocci").
They allow the boom or mast to slide up and down on the mast reducing friction.

You can make the fork yourself out of wood. Model shops sell bertocci (it's also in the Amati catalogue).
I had to make it with thin plastic shapes overlapped and glued (as you can see in the last four attached photos) because it had to be very resistant. In wood, if it moved continuously, it would have broken.
Maybe you won't have this problem when working on a larger scale.

I hope I helped you a little, but if you want more details, no problem.

With regards to the coffee ☕️ RossM, I don't remember exactly where I read the article, probably from one of those "wormholes "you can get into when you're researching something else on the "net". I knew that tea 🍵/coffee 🍵 can be used for staining/dyeing cloth but this was a new one on me. Plenty of used coffee pads which normally get composted, stuck them in a jar 🫙 with a little water 💧 and there's the result. I personally think it's OK and protected now with some matt lacquer via a rattle can. If all else fails in the future, just sand it down lightly and start again. Plus if you need an excuse, it's a great way of enjoying a Bailey's or anything else of that nature as a perfect accompaniment 😂😂

For what I am building your deck staining is of interest, (break out the coffee!!)

Hi Alessandro, much appreciated. Funnily enough I was just out in the garage/workshop wondering if I could build something similar to your photos/drawings. Anything else you might have gratefully accepted 😉

Hi Doogle.

You could use this method to connect the boom to the mast.

I'm attaching these photos but tonight I'll do a search on my folders on my PC and send you more images.

Thanks Roy, now looking at gooseneck fittings, I've learnt something new today 😀

Hi Dougal lovely job! Goosenecks, there are lots of pictures on-line. In practice many fishing boats had a small row-boat as well as a lot of untidy netting.

Most times being tidy was secondary being safe was more important and it probably was'nt their boat anyway!

Hope you find some crew for her.
regards
Roy

Chris,
Looking really good.
Enjoy the Bailey’s
Regards
Bill👍👍🎅

Mini-Wax stains come in various applications both gel and liquid.
The results will change depending upon the wood you are applying the product onto, balsa is very absorbent where as maple or oak will have a different result. Suggest you do testing prior to putting the product on your project.

Yes, there’s the retired shop teacher part of me coming out from the woodwork.

What I have found that is closest to Mahogany is Minwax Sedona Red stain. When applied to balsa (couple coats) it looks great.

One of those good ideas to keep in mind👍

The coloring seems optimal to me.

Why not?!? It's Christmas time

Back in the late 1960s and early 1970s we used to dye white T-shirts with tea or coffee, in the days b4 printed or dark-coloured T's became common. Of course Mom wud always want to bleach them !! 🤔

Get some photos of real fishing boat decks and that will help you decide how you want yours to look, eh? 😉

Perfect Doogle, I'm curious to see the results.
You are right to be cautious.

Thanks for the information Roycv, much appreciated. I've only got limited intel on the Osprey and have been doing a bit of research on Scottish fishing boats which I gather this model is based on. With regards to the deck staining Alessandro, I'm trying out 3 different types on some scrap decking - one being rooibos tea (red bush), Yorkshire tea (only the best in my humble opinion) and finally coffee . Once applied and dried, I can then decide which to use

Great work Doogle.

I've heard that many people use the tea method to give a more realistic ("lived-in") look to sails, but not on wood.
You always learn something new.
Will you carry out tests or apply the method directly to the deck?

Hi you can go for pretty with a brownish woodstain or go for actual which looks greyish. If this were cleaned it would be a bit silvery if it was teak or possibly fish scales.

Fishing boats are notoriously untidy on deck with usually some dark coloured netting on board.

Something that gets forgotten (I am sure not by your good self) is what the boat
is set up to catch. With the smaller boats 70 - 90 feet they are mainly not far off the coast. They will follow the the various fish shoals that pass by during the year and the method of catching will vary accordingly.

For instance with the Billing Mary Ann she is fishing in the North sea and what looks like a rescue beacon, the red buoy is part of the fishing method.

It is dropped in first when the tide is high and it has one edge of the net attached and then the fishing boat sails away and round so that the open mouth of the net catches the fish (herring) coming past as the tide falls and flows into the net.

The little staysail at the stern keeps the boat steady as they sit there for 4 hours or so waitng for the fish, then she completes the loop and the catch is hauled in.

Note there are Trawl boards on one side of the boat only and these locate the net down low or on the bottom.

If you copy the Mary Ann deck layout then the winch should be 90 degrees round from where it is so it can face where the net haul comes in.

I found out too late for my 2 Mary Ann's!

The Billing Cux 87 has identical hull construction but is set up for shrimping with the long trawl board under the net. Also bear in mind the shrimps are boiled on deck so quite different layout.

Good luck with the build and final choice of deck colour.
Roy

Often, what I do for the inside sealing (I use spar varnish) of the hull (wood hull and wood deck) is to brush on the sealer on all surfaces except where other wood items would need to be glued in place, especially where the joint where the deck is glued down.

Next is to seal the under side of the deck except where the glue will be placed to mate with the hull. This assures a bare wood to wood joint when using wood glue (I uses Titebond II).

After the glue dries well I need to seal the deck/hull joint. If the deck opening is large enough I use a mirror and brush on the sealer. If I can't get to the joint, I will pour in the sealer, turn the boat on its side and rotate the boat so the sealer flows all around the seam. Set the boat on its bottom and remove any excess sealer (optional).

This should completely seal the inside of the boat.

Lew
Florida ⛱️, USA

Flaxbybuck, thanks for the compliments, with regards to varnish on the inside, she's already been coated- but I'll be sure to double check for possible leaks when I'm trying her out for ballast 😊

That's a tidy looking interior Doogle. Don't forget to paint or varnish or resin the whole of the inside before it becomes inaccessible. 😉