Display Case for Model Boats
I thought you fellow model boaters might be interested in how I built a case for my Wiesel "Schnellboot". It certainly keeps the dust off. I have posted this on a build blog, hopefully it will be easy to find in the future.
First, the Wiesel model is 42 inches long by 7 inches wide X 16 inches high. In designing the case I wanted a clear unobstructed side view of the model which demands a single large pane. Therefore the model has to be removed via a side panel, and in this case I decided to make both ends to open. I also wanted clear top to allow light in.
Rather than use expensive wood, I opted for widely available lumber (white wood) which I would stain to a Walnut color. I used "1 by XX" lumber which is about 3/4 inch thick. This case is symmetrical (except for the doors swing) so it could be set in the middle of a room and viewed all around.
The base is 3/4" X 12" X 54". The other pieces are 3/4" X 1 inch by various lengths. The model sits on a removable base and stand stained to the same Walnut color.
I found one of the local plastics distributors sells 4 ft X 8 ft plexiglass sheets about .100 inch thick. for a small extra charge (by the cut) they have an accurate and quick saw that did a great job. I made the drawing (attached) for the cuts and a few days later picked up the panels.
Found some nice brass latches and hinges for the end doors in a local store.
The wood is cut to the needed sizes. Using my table saw I made the grooves for the panels to slide into. My sawblade was slightly wider that the thickness of the panels.
Note that I did not glue the panels in place. Everything held pretty good. When moving the case take the model out to avoid breaking the joints. I also added some corner bracings in the top to side corners (see photo).
Steps:
1 - Determine the size and make drawings for the wood and plexiglass.
2 - Obtain materials
3 - Cut the wood pieces.
4 - Stain the wood pieces except for where they are glued to make strong joints.
5 - Assemble sliding the panes into the grooves. Glue joint. I used a pneumatic nail gun to make the joints stronger as well as making the assembly faster.
6 - Varnish the finish, masking off the panes. (Do some thinking ahead on some of the pieces on the inside of the case before assembly.)
7 - Enjoy your model in its new home.
I also made a matching box for the fluorescent tube lights (they didn't have good LED strips back when I built this) that sits on top of the case. Good lighting is recommended.
Photos:
01 - Full side.
02 - Corner view.
03 - Door latch.
04 - Internal corner brace (1 of 4).
05 - Slightly different corner view with model slid out slightly.
06 - Top of case.
07 - Top of case (light on).
08 - Full side (light on).
09 - Display case drawing.
10 - Layout drawing for cutting panes.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Lew
Florida 💡, USA
First, the Wiesel model is 42 inches long by 7 inches wide X 16 inches high. In designing the case I wanted a clear unobstructed side view of the model which demands a single large pane. Therefore the model has to be removed via a side panel, and in this case I decided to make both ends to open. I also wanted clear top to allow light in.
Rather than use expensive wood, I opted for widely available lumber (white wood) which I would stain to a Walnut color. I used "1 by XX" lumber which is about 3/4 inch thick. This case is symmetrical (except for the doors swing) so it could be set in the middle of a room and viewed all around.
The base is 3/4" X 12" X 54". The other pieces are 3/4" X 1 inch by various lengths. The model sits on a removable base and stand stained to the same Walnut color.
I found one of the local plastics distributors sells 4 ft X 8 ft plexiglass sheets about .100 inch thick. for a small extra charge (by the cut) they have an accurate and quick saw that did a great job. I made the drawing (attached) for the cuts and a few days later picked up the panels.
Found some nice brass latches and hinges for the end doors in a local store.
The wood is cut to the needed sizes. Using my table saw I made the grooves for the panels to slide into. My sawblade was slightly wider that the thickness of the panels.
Note that I did not glue the panels in place. Everything held pretty good. When moving the case take the model out to avoid breaking the joints. I also added some corner bracings in the top to side corners (see photo).
Steps:
1 - Determine the size and make drawings for the wood and plexiglass.
2 - Obtain materials
3 - Cut the wood pieces.
4 - Stain the wood pieces except for where they are glued to make strong joints.
5 - Assemble sliding the panes into the grooves. Glue joint. I used a pneumatic nail gun to make the joints stronger as well as making the assembly faster.
6 - Varnish the finish, masking off the panes. (Do some thinking ahead on some of the pieces on the inside of the case before assembly.)
7 - Enjoy your model in its new home.
I also made a matching box for the fluorescent tube lights (they didn't have good LED strips back when I built this) that sits on top of the case. Good lighting is recommended.
Photos:
01 - Full side.
02 - Corner view.
03 - Door latch.
04 - Internal corner brace (1 of 4).
05 - Slightly different corner view with model slid out slightly.
06 - Top of case.
07 - Top of case (light on).
08 - Full side (light on).
09 - Display case drawing.
10 - Layout drawing for cutting panes.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Lew
Florida 💡, USA
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