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    Clinker built sailing dinghy
    12 Posts ยท 15 Followers ยท 77 Photos ยท 201 Likes
    Began 4 months ago by
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    Latest Post 6 days ago by
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    ๐Ÿ“ Decking
    6 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Graham93 ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 29 Views ยท 14 Likes ยท 4 Comments
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    Time to get back to the build!

    A support framework for the decking was glued in place. As the timber sections are quite small, this framework is not very strong, but it should be sufficient to support the deck planks. The strength will come from the glued on planking.

    Before fitting the decking, the space between the forward bulkheads was filled with polystyrene beads coated with PVA glue. This is to provide some bouyancy in case of a capsize! The space between the bulkheads at the stern was filled in a similar way. Holes at the bottom of the bulkheads ensure that any water which does get into this space will be able to drain out.

    The decking is constructed from offcuts of the mahogany hull planking. At the stern, a piece of the decking can be removed to provide access to the rudder servo.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Decking
    5 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Graham93 ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 12 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    Hi Alessandro,

    The space for the polystyrene is small, but itโ€™s the only option to hide some buoyancy. Iโ€™m going to have to be careful when sailing this!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Decking
    5 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡น AlessandroSPQR ( Rear Admiral)
    โœง 20 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Hi Graham93, beautiful boat.

    " Before fitting the decking, the space between the forward bulkheads was filled with polystyrene beads coated with PVA glue."
    Great idea, very good.

    Anyone who has unused space available should use this trick.
    However, the space occupied by the polystyrene still seems small to me (I'm certainly wrong though).

    To be sure we should know the submerged volume of your boat.
    Do you know him or did you make an eye estimate?
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Decking
    6 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Razor1955 ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
    โœง 26 Views ยท 5 Likes
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    Fine craftsmanship! She is looking good.
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Decking
    6 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Len1 ( Lieutenant)
    โœง 24 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    well done. Like the progress to date. Len
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    ๐Ÿ“ Thwarts
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Graham93 ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 52 Views ยท 11 Likes ยท 1 Comment
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    Two 4mm square oak risers were fitted along the length of the hull, one each side. These are to support the thwarts. They had to be fitted at the same height as the keel box. This took a lot of time measuring and adjusting the position before finally glueing and pinning them into position. In the end, they turned out to be slightly higher than they should have been, but that's much better than being too low resulting in the thwarts fouling the keel box!

    A cardboard template was traced from the plan and then adjusted slightly to fit in place sitting on the risers. The template was then used to mark out the thwarts which were cut from more of the salvaged oak tabletop.

    Finally the thwarts were glued together and then glued and pinned onto the risers. The forward thwart has a hole for the mast to pass through. As this thwart will take some strain from the mast it was glued and pinned to the risers and the keel box. Additional reinforcing oak blocks were added to strengthen the joints. The hull hadn't been varnished at the position of the thwart ends so the reinforcement block could be glued in position. Once the glue was set, the varnish was touched up.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Thwarts
    22 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง AndyB2 ( Leading Seaman)
    โœง 42 Views ยท 4 Likes
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    Sorry but Iโ€™ve not been on the forum for a while. But this a very impressive model, really quite exceptional and it sails ! Fantastic
    ๐Ÿ“ Mast Step
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Graham93 ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 61 Views ยท 12 Likes ยท 4 Comments
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    The mast passes through the forward thwart with the foot of the mast resting on the keel. There is no information on the plan detailing where exactly the mast rests on the keel so I decided to make an adjustable mast step so the position can be adjusted.

    A short length of brass angle was marked and drilled with 1.5mm holes. The spacings are not as even as I would have liked, but the best I could do, and near enough. The angle was then cut down to leave a row of notches. An additional length of brass was silver soldered to the angle to produce a 'T' section.

    For the foot of the mast, a fitting was made to push on to the end of the mast, with a slot which fits over the brass T section. A pin fixed across the slot (difficult to see in photo 3) engages with one of the notches in the T section.

    Finally, the T section was glued and pinned in position on the keel.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Mast Step
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Graham93 ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 52 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Hi flaxbybuck,

    You are probably right, I'll set it up for one position, and never change it, but it's nice to have the option just in case ๐Ÿ˜‰ Not planning to enter any races with this build ๐Ÿ˜‚
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Mast Step
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Graham93 ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 52 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Hi Ron,

    Thanks for the contact details for Paul. It's good to know there's someone I can get help from if I need it.

    I enjoy scratch building like this as it gives me plenty of challenges to solve which is a large part of the enjoyment with the build. By making the mast step adjustable, I'll be able to change the mast rake to try out the effect of different angles. If I had fixed it, I expect it would sail OK, but I'd never know if a different angle would have been better.
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Mast Step
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Captain)
    โœง 59 Views ยท 4 Likes
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    I have used an adjustable mast step like this on a couple of boats, but having sailed them have come to the conclusion that it is only worth the effort on class racing boats where fine tuning can make a difference.
    You're making a lovely job of this boat and I look forward to seeing it on the water. Good luck ๐Ÿ˜‰
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Mast Step
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฆ Ronald ( Admiral)
    โœง 80 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Have you asked Paul Gartside about the mast rake angle?

    Try emailing him at:

    info@gartsideboats.com

    You should get a rapid response.


    https://www.gartsideboats.com/
    ๐Ÿ“ Radio Installation
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Graham93 ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 85 Views ยท 15 Likes ยท 2 Comments
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    I want to hide the radio gear as far as is possible. Not easy with an open dinghy. There are two enclosed spaces, one at the bow, and one at the stern.

    A wooden tray and support were added behind the forward bulkhead for the receiver. The tray slides out through the bulkhead and is held in the closed position with a magnet. This position keeps the receiver as high as possible for better reception and hopefully will avoid any water that might get into the boat.

    The rudder servo is mounted between the rear bulkhead and the transom. Once the rear deck is in place only the servo shaft will be visible. The deck will need to be removable to allow access for servo maintenance.

    There isn't anywhere to hide the sail winch so it is mounted as low as possible at the forward end, just behind the forward bulkhead. This will hide it from view when the boat is out on the water. A mounting bracket was made from a short length of aluminium angle.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Radio Installation
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡น AlessandroSPQR ( Rear Admiral)
    โœง 68 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Hi Graham93 I observe this work with attention and admiration, thanks for the step by step details. They are essential for anyone who wants to learn.
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Radio Installation
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ซ๐Ÿ‡ท stotty1111 ( Warrant Officer)
    โœง 87 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Mine being of larger scale, I was able to hide the mini rx, and sail winch in the forward compartment, the rudder servo is in the rear compartment, and when sailing a 5 'D' cell pack was mounted under the rear seat, cabling for the servo and power supply are hidden under the side decking.
    All a little crude but it worked!
    ๐Ÿ“ Floorboards
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Graham93 ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 91 Views ยท 23 Likes ยท 5 Comments
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    The plan includes templates for the floor boards. I decided to split the boards in half lengthways to make the completed floor easier to remove.

    The templates were glued to some 3mm thick cherry planks, cut out with the bandsaw and then glued to support beams.

    The completed floor panels fitted into the hull with very little adjustment needed. Much easier than the hull planking where the increase in model scale resulted in the templates becoming distorted.

    At this stage, the hull was given several coats of yacht varnish inside and out because it will become more difficult to apply any finish to the inside as construction continues.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Floorboards
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Graham93 ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 65 Views ยท 1 Like
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    Thanks Mike,

    While I am in awe with what can be achieved with laser cutters and 3D printers these days, nothing beats the satisfaction of hand crafting something IMHO ๐Ÿ˜†
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Floorboards
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ญ Mike Stoney ( Commander)
    โœง 77 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    Hello Graham,
    That's awesome . . . all handmade! Bravo!
    I would have made all this with a laser cutter.
    Hats off to you!
    Michel-C.
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Floorboards
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Captain)
    โœง 84 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    Well done Graham. You have real craftsmanship, and I guess, much patience. I love the attention to detail in the construction, eg. spacing of the pins, and spacing of the floorboards. All done with precision and care. Wonderful !๐Ÿ˜‰
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Floorboards
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Graham93 ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 88 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Hi Ronald,

    I havenโ€™t nailed the floorboards as Iโ€™ve run out of nails! Thanks for the link - interesting information. Iโ€™ve used cherry for the floorboards as I happened to have a few boards in my stock. It is very fine grained and looks โ€˜rightโ€™ for this application. Photo 4 shows it with itโ€™s first coat of varnish.
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Floorboards
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฆ Ronald ( Admiral)
    โœง 103 Views ยท 4 Likes
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    Looking forward to seeing what you do next. Are the floorboards also fastened with brass nails as you did on the planks? Be careful to choose tight grain wood especially if the finished model is left with natural wood which shows the grain. If you plan to paint the floor boards this is not as much of a visual issue.

    Here is an excellent link that demonstrates what I am expressing. I know as model builders, finding the right wood to finish our model can be a challenge as the scale of the model is smaller than their full-sized counterpart.


    https://duffieldtimber.com/the-workbench/categories/timber-trends/wood-grain-pat
    ๐Ÿ“ Nailing the Planks
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Graham93 ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 104 Views ยท 21 Likes ยท 3 Comments
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    In traditional clinker built boats the planks are nailed together with square shank copper nails. These are clenched on rooves or copper washers in the inside. At 1/6th scale, this would be difficult to achieve (!) so I opted for a sipler approach of using 0.6mm dia brass pins.

    The pins for the first rib were fitted by drilling 0.4mm holes from the inside of the hull, through the ribs and planks. Once that datum had been established a compass was used to measure the distance between ribs on the inside of the hull. This dimension was then transferred to the outside so that the holes for the pins could be predrilled in the correct position at the edge of the planks. The occasional hole in the wrong position was redrilled. Those in the wrong position are not noticeable and will be sealed when the hull is varnished.

    In total 550 nails were fitted!

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Nailing the Planks
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡ช RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 103 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    Well, I reckon you nailed her good Admiral๐Ÿ‘
    BRAVO ZULU.

    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Nailing the Planks
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฆ RossM ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 104 Views ยท 7 Likes
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    Graham:

    On mine I pressed the pins in with slightly modified pliers, ( a groove cut in to jaw to accept the pin) and then pulled them snug from the inside
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Nailing the Planks
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฆ Ronald ( Admiral)
    โœง 119 Views ยท 6 Likes
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    Amazing patience to stick with it! Very resourceful and skilled work. Well done! I hope the family will appreciate the work you put into this project and it will be passed along through the generations.
    ๐Ÿ“ Ribs
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Graham93 ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 110 Views ยท 14 Likes
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    Before fitting the ribs, I cut gunwales from oak and glued and clamped them in position. These were flexible enough to bend into shape and clamp in position without steaming. Unfortunately, the ribs have a sharper bend and could not be bent dry without splitting.

    A steamer was constructed using offcuts of plastic drainpipe (I knew it would come in one day!). Steam was generated using an electric wallpaper stripper. Strips of oak with a cross section of 25 x 4mm were steamed for 30 minutes and then clamped in a jig overnight. The bent strips were then cut using a bandsaw into 4 x 4 mm ribs.

    While I have a good collection of clamps, I didn't have any of a suitable size to allow the ribs to be clamped in place along the keel. So more of the oak (recycled tabletop) was used to make a couple of long reach clamps using 8mm threaded rod for the clamp screws and to reinforce the frame.

    Finally, the ribs were glued into position, two at a time.

    ๐Ÿ“ More Planking
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Graham93 ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 125 Views ยท 25 Likes ยท 14 Comments
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    As the planking continues, the planks become more and more curved to the point where it is not possible to cut a plank from the 25mm wide mahogany strips. Curved blanks had to be made using two or even three pieces scarphed together. A curved plank, ready for fitting made from three pieces can be seen in the first photo.

    A second problem that became apparent was that the templates included as part of the plan were not the right shape for the enlarged scale being used. The planks required more curvature than shown on the plan. I think this was caused by the change in scale rather than an inherent error in the original plans. Changing the scale of a 2D drawing of a plank which is going to be bent into a 3D object doesn't work.

    The templates had to be dispensed with, and each plank marked and shaped to fit by trying it in place on the hull over and over again. It took around 2 hours to shape each plank before it was ready to glue and clamp into position.

    Finally, all the planks were in place and the completed hull could be removed from the strongback. The three central formers were removed giving a clear open interior.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: More Planking
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡ช RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 114 Views ยท 1 Like
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    Thank you Sub.
    Just remember; "I'm Number One round here, and don't you forget it!"
    'Grub's up ...'
    "Oh good oh! SNORKERS!"๐Ÿ˜‹

    ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: More Planking
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฆ RossM ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 115 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Scaling up or down can be cruel, or maybe that was the sea.
    (over to you, Doug)
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: More Planking
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 121 Views ยท 4 Likes
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    Hi Graham,
    dinghy is looking great๐Ÿ‘ I found the same thing -re scaling up- with my runabout from 18" to 32", puts all the dimensions out of whack. No doubt because you are producing an entirely different boat by just scaling up the length. You probably have to scale every other dimension by the same amount to keep things correct. I found things like framing became massive and had to reduce some by 50% in some cases. Had a similar problem with my seaplane tender, -bulkheads were ok, but I had to re-design all the framing as I went.

    JB
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: More Planking
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Graham93 ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 118 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    Stotty,

    Very nice build.๐Ÿ‘ It looks to be based on the same plans I'm using. I like the way you have hidden the radio gear, that's something I'm currently thinking about a solution for.
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: More Planking
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Graham93 ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 118 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    Doug,

    Roll on Feb 30th ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿคฃ
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: More Planking
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Graham93 ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 118 Views ยท 5 Likes
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    Hi Ross,

    I didn't have to soak or steam the planks. I was surprised that they would bend easily to shape 'cold'. As you can see, I used plenty of clamps, but that was to ensure that the overlapping seams were tight while the glue dried.

    Very pleased with it so far, although there are always bits that could have been done better!
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: More Planking
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ซ๐Ÿ‡ท stotty1111 ( Warrant Officer)
    โœง 120 Views ยท 16 Likes
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    So have retrieved my 1:4 scale dinghy from my club premises here in Chateaulin!
    I attach a set of views, the piece was built about 25 years ago, it sailed after a fashion, but I had problems finding sail materials, so set to one side,
    It did however win the gold award at a show held in Concarneau in late 2003!
    My intention was to convert the 'Bermudan' rig into a gaff sail etc, never got around to it as other things took over.
    The other problem associated with sailing was the overall weight, see photo of keel, which weighed in at 8.5kgs
    I suppose with the recent discussions about sail materials, it might be time to return to have another attempt with sail making and eventually sailing!
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: More Planking
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฆ RossM ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 122 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    We could call the award PLANK'S CONSTANT. ๐Ÿ˜‰

    No eh?
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: More Planking
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡ช RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 122 Views ยท 4 Likes
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    "Give me excess of it, that, surfeiting, the hull may may be strong, and so float."
    Twelfth Night, Act 1 Scene 1. Well๐Ÿ˜ sort of๐Ÿ˜‰
    Apologies to Willy and Count Orsino.
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: More Planking
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฆ RossM ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 122 Views ยท 5 Likes
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    Doug,

    I'm not worthy to hold Graham's saw blades, but I am learning from here. Is one going to have to submit a masterpiece for adjudication to be allowed admission to the Guild?

    If wood be the food of boats, plank on!

    Ross
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: More Planking
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡ช RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 123 Views ยท 4 Likes
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    Yes Ross I guess I am, in a highly complimentary sense of course.
    BTW: If you feel you can match Graham's skill and magic with wood you may consider yourself a member of the newly founded (just dreamed it up๐Ÿ˜‡๐Ÿ˜) MB Website Honourable Guild of Worthy Plankers.๐Ÿ˜‰
    Presentation of the annual award of 'Planker of the Year' shall henceforth be made on the 30th February. So Carry On Planking folks.๐Ÿ‘

    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: More Planking
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฆ RossM ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 123 Views ยท 4 Likes
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    Are you callin' us PLANKERS, Doug? owait we are๐Ÿ˜€
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: More Planking
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฆ RossM ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    โœง 123 Views ยท 4 Likes
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    I ran into the same issue with scaling up drawing, mostly with the framing. They don't seem to match up.

    Did you soak/steam the planks?

    I used heavy straight pins with glue to glue & 'nail' the planks, instead of clamping the plank in place. I watched a video on the rebuilding of BLUENOSE II. They had as much trouble fitting planks as the rest of usโ˜น๏ธ It looks good, are you pleased with the results?
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: More Planking
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡ช RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 124 Views ยท 4 Likes
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    Exquisite work Graham๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
    To paraphrase 'Only Fools and Horses' ...
    What a planker! ๐Ÿ˜ฎ

    Cheers, Doug๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ“ Planking
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Graham93 ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 130 Views ยท 18 Likes ยท 1 Comment
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    Before starting the planking, the location of the top edge of each plank was marked onto the edge of the bulkheads and forms. The edges of the three forms were also taped to avoid the risk of any of the planks sticking as the forms need to be removed once planking is complete.

    The planks are 2mm thick mahogany strips cut from some salvaged 25mm thick boards. They were cut over thickness and then sanded both sides using my homemade thickness sander.

    There are 24 planks required in total, 12 on each side. Each pair of planks (port and starboard) should be identical but are different from all the other 11 pairs. The plan includes full size templates for the planks so these were used to mark out the planks before cutting on the bandsaw. The ends of the planks need to have rebates planed along their edges (arrowed in photos 3 and 4) to overlap the previous plank. This gives a flush finish to the planking at the stem and transom.

    Once shaped, each plank is glued into position along it's length and clamped until the glue has set. It is difficult to shape and fit more than one plank a day as the glue needs to set before the clamps can be removed for use with the next plank.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planking
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡ช RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 129 Views ยท 8 Likes
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    Your usual 'Fantabuloso marquetry' work I see Graham๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
    Pink mahogany, luv it๐Ÿ˜‹๐Ÿ˜
    Found several rough sawn boards of it, about 10'x6"x1/2", in the garage of a house I bought many many moons ago. (About 50x365๐Ÿค”). Made all sorts out of them, from book shelves to frames for pin boards. Comes up to a wonderful pink shine
    She is gonna look sooo bootiful when finished in your inimitably immaculate style.
    KUTGW
    Cheers, Doug๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ“ Formwork
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Graham93 ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 131 Views ยท 12 Likes
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    The hull is built inverted on a jig. There are four bulkheads which will form part of the completed hull, together with three temporary moulds which ensure that the planks are laid to the correct form.

    The bulkhead shapes were printed and then glued to 4mm birch ply before cutting out. The same approach was used for the moulds although these were cut from 12mm construction ply.

    The bulkheads and moulds all mount onto a timber strongback which was marked for cutting out using the scaled up dimensions from the plan.

    The strongback was then screwed to a flat board and the bulkheads and moulds were fixed in position. The front pair of bulkheads are bolted together using two threaded rods which run through holes in the strongback. A similar arrangement is used to hold the rear pair of bulkheads in position.

    Finally, the keel was fitted into the notches along the centreline of the bulkheads and moulds. It was glued to the bulkheads but not the three central moulds. Everything was checked for square before the glue dried. The complete assembly has turned out to be very rigid, which is probably going to be a good thing when it comes to fitting the planks.

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