This build is around the same percentage complete as my Swordsman - the hull is further forward with the bottom and sides being painted but the superstructure is a little way behind.

For the roofs of all my models I use 3mm thick bass planks rather than having to force ply into shapes it doesn't want to go in, especially if there are compound curves. Once filled and sanded the roofs are covered in lightweight cloth and Eze-Kote to tie the planks together and form a good base for painting. Once the cloth is held by the resin I applied 4 coats to fill the weave and allow for a light sanding. Before painting I'm going to cut out and glue in position a mahogany piece for the screen to wrap around as per the full-size boat.

I shall leave the hull paint for a few more days to fully harden and then fit the prop shaft, rudder and battery so that I can try it in the bath and see how it sits.

Chris

I wanted a decent depth of mahogany but of course this comes with the problem of bending it to the curve of the roof. I thought about steaming it but it's difficult to get sheet, especially thick sheet, to bend to a uniform curve and also there is a danger with it twisting. So I resulted to the other method of multiple saw cuts. Even then it resisted bending and I didn't want to cut too far through and have it break. But contact adhesive did the trick though I had a moment when it grabbed in the wrong place - managed to move it though, just! Then added a couple of trim pieces along the back edge.

Got the same to do on the Swordsman now and it's wider so even more cuts!

As it was a bit cooler today, relatively speaking as the weather station was still showing over 30 degrees as the day wore on, I took the opportunity to go into the small bedroom/work room to put the first coat of gloss on the superstructure sides of the Swordsman. Having done that I turned to the Huntsman 31 to finish the installation off so I could try it in the bath.

Apart from the recent work on the superstructure I hadn't touched this model for years and so first job was to go through my plastic containers etc. to find the parts needed. Fortunately most parts had been bagged up and identified so it wasn't too bad and I had my photos and a list I made for reference. I thought I'd selected a rudder for it but couldn't find one, I've got an idea I used it on one of my other builds? Anyway I found one with a long enough shaft but the blade was a bit big for my liking and the stand not high enough to clear the table (easily rectified though) so I cut 12mm off the bottom and rounded off the corners. Applied some water-proof grease and then slid it into position before fitting the rudder arm and connector for the linkage ready for the threaded rod - I'll fit that tomorrow as getting too hot now!

The replacement motor had arrived a couple of days ago and so that could be fitted. I'd left the original motor in place along with the solid alignment coupling and so they were removed and the prop fitted before the new motor and flexible coupling were installed. The original motor would probably have been OK (same motor in the Huntsman 28 and that planed fine on 3S) but being 900kV it was a bit low on rpm on 3S and I thought I'd put my money where my mouth is and use a 1250kV motor. I'll use the 900kV in another build and can always go to 4S if needs be as I will need a battery of that voltage for the Swordsman.

So tomorrow I'll add a battery and try it in the bath to see how it sits. There's still some parts to add to the cockpit, windows and screen and detailing bits and pieces and a battery box, but they won't add that much. I'll finish off the installation and can then try it on the lake. After which I'll tidy up those bits of paint that you can see!

Chris

Even cooler today which was a relief. Another coat on the Swordsman and then back to this one. First job was to cut and fit the threaded rod for the servo linkage. A trial fit found it angled down towards the rudder arm so I fitted a brass collar to raise the rudder arm up. Before fitting to the servo arm I found the neutral point on the servo by piggybacking off my Huntress.

I them made a battery box out of ply and screwed it to the keel with brass screws and it's now ready for the bath! Sat nicely and is very buoyant and stable, as I've found with all the other Faireys, but as I suspected might be the case, it needs some ballast at the stern to bring the bow up a bit - the chine rail at the stern is around 5mm above the water level. I've noticed with some other folks models that they can be prone to sitting a bit bow down. Of course the model doesn't have the advantage of two whacking great engines, water and fuel tanks towards the rear! And with mine the motor is quite a way forward and I added some extra formers etc. in the bow to help form the pronounced flare, but even so I still think it would have been a bit nose down because of the bow shape.

Anyway, I'll try it on the lake as it is, once I've fitted the ESC etc. as I'm confident it will have no problem getting onto the plane - it's more what it looks like at standstill and coming off the plane.

Chris