The deck supports came in the kit and where attatched to the hull with two part epoxy.
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I used car body filler to hold the propshaft in. Once the propshaft was in I glued in the motor mount and built a shelf for the reciever and speed controler.
The motor in the picture is a 7.2V 400 size.
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I used car body filler to hold the propshaft in. Once the propshaft was in I glued in the motor mount and built a shelf for the reciever and speed controler.
The next job was to fix the deck. The deck came printed on a piece of printed vinyl. (like most things in the kit) The deck was glued on with lots!!! of epoxy then sealed around the edges with filler. I think the boat looks great up to now and Im really pleased with it.
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The next job was to fix the deck. The deck came printed on a piece of printed vinyl. (like most things in the kit) The deck was glued on with lots!!! of epoxy then sealed around the edges with filler. I think the boat looks great up to now and Im really pleased with it.
From the model shop I brought a 20 amp speed controler, 2 channel 27Mhz reciever and controler. The battery is a 1600Mah 7.2V from one of my cars. I also built a battery box.
For now the servo is linked to the rudder with a piece of silver solder because the model shop didnt have any linkages long enough.
The plastic deck supports that came in the kit were to flimsy so I made them from strips of balsa wood.
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From the model shop I brought a 20 amp speed controler, 2 channel 27Mhz reciever and controler. The battery is a 1600Mah 7.2V from one of my cars. I also built a battery box.
For now the servo is linked to the rudder with a piece of silver solder because the model shop didnt have any linkages long enough.
The plastic deck supports that came in the kit were to flimsy so I made them from strips of balsa wood.
I tested the boat on Bournville Boating lake in Birmingham.
I wasn't expecting the boat to go as fast as it did. I will upload some videos soon.
But after 15 mins the motor got upto 70 degrees celcius!!
I need water cooling.
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The next job was to attatch the spray strip and rubbing strip. These pieces came in the kit as strips of plastic, they just needed to be cut to size and superglued on.
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The next job was to attatch the spray strip and rubbing strip. These pieces came in the kit as strips of plastic, they just needed to be cut to size and superglued on.
This is my boat the RAF Seaplane Tender, it is a 1/24 scale model with a fibre glass hull. it is a deansmarine kit which cost £99.50
The first job was to drill the hole for the propshaft and epoxy in the rudder tube and support.
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The engine covers came printed on a plastic sheet, they just needed to be cut out, stuck together and painted.
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The Rear Well was the hardest part of the boat to build but I did it eventualy and it looks quite good.
The instructions on how to build this weren't the best and in the end I added a few more pieces to add detail.
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The rear well fitted tightly into the deck. it can be removed to change the battery. The cabin can also be taken off to get to the electronics.
The boat is begining to take shape. The rear well fits tightly and shouldnt leak. I also built the tiller hatch.
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